THUS KURAL X LC VV -VURKKR 
1283 
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|| The Home Acre || 
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CABBAGE AND TOMATOES. 
A DELAWARE reader writes: “I 
have been reading your garden notes, 
and would like to ask your opinion of 
certain varieties of cabbages and toma¬ 
toes. I want a good sized cabbage to 
come in right after the Early Jersey 
Wakefield. Will the Succession do this? 
IIow about the Copenhagen Market and 
the Early Flat Dutch? Also tell us 
about tomato varieties and their respec¬ 
tive earliness, such as John Baer, Mar¬ 
keter, Brimer, Crimson Cushion, Globe 
and Magnus.” 
For a cabbage of good size to follow 
immediately after the Early Wakefield 
there is none better than the Copenhagen 
Market. I have found that this variety 
is no good for Fall sowing here, as the 
plants run to seed badly. But sown in 
frames in Winter it grows and heads 
finely, and comes in about the same time 
as the Charleston Wakefield, and is 
larger. Succession is later and makes 
fine heads here in late July and August. 
The heads are the general shape of a 
drumhead. For late Summer and early 
Autumn I like the Fottler’s . Improved 
Brunswick. It -makes large h»ads on 
very short stems and I prefer it to the 
Early Flat Dutch. The heads are fuller, 
round and not quite so flat as the Flat 
Dutch, and it is the most uniformly head¬ 
ing of any Fall cabbage I have grown. 
I formerly grew the Winningstadt as 
a succession to Early Wakefield, but the 
Copenhagen Market is better. For a 
Winter cabbage I have not found any 
better than a good strain of the Late 
Flat Dutch. 
Now as to tomatoes, I have already 
given my opinion of the John Baer. It 
is a good, smooth and productive toma¬ 
to, not early this season here as was' 
claimed for it, *but the dry season may . 
have had something to do with this, 
though the Earliana ripened as usual 
and was 10 days earlier than the John 
Baer, which looks too much like Chalk’s 
Jewel to be distinct. Marketer I do 
not know and have never grown it. 
Brimmer seems to be a good selection 
from the Ponderosa, and like all extra 
large tomatoes, does not make a large 
crop of fruits. It has a good deal of 
hard core. Crimson Cushion is a red 
Ponaerosa, and one of the best very large 
tomatoes. Globe in my experience is the 
best of all the pink tomatoes. It is a 
very productive variety, fruit of fair 
size and solid, with very little hard core. 
Magnus is also a good tomato, and has 
the advantage of heavy foliage to pro¬ 
tect the fruit from sunscald. It is not 
early, but : s good and smooth. Maule’s 
Success is one of the best main crop 
tomatoes, bright red, smooth, solid and 
produces fruit of good size and quality. 
Our growers here for the canners stick 
to the Stone, and when this is from a 
good strain there are few tomatoes of the 
main crop equal to it. The Delaware 
Station reports that Greater Baltimore 
made a heavier crop fo- canning. I have 
found no extra early tomato equal to 
the Langdon strain of Earliana, and 
Bonnie Best is a close succession and 
better quality. For a good succession I 
would grow for red tomatoes Earliana, 
Bonnie Best, and Success or Stone, and 
for a pink tomato the Globe. I have al¬ 
ways had a passion for testing tomatoes 
from tne time when I paid Col. War¬ 
ing $5 for 20 seeds of the Trophy. Up 
to that time the Tilden had been the 
best smooth tomato. But it lacked meat- 
mess and solidity, and the Trophy was 
the first effort to get the old ridgy Mam¬ 
moth Chihuahua inside a smooth skin. 
I got the 20 seeds of the Trophy early in 
January and sowed them at once in my 
greenhouse, and as fast as they grew 
made cuttings and rooted them, and by 
Spring I had 150 plants and sold 18 of 
them for 50 cents each, and set out 
plants that made me $50 worth of seed, 
so that the $5 was well invested. This 
expensive propagation often pays very 
well with new things. Many years ago, 
when the Herstine raspberry was in¬ 
troduced, a neighbor bought in the Fall 
two large field-grown plants for which 
he had paid $5. I told him that I would 
propagate them for one-half and he left 
them with me. I cut the long roots in to 
small pieces and sowed them in a flat 
in the greenhouse, and as fast as they 
sprouted potted them into three-inch 
pots. In the Spring my friend was 
astonished when I gave him 127 plants 
in pots with tops over a foot tall This 
would hardly pay with plants at ordin¬ 
ary prices, but with new and high-priced 
plants it pays to do some intensive pro¬ 
pagation. w. F. MASSEY. 
Maryland. 
Crab Grass in Lawn. 
HAT can I do to overcome crab 
grass in lawn? Last Spring I sowed 
grass seed, but the crab grass 
smothered my lawn seed out. I keep it 
cut down, so it will not go to seed. Would 
it be advisable to sow Timothy and 
clover this Fall, and work some lawn 
grass seed in it, and then next Fall sow 
more lawn seed? G. F. n. 
Maple Shade, N. J. 
It is no uncommon thing for new-made 
lawns to be smothered by a heavy growth 
of crab grass, and in such cases the en¬ 
tire lawn will have to be seeded over 
again to lawn grass. I have had several 
experiences of this kind, but instead of 
plowing or spading the ground again, as 
is most usually advised by grass experts, 
I pursued just the opposite course with 
good success. Crab grass is an annual, 
and dies down shortly after seed ripening 
time, which is during the month of Octo¬ 
ber, but .on account of its large root sys¬ 
tem it cannot be pulled out except with 
much difficulty in the Fall, but if left 
until Spring the old stems and roots can 
be raked off with a steel garden rake 
quite easily. This should be done early 
in April. After the lawn has been cleared 
of this rubbish, and the surface becomes 
dry enough to crumble, sow the grass seed 
broadcast and in the same quantity as 
for a newly-made lawn, and use a sharp 
spike-tooth harrow with the teeth point¬ 
ing to the rear at an angle of about 45 
degrees. Go over the lawn both ways 
with this, at least twice each way, then 
roll with a hand or a light one-horse rol¬ 
ler, then wait for results, which I would 
be almost willing to guarantee will prove 
entirely satisfactory. Do not sow any 
Timothy nor Red clover on the lawn; 
neither of these is suitable for lawn pur¬ 
poses. You will probably have more or 
less crab grass in your lawn in the years 
to come and will also have to re-seed 
spots here and there almost every year, 
but do not let that worry nor discourage 
you, for it is a common occurrence every¬ 
where that crab grass is abundant, and 
everybody is troubled in the rame way in 
sections of the country where it grows at 
all plentifully. K. 
Little Paulina came in,, bringing a 
scratched finger for salve and sympathy. 
“I cut it on the cat,” she explained.— 
Judge. 
Storing Vegetables for Winter. 
N OW is the time to consider storing 
vegetables for Winter use. Onions 
and squash should be placed where 
there is sufficient heat and dryness to pre¬ 
vent any possible decay; a heated room 
or warm attic will do. Parsnips, carrots, 
beets, salsify and turnips are best buried 
in soil. A good sandy loam is excellent. 
Place a layer of soil in the bottom of a 
barrel or box, then a layer of the roots, 
a layer of soil, a layer of roots and so on. 
Another good way where there are more 
roots to be stored is to pile the vegetables 
in conical form, place straw over them, 
cover with dirt, and as the weather be¬ 
comes colder, add either dirt or manure. 
Cabbages may be stored in a hotbed 
pit, if protection from over supply of wa¬ 
ter is afforded by covering the tops of the 
beds with boards and tarred paper. Pro¬ 
tection should also be given against exces¬ 
sive cold by applying refuse over the 
tarred paper. Cabbages may be stored 
by spreading straw on the ground, re¬ 
moving cabbages, roots and all, from their 
location, and placing them head down¬ 
ward in the straw. Place them four 
wide, and on these another layer three 
plants wide, and place straw and soil 
over them. This will cause them to keep 
in the very best condition, especially on 
well-drained locations. The whole aim of 
storing vegetables is to prevent sudden 
thawing and freezing, to afford sufficient 
ventilation so the product will keep well, 
and to supply moisture to prevent shrink¬ 
age," while in the case of the squashes and 
onions, heat enough is given to prevent 
excessive moisture. 
Hundreds of Thousands Have Already Proved It 
the Best Tire Ever Built 
_ _ | 
Wm Wmmk 
THE GOODYEAR TIRE & RUBBER COMPANY, AKRON, OHIO 
Toronto, Canada London, England Mexico City, Mexico 
ranches and Agencies in 103 Principal Cities DEALERS EVERYWHERE Write Us on Anything You Want in Rubb< 
(1886) 
Get Goodyears Now 
Now — for fall and winter driving — 
is the time when Goodyear tires mean 
most. 
On these tires alone come these All- 
Weather treads. They are tough and 
double-thick, resisting puncture and 
wear to the limit. 
They are flat and regular, so they run 
like a plain tread. Yet they grasp wet 
roads with hundreds of deep, sharp, 
resistless grips. 
For safety’s sake — if for nothing else 
— every wheel should now be equipped 
with these ideal anti-skids. 
Your Other 
Needs 
You also want a tire 
that can’t rim-cut. 
That means the Good¬ 
year No-Rim-Cut tire. 
GoODAbYEAR 
AKRON. OHIO 
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With All-Weather Treads or Smooth 
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Say You Want Them 
The way to get Goodyears is to say 
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They have won more users than any 
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And now—when your 
tires face the year’s 
hardest usage—is the 
time to find them out. 
For your own sake, 
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The Strong and Sturdy Trouble -Saver 
to Which You Are Bound to Come 
