l'ME K.UR.AL NEW-YORKER 
659 
RURALISMS 
Pruning Crimson Rambler. 
At the side of my house, growing on a 
trellis, is a Rambler rose. Last year it 
sent up the trellis four long shoots from 
the root, and they are all right, but near 
the ground there are many shoots this 
Spring, about a foot high. Should they 
not all be cut away? e. w. d. 
Alden. N. Y. 
Spring pruning of Rambler roses is 
usually confined to cutting out dead wood 
c r inte'Jering shoots that tend to get b" 
yond the hounds of the trellis. When the 
blooming season is over the end of July 
or beginning of August, some of the old¬ 
est shoots should be cut away to encour¬ 
age new growth. We would not remove 
basal shoots in the Spring. Roses of the 
Rambler type will not endure the hard 
cutting back in early Spring that is re¬ 
quired by the Hybrid Remontants. 
Heating Grafting Wax. 
Would you advise heating grafting 
wax and painting the cleft and scions 
while hot with paint brush? 
Grafting wax may be applied melted, 
with the brush, or with the hands in 
warm weather without melting; 25 years 
ago it was more generally applied in the 
first named manner, and a very good per¬ 
sistent cover was secured. The wax used 
was made by melting together three 
pounds of resin, one pound beeswax and 
one pint of raw linseed oil. Another \ 
very good wax is made by melting four j 
pounds of resin, two pounds of beeswax 
and one pound of tallow. When thor¬ 
oughly melted and while hot the mixture 
is poured into a pail or bucket of cold 
water, and after it has sufficiently hard¬ 
ened to handle with the hands, it is 
pulled until it turns a light color. It is 
then wrapped in greased paper and put 
away in a cool place until needed. Chunks 
of this preparation can be melted as need¬ 
ed and applied with a brush. F. E. o. 
Spray for Tent Caterpillars and Aphis. 
What is the best spray to use on fruit 
trees and grapevines as a general preven¬ 
tive? I was considerably troubled last 
year with tent caterpillars and black 
aphis on the grapevines and with the 
former on the trees. I had sprayed them 
both with oil spray, and cut the branch¬ 
es oil and burned them upon the appear¬ 
ance of the caterpillars. w. t. a. 
Caldwell, N. J. 
Tent caterpillars can he controlled on 
grapevines by thorough spraying with ar¬ 
senate of lead, three pounds to 50 gallons 
of water, or better still, combined with 50 
gallons of a 4-4-50 Bordeaux mixture. It 
may be necessary to make two applica¬ 
tions of the spray in order to protect the 
new shoots and leaves. For Black aphis, 
a 40% nicotine solution, as for example 
I flack Leaf “40" will control. Use one- 
half pint of the Black Leaf to 100 gallons 
of water. In order to kill it is necessary 
that the mixture strike the insect. If the 
aphids are numerous when the spraying 
for the tent caterpillar is done the half 
[>int of the tobacco solution can be added 
to 100 gallons of the Bordeaux and ar¬ 
senate of lead. The first application for 
the caterpillar should be made shortly 
after the grape berries have set. The 
second application will be controlled 
largely by the rate the new foliage de¬ 
velops. Ordinarily it will follow the first 
two to three weeks. F. E. g. 
More About Hedge Plants. 
May I add a few words to the reply 
by “K” to a question on hedge plants on 
page 515? In a region where the ther¬ 
mometer may drop to 25 below zero Cali- 
1 ornia privet would certainly be a risky 
proposition. I have known it to be in¬ 
jured in Philadelphia within the last 10 
.'ears and we have not had it much be¬ 
low 10 below zero. In Boston it has 
l),,ei1 injured twice since 1905, I believe. 
L M est "V irginia is really as cold as 
your question states, he would better use 
i he A moor privet, the Ibota privet, or 
Hegel’s privet rather than the California 
privet. 
I was glad to see on page 527 refer¬ 
ence to the flowering crab apples. For 
'he Middle and New England States these 
tl,es stnnd at the head of our flowering 
trees ’ and yet they are but little known 
" l oppieciated. E. T. R. mentions but 
t'vo kinds. The following kinds can now 
also be secured from nursery men: Pyrus 
(or Mains) Dawsoniana; P. floribunda. 
P. floribunda var. atrosanguinea; P. flori¬ 
bunda Niedwitskiana ; I*, floribunda Park- 
mani; P. floribunda Scheideckeri. These 
are all worth growing as ornamental sub¬ 
jects. not only for their Spring flowers 
but for their varied and interesting fruit. 
The large collection at the Arnold Arbore¬ 
tum. Boston, is well worth a visit either 
in the Spring or the Fall, but unfortun¬ 
ately many of the varieties there cannot 
as yet be procured from nurserymen. 
Pennsylvania. joiin c. wister. 
Propagating Clematis of Jackmanii Type. 
Several years ago. being desirous of 
propagating the large-flowered Clematis, 
I tried cuttings, and failed. I then made 
trenches two or three inches deep in 
Spring laying the one-year-old wood there¬ 
in^ and covering them, expecting them 
to root, and buds all rotted. I then mod¬ 
ified last plan by leaving trench open till 
branches four or five inches long had 
formed, then covered old wood in trench 
and got "1 plants first time. 
To raise seedling plants, gather seed 
in Fall after first heavy frost; plant seed 
immediately—very shallowly—in moist 
location on north side of a building. They 
will lie dormant IS or 19 months and 
grow second Spring after their Fall plant- 
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This delicious, healthful fruit has been only fc_ 
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POTATOES 
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— (2369) 
