1915 . 
'1' IIK RURAL MEW-YORKER 
167 
VAN DEMAN’S FRUIT NOTES. 
Water-cored Apples. 
C AN you toll me the cause of water- 
corod apples, and any method of pre¬ 
venting same? E. H. b. 
Benzonia, Mich. 
The peculiar condition of the flesh of 
apples that is called “water-core” is the 
result of the breaking down or rupture 
of the cells or granules that compose the 
body of the flesh. It accompanies over 
ripeness and especially in cases of un¬ 
usually wet weather or over irrigation in 
the Fall, about picking time. The most 
notable case that I know of was in the 
State of Washington where a carload of 
Winesap was exhibited at the National 
Apple Show at Spokane. The exhibitor 
was very anxious to get all the high color 
possible and allowed the fruit to hang on 
the trees so long that the flesh broke 
down. There was so much of this trouble 
that the water ran out very freely when 
a knife was thrust into the flesh, and no 
prize was given to the carload from this 
cause alone. Some varieties are more 
subject to water-coring than others and 
such should be picked earlier than those 
not so liable. 
Winter Pears. 
1 DESIRE information on Winter pears, 
those that can be had from January 
1 until May. Only sorts of finest 
nuality, that will compare with Bose 
and Seckel in delicious qualities. Give 
full information stating time when each 
sort may be had. M. s. P. 
Danvers, Mass. 
I do not know of any variety of pear- 
tliat is in season during the latter part of 
the Winter that is equal in quality to 
Seckel and Bose. There are really very 
few good Winter pears. Lawrence is 
one of the best in quality but it will not 
keep until Spring without the aid of cold 
storage. Nelis is another pear of good 
quality, and when grown as far north 
as pears will succeed the fruit will keep 
until early Spring. Easter is still an¬ 
other variety that is a late keeper and 
has fair quality. There are a number 
more that keep well into the early Win¬ 
ter and by cold storage may be kept quite 
late. Of these the Anjou, Glout Mor- 
ceau and Comice are good kinds. 
Pruning Clapp Pear. 
W ILL you advise me about pruning 
Clapp pear trees three or four years 
old? Should they be cut back 
much? They are set two to 2% feet 
deep in sandy soil. Some few are not 
doing so well apparently—most are doing 
well. Previous to this Fall I had used 
horse manure as fertilizer; recently I 
have heard that was bad. What would 
you suggest? Do you recommend ground 
bone? W. F. 
Aldershot, Out. 
One can very easily prune pear trees 
too much and cause a rank growth that 
will blight very easily. As the Clapp is 
one of the strong growers it is quite sub¬ 
ject to this disease and I would suggest 
only sufficient pruning to keep the trees 
in good shape. “Two to three feet deep” 
seems much -too deep to plant any pear 
tree unless it had very long roots, and in 
such a case I would cut them back some 
before planting. The collar of the tree 
should be set with the level of the sur¬ 
face soil. Horse manure is strong in 
nitrogen and should be used very lightly 
about pear trees. Cow manure is better. 
Ground bones are very good as a fertilizer 
for pear and all other trees. 
II. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Grafting Peccans. 
I HAVE quite an orchard of seedling 
pecan trees. They are not profitable, 
and I wish to top-work them with 
better varieties. Will Prof. Van Deman 
tell me. how to do the work? Trees large, 
30 years old. It would be much more 
convenient if I could do the work by 
grafting earlier in the year than by the 
process described in a State bulletin on 
this subject. J. o. L. 
Mt. Olive, N. C. 
Your pecan trees are not too large for 
top-working. The branches should all be 
cut back to mere stubs. If they are four 
or five inches in diameter they can be 
grafted in the Spring. Cut stubs for 
grafting at an angle of about 45 degrees, 
having slopes on the under side, but in 
this way the healing process will take 
place much better than if cut square 
across. This work could be deferred un¬ 
til time to do the grafting, but it is bet¬ 
ter to be ready before the time comes to 
do it. Scions for grafting should be cut 
at once, plainly labeled and stored in 
a cool place moist enough to prevent 
evaporation of the sap. When the leaves 
on pecan trees have well started and sap 
is active is the best time to do the graft¬ 
ing. The bark or slip method is best 
The point of each stub should be care¬ 
fully sawed or cut off with knife to leave 
a square shoulder, about a quarter of 
an inch. Only the bark of the stubs 
should be slit, and this should be done 
with a very sharp knife and for about 
an inch down from the end. Scions 
should be absolutely dormant and bark 
tight or they will not grow, about four 
inches in length, having very good buds. 
Soft wood should not be used for this 
purpose, but well-matured wood is very 
essential. The butt of the scion should 
be trimmed with a long, straight, smooth 
slope with very slim point. This should 
be pushed down where the slit was made 
until very little of the cut surface ap¬ 
pears above the stub. 
Every part of the cut surface of the 
stub should be thoroughly waxed. I pre¬ 
fer waxed cloth for this purpose, al¬ 
though warm wax may be applied with 
brush to cover the wound and then bind 
the wax cloth over this to hold scion 
firmly in place. Place an inverted paper 
bag over the graft, tying it with string 
a few inches below the graft. This pre¬ 
vents evaporation of the sap from the 
scion until the vital union takes place. 
In about two weeks a hole may be torn 
in the bag to admit air and observe con¬ 
dition of buds. When well started to 
grow bag may be taken off entirely. 
Stubs on which grafts fail to grow 
should not have sprouts rubbed off, but 
be allowed to grow from late Summer 
budding. All seedlings, sprouts from 
stubs on which grafts are growing should 
be rubbed off as soon as they appear. The 
very long rank growth from the grafts 
should be cut back in midsummer to 
prevent breaking by strong wind. It is 
a good plan to lash a tough stick to the 
stub and tie the growing shoots to it 
for support. ir. e. van deman. 
Spraying for Frost Damage. 
O UR first experience was in trying to 
thaw out celery that was frozen, on a 
portion of it at sunrise, using water from 
well at 52 deg. What we watered was 
no good, and what we did not water 
thawed out and suffered no apparent 
damage. Next, a green fireman froze 
a lot of seedling tomato plants. There 
was a light film of ice on the surface of 
soil in flats in greenhouse. We sprinkled 
about half of them, and this half wilted 
down and never came up, every plant dy¬ 
ing. The remainder held the thread of 
life in some manner and made us fine 
plants later. 
Upon another occasion we had an old 
house constructed cheaply of hotbed sash, 
and not properly piped, that we could not 
get above 28 deg. for an entire night, and 
part of time it was at 22 deg. This 
house was planted to carnations. The 
carnation with proper hardening, will 
stand as much frost as the cabbage. This 
is different though on account of sudden 
change. The stems were stiff, and ground 
had a light crust of ice on. At sunrise 
we sprayed part of house and let remain¬ 
der thaw out naturally. The latter 
plants began a new growth in a few days 
from lower portion of stems, but tops 
wore worthless. The sprayed plants died 
outright, entirely, and immediately. Of 
course we did not do as Prof. Massey 
did, work the hose constantly while freez¬ 
ing was talcing place. This might have 
had different results. We later learned, 
however, a much better method of pro¬ 
cedure than the one outlined by Prof. 
Massey. Having some old loosely-con¬ 
structed houses, and finding the tempera¬ 
ture going too low with a high wind 
blowing, we made small openings in roof 
and projected a nozzle out of them. The 
wind carried the water in a fine spray 
over the glass where it instantly froze, 
and in 15 minutes we raised the tempera¬ 
ture 10 deg. This is the most effective 
frost protection we have ever discovered 
in an old insufficiently heated greenhouse. 
ELMER J. WEAVER. 
“Wiiat are you so worried about?” 
“My rich uncle wants to see me about 
his will and I’m afraid if I tell him that 
I am doing well that he will leave his 
money to his poor relatives, while if I 
say that I am not doing well he’ll leave it 
to a worthier one than myself.”—Phila¬ 
delphia Ledger. 
alonev" Bros. &Wells jCo. 
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1 ) Shrubs ( 
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( ) Evergreens 
( 
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