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THK IN U RAL NEW-YORKER 
March 27. 
: Seasonable Dress for Women : 
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M OTHER Thrift must certainly have 
been around when the Spring fash¬ 
ions in hats were made, for certainly 
their never was a time before when there 
was such a variety of shapes, materials 
and there will be no excuse for any wom¬ 
an not having a becoming hat. There 
is practically every shape of hat worn 
with the exception of the very high crown 
A Few Spki.no Hats. 
wilh the wide brim. You see high, or 
perhaps I should say medium high crowns 
with narrow brims, and wide brims with 
low crowns. There are all kinds of sail¬ 
or shapes, turbans with and without 
brims, and in fact all kinds of shapes 
suited to all kinds of faces with the one 
exception noted above. 
For the woman who has to be econom¬ 
ical in her dressing undoubtedly the best 
way for her to do this Spring is to fix 
over finy old hat that she may have and 
then later on, say in June, get a new 
hat if she so desires. The ways of fixing 
over a hat, either for the small child or 
the grown woman are many this year. 
First, if you have a shape that is be¬ 
coming, and is perfectly good with the ex¬ 
ception of being faded, or if it was a 
white one, that has become yellow from 
the sun, it is a very simple matter to 
get a bottle of liquid hat dye (25 cents) 
and just brush the hat over with it (a 
brush comes with the bottle for the pur¬ 
pose) and let dry, which only takes 10 
or 15 minutes, and you have what looks 
like a perfectly new hat. This hat col¬ 
oring comes in jet black (with a gloss;, 
dull black, cardinal red, navy blue, 
brown, violet, sage green, burnt straw, 
cadet blue and natural. This latter is 
transparent and simply freshens the sur¬ 
face without changing the color of the 
hat. When mixed with the other colors 
it makes them lighter in shade. 
But supposing the only hat you have 
is a large one with high crown and broad 
brim, and you want a small hat made from 
it, to take the crown first, there are three 
ways of fixing this: Better cut or rip 
the braid (straw) from the top until 
the crown is the desired height, and then 
fill in the top of the crown with silk or 
satin, which is generally put in from the 
inside. It is fixed in this way. You cut 
a piece of tarleton a little larger than 
your opening, but of the same shape, then 
sew your silk or satin to the tarleton, cut¬ 
ting it to match, and gather around the 
edge and sew to the straw sides of the 
crown. Or the whole crown can be made 
of the silk or satin, making the top as 
above stated and covering the sides of 
the crown with the material also, either 
in folds or plain but when the latter 
method is used there is generally a corded 
effect used at the seam where the top 
is joined to the side. 
Brims can be cut to the desired width 
and then bound on the edge with materi¬ 
al matching crown ; or either the lower 
or upper part of the brim may be cov¬ 
ered with the silk or satin matching that 
used on the other part of the hat. Some¬ 
times the under part of the brim is faced 
with velvet, silk or satin to match the 
ribbon or flowers used on the hat. In 
all cases tarleton is first used to cover 
the straw. 
Now as to trimming. That is scant 
and you might say “set” this year. That 
is where flowers are used as trimining 
(this includes fruit) they are generally 
put on in wreaths, or little bunches set 
just so far apart, or else a small bunch 
of three roses, or even one large rose is 
used. 
Ribbon is being used very extensively, 
also ribbon velvet. Grosgrain ribbon in 
particular in narrow widths is used as 
a band around the crown of hats ending 
generally in a tiny bow with the two 
ends hanging down over the brim of the 
hat. Some of the liittle girls’ hats in 
different quaint shapes (mostly quite 
high crowns with narrow brims) are 
simply trimmed with a band of 214 -inch 
ribbon with a bow in the back and long 
ends or streamers hanging down to the 
A Sensible Dress. 
waist. The ribbon is usually of a con¬ 
trasting color, and if of a plain color 
there is often a rose or a tiny bunch of 
tiny flowers (the whole bunch is often 
not bigger than a silver dollar) put right 
in the front or at the side of the hat. 
All kinds of ribbons are being used; 
ombr6—which is a ribbon shading from a 
light to a dark color, striped and bro¬ 
caded ribbon, velvet ribbons, plain and 
satin striped and moires. There will 
probably be more ribbon used in the 
wider widths for bows, ribbon wings, etc. 
as the Spring advances, as flowers have 
been used so much this Winter. Ribbon 
makes a very serviceable as well as pretty 
trimming when it is properly wired so 
as to keep its perky, trim appearance, 
for never should it look floppy. Ribbon 
wire comes in black and white for three 
cents a yard, and is easily sewed on and 
easily bent.. 
A very pretty straw hat that I saw 
the other day had a small, what you 
might call elongated beehive crown, and 
narrow brim in sage green. Around the 
crown was a darker green taffeta ribbon 
ruche held in place at the middle by an 
inch wide white satin ribbon with a 
black cord on each edge, this ribbon 
ending at the back in the usual small 
bow with the ends hanging over the brim. 
Directly in the middle of the front on 
the white ribbon was placed a small 
bunch consisting of one spray each of 
gooseberries, red currants and huckle¬ 
berries in their natural colors and just a 
sprig of foliage. This was worn slightly 
tilted at one side and you don’t know 
how jaunty and pretty it looked. Wings 
of different kinds are also used quite a 
little, but are generally used alone with¬ 
out anything else. 
MRS. BELLE BEARDSLEY. 
A Sensible Dress. 
The dress in the picture is made of 
black broadcloth, with black velvet vest, 
buttons and pleating around the waist as 
a finish. (This is a very desirable finish 
for a stout person, though equally pretty 
for a slender figure.) The yolk is of 
gold lace and the sleeves ’ ack lace over 
white net. The cuffs are also of the lace 
with a cording of black velvet. There 
is a pink velvet rose worn on the left 
shoulder. 
The skirt is a four-piece circular with 
a yoke and a lapped seam down the front. 
In the front view the skirt does not look 
as if it rippled as much as in the back, 
but this was because the model was stand¬ 
ing on uneven ground for one thing; and 
another was that just as the picture was 
taken a gust of wind came and blew the 
folds towards the back. Small gilt buttons 
are used on the vest. This is a very good ! 
model to use in making over an old dress, 
as the lower part of the skirt, sleeves and 
yoke could be of one material and the 
yoke and bodice of another. In that case 
it would look pretty to have the lower 
skirt and yoke joined with a cord. 
You do not need to have a separate 
yoke pattern for a skirt of this kind, but 
simply make one for yourself by measur¬ 
ing down on your regular skirt pattern 
the number of inches you wish your yoke 
to be, allowing about two inches for seam. 
Then pin another piece of paper to your 
pattern and cut out the same as the pat¬ 
tern except at the bottom, where you 
simply run your tracer through the pencil 
marks (which show the depth of yoke 
desired) and then cut the paper through 
the tracing. You will notice that the | 
yoke is not tight to the figure at the lower 
part, but ripples the same as a skirt 
would do that was made without auy- 
yoke. This is one of the characteristics 
of this Spring’s style as against the per¬ 
fectly tight yokes worn before. 
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Variety in Styles. 
V ARIETY is surely the watchword in 
the fashion world of to-day, both as 
regards materials and as styles of gar¬ 
ments. Provided you have a skirt which 
is full at the bottom, flaring at the sides 
and almost straight front and back you 
can have your dress made in any fashion 
you choose. Most of the dresses still 
continue to open down the front, which 
is a very sensible custom, for then you 
don’t have to have anybody hook or but¬ 
ton it up for you. But there are a few 
models which have high collars that but¬ 
ton up the back, for certainly the collars 
which are high all around will fit 
much better when opened in the back 
rather than at the front. However, the 
most sensible and attractive collars, to 
my way of thinking, are the ones that 
are high in the back and open to the 
base of the neck in front. Undoubtedly 
there are a great many other women who 
think so, and during warm weather you 
will probably see more of them that way 
than any other. 
While a great many of the sleeves both 
in coats and dresses are long, the bell 
sleeve has made its appearance, or rather 
I suppose I should say emphasized its re¬ 
appearance, by being on most of the new 
models. I think it is particularly pretty 
on the coats, especially if there happens 
to be a lace frill on the sleeve of the waist 
worn under the coat. Another feature of 
this Spring’s fashions is pockets—pockets 
on almost everything and everywhere. 
They are of the patch variety with an 
envelope flap and button. Buttons also 
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union carbide 
Insurance records show this— 
the misuse and abuse of city 
gas, kerosene and gasoline 
caused over 100,000 fires in six months. 
While the misuse and 
I in gray drums | abuse of acetylene caused but four fires during the same period. 
I with blue bands ! And there areovera quarter of a million Country-Home-Acety¬ 
lene-Plants in use. A mighty fine showing for acetylene. 
A hundred feet of acetylene makes more light than a thousand feet of city gas. For this reason acetylene 
light burners have small openings — so small that not enough gas could escape from an open burner — in a 
whole day — to do any harm whatever. 
Also, acetylene gas is not poisonous to breathe — you would suffer no harm in sleeping under an open 
unlighted burner. Also, acetylene burns with no odor whatever — but acetylene from an unlighted burner 
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home use, and how it is used extensively for cookiug as well as lighting. Just address— 
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CHICAGO, ILL. 
