554 
THE RUPiAL NEW-VOKKER 
Orchard and Small Fruits 
Repelling Apple-tree Borers. 
W HAT is the best thing to put around 
apple trees to keep the borers or 
apple worms from destroying the 
trunk? F. L. B. 
We know nothing better than a strong 
lime sulphur solution sprayed or painted 
on the lower part of the trunk. The 
only sure way to get rid of borers is to 
dig them out. 
Saving Girdled Trees. 
In my orchard of two-year apple trees 
the rabbits girdled and partly girdled 
about 20 trees during the Winter and I 
would like to know if there is any way 
of saving these barked trees. c. s. P. 
Ilamorton, Pa. 
If the trees are not completely girdled 
so that there is a strip of connecting 
bark they will probably recover. Smear 
grafting wax over the gnawed surface or 
mound the soil up over it and cut back 
the tops of the trees. If the tree is com¬ 
pletely girdled so that no connecting bark 
is left the way to save them is to bridge- 
graft. Take long scions and insert one 
end in the live wood below the girdled 
part and put the other end into the bark 
above. Wax this as with regular grafts. 
Three or four of these bridge grafts can 
be used in these trees. We have seen 
many cases where trees completely gir¬ 
dled have been saved in this way. As the 
tree develops those bridge grafts finally 
come together at the base of the trunk. 
Winter Apples for Northern New York. 
I wish to plant an orchard this Spring, 
of Winter fruit only. Will some of the 
readers of The R. N.-Y. please give me 
a list of Winter apples for the extreme 
Northern New York, which borders on 
the St. Lawrence River? E. E. K. 
Massena, N. Y. 
Knowing that Massena is a good mar¬ 
ket for apples, and especially for Sum¬ 
mer and Fall varieties, I would suggest 
H. E. K. that he give consideration to 
''ese as well as to Winier sorts. During 
luj, iwc y?ars t!'at x h ve been vorkiug 
in thi' county I have made a special ef- 
f'ji'i sc interview men who nave made a 
success of cpple growing, aid to visit 
thei orchards with a view to learning 
the varieties adapted to the north coun¬ 
try. The fellow in r i varieties are of good 
quality and reasonably hardy and pro¬ 
ductive, in northern St. Lawrence Coun¬ 
ty. August varieties: Yellow Transpar¬ 
ent and lied Astrachan; September and 
October varieties: Irish Peach, Duchess, 
Saint Lav. ?noe and Wealthy; early Win¬ 
ter varic es £ reuse ar.d McIntosh; 
lato Winter varieties: Stcne, Scott’s W iu- 
ter, Russet, Bottle Greening, and Tolman 
Sweet. Of the Winter varieties the two 
most productive and by far the choicest, 
are Fameuse aid McIntosh. One diffi¬ 
culty in planning to set an orchard in 
Northern New York is the fact that the 
nurserymen further south in the State do 
not grow many of the varieties we should 
plant. As far as i know there are no lo¬ 
cal nurseries. If I were planning to 
plant an orchard in St. Lawrence Coun¬ 
ty I would endeavor to find some nursery 
in Northern Vermont or in Canada (at 
a latitude about 44 o: 45 degrees) and 
try to get from there a selected list of 
varieties that are known ta do well in 
the same latitude in this courty. 
CHAS. S. PHELPS. 
Budding a Lemon Tree. 
When can I bud a lemon tree, and how 
proced? G. S. 
Waynesfield, O. 
Spring is considered the best time for 
budding the lemon, as the stocks are then 
in more active growth and the sap flowing 
freely. The operation consists of making 
a vertical incision in the bark of the stock 
about one inch long, near the surface of 
the ground, with a cross cut at the top of 
the vertical forming a letter T. The bud 
should be taken from a young but well- 
developed branch, and the eye or bud 
must be well matured and plump. It 
should be cut about the same length as 
the vertical incision in the bark. Now 
with the knife turn back the corners of 
the bark at the top of the cut and insert 
the bud. If the sap is flowing well the 
bud may be easily pushed in place with¬ 
out further loosening of the bark w r ith the 
knife, but if the bark seems to part from 
the stock with difficulty, the stock is not 
in good condition for budding, and the 
bark will have to be loosened with the 
knife the full length of the incision be¬ 
fore the bud can be placed in position. In 
cutting the bud, a half inch of bark above 
and as much below the bud should be 
taken, and the cut should be deep enough 
to include a small veneer of wood. This 
may be left in the bark and inserted with 
the bud, or it may be peeled out, and 
nothing but the bark containing the bud 
set in the stock. Some kind of tie around 
the stock and bud will be necessary to 
hold the bark of the stock in close con¬ 
tact with the bud, and to exclude the air. 
Raffia is the best material for this pur¬ 
pose, and may be purchased at any seed 
store. 
Most all the local seed dealers now keep 
it in stock. Before applying the raffia it 
should be slightly moistened, as it is then 
more pliable and easier to fasten. Cut 
the raffia into one-foot lengths. Start a 
little below the bud and wrap upwards, 
slightly overlapping each layer, being 
careful not to cover the bud. When the 
top of the bud has been reached or a 
point slightly above it, the raffia must be 
tied to hold it in place. In two or three 
weeks the bud and stock should form a 
union, and will do so if the stock was in 
proper condition, and the work properly 
done. The raffia must now be removed 
from the stock to prevent strangulation. 
As soon as the bud begins growth the 
stock should be cut down to within about 
two inches of the bud at first, and after 
the bud has made five or six inches of 
growth the remainder of the stock, should 
be cut away, with a sloping cut, from 
rear to front, the lowest point being at 
the rear and slightly above the level of 
the bud; the highest point of the cut 
should be a half inch or so above the bud 
and in front or on the bud side of the 
stock. Keep all sprouts off the stock be¬ 
low the bud. K. 
Transplanting Apple Trees. 
T have two apple trees set out in 
Spring of 1910 that I want to transplant 
on account of grading down the hill. 
IIow would you advise me to do this? I 
v ave never had any experience in this 
line. J. H. T. 
Good judgment is required in this. It 
is hard to give definite advice without 
seeing the trees. Generally speaking we 
would cut off at least half the top of 
such trees. Then dig around them so as 
to leave a large ball of earth on the roots. 
Dig this out and carry earth and all to 
the new place. Dig a hole large enough to 
contain this ball, put it down a little 
lower than it stood before, pour in sev¬ 
eral pails of water, throw on earth and 
stamp down hard. The most important 
part is cutting back the top with good 
judgment. 
Bart>e f t Pears and Blight. 
Mr. Van Foman advises on page 434 
in reply to question whether Bartlett 
pears planted in sod would thrive, I 
think I ought to give my personal exper¬ 
ience to the point. After many years 
studying the cause of blight in the Bart¬ 
lett I am l.o nearer the inner secret than 
at first; but I have learned that cultiva¬ 
tion induced an attack of blight without 
fail and that the longer a Bartlett was 
neglected and not cultivated the longer 
it would go without blight, or the attack 
if it came would be ve\v slight. I found 
also that a Bartlett (and this seems war¬ 
ranted by my experience with all other 
standard pears) was healthier from the 
mart if planted—well root-pruned—in a 
small deep hole, filled in exclusively with 
the soil that came out of it, not with the 
top soil put in first This is a mistake 
in planting any fruit tree in an undrained 
clay soil; as the top soil, being granular 
and porous will hold the water in the 
lower part of the hole like in a cup and 
rot the roots. If the hole reaches down 
into the subsc’l, then subsoil must be 
felled in first and the top soil wi’l be re¬ 
placed where it belongs, so that the 
ground is restored to its normal condition. 
Ail standard pears so planted make 
healthy trees. The least manure in the 
Ice ol' a pear—or any other fruit tree— 
is detrimental to its health, and is fatal 
to a Bartlett. To sum up a response to 
the question, the Bartlett will do well, 
set and continued in sod; without ma¬ 
nure or fertilizer of any sort. In addi¬ 
April 10, 1915. 
tion, to guard further against blight, the 
tree should not be pruned earlier than 
June any year, and when the sap starts 
well up in the Spring the body and larger 
limbs should be slit with a sharp pruning 
knife on three sides longitudinally and 
deeply, to prevent the twigs and blossoms 
from strangulation and death from a 
gangrenous condition very closely simulat¬ 
ing blight and for all practical results 
just as bad. 
Certain trees become bark-bound, like 
a hidebound horse. It may be but a 
coincidence, but such trees always hap¬ 
pen to be blighters, and the Bartlett in 
this respect is the worst of the pears. I 
do not intend this as a criticism of Mr. 
Van Deman’s advice. He is a man for 
whose experience and wisdom I have a 
very high regard. Truth has been said to 
have many facets, like the diamond, and 
each of us will catch the light reflected 
from the facet facing his way. Each is 
under obligation to give out the light he 
gets. JOHN F. KEENAN, M. D. 
SPRAY NOW~~$110 
WITH THIS OUTFIT 
At $110.00 the No. 1 EUREKA spray outfit la 
the biggest value ever offered. It will do every¬ 
thing that a $300.00 outfit will do. Not a hand 
pump changed into power, but a husky, reliable, 
pump, built for power work and driven by the 
well-known Excelsior gasoline engine. Has 100 
gallon tank and will give you 6 gallons of liquid 
a minute at a pressure of 175 pounds. Comes 
complete, ready for work with 50 ft. of hose, 4 
nozzles, etc. Two larger sizes if you want to 
pay more money. Do not buy a spray outfit 
until you have our printed matter and remem¬ 
ber that we make the well-known Excelsior en¬ 
gine, the greatest farm engine ever built. We 
prove it at our risk on your premises. Send for 
information to-day. 
R. CONSOLIDATED GAS ENGINE CO., 
No. 202 Fulton Street, New York City. 
Thoroughness In Spraying, —Much 
is said at this season about spraying, but 
like many other things, its value depends 
on attention to details. From the lack 
of this much of the spraying of fruit 
trees is worthless, therefore permit a few 
suggestions about some simple things 
that are often neglected. First, measure 
the water into the tank or barrel and 
make a mark to which you can fill up 
afterwards without measuring, and know 
exactly what you have. Put a spigot in 
the supply barrel and use as few measur¬ 
ing vessels as possible. One is less liable 
to make a mistake using one five-gallon 
bucket each time he fills up than by trust¬ 
ing some one to fill up a one-gallon meas¬ 
ure five times. A pressure gauge should 
be put on every pump, not only to en¬ 
sure the proper force, but also with that 
a jet of constant size that makes the 
spraying easier and more effective. A 
single, fine angle nozzle is best for a hand 
pump, and a pressure of over 100 pounds 
can be kept up easily. The owners or 
some very responsible person should 
weigh all ingredients, and when using 
arsenate of lead or bluestone mixtures 
the work should not stop long enough 
to let settling of some ingredient take 
place. When spraying begins, all neces¬ 
saries such as wrenches, screw driver, 
clamps, washers, wire, etc., should be put 
in a basket and carried along. When the 
work is done the hand pump should be re¬ 
moved from the barrel and put away up¬ 
side down, having been washed out first 
together with the hose, and the nozzles 
should be taken apart and cleaned. Fin¬ 
ally, it may be said that it will pay the 
proprietor to watch his spraying no mat¬ 
ter who is doing it. J. L. wood. 
Virginia. 
The United States Department of 
Agriculture calls attention to the trouble 
from damping off, which often occurs in 
growing seedlings of pine and spruce. 
A remedy for this has been found in the 
use of sulphuric acid. *From one to three 
ounces of the acid is dissolved in five 
to eight quarts of water, and this is thor¬ 
oughly sprinkled over a square foot of the 
seed patch. This remedy is now in regu¬ 
lar use in evergreen seedling nurseries, 
and is said to give very good results. 
Make your own Fertilizer at small cost wltii 
Wilson’s Phosphate Mills 
From 1 to 40 H. P. Send for catalogue. 
WILSON BROS. Sole Mfrs., Easton, Pa. 
IliTIVC CWCPRRCCUC-Hemlock,American Spruce, 
nA I lit tltnunttHo Arbor ViUet white Pine. 
Balsam Fir, 6 to 12 inches, $5.50 per 1.000; 5,000 for 
$25, f.o b. Also transplanted evergreens. Write for 
price list. The James A. Root Nurseries, Skaneateles, N. Y. 
Red Raspberry Bushes For Sale! 
100.000 Marlboro, $1 per 100, $6 per 1000. 25,000 Erie and 
Eldorado Blackberry Bushes, $1.25 per 100. No. 1 stock. 
Satisfaction guaranteed. Ford M. Empie. Seward, N.Y. 
B LACK DIAMOND, Blackberry and other varieties; Raspberry 
and Strawberry plants; Asparagus and Rhubarb roots; 
Sweet Potato seed. Catalog free. M. N. B0RG0. Vineland, N. J. 
CERTIFIED SEED POTATOES 
Lowell Green Mountain, Dibble’s Russet, Early 
Surprise, Clyde, Early Eureka. Write for special 
quantity price. FRANK LOWELL 8 SONS, Gardiner, Me. 
SWEET 
CLOVER 
SKKI). White and large biennial 
yellow. Prices and circular on 
request. E. BARTON, Box 
29, - Falmouth, Kentucky 
PURE FIELD SEEDS 
(’lover, Timothy, Alsike, Alfalfa and all kinds of 
PURE FIELD HEEDS direct from producer to con¬ 
sumer; free from noxious weeds. Ask for samples. 
A. C. HOYT & CO., Box R, Fostoria, O. 
Bethel Beauty Seed Potatoes 
Jlr. A. M. Harrigan, of Mass., says of it. ‘‘Best 1 ever 
planted, and I had eight kinds in 1914.” Also Standard 
Varieties in car lots or less. Unheard-of Low Prices. 
I. JL. WAKE, - - Gardiner, Maine 
U’cdigroccl SoodL Corn 
This High Yielding Yellow Dent Corn is the finished 
product of continuous breeding. Write for pamphlet 
ami prices. CARL B. THOMAS, R. F. D.. West Chester, Pa. 
BOOKS WORTH BUYING 
The Rose, Parsons. 1.00 
Plant Diseases, Massee. 1.60 
landscape Gardening, Maynard.... 1.50 
Clovers, Shaw. 1.00 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER, 
333 WEST 30th ST., NEW YORK. 
^ MICA 
AXLE GREASE 
J Makes the load easier for your horse—less ^ 
strain on the harness. The mica does it. 
STANDARD OIL COMPANY OF NEW YORK 
Principal Stations 
Albany A 
Boston A | 
New York 
Buffalo 
t'Mimiy 
DIBBLE S SEED FARMS ac 
The source in D DD A II n Northern Crown Alfalfa, C‘ net end 
.... . r . of all that is I TimoihySoect.aa.so^Pureorberter,^ 
bes. n Farm Seeds j at wholesale P ices direct tO yOU.^ 
I1IDDI r>C ecc n Dll PE0IGREE STOCK. Best five kinds. 
UIDDLC O etC.ll Ll ,ri i Both Flint and Dent for crop and 
the silo. A ei-age gern_i —tion above 95% PI 9C ... ki| 
and priced as low as. e 1.0 J pci uU. 
>inni rtf frrn aitP Stiff straw, white, thin hulled, heavy grain 
wIDuLL w uLlu Ufl I u thorough.y recleaned, 
as low as.... 
Best two kinds, as low 
as. 
DIBBLE’S S£lD BARLEY 
ninni r-o prm DHTATACC Pedigree Stock, from selected seen, grown 
UlDDLt O OLLU rU 1 H I UCO by bestiiKxlern.niethods,froniilelasyield- 
ing from 200-500 bushelsper acre, 29 varieties best early, [A. ... f... •" R uan 
intermediate ana late. A few standard kinds as low as JVw pci MU.tjex: 
DIBBLE’S FARM SEED CATALOG and SPECIAL PRICE LIST Free. A-kress 
Edward F. Dibble Seedj.rower, Honeoye Falls, M l., BcxB 
H EADQUARTERS FOR FARM SEEDS 
85 cents per bu. 
$1.25 per bu. 
