i!> i r». 
'i' iT H, KUKAL NEW-VOKKEK 
219 
Salting the Fence Posts. I 
I HAVE noticed methods given of pre¬ 
serving fence posts. Here is something 
I have not seen in print. Some years 
ago I took a trip southwest, and visited 
an exhibition building in Houston, Texas, 
where all kinds of products of the State 
were on exhibition, minerals, fuels, oil, 
etc., in fact everything produced, as well 
as all the natural cements fo the State. 
They claim they can build a wall around 
Texas and have everything needed. I 
noticed the timber in the surrounding 
country of the Gulf Coast was very poor, 
and very little post timber. I asked 
where they got their post timber, and tin 1 
informant replied that those who had no 
oak, cedar, locusts, etc., used anything j 
they had by boring an inch hole in the 
post as far from the bottom of the post 
as the depth of the hole the post is to j 
be set into the ground, so that the bore j 
comes even with the surface. Some set 
posts two feet, others 2 l /o feet; the lat¬ 
ter is my depth. Bore almost through, 
but not quite; fill the hole quite full of 
salt. Make a plug the size of bore, drive 
in tight, then saw off even and you have 
a post that will last about as long in 
the ground as out of it. 1 came home 
and told my father and brother-in-law, 
both practical farmers. My father went 
to the wood lot and cut two saplings 
about five inches in diameter, one of lied 
oak, which usually only lasts several 
years, untreated, the other a willow. He 
treated both as related, and set them 
around the garden so that he could keep 
tab on them. The Red oak rotted above 
the ground, so that it was useless within 
four years, but was fairly well preserved 
from the surface down. The willow was 
good at six years and was reset. My 
father died and the post was lost track 
of, but he said when he reset it that it 
was good for several years yet. 
Five years ago I bought a farm and 
had lots of fencing to do. I cut large 
willow trees, split posts and treated 
every post in this manner, even the 
iimbs. They all seem solid as ever around 
the base. I believe they will outlast a 
White oak untreated, by their present 
appearance. As most of them were set 
in swampy ground inclined to freeze up, I 
have to bat them down in the Spring. 
Some timber won’t last long in or out 
of the ground, but such as will last above 
ground is well worth treatment with 
salt. Try it. A gallon of salt will treat 
a great many posts and with a good aug¬ 
er one can bore them as fast as another 
man can fill with salt and plug. I salt 
every post I set unless a very temporary 
one. Again I say, try it. t. y. 
Lime After Rye. 
I HAVE an acre and a half planted in 
rye which T wish to plow under this 
Spring. Should this field be limed 
before or after plowing? My intention 
is to seed to lmy. How long should I 
wait before seeding, and what quantity 
of seed or seeds is necessary for the lV-s 
acre? G. B. I). 
Dunellen, N. J. 
Plow the rye under first, while the 
grain is soft in the head. Then put the 
lime on the rough furrows and harrow in. 
Be sure to pack down solid after harrow¬ 
ing. Seed to grass in early September. 
You can have the field harrowed at inter¬ 
vals during the Summer, or sow buck¬ 
wheat or cow peas after the rye is 
plowed under and plow this crop in time 
for grass seeding. We should use 20 
pounds of Timothy and 15 pounds of 
Red-top. 
Wood Ashes for the Garden. 
I HAVE several 1 barrels of wood ashes, 
which I would like to use in the most 
effective way as garden fertilizer. Can 
they be mixed with nitrate of sod;i and 
phosphates to take the place of potash, 
and if so, in what proportion? 
Millis, Mass. A. J. M. 
We would not try to mix the ashes 
with chemicals. They are so fine and 
powdery that they do not mix evenly. 
We should use them alone—spread on 
the soil after spading or plowing and 
raked or harrowed in. Mix the nitrate 
and phosphate if you like for use in hill 
or drill, but broadcast the ashes. 
Double Liming. 
W ILE you advise mo about putting on 
lime? I have land that was 
planted to corn last year. I 
thought to spread 1,200 pounds lime on 
before plowing with buckwheat straw, 
then when ready to sow oats, put on 
1.200 pounds more and harrow it well 
in, and then top-dress with barnyard 
manure. Will the manure and lime work 
well together? b. f. 
If this land is quite sour this plan of 
double liming will answer. The lime 
plowed under will hasten the decay of 
the buckwheat straw. If the lime and 
manure are well harrowed in together 
there will be little loss. Mix the manure 
and lime above ground and considerable 
ammonia would be set free and escape. 
Much the same action will go on under 
ground, but the ammonia will be held 
by the soil. 
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It's easy 
to gar¬ 
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Iron Age 
mm 
WHEEL HOES 
AND DRILLS 
tools. 
mean a big variety of 
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furrow, sow in continuous rowa or drop in hills, cover the 
seed with loose soil, pack it with roller, and mark 
the next row. A boy can do it. A three min¬ 
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at $2.60 to $12.00. Straight planting; 
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dealer to show them. 
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The Rural New-Yorker. 333 West 30th St., N. Y. 
