THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
403 
Notes About Grapes 
Grafting Grapevines. 
I HAVE some grapevines (Poeklington 
and Lady Washington) which I 
would like to have grafted with 
Campbell’s Early and Highland. I have 
grown vines from cuttings and layers, 
but I have never grafted any. Tell me 
when and how the grafting should he 
done. I sold the last of the Concords 
September 5, and I picked the last hunch 
of the Highland October 2S. F. S. w. 
The grape is grafted primarily to util¬ 
ize well-established vigorous roots that 
produce fruit poor in quality, or with 
other defects, such as looseness of clus¬ 
ter. small berries, lateness of maturity, 
etc. On the other hand, certain varieties 
produce fruit of the finest quality for 
dessert and wine-making, but are too 
weak iti root or too subject to cold so that, 
their culture is not dependable nor profit¬ 
able. These can be grafted on well-es¬ 
tablished roots of the poorer. It is ex¬ 
ceptional to find highest quality of fruit 
and vigor combined in the same variety. 
Again, entire vineyards can be planted to 
those varieties that are vigorous but not 
desirable otherwise, and later be grafted 
over to the desirable. Or one-year hardy, 
resistant roots may be grafted at the 
bench, grown in the nursery for a sea¬ 
son till the stock and scion have united, 
and then planted in the permanent vine¬ 
yard. The latter practice is much the 
more practical, as then only those plants 
that have made a good union need be set. 
However, excellent results have been ob¬ 
tained with the other methods when the 
work has been carefully done. 
In this instance where it is desired to 
graft over the Poeklington and Lady 
Washington vines it can best be done by 
the cleft method. This differs but little 
from the same operation with the tipple 
with some minor variations. It has been 
advocated by some that the work should 
be done in the Fall, but in my experience 
Spring has given the best results. There 
are two periods at this season when it can 
be performed. The one is some time be¬ 
fore a vigorous sap How has begun, and 
the other after this vigorous flow is 
passed. The latter period is the one pre¬ 
ferred by the writer, although many are 
very successful tit the former. The earth 
is dug away from the base of the vine, 
so that two or three inches of the part of 
the stem below ground is exposed, then 
the stem is sawed across about an inch 
above the former ground level. Then 
with an ordinary hack-saw a slot is sawed 
into this stub to a depth of about two 
inches. I have found that the wood of 
the grape can be sawn much better than 
a cleft made by the ordinary grafting 
chisel, as it splits very easily, and often 
much too far down, so that the scions 
are not grasped firmly, due to a lack of 
spring to the wood. 
The scions of the varieties to be graft¬ 
ed may be cut in the Fall, after the 
leaves have dropped or in the Spring be¬ 
fore the buds show any indication of life. 
In either case they must be kept entirely 
dormant until they are to be used. Stor¬ 
ing either in sand in the cellar or bury¬ 
ing them outside will serve to do this. 
They should carry three buds each. The 
scions are to my way of thinking better 
prepared for insertion before going into 
the field, although when but a few vines 
are to be grafted this is not so necessary. 
Beginning at the level of the lower 
laid, make a gently-sloping cut about an 
inch and a quarter long on either side of 
the scion just as the scions are cut for 
cleft grafting the apple. This gives an 
easy tapering wedge. The outside of the 
wedge sehould be cut a little thicker than 
tiie inside. After the scions are thus 
cut they should be wrapped in a 
mdlst cloth and kept from the air as much 
as possible. After the slot has been 
sawed, as suggested above, it is held open 
by a small wood wedge, or the w Ige part 
of the common grafting chisel. The 
scions are now inserted in this slot, forc¬ 
ing them down gently till the outside bud 
is about at the level of the stock. 
Also see that they are slanted out a little. 
This insures a crossing of the sapwoods 
at some point of stock and scion, and if 
they make a good smooth contact it is all 
that is necessary to make a union of the 
two. Where the diameter of the stock 
and scion are about the same this is not 
necessary. After the two scions are 
placed the wedge is carefully removed, j 
The soil is then mounded around and be¬ 
tween the scions up to the top bud, 
and firmly pressed and compacted about 
them. No wax or any wrapping of any 
kind is required. Moisture and heat are 
the principal requisites for the forma¬ 
tion of knitting tissue. The spring of the 
stock holds tin' tissues in contact and the 
moist earth supplies moisture and heat. 
When growth starts, shoots will be 
thrown from the stock, and these should 
be broken off as fast as they appear. If 
the scion wood was well matured and the 
work carefully done, shoots will start 
from the top buds. When these get long 
enough they should be staked to prevent 
the breaking out of the scions by wind ■ 
or other agencies. About midsummer the 
mound can be removed and any roots that 
have developed from the scions should be 
cut away. If there are well developed 
calluses at the junction of stock and 
scion, no further mounding is necessary, 
otherwise they should again be mounded. 
Perhaps all three buds from a scion may 
start, in this case break off the two 
weakest. Canes from two to eight feet in 
length, should result before the close of j 
the- first season, depending on the vigor 
of the stock, and the thoroughness of the 
work. If the stock shows itself to be very 
vigorous four canes may be retained for 
the fruiting wood of the following season 
instead of the two already mentioned. 
The after care is the same as for un¬ 
grafted vines, except that no shoots 
should be allowed to grow from below the 
point of union. If this point becomes 
covered with earth for any length of time 
scion roots are quite likely to develop 
there, and to get the most from the vigor 
of the stock they should be cut away at 
once. The point was made above that the 
most desirable place to make the graft 
was at or just above the ground level, and 
the need of so doing is now seen. When 
only a few vines are involved the labor of 
digging down to the union for scion roots , 
is not so important, but when a consid- j 
erable number are grafted the labor item 1 
becomes a consideration. F. K. GLADWIN. 
Vegetable Crops Between Grapevines. 
W OULD you advise me of a good 
vegetable that I could plant be¬ 
tween rows of grapevines? 
Garfield, N. .1. P. B. g. 
If the shade is not too dense, no more 
than would ordinarily be caused by corn, 
bush beans, green and wax, muskmelons, 
cucumbers, sweet pumpkins, squash, 
early spinach, lettuce, etc., may be 
grown successfully between the rows, pro¬ 
vided the ground is manured with well- 
rotted manure, spaded or plowed deep 
and put in good tillable condition with 
rake or harrow, or both. Good, clean 
cultivation will also be necessary. Other¬ 
wise the crop or crops will not be much 
of a success. K. 
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<Ihe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 West 30th Street, New York City 
Canadian Wheat 
to Feed the Worlds 
The war’s fearful devastation of European crops has 
caused an unusual demand for grain from the American 
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acre. Wonderful crops also of Oats. Barley and Flax. 
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labor to replace the many young men who have volunteered for the war. 
> y.fc s-, ys The Government this year is urging farmers to put extra acreage Into , 
\ grain. Write for literature and particulars aa to reduced railway 
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CRAWFORD 
