1D14. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
J266 
Ruralisms 
Landscape Gardening as a Profession. 
W ILL you advise me as to how I 
should proceed to learn the profes¬ 
sion of landscape architect? IIow 
long would it take, and what are the pos¬ 
sibilities? I have a natural taste for it. 
New York. j. j. r. 
scribed by T. AY. is very rare; yet it may 
easily occur if the persons managing the 
rose garden have no suspicion that the 
stock is thus strangling its foster off¬ 
spring. Of course the only thing to do 
is to dig out these roses, nd either re¬ 
place them with own-root stock, or util¬ 
ize this unhappy experience in the care 
of any worked plants used. 
Take the course in landscape garden¬ 
ing at Cornell University; after gradu¬ 
ating from there secure employment with 
some good firm making a specialty of 
landscape gardening, which will be neces¬ 
sary for the rounding out of your knowl¬ 
edge of the work. There is very much to 
learn in this profession. One must not 
only know how to draw plans for the im¬ 
provement of the landscape, but he must 
have a thorough knowledge of all the 
species and varieties of trees, shrubs and 
plants generally used in the adornment 
of the house grounds, public parks, ceme¬ 
teries, etc., as to their habits, height of 
growth, color of foliage, time of bloom¬ 
ing and color of floAver, that he may 
group them or use them as single speci¬ 
mens in a pleasing and harmonious man¬ 
ner. The length of time required to ac¬ 
quire this knowledge cannot be accurate¬ 
ly estimated, as so much depends upon 
circumstances in each individual case. A 
natural love and aptitude for the profes¬ 
sion will be much in favor of the aspirant, 
hard work and close application to the 
studies will also have a tendency to 
shorten the period of qualifying for the 
profession, but at best several years of 
hard study and practical work will be 
necessary before you can become a profes¬ 
sional landscape gardener. 
This is one profession that does not 
seem to be over-supplied with good prac¬ 
tical men, and is undoubtedly more prom¬ 
ising than most of the older and more 
common professions. Landscape garden¬ 
ing in America has scarcely advanced be¬ 
yond the infant period. The next lift 
years will witness vast strides along this 
line of work, and good landscape men will 
be in great demand at very attractive and 
lucrative figures for their advice and 
work. By all means go ahead and ac¬ 
quire the profession if you can possibly 
do so. K. 
Roses Choked by Stock. 
W IIAT is the matter with my roses? 
I am enclosing samples, so you 
will understand better what I 
mean. The garden was planted with 
best roses that could be bought. The 
first and second year they did finely, but 
since that time they have been steadily 
going back, that is, what I call growing 
wild. Every new shoot that came up 
is like the sample, and instead of the 
beautiful double flowers I only have sin¬ 
gle ones. This rose garden has the best 
of care in the Fall, before hard freezing, 
it is given a heavy mulch of oak leaves 
and well rotted stable manure; in the 
Spring the coarse mulch is taken off and 
the fine is forked on; they are gone over 
thoroughly and pruned of all dead wood, 
but they are still going back all the 
time. T. w. 
Tarry town, N. Y. 
The twigs sent are the brier rose, and 
the whole trouble is that the bud has 
been choked out by the stock on which 
it is budded. In planting budded roses 
they should always be set with the col¬ 
lar—the point at which the union is 
made—two inches below the surface; 
this gives the graft a chance to form, 
in time, its own root system, and also 
lessens the chance of winter-killing at 
the point of union. Even with this 
deeper planting the stock will throw up 
a good many shoots, in some cases, and 
these mus f always be cut out as soon as 
they show, or they will certainly choke 
out the less vigorous graft. The brier 
rose has seven leaflets, the stems covered 
with small looms, like those sent us, 
and this is <-usily distinguished. The 
Miinetti rose, also much used for stock, 
has few thorns, three to five leaflets, 
sometimes seven. These “wild” shoots 
usually come up on the outside of the 
plant, and it is quite easy to detect them; 
if you feel uncertain follow the shoot 
down to its point of growth,, and rub 
the bud right off. AYe have grown bud¬ 
ded roses for years without ever having 
the* < xperience complained of. but they 
have been set deep and every suspicious 
shoot removed, in the few cases where 
they have formed. Anyone who plants 
roses should notice whether they are 
on their own roots or not. Such a 
wholesale disappointment as that de¬ 
Eradicating Woodbine. 
W HAT is the best way to get rid of 
woodbine vines? They are near a 
dividing wood fence between two 
yards. I thought 1 would dig the roots 
of the vine out this Fall and again in 
the Spring. Is there anything more that 
could be done to kill them? c. H. T. 
Hartford, Conn. 
Woodbine is the popular name of 
Lonicera grata, one of our native honey¬ 
suckles. The name is also inappropriately 
applied to Bignonia radicans (Chinese 
trumpet vine) and Ampelopsis quinque- 
folia (Virginia creeper, five-leaved ivy). 
All these species of vines are very ten¬ 
acious of life and very difficult to eradi¬ 
cate, as almost every piece of root left in 
tin* ground will sooner or later send up 
sprouts and shortly become an estab¬ 
lished thrifty plant. The best method 
of eradicating them is to grub out the 
plants, digging the ground over thorough¬ 
ly. picking out and casting aside every 
piece of root brought to view, which 
work should be done this Fall. Next 
year if any sprouts appear, they should 
be chopped out promptly. If none is 
allowed to grow during the Summer, it 
is possible that the plants may be en¬ 
tirely eradicated by Fall. k. 
Selecting Lima-bean Seed. 
T HE New Jersey Experiment Station ! 
has sometimes had complaints to the ! 
effect that lima beans nave been 
growing less productive or later in sea¬ 
son year by year. If it is true that some 
growers save their seed from what is left 
of the crop after the marketing season is 
over, this state of affairs is little to be 
wondered at. Seed set late in the season 
is apt to be poor of germination and 
growth because cool weather and weaken¬ 
ed plants are not likely to produce strong 
seed. More than this, seed saved from 
the last of the crop is more apt to come 
from late than from early plants, as the 
latter have by that time yielded their best 
product. Seed for sowing should bo borne 
by the plant at the height of the season, 
or better still, all the seed of selected pro¬ 
ductive plants may be saved. 
Most growers reject discolored seed, 
and that which is under size or mis¬ 
shapen. Special care should be taken in 
this direction during the present season, 
because a disease that badly spots the , 
pods has done some damage in bean grow¬ 
ing sections. Many pods so spotted give 
seeds of a pale yellow or brownish color. 
The Experiment Station specialists in 
plant diseases say that although this spot 
may not wholly destroy the seed or may 
not be transmitted through the seed, 
beaus so diseased may give weak, early 
growth and. if the planting season be cool, 
are more apt to rot in the ground. 
The hundred and twentieth inquirer: 
"AYhat is the matter, constable?” P. C.: 
“Motor-bus ran over a cat. mum.” Hun¬ 
dred and twentieth: “Oh, dear me! Was 
the cat in the street, constable?” P. C.: 
"No, mum, the. motor-bus chased it up | 
the lamp-post.’—Melbourne Australas¬ 
ian. 
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112*113 South St., New York City 
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Write for Body gar d Book No. 48 
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Utica New York 
Makers, of Bodygard Under- 
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Built 
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There are many prac¬ 
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«I7 • » 
Knowing 
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