1015. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
83 
The Henyard. 
Growth in Hen’s Throat. 
I HAVE had some trouble with some of 
my hens recently. Out of a flock of 
about 100 I have had three or four cases 
where the hen has a growth in the throat 
and on the tongue; they don’t eat or 
drink and out of three cases only one re¬ 
covered. I have tried pulling this ulcer¬ 
ous growth off, but it seems to grow 
again. It is a light yellowish color. 
Could you tell me what the trouble is, 
and how I can treat and prevent future 
cases? s. w. 
New York. 
There are several diseases to which 
fowls are subject, which produce such 
patches in the mouth and throat as you 
describe. Of these, perhaps thrush, fowl 
diphtheria and chicken pox are most 
common. I do not know whch one, if 
any of them, you have in your flock, but 
as the general treatment would be prac¬ 
tically the same in all an accurate diag¬ 
nosis is not material. All affected birds 
should be promptly isolated to prevent 
spread of the infection and the utensils 
used by the flock should be cleaned and 
disinfected with a 5 per cent, solution 
of carbolic acid or boiling water. Any 
old, musty, litter should be removed from 
the pens and fresh litter supplied, while 
it would be well, also, to whitewash the 
interiors. Affected fowls, if seriously 
sick, should be killed and their carcasses 
burned or buried deeply. Local treat¬ 
ment of mild cases may consist of the 
application of mild antiseptics to the 
interior of the mouth and throat; a sat¬ 
urated solution of boric acid is suitable 
for this purpose, and the more frequently 
used the better. Soft, nourishing food 
should be provided and no convalescent 
fowls should be returned to the flock 
until thoroughly rid of all symptoms of 
disease. In all serious infective diseases 
of fowls it is ordinarily better to kill 
than to attempt to cure those seriously 
affected. The risk of keeping the con¬ 
tagion on the premises is usually too 
great to justify treatment of birds not 
more than ordinarily valuable. M. B. D. 
Questions in Poultry Feeding. 
I N “The Corning Egg Book” I note 
their regular feed is: 1. 150 pounds 
cracked corn and wheat, 52 pounds 
oats. 2. 26 pounds meals, 13 pounds 
ground oats, 26 pounds bran, 150 pounds 
cut bone. 3. 35 pounds cut clover, grit, 
shell and charcoal. If I feed this quan¬ 
tity cut bone is it necessary to feed beef 
scrap also? How long will cut bone 
keep? Is it wise to have charcoal al¬ 
ways before hens and let them eat all 
they want? I have heard that S. C. W. 
Leghorns are more susceptible to colds 
when unlimited quantity is fed. I note 
that cut bone is one-third of all the feed. 
If I could buy cut bone in quantities and 
have it keep that would be all right, 
provided I did not have to feed beef 
scrap also. A. R. p. s. 
New York. 
If you are within reach of an ordi¬ 
nary feed store, I think that you will 
have no difficulty in securing all of the 
standard poultry feeds. Beef scrap and 
meat meal are either carried in stock or 
easily procured by feed dealers and most 
of them, nowadays, also handle grit, 
oyster shell and other poultry supplies. 
Cut bone is not needed where beef scrap 
is fed in sufficient quantity, but there 
are hand and power bone cutters on the 
market, which enable any poultryman 
who possesses them to cut green bone 
procured from local butchers. The length 
of time that cut bone will keep depends 
entirely upon the temperature of the 
weather; it is usually cut just previous 
to feeding, however. It is customary 
practice to keep charcoal constantly be¬ 
fore fowls; what its actual value is I 
am not prepared to say. The custom at 
least has the sanction of long usage 
and the confidence of many poultrymen. 
II. B. D. 
“ White Comb” in Fowls. 
1 IIAVE 100 S. C. White Leghorns. 
Some of them have “white comb,” 
mostly the two-year-olds. So far not 
any of those who have it have died, but 
ihey mope around, and appear to be 
blind. I have tried saturated solution 
of sulphur, also carbolated vaseline. At 
oresent there are four or five which have 
it; the first one that got it appears now 
*o be getting better, but very slowly. I 
feed wet mash and boiled vegetables once 
a day ; dry mash at all times, and scratch 
feed in dry litter once a day; fresh 
water, good care and nice, warm, dry 
quarters. What is the cause? Is it se¬ 
rious or lasting? P. J. N. 
Massachusetts. 
The white combs of your fowls are 
probably simply an indication of anaemia, 
or lack of blood, due to some internal 
■’isorder which is sapping their vitality. 
The combs of molting fowls are pale and 
this might be taken as an indication of 
disease by some one who had not had 
much experience with hens. From your 
letter I should not judge that there was 
any contagious disease in your flock or 
(hat you were likely to lose any more 
than the number which ordinarily sicken 
and die from time to time in a flock of 
that size. M. B. d. 
Henhouse Space. 
H OW many pullets would you think ad¬ 
visable to keep in an open front 
house 8x13 feet, with a yard 30x56 
feet attachpd to the south side of house? 
Should hot. ' •'vered with tar paper 
or some preparea oofing for additional 
warmth on outside or inside? The house 
has the broad side facing south. How 
large an opening should there be for a 
muslin curtain to give sufficient ventila¬ 
tion? Do you advise cementing the floor 
of poultry houses especially where rats 
are very bad? How thick should the ce¬ 
ment floor be? E. H. 
Maryland. 
From 30 to 35. If the walls are air¬ 
tight, paper is not needed for warmth; 
otherwise it may well be used as there 
should be no drafts through cracks and 
knot-holes in the walls of a poultry 
building. It will probably be necessary 
to make the muslin-covered opening oc¬ 
cupy one-third of the area of the front 
wall in order to secure sufficient ventila¬ 
tion through it Concrete makes an ideal 
floor for a poultry house when it is kept 
well covered with litter. It need not be 
more than two inches thick, but it should 
have a solid foundation beneath it. 
Apples for Hens. 
1 SHOULD like some information in re¬ 
gard to feeding apples to hens. We 
have fed them daily somewhat spar¬ 
ingly, and have come to the conclusion 
that they had some tendency to give the 
hens diarrhoea. Is that a matter that 
wall regulate itself, and if not what pre¬ 
caution should be taken? Do you ad¬ 
vise feeding them freely? s. P. 
Massachusetts. 
I have never observed any untoward 
results from feeding apples freely to hens. 
If not accustomed to them there would 
be a tendency toward diarrhoea in fowls 
fed freely upon apples, as there would be 
if they were given an excessive quantity 
of any fruit at first. I should be very 
glad to have an unlimited supply of apples 
for my fowls, and if I found them too 
laxative I should limit the quantity fed. 
Management of Hatch; Water Grass. 
W ILL too much moisture injure incu¬ 
bator hatch? Do you approve of 
wetting eggs when the chicks begin 
to pip? Would you leave all chicks in 
incubators until hatch is complete? 2. 
Will you give an inexpensive dry mash 
I could feed chicks from second day to 
six weeks; also the kind of grain feeds? 
3. Does water glass injure the color of 
shell of eggs? If so what would bring 
it back to original color? f. j. e. 
New Jersey. 
1. I do not know how one could well 
supply too much moisture to hatching 
eggs; the problem is rather to supply 
enough. Keeping the air of the incuba¬ 
tor room as moist as possible is usually 
sufficient, however. Some makes of incu¬ 
bators have moisture trays within the 
machine, and these answer the purpose 
well. I have never thought it worth while 
to wet eggs that have begun to hatch; 
it has seemed to me better to keep the 
machine closed at that time and permit 
it to retain the moisture already within 
it. Chicks should ordinarily be left in 
the incubator until all are hatched and 
it is poor practice to open the incubator 
door for any purpose until the hatch is 
completed. One is sometimes tempted to 
do this to help weak chicks out of the 
shell, but a chick that cannot make its 
own exit from its shell would better be 
left in it. 2. An excellent cracked grain 
mixture for little chicks is composed of 
one part pin-head oatmeal, two parts 
finely cracked corn, and three parts 
cracked wheat. This may be given them 
from the start until they are old enough 
to eat larger grain, such as coarsely- 
cracked corn and whole wheat. A good, 
dry mash may be made by mixing equal 
parts of cornmeal, wheat bran, wheat 
middlings, and sifted beef scrap. This, 
also, may be fed from infancy to matur¬ 
ity. Giving it moistened with skim-milk 
or water once or twice daily, in addition 
to keeping it before the chicks dry, will 
hasten development. 3. I have never 
kept eggs in water glass solution, but I 
do not understand that it changes their 
color, though it would naturally give 
them a glossy appearance that would dis¬ 
tinguish them from freshly laid eggs. 
This solution should be used in an earth¬ 
en or wooden vessel; the rust from a me¬ 
tallic container might discolor the eggs. 
M. B. D. 
Sprouted Oats-Winter Eggs 
DOUBLE your egg yield and CUT 
IN HALF your feed bill by using a 
DOUBLE QUICK 
GRAIN 
SPROUTER 
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Makes 2 to 4 bushels of the best 
egg-producing feed from 1 bu. of 
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Sprouts in 20 to 30 hours and 
forces from 1 to 2*inch growths 
daily. 
Many a dead-expense flock of 
hens changed to profit producers 
by feeding sprouted eats. 
Send for circular ok sprouted 
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THE H-O COMPANY 
Mills 
BUFFALO, N. Y. 
JOHN J. CAMPBELL 
General Sales Agent 
HARTFORD, CONN. 
148 
From 150 Eggs 
Osceola, Mo. 
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My neighbors have other incubators and I beat them all. NELLIE GARDNER 
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