1915. 
THE RURAb NEW-YORKER 
303 
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II # H 
:: Some Old-fashioned Food :: 
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“Nothing to Cook.” 
(i/'YH dear, a quarter to eleven and I 
must begin dinner! Henry and the 
children will soon be here and there isn’t 
a thing in the house to cook but potatoes, 
meat and gravy as usual. I get so sick of 
cooking the same thing all the time I 
don’t know what to do.” 
In this manner little Mrs. Spinney 
complained to Mrs. Spinney, her mother- 
in-law, who had run in for a morning 
chat. 
“Well now, Myra, I guess you are 
tired. Pa Spinney has gone to Eldron 
for the day, and I would just enjoy get¬ 
ting dinner for you. You just finish that 
patching while I see what I can do, I 
know you will appreciate your own cook¬ 
ing better after eating one of my meals.” 
With a laugh she went briskly into the 
kitchen only to reappear a moment later 
with a granite kettle in her hands with 
a query of “Myra, what is this?” 
“Oh! Just some broth off some fresh 
huckies I cooked yesterday. I thought I 
would skim the grease off before I gave it 
to Fido; we use so much I have to be as 
saving as I can.” 
“Why Myra Spinney, you don't mean to 
tell me that you intend to give this nice 
broth to the dog, when there are so many 
nice ways to use it, do you?” 
“Well maybe there are ways to use it, 
but I don’t know what they are, so I 
guess I’ll just bring my work out there 
and see what you do with it.” 
By this time the tea-kettle was boiling 
merrily on the oilstove and Mother Spin¬ 
ney moved it one side and added some of 
its contents to the broth in the granite 
kettle, after she had skimmed off near¬ 
ly all the grease and taken out a small 
bowlful of the jellied broth and set it 
aside. Taking the cold meat off the 
bones she cracked them and left them to 
simmer in the broth while she peeled and 
chipped up an onion and three big pota¬ 
toes. When these were ready she re¬ 
moved the bones, reduced the liquor all 
she could and still have it taste good, 
seasoned it well with salt, pepper and 
butter and added the onion and potato. 
Next she beat up an egg, added a half 
shell of cold water and stirred in flour 
sifted with one-half spoon salt, till she 
had a dough as stiff as she could roll out 
thin, sprinkled flour thickly over it rolled 
it up and sliced it as thin as possible and 
finished by shaking out the tiny rolls and 
tossing them lightly together with all the 
flour they would take up. 
“There, those noodles are ready, what 
have you for dessert?” 
“Oh my! I forgot there isn’t a thing 
baked and it is 11:30 now and no time 
to make a thing.” 
“Well we will see about that. Were 
you saving this cup of cherry sauce for 
anything? If not we will have a pud¬ 
ding.” 
“No, but it takes an hour to steam a 
pudding.” 
“Well you just get out your roaster 
and we will see about that. Put the 
false bottom in, light the other burner, 
put an inch or more of that hot water in 
it and get it to boiling good. Now grease 
those deep gem-tins and by that time I 
will have this pudding ready. Let’s see, 
there are five of us, this will make six 
small puddings, two for Henry, see.” 
She quickly dropped the batter in the 
gem-tins, plumped the tins into the roast¬ 
er, and at 20 minutes to 12 they were 
boiling hard in the tightly covered roaster. 
Giving her attention to the cold meat 
she soon had it arranged invitingly on a 
pretty platter with small pieces of sour 
pickle strewn over it. This she put at 
the other end of the table from where the 
children sat, saying as she did so, “There 
are things that are better for little ones 
than meat and pickles. If you don’t care 
I will make them some candy out of 
this candied honey. There’s about two 
cups of it and a cup of sugar with it 
will make them a lot of candy and it 
will be good for Marian’s cold too.” 
She added the noodles to the soup, put 
the sugar and honey on to cook with one 
half cup of milk leaving to cook over a 
low burner while she set the table. When 
the candy would snap when tried in cold 
v -iter slm removed it from the stove, add¬ 
ed a teaspoon of butter and a tiny pinch 
of soda, beating it till it stopped foam¬ 
ing, poured it into a greased platter and 
said: “Now I’ll just set it on the shelf 
here in the pantry where it won’t cool too 
quick and you can pull it after dinner 
and surprise the kiddies when they get 
home from school tonight. 
“Here they come and it is all ready. 
I'll put the tea on and you can fix the 
dip for the pudding. I like milk and 
cream sweetened and flavored with nut¬ 
meg and vanilla. That soup would have 
been a little better if I had had a tea¬ 
spoonful of extract of beef to put into 
but I guess it will go any way.” 
When the meal was over Mr. Spinney 
drew back with a contented sigh and 
said: “Well that meal just hit the spot, 
and the children chimed, “Oh mamma, 
those little puddings are so cute, they 
taste better than slices off a big one 
too.” 
After Henry and the children had gone 
Myra demanded the recipe for the pud¬ 
ding. 
“Well, I just sifted two level cups of 
flour, four level teaspoons of baking pow¬ 
der, one-half teaspoon of salt, one of 
cinnamon and one-quarter spoon of cloves 
together and wet it up with seven table¬ 
spoons thin sweet cream, three of milk 
and the cup of sauce. That was just 
right, but sometimes the sauce is thick¬ 
er or thinner and then you have to add 
either a little milk or flour as needed. 
It wants to be thick enough so it will drop 
off the spoon in bunches.” 
“Thank you; now if you will tell me 
what you saved that bowl of broth for 
I won’t ask another question today.” 
Mother Spinney had been cutting the 
cold meat into bits while she talked, and 
taking it and starting for the kitchen she 
said: “Come on out here and I will show 
you.” 
Putting the broth into a basin she add¬ 
ed half a bowl of hot water, seasoned it 
well, thickened it with a tablespoonful of 
gelatine, poured it into a mold and said: 
“Now when this begins to set drop these 
pieces of meat and pickle in, getting it as 
even as you can. It will be ready to 
slice by night if you set it in a cold 
place. The Germans thicken it with 
cornmeal and put the meat in chopped 
fine, mold it; slice and fry it for break¬ 
fast. Scrapple they call it and it ia 
good too. 
“Well I guess I have demonstrated 
enough for one day and as you drain 
your dishes and don't bother to wipe them 
I’ll run home and get the house warmed 
up before Pa gets home.” 
Michigan. MRS. M. KENNEDY. 
Some Pioneer Cooking. 
EDORA CORBETT asks for recipe 
for old-fashioned “pumpkin bread.” 
I remember it as early as when I was 
eight years old in Western New York, 
where I was moved from Boston, Mass., 
about 1830. It was a new country then. 
My uncles and aunts helped settle the 
region known as Holland Land Purchase, 
owned by a lot of our rich Dutch ancestors. 
We children delighted in mighty woods 
and pumpkin pie and doughnuts. Corn- 
bread was used, much varied in char¬ 
acter. The Indian loaf or rye and In¬ 
dian as some called it, raised with yeast, 
was very common and popular. It con¬ 
sisted of one-third rye and two-thirds 
cornmeal, sweetened with molasses and 
was baked in a great iron skillet, buried 
in the coals and ashes at night at the 
back of our big fireplace. It came out 
steaming hot in the morning, and sliced 
with nice butter was fine. It was heat¬ 
ed as needed for other meals. It was our 
great cold weather stand-by. It was 
baked in the brick oven by many, always 
over night when beans also were baked. 
This great staple, cornbread, was varied 
by various mixtures. Prominent among 
these was the pumpkin. They grew in 
great perfection in the new country. Be- 
for the new orchards could be raised to 
bearing age people used sweet pumpkin 
for sauce and the pie stood unrivalled. 
To vary bread with mixture of fruit was 
very common in New England, so it came 
that having no other available they gave 
us our “pumpkin bread.” 
I well remember peeling pumpkins for 
my mother to put in her pies and bread. 
She was a widow, and though a boy I 
did all kinds of girl’s work. The stewed 
pumpkin run through a colander made 
fine, was simply mixed with the Indian 
loaf for wetting, plenty of molasses and 
sometimes scraps ground fine were also 
added. Then it was let to rise so as to 
be ready at bed time. Then the big 
shovel hauled back coals, a bushel or so 
of hot ashes, and bread was baked. I 
can see it reform in its brown soft coat, 
and almost inhale the grateful odor now. 
No good cook can miss, with a little care, 
from this description. It ix a mere var¬ 
iation of “Indian bread.” The baking 
in ordinary ovens is the great difficulty, 
but it could be put over in a steamer, 
air-tight, cooked all day slowly and trans¬ 
ferred to a hot oven. 
As I write at 85 the memory of the 
old cookery strikes a regretful vein in 
many things, none more than to have lost 
the pies and raised doughnuts of boy¬ 
hood. The pumpkin is stewing as I 
write, Burpee’s Golden Sweet we use. 
My wife can make a pie never excelled, 
but she cannot get the old Yankee raised 
doughnut. Do you know anyone that 
can? The old plain dishes are supplanted 
by innumerable modern mix-up, offen¬ 
sive alike to refined tastes and whole¬ 
some appetites. Bring on a new race of 
cooks with both sense and skill who will 
recover from the past its best things and 
bring to us what art and science have 
brought in our new time. The prevail¬ 
ing cooking in most families is an abom¬ 
ination. This statement includes hotels 
also. It comes from our false education 
which with its millions of dollars spent, 
is a huge fraud as a means of training 
children for life. It is outgrown and 
should be thrown aside with the stage 
coach and the discredited things of the 
past. When a rational training can be 
given to every boy and girl on the farms 
of the land and the home, beauty of life 
will shine in all minds and multiply all 
arts, especially the cooking of human 
food. EDWARD DANIELS. 
Virginia. 
A Small Kitchen The Ideal Work¬ 
shop. —The United States Department of 
Agriculture is sending to San Francisco 
a model kitchen which will suggest to 
many housewives who attend the Exposi¬ 
tion principles in the arrangement and 
equipment of her culinary workshop. 
One idea emphasized by the exhibit is 
that the ordinary kitchen should be small 
rather than large if the room is to be 
used only for preparation of meals. It 
should be compact as possible to save 
traveling back and forth. The stove, 
table and sink should be as near together 
as is convenient, and the distances to 
supplies and the dining room or pantry 
should be short. The fewer ornaments 
the better in a housewife’s workshop, is 
the text of another lesson of this exhibit. 
Corners are rounded, surfaces are plain, 
there are as few moldings as possible to 
catch dirt which when present must be 
removed with effort. 
Souse. —I saw in a recent issue of 
The It. N.-Y. a recipe was wanted for 
making souse. I send one that was used 
in the old Colonial days: Twelve pigs’ 
feet, one cup vinegar, salt and pepper to 
taste. Other spices if desired. Boil the 
feet until tender, and the meat will fall 
from the bones; remove from the fire and 
cool a little; remove all the bones; then 
add the vinegar and seasoning, and bring 
to the boiling point. Set in a cool place 
until solid; remove all the surplus fat 
from the top and slice as desired. Will 
keep several days in a cool place if let 
alone. (We never can.) 
MRS. GARRETT. 
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