1915. 
473 
THE KUKA L , 
.liiiiiiuiiiiiiiiNiiiniiiiiiimiiiiliniulllllliiliiilliiiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiniiiiiiiiliiiMiiiMiMiiiiMimiiiilllliiiiiiiMimimliirnMimliiimiiiMimimMiiiiiiiiiiii' 
r HiiiiHilimiliniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiHiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiinMiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiMiiiuilimiiiiiilllliiiiiiuiiiiiiiiMtiiiiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiniifiiiiiiiitiiifiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiittiHiiiiitiHiiiiiii'. = 
Improving an Old Orchard 
11 Part II. 
:.t 11 it iii iii 11 ii i ii it lit i iiiiiii ill *i«i 11 ■ 11 iim 111 ii iiiii i ii ri i ii ni 11 lit iti t ii 11 ti t (i 11 r mm t if 111 ii< 1111 f i imi 1111111 in i ii i in i iiimiii i ii 11 m 111 ii 111111111 ii 11 iiii 1111 if i m 11it ii 11111111 n 1111 m i ii i mi ii n 1111 ii i m i m 111111 um 111 ii 111111111111 uj uuj n i il 
Inter-Cropping. —Under the circum¬ 
stances I am trying tl> get as much as 
possible from the ground available for 
other crops, and yet I am doing it as care¬ 
fully as though I owned the orchard—in 
fact I am using the same method on my 
own ground. Whenever a considerable 
number of trees are missing and new ones 
to be planted, we first plow together in 
the middles, between the tree rows, or in¬ 
tended tree rows, with furrows in the 
rows, planting the new trees right in the 
furrows, and working some ground back 
to the trees after planting. The first 
year we plant potatoes, squash, peas, 
beans, sweet corn, etc. The Winter fol¬ 
lowing we get the ground covered with 
manure as much as we can, plow back to 
the trees, with furrows in the middles. 
We calculate this to be the last plowing. 
It is easier to do and not injure the trees 
than to plow away from them. We now 
mark in squares, to correspond with the 
tree rows, so that every other mark each 
way, say six, Gy 2 , or seven feet apart, 
is planted to a tree or a tip raspberry 
plant. We also use some currants in the 
spaces farthest from the trees. In the 
intervening spaces three feet, 3*4 or 3 y 2 
feet we plant, as early as safe, strong 
Karliana or Bonny Best tomato, also 
some early cabbage, getting these crops off 
in time to layer the raspberry tips. When 
the layer plants are out in Spring, the 
disk and cultivator both ways easily gets 
tin* ground in shape so the trees are kept 
growing, and insures a good crop of rasp¬ 
berries. When the trees need the room, 
the mowing machine disposes of the rasp¬ 
berries. The raspberries are rather far 
apart for a full crop, but are easily taken 
care of, and all the finer for the extra 
room while having consideration for the 
growing trees. 
Pruning. —Where the trees lacked 
rigor, with cankered and dead branches, 
we had to cut back severely, and where 
they got “way out and up yonder,” we 
cut back anyway, but we tried to do it 
without sacrificing too much bearing wood 
at one time. The crop the first year, 
proved the course to be right. Most of 
the trees bore a fair crop, all the nicer 
because more in proportion to the ability 
of the tree, and with new growth and 
hearing wood forming in the centers and 
lower branches we are still lopping off 
the up-yonder growth. In the more thrifty 
younger trees, the trimining was mainly 
done to keep the growth down and to 
form a broad, low top, with all bearing 
wood possible exposed to the sun, in 
easy reach to spray and pick, and yet not 
sacrificing too much bearing wood at a 
time. It is a hard matter to get anyone 
with judgment to know just what and 
where to cut, and I have now arranged 
a light pole with a paint brush attached, 
with which I mark the principal cuts to 
be made. In this way I can use rather 
ordinary help, and still have the work 
done more nearly according to my ideas. 
Where new heads are to he formed from 
young growth in the middles of the trees 
f follow up and do that light cutting my- 
self. There is a lot of wood, stumps 
blown out, etc., that is now taking the 
place of coal in our furnace and for green¬ 
house heating, serving the additional pur¬ 
pose of helping out our potash supply. 
Spraying. —Fortunately we have had 
no San Jose scale, but some oyster shell, 
scurfy, etc. The first season, with a hand 
s Pray pump, we failed to get any dormant 
spray applied, and with difficulty the 
other spraying. The men would tire out 
working the pump and keeping up the 
pressure. With a power sprayer now, 
and two leads of hose, we are able to do 
th<* work rapidly and thoroughly under 
high pressure, and with less material. I 
found it no easy matter to select a suit¬ 
able sprayer for our hillsides. Most of 
them, otherwise good, have the tank 
mounted over the front bolster. When 
three-fourths full of water, on a hillside, 
I easily guessed what would be likely to 
happen. One orchardist told me that 
even on level ground he upset the outfit. 
Accordingly I selected a low-mounted 
sprayer, and as now made, embodying 
some of the improvements I suggested, 
think it is as much superior to the high- 
mounted sprayers as low-headed trees are 
superior to the “up-yonder” kind. 
Harvesting. —As fast as picked we 
haul into cool, airy buildings and cellars, 
in bushel crates, open barrels and bins, 
sorting when the weather is bad and sell¬ 
ing later in bushel crates and half-bushel 
baskets, in our local markets. For some 
of our choicest apples we got $1.50 to 
$1.75 per bushel last year, and even now 
are getting $1 per bushel for good stock, 
with no expense for barrels or crates. 
With our rather poor storage we have 
been leaving on the trees as long as pos¬ 
sible, finishing picking last year on No¬ 
vember 7. Baldwins ripen early here, 
and have to be watched closely, as they 
drop fast when left too long. However, 
with the low trees and grass mulch those 
dropping have been bruised very little. 
Ohio. o. weckessek. 
Transplanting Fruit Trees, Roses and Rhubarb 
I have quite a large lot on which my 
house is built. On a lawn plot about 
30x60, enclosed by hedge, are four pear 
and two apple trees, from two to four 
years old, possibly five years, also a 
number of rose bushes. I prefer, the 
lawn unbroken so wish to move trees and 
rose bushes. Is it worth while to wait 
till Fall, so as to use explosive in pre¬ 
paring new place for trees? Soil would 
be too wet to use it this Spring. If 
changed this Spring what is best time? 
How should roses be. transplanted am 
when? What is the proper time to set 
out rhubarb? I have some growing now 
down cellar, stalks over one foot high. 
Berth Amboy, N. J. r. l. p. 
These trees and rose bushes may be 
removed to new quarters any time now 
that the soil and weather conditions will 
permit. Ordinarily transplanting is 
mostly done the latter part of March or 
early April, but this Winter has been 
quite open and warm, with no assurance 
that it will not continue so; therefore it 
might be well to attend to the removal 
as soon as possible. Unless there is some 
very special reason for using explosives to 
loosen the soil, the work of removing the 
trees to new quarters need not be de¬ 
ferred until Fall. In preparing the holes 
for the trees, a little extra labor with pick 
and shovel, will provide very suitable 
and satisfactory quarters for the trees. 
The holes should be dug to a depth of not 
less than 2 y 2 feet, and a foot larger than 
the diameter of the roots. Keep the top 
soil and clay separate when digging the 
holes, and use only good top soil. In 
refilling the hole, before the tree is set 
in place, enough good soil should be put 
in the bottom of this hole and gently 
firmed with the feet so the tree will be 
about the same depth in the ground as be¬ 
fore removal. Use no manure around the 
roots, unless it is very old and thoroughly 
rotted ; fresh or raw manure applied to the 
roots of trees is very injurious, and often 
attended with fatal results. If it is 
thought necessary to use some fertilizer, a 
small quantity of superphosphate, wood 
ashes and finely ground bone, will be 
most suitable. A handful or so of each 
thoroughly mixed with the soil will be suf¬ 
ficient. 
The same general directions may be 
applied in the transplanting of the roses, 
the holes of course need not be so large 
and if about two shovelfuls of old well- 
rotted manure is thoroughly mixed with 
the soil it will be quite acceptable and 
beneficial to the plants. The trees and 
roses should be headed back one-fourth 
to one-third of their tops at time of re¬ 
moval. Rhubarb will greatly benefit if 
set out as early as possible. If weather 
continues mild, the work should be done 
without delay, but you will have to use 
roots that have not been forced. Those 
growing in the cellar are of no further 
value, and would better be thrown away 
when they become exhausted. K. 
E. A. B. of Delevan, New York writes, 
“We believe that from three-fourths to 
one inch is deep enough to tap maple 
trees. We prefer to tap over where trees 
have been tapped early than to deepen 
the old place. It is better for the trees 
and we believe one gets more sap. When 
boring too deep one gets to the dry dead 
wood, and the sap is near the* bark. 
Some sugar was made here from tapping 
Feb. 13, again about Feb. 20, and an¬ 
other run March 1. New sugar sells for 
14 and 15 cents a pound.” 
NEW-YOKKEK 
The Work AUTOCAR DELIVERY VEHICLES Are Doing 
“I used to keep seven horses. That was four years ago. Now I have one 
Autocar and two horses and do a much larger business. The two horses simply 
do a little hauling and other work about the place. All my outside hauling, all 
my deliveries to Philadelphia, Trenton, Camden, etc., are now done by Autocar. 
I depend on it absolutely, and in the four years I’ve had it, it has been right on 
the job all the time. In these days, when horse-feed is so high, 1 appreciate the 
car more than ever. It isn't eating up dollars when standing in the stable." 
Albert Hansel], a prominent fruit grower of Burlington County, N. J., whose 
Autocar is shown above, made the foregoing statement February 23, 1915. 
Every market gardener or fruit grower should investigate the possibilities of the 
Autocar for his business. More than 2,000 concerns, representing every line of 
business, use the Autocar. Complete information and illustrated catalog will be 
sent you if you write to Dept. R, The Autocar Company, Ardmore, Pa. 
FARMERS DRAIN YOUR LAND. 
Increase the value af your land 
by usino JACKSON S DRAIN TILE. 
Acres of Swampy 
Land reciuimed 
... m , . •yd made fertile 
with our tile. We are also manufacturers of Hollow Brick ami 
blocks. Dealers in Sewer Pipe, Flue Lining and Builders’ Supplies 
Write for our catalogue ” Benefits on Drainage and How to Drain " 
JOHN H. JACKSON mfCO.. Inc.. 106 THIRD AVENUE. AllAMT NEW YORK 
\ 
Ill Stop Those Leaks 
Before lbu Pay." 
IIIIMO I- -.1 
I T makes no difference 
what kind of a roof 
you have—tin, iron, felt, atee! 
or wood—I’ll atop those leaks 
before you pay me a cent. It's 
a liberal offer, I know—but 
I make 
R 
donkey's ROOF-FIX 
’ service to old. dilapidated 
AND KNOW WHAT IT WILL DO. 
I’ve seen it add five years and even more of “new-roof" 
roofs that leaked like sieves. I’ve seen it save many,"many"dolbrs^for^v 
customers who had just about decided to rip off the old roof. I’ve seen it add vra 
and years of life to new roofs by coating them thoroughly before or iust after rh,v 
were put on; and above all— r tney 
I KNOW THAT ROOF-FIX is a scientifically prepared black liquid coating that 
is put on with a brush, and when applied completely seals the holes and crack* Tr i 
retains its elasticity, and therefore will not blister or crack from heat or cold moisture 
dryness or acid fumes. It is easy to apply, requiring no former cxnerienee iij A, : 
last without renewing for at least five years. experience, and should 
I am so positive of this that if any portion of a roof covered with mv Roof .u 
a leak within five years after being coated according to directions—I will fumJcU* show ? 
Roof-Fix, free of charge, to repair the affected parts * * * * S l will furnish enough 
Don’t send me anv money—i h ? , attache<1 coupon and gi Ve n 
J the kind of information that will help me 
help you. If the roof is too far gone for Roof-Fix to save, I’ll tell yon so; if not 
I’U send enough Roof-Fix to coat it properly and you won’t owe me a cent ’ .< 
until thirty days after you receive the shipment—and you won’t owe ine a 
cent then if it fails to give you entire satisfaction. 
All I ask is that you use the ROOF-FIX as soon as it is received 
so that you will have full 30 DAYS to look for trouble. I’m proud ’ 
of my ROOF-FIX and I want you to learn its value at my risk ^ 
VA°‘ s? 
e®. 
THE ROOF-FIX MAN 
CLEVELAND 
The G. E. Conkey Co. 
103 Conkey Building, 
OHIO 
Please give full details when sending 
in the coupon Write on a separate 
sheet, if necessary, and attach 
Coupon thereto. 
ROOF-FIX PRICES 
5 Gallon*.$4.00 
10 . 7.60 
25 „ (H bbl. .. 1 6 25 
50 „ (1 bbl.) 30.00 
C° 
4** 
</■ 
When you write advertisers mention The R. N.-Y. and you’ll get a quick reply 
and a “square deal.” See guarantee editorial page. 
