1915. 
THE RURAL NEW-YUKKER 
497 
Live Stock Feeding Problems 
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Dairy Ration. 
I HAVE 19 grade Ilolsteins; am feeding 
them all of good meadow hay they will 
eat up clean three times a day. They 
are watered twice daily. I am feeding 
the following grain ration. 200 pounds 
wheat feed; 100 pounds gluten; 100 
pounds distillers’ grain ; 100 pounds cot¬ 
tonseed ; eight quarts of the above mix¬ 
ture per day are given to each cow. They 
are doing very well but not as they 
should. They average about 35 pounds 
each per day. Is the ration all right or 
could it be improved? A. n. s. 
New York. 
The ration which you are now feeding 
is very good and the results are about all 
that could be expected for an average yield. 
However, there seems to be one thing 
lacking and that is succulence of some 
kind. For this purpose I prefer silage as 
it is usually the best and cheapest succu¬ 
lent feed for milch cows during the Win¬ 
ter months. When silage is not available 
some other form of succulence should be 
provided, such as dried beet pulp, if ob¬ 
tainable at a fair price, or if this is diffi¬ 
cult to secure, a little oil meal should be 
added to the ration. By adding 100 
pounds of oil meal to the mixture you 
are now feeding, making 600 pounds in¬ 
stead of 500, without increasing the 
amount fed to each cow, your stock will 
keep in better condition and the results 
will be more satisfactory. In feeding 
dried beet pulp it should be soaked for 
several hours before feeding with all the 
water it will absorb and then mixed with 
the grain just before feeding time. 
_ c. s. G. 
Feeding Young Chicks. 
eye of the master fattens his 
-L cattle,” but it takes some practice 
to acquire the master’s eye. A few arbi¬ 
trary rules are helpful to the beginner. 
Successful chick rearing is not so compli¬ 
cated a matter as one might infer from 
reading the literature of the art; much of 
this has doubtless grown from the neces¬ 
sity of overcoming inherent weakness in 
chicks produced under highly artificial 
conditions. The husky chick thrives upon 
almost anything; the weakling is the 
despair of the expert. 
Granting well-hatched chicks from stock 
whose vigor has not been seriously de¬ 
pleted by close confinement and heavy 
laying, they should be reared on simple 
foods and by simple methods. “Our 
folks” used only cornmeal stirred up in 
hot water, but that was in the days when 
farm hens were not constantly taunted 
with the records of modern laying con¬ 
tests. 
Chickens need two kinds of food, hard 
and soft. They also need grit to aid in 
grinding their food and almost as much 
water as a sawmill. To save labor and 
expense, let’s make these as simple as 
possible. For hard food, purchase one of 
the commercial chick foods, if you like, 
most of them are good, or mix your own 
and pay nothing for filler. There is prob¬ 
ably nothing better than the “one, two, 
three” mixture; one part pinhead (steel 
cut) oatmeal, two parts finely cracked 
corn, and three parts cracked wheat.. 
After four weeks, wheat need not be 
cracked, coarser corn will be eaten, and 
hulled oats will replace the steel-cut kind. 
For soft food, mix equal parts, by weight, 
of cornmeal, wheat middlings, wheat bran, 
and high-grade beef scraps with the coars¬ 
est pieces sifted out. This latter is dry 
mash, wet mash, feathering food, cackling 
food, growing food and crowing food. 
When possible, some tender green food 
should be provided, chick grit is needed, 
rolled oats are excellent and a loaf of 
bread needs no jug of wine to supple¬ 
ment it. 
Now we are ready for the chicks; put 
them into their brooders, provide them 
with water in small dishes or fountains 
into which they cannot tumble, and just 
admire them for the first day. On the 
morning of the next, crumble some of 
your stale bread and scatter it with a 
handful of rolled oats over their backs. 
Add, also, a handful of fine grit. Do this 
five times daily for the first two or three 
fiays, giving only what they will eagerly 
clean up, and stop feeding just before 
(hey stop eating. Now we are ready for 
(he permanent rations. Place some of the 
all- round mash in shallow boxes, cigar 
boxes are good, and cover it with a piece 
of mesh wire netting cut to go inside 
of the box. Keep this in the brooder; 
from the way the chicks work at it you 
will think that they must soon burst; 
but they won’t. Twice daily, scatter a 
little of the chick grain into the litter, 
giving only what they will clean up, with 
none to waste. Thrice daily, moisten a 
little of the mash with skim-milk or water 
and give the chicks just what they will 
eagerly eat of that. Feed all they want 
but never cloy them by overfeeding; if 
they begin to eat languidly, like a boy on 
his fourth piece of pie, slacken your hand. 
Five feedings a day for the first four 
weeks, four for the next, and three for 
another. At six weeks the chicks are 
ready to be hopper-fed, on range. Fill 
ene hopper with dry mash, another with 
cracked corn and wheat, if you can afford 
the latter, and let them eat at will. A 
liberal feeding of the moist mash once 
daily, in addition will hasten develop¬ 
ment, loppered skim-milk constantly be¬ 
fore them is fine, and water, always. 
Remember that chicks never over-cat of 
dry mash, but are easily over-fed on 
moist, and that the more range and exer¬ 
cise they can have, the more food they 
can eat and utilize. Simple, after all, 
isn’t it? M. B. D. 
Value of Buttermilk. 
W HAT can I afford to pay the cream¬ 
ery per gallon for buttermilk, to 
feed hogs? How much of it, or 
what part of the ration is it safe to feed 
of the milk, and what kind of grain 
should I use with it to feed shotes weigh¬ 
ing from 40 to 80 pounds? g. e. t. 
When meal is worth $20. per ton, it is 
safe to pay 20 cents per hundred pounds 
for buttermilk or skim-milk. Buttermilk 
if free from the water used to wash uten¬ 
sils about a creamery, is equal in all ways 
in feeding to skim-milk; however, to brood 
sows in pig there should not be fed over 
one pound of buttermilk for each two 
pounds of grain. For sows after farrow¬ 
ing, Henry advises feeding three or four 
pounds of buttermilk for each pound of 
cornmeal given. For young pigs, feed 
the same proportions. For fattening 
hogs, do not feed over two or three pounds 
of buttermilk for each pound of corn 
supplied. A desirable ration for pigs 
using skim-milk is as follows: Pigs 
weighing 20 to 60 pounds, three ounces 
of cornmeal to each quart of milk; 60 to 
100 pounds, six ounces of cornmeal to 
each quart of milk, and from 100 to 180 
pounds eight ounces of cornmeal to each 
quart of milk. A continuance of the table 
gives for pigs weighing from 20 to 60 
pounds, milk at disposal, plus mixture 
of one-third cornmeal, one-third wheat 
bran and one-third gluten meal to satisfy 
appetites; 60 to 100 pounds, milk at dis¬ 
posal, plus mixture of two one-half corn¬ 
meal, one-quarter wheat bran and one 
quarter gluten, to satisfy appetites. 
Portable Henhouse and Feeding Pens. 
Will you give plans for a feeding pen 
with boards or plank floor for about 15 
hogs, till they weigh from 200 to 225 
pounds, also plans for chicken pen with 
board floor for about 40 laying pullets in 
Winter? As I am a renter I want these 
pens so they can be moved. E. r. 
Ohio. 
I do not understand whether you wish 
plans for feeding floor, which is best built 
of cement, or for a portable hog house. 
If the latter, I suggest sending for Bul¬ 
letin 242 of the Agricultural Experiment 
Station at Madison, Wis. In it you will 
find plans and specifications for portable 
hog houses and much other information 
that will be of interest to you. 
A portable house 10x12 feet in size 
would afford about the minimum amount 
of room sufficient for 40 pullets. This 
may be built with a single slope, or shed, 
roof and with rear wall 4% feet in height 
and front at least 7% feet; 2xS inch 
sills running the long way of the house 
would serve as runners upon which it 
might be drawn and 2x4 inch floor joists 
to support a matched board floor should 
be framed into these. A temporary sup¬ 
port should be used to stiffen these floor 
joists when the house is in place. The 
walls are most economically built of 
matched boards, placed vertically from 
sill to plate, a single thickness being all 
that is necessary. The roof should be 
tight boarded and covered with some pre¬ 
pared roofing. The front should have a 
door 30 inches wide; this may well be in 
the centre and either side of it a double¬ 
sash house window of good size may be 
placed. Each sash should be hinged at 
the bottom to drop inward a few inches 
for ventilation, the openings at the sides 
of the sash being closed by V-shaped 
boards when they are so opened. In the 
Summer the windows should be removed 
entirely. 2x4 inch scantlings are suffi¬ 
ciently heavy for plates and 2x6 inch 
timbers for rafters; no studding is 
needed. m. b. d. 
<£U/Zcl&ruL 
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ye±,4ut<totU 
7/umegxjetter' 
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