42A73 
Three for $1.00 
42A73—Three garments for $1.00. Madam, it is just such 
bargains as this that have made the National” 
famous. This bargain offer includes one Dress of 
cadet blue Plaid Percale trimmed with solid color 
percale: one Dress of medium grey Striped Outing 
Flannel trimmed with cadet blue percale: and 
one cadet blue Chambray Apron. SIZES: 2 to 6 
vears. Sold only in sets of three—one of each 
kind and all one size. Order today. 
Postpaid, Three for $1.00 
We Take All the Risk 
Don’t heiitate to order there bargains from the‘*NATIONAL,” 
became we take all the risk of your being pleased. We pay 
all transportation charges and refund your money if you 
are not satisfied 
1914. 
ftilar tunic, sizes 34 to 42 bust measure. 
82116, Raglan coat, sizes 34 to 44 bust 
measure. 8283, Boy’s blouse, sizes 4, 0 
and 8 years. 8201, Infant’s set, one size, 
dress and two petticoats. 
7501, Girl’s five-gored petticoat, sizes 
8, 10 and 12 years. 8043, Child’s one- 
piece nightgown, sizes 2, 4 and 6 years. 
7088, Work Apron, sizes 34 to 44 bust 
measure. 7577, seven-gored petticoat, 
sizes 22 to 32 waist measure. 7248, Work 
or studio apron for misses and small 
women, sizes 14, 10 and 18 years. 
From the Home Dressmaker. 
F ORTUNATE indeed is the woman 
who can buy new clothes this year, 
for there is a decided change in both 
waists, skirts and coats. Ry having 
things made in the very latest fashion one 
will be able to wear them the second sea¬ 
son and be perfectly up-to-date; and if 
necessary, the third season by a little 
judicious change in the trimming or ac¬ 
cessories. 
Waist. —First in importance is the 
corset, for if the old-fashioned corset, 
which curves in at the waistline, is used 
it will be impossible to make a dress or 
coat look up-to-date for the waist is larger 
than ever before, so that it is almost a 
straight line from the arm down to the 
hip. There are no more “Hopping” full 
waists and sleeves, but the plain, straight 
basque, opening either down the front or 
back, this latter being the latest. They 
are apparently fastened with buttons and 
buttonholes, but in a great many cases 
the buttonholes are only simulated, and 
the fastening is really made with hooks 
and eyes. In other eases the buttonholes 
are bound with a contrasting material, as 
for instance satin, when the dress is of 
serge or cashmere. Buttons are used on 
everything, and they are of all kinds and 
description. Also all kinds of beads and 
bead trimmings are used even on broad¬ 
cloth, serges, etc. 
Basques. —To return to the basques. 
These are sometimes made separate and 
other times they are fastened to the skirt. 
In the latter ease very often a narrow 
sash from four to six inches wide is used 
and just tied once with long ends hanging 
down. Plain velvet basques with skirts 
of other material, though generally of the 
same color, will bo worn, and right here 
is a chance for the economical woman 
who has an old velvet or velveteen skirt 
laid away, for there should be enough in 
one of them to make one of these basques, 
for the sleeves could be made of some 
other material like chiffon, net or satin, 
and the length of the basque helped out 
by a broad sash or girdle. The sleeves are 
generally the long, close-fitting, set-in 
variety, when of heavy material, and 
slightly fulled when of net or chiffon; 
the former being finished with some kind 
of a cuff and the latter a frill. The new 
basques are more difficult to ...ake than 
when basques were in style before, for 
the reason that the latter were tight and 
boned, so that if once buttoned they would 
stay in place but these new basques this 
year are made with only a thin lining to 
bang straight from the shoulders without. 
any bones at all, but when they are made 
separate from the skirt weights are used 
to keep them down. It is needless to say 
that they must be perfectly cut in the 
first place to insure their keeping in 
shape, for they are only semi-fitting and 
must in no case look tight anywhere, hut 
just as if you were wearing a very com¬ 
fortable dress that had been made for 
just you and not for somebody perhaps half 
a size smaller than you. To bo sure 
clothes should always look like that, and 
that is the stamp of the first-class tailor 
or dressmaker, but when things are made 
fancy or full and “floppy” as they have 
been for the last few years (I mean the 
waists in particular) you do not notice 
readily mistakes in cutting and fitting. 
The other dominant note about waists is 
that everything outside of the plain bas¬ 
que has a wide girdle, the newest ones 
being perfectly plain—that is not wrin¬ 
kled and crushed—and they start in just 
below the bust and go down well over the 
hips. 
Skirts. —The three or four-gored cir¬ 
cular skirt is the newest-and I was told 
by one of the leading New York author¬ 
ities on dress, that no skirt to be in style 
this Winter should be less than two and 
three-quarter yards around. Two of the 
well-known French houses, it is reported, 
have made their models four and five 
THE K' UKAL, 
yards around. But of course those are 
rather extreme. If the skirts are made 
perfectly plain, they usually ripple 
around the feet, hut for a stout person 
those witli side or front plaits stitched 
down to give a yolk effect and the plaits 
well pressed are much more becoming. 
Box plaits of all widths are used on 
skirts in all sorts of ways, hut when the 
skirt is plaited all around it is made 
with a plain yolk at the top. 
Coats. —The coats are very long and 
tight fitting until just below the broadest 
part of the hips when they begin to rip¬ 
ple, being very full at (he bottom. Some 
of the coats reach to within a few inches 
of the bottom of the dross skirt. 
Materials. —Broadcloth is the fav¬ 
ored material for dresses and suits this 
Fall, and velvets, velveteens, plush and 
cashmere and sorgo will also be used. 
I’laids and Roman striped materials con¬ 
tinue to be very popular, but will prob¬ 
ably not last beyond tin* Spring. Braid 
has come back into its own again and 
will be seen on all the new suits and 
wraps. The favorite is black silk braid, 
which is often used to hind the rovers, 
collar, cuffs and edges of the coats. 
MRS. B. B. 
The Scientific Buttonhole. 
IIIS is the scientific process of mak¬ 
ing a buttonhole as told by Miss 
Annabel Turner of the Wisconsin 
University : 
Buttonholes should be worked on the 
right side of double material, at least ono- 
NEW-VOR KKK 
fourth of an inch from the edge of the 
garment. The distance between them is 
regulated by the material and by the 
size and location of the buttons. The 
beauty of the buttonhole depends largely 
upon the straightness of the cut, the 
regularity of distance between the stitches 
and the evenness of the stitches in depth. 
Make buttonholes firm, with a fan at tin* 
end receiving the strain, and finish with 
a bar on the other end. A vertical but¬ 
tonhole with strain at either end should 
be finished with a bar at each end. Use 
thread to correspond with the weight of 
the material. Let the thread be long 
enough to work the entire buttonhole. 
To make a buttonhole cut a slit the re¬ 
quired length through both thicknesses of 
cloth, being careful to cut between two 
threads. Knot the thread, insert the nee¬ 
dle half an inch above the right end of 
the slit, bring it out three or four threads 
below the right end of slit; insert the 
needle three or four threads below the 
left end of the slit, bring it out three 
or four threads above; insert again 
above the right end, coming out at start¬ 
ing point, three or four threads below 
the right end of the slit. If the mate¬ 
rial frays easily the slit should be over- 
east before attempting to buttonhole. 
Begin the buttonholing by bringing the 
needle about half way out at the lower 
right end just below the long stitch. 
Throw the double thread from the eye of 
the needle to the left and under the 
point of the needle with a circular move¬ 
ment to form a loop; draw the needle 
through the loop formed and pull up the 
thread.away from you at right angles to 
the edge of the buttonhole, thus forming 
a double knot on the edge called a purl. 
Form the following stitches in the same 
way, leaving a thread of the cloth be¬ 
tween each stitch and bringing tlie needle 
out under the same thread of the cloth 
each time to make the stitches the same 
1 ib9 
length. In making a horizontal button¬ 
hole spread the stitches at the left end 
in fan shape, continue down the other 
side, and at the right end make two 
stitches the length of the width of the 
buttonhole, drawing the two sides to¬ 
gether. Wind the thread spirally around 
these long stitches until completely cov¬ 
ered. carry the thread through to the 
under side and fasten. 
Bathing Suits In Louisiana.— 
Having a large family to sew for my pet 
"saver” is the making of one-piece gar¬ 
ments. All gowns, aprons, middies, little 
boy’s suits, princess slips, etc., are made 
in one-piece patterns; they lit very nice¬ 
ly. are cool, comfortable and best of all 
pretty. It takes less goods to make them 
and is an economy of time, strength and 
money. Another successful experiment of 
mine this Summer, that I must pass along 
to the mothers who have plenty of sewing, 
is. instead of making rompers, a tiresome 
job. for the little four and six-year-old, 
buy the little navy blue, sleeveless bath¬ 
ing suits, all in one and let them wear 
in the mornings. Although miles from 
a beach, mine are dressed in their bath¬ 
ing suits every morning. They are easily 
rubbed out in a basin and are fresh and 
clean without ironing. 1 bought six at 
25 cents each, and the saving in wear and 
tear, washing and ironing, sewing and 
mending, health and happiness, has been 
tenfold. Try this, busy mothers, next 
Summer, aud I am sure the result will 
prove a delight. mrs. s. p. v. 
Patterson, La. 
Mother: “Gerald, a little bird has 
just told me that you have been a very 
naughty boy this afternoon.” Gerald: 
“Don’t you believe him. Mummy. I’ll bet 
he’s the one that steals our raspberries.” 
—Punch. 
I2A73 
13A73 
$498 1 
12A73 — Here it a money-saving opportunity for you —one of Winter’s 
newest and warmest Coats—handsome in appearance and very 
serviceable — and the “National’s" money-saving price is only 
$4.98. It is a becoming, loose-titling model of Astrakhan Cloth, 
with smart raglan sleeves, and the fashionable collar of self¬ 
material is trimmed with rich black seal plush. The graceful 
lapels and deep cults are of self-material and large black plush 
buttons trim the cuffs and effect the closing. Lined throughout 
with durable sateen. COLORS: black or navy blue, each lined 
with black sateen: also medium brown lined with self-color sat¬ 
een. SIZES: 32 to 44 bust; 48 inches long in back. Order this 
coat today and see for yourself its value. Postpaid, $4.98 
13A73 —Same at 12A73, but made 52 inches long in back. 
I'ostpaid, $4.98 
1A73 — Make this handsome Dress your dress —enjoy its smart style and 
beauty and becomingness and enjoy the cash saving it offers— 
for dresses of equal quality are priced at $8.50 elsewhere. Lus¬ 
trous Satin Messaline is the material used, and dainty cream- 
white shadow lace is used for the standing collar and vest, the 
turned-down collar and sleeve frills. Full-length sleeves and 
girdle of self-material. Invisible front closing. White lawn 
waist lining: inner belt and shields. Fashionable box-plaited 
Russian tunic and comfortably wide underskirt on lawn founda¬ 
tion. COLORS: black, navy blue, Copenhagen blue, taupe grev, 
or medium brown. SIZES: 32 to 46 bust; skirt length 39 to 41 
inches, with three-inch basted hem. In ordering, give bust, 
waist, hip measure and front skirt length. Here’s a cash saving 
of at least $2.50 for you. Order today. ...Postpaid, $5.98 
Your money back if you want it 
A Glove Bargain 
46A73 V»lue $1.50—our price, $1.00. Very warm and 
serviceable Gloves of Fleece-Lined Suede. Hnlf- 
piqU" sewn and three rows of stitching on back 
COLORS: tan, or grey. SIZES: 6to8H—in half 
sizes. Perfect-fitting and very serviceable. Order 
‘°day. Postpaid, $1.00 
1A73 
$ 5^8 
NATIONAL CLOAK &*■ SUIT CO. 
273 WEST 24th STREET, NEW YORK CITY 
