724 
i'ME RURAL REW-YORKER 
cst and industrious toil. Hand clasps 
are all right in their place, but no great 
lasting benefit coitus to the cause that is 
passed by the hand clasps and brotherly 
love doctrine, but only by good hard 
lighting. G. B. SCHERMER1IOKN. 
New York. 
The R. N.-Y. is not criticising the 
Grange. We are trying to find out what its 
policy is to be in the great battle which 
we can clearly see coining. If the Grange 
will decide that educational and social 
work is to be its contribution we shall 
not quarrel or criticize. Some good fight¬ 
ers will be needed, and we just want to 
know where they are. 
Vegetables and Fruits 
Failure of Early Melons. 
I tried last year and the year before 
to raise early melons by planting in paper 
pots in hotbed. Both crops failed. They 
would grow fine for a couple of weeks 
or more, and then wilt, and upon pulling 
them up I would find that the small roots 
were gone, only the larger roots remained, 
and they were a rusty color, lifeless and 
shrunken. I do not think the beds could 
have been too hot, for I let them cool 
down to SO deg. before planting seed. 
The pots were six inches deep. What 
might be the cause of their dying? 
Villa Nova, Ont. o. b. 
From the meagre information given in 
the foregoing letter as to the temperature 
of the bed at the time the plants were 
found in the condition described, and 
their management previous to that per¬ 
iod, it is not easy for one at a distance 
to diagnose the cause, and whatever is 
said on the question must be largely 
The First Prize Winner. Fig. 265. 
(See page 723) 
guesswork. From like experience I 
should judge the cause resulted from low 
temperature and over-watering. If the 
seed was planted early, say fore part of 
April, in a temperature of SO deg. and on 
the decline, unless the hotbed was well 
made, having at least 24 to 30 inches of 
heating material properly placed in the 
bed, it would become cooled off entirely 
by the end of a couple of weeks or so, 
when of course the temperature would 
be entirely too low at night for melons. 
Starting melons and cucumbers early in 
pots, boxes, etc., in the hotbed requires 
careful management. The temperature 
should never go below 60 deg. at night, 
and not be permitted to go much above 85 
deg. in the daytime. Careful attention 
must be given to watering and airing, 
watering only on bright sunshiny days 
and not later than 10 o’clock in the morn¬ 
ing, applying water only when the surface 
condition of the soil by its dry appear¬ 
ance indicates the need of it, giving only 
just enough to saturate the soil. Drain¬ 
age must be good, for if the soil becomes 
sodden from water retained in the pots, 
the roots of the plants will soon decay, 
and the death of the plants speedily fol¬ 
lows. A thermometer should be kept in 
the bed so that the temperature may be 
ascertained at all times and on bright 
days, as soon as the temperature rises to 
SO or 85 deg. the sash should be raised 
to admit air, and to prevent the tem¬ 
perature going too high. Always raise 
the end of the sash away from the direc¬ 
tion of the coming of the wind so as to 
avoid a cold draft of air blowing direct¬ 
ly over the plants. Many inexperienced 
persons fail in their attempts to start 
melons and cucumbers early in the hot¬ 
bed, and from various causes, but the 
cause whatever it may be is generally the 
fault of the one in charge of the work. 
To the inexperienced I always recom¬ 
mend the planting of the seed on pieces 
of sod rather than in pots, as the chances 
of success are much greater, and for the 
benefit of those who have not succeeded 
with pots, berry boxes, etc., I herewith 
give the method in detail to be pursued, 
and if carried out as directed, success is 
almost certain to follow. Do not plant 
the seed too early; the first week in May 
will be soon enough. Sods from an old 
pasture field will be the best for the pur¬ 
pose ; these should be from four to five 
inches in width, and may be cut in strips 
long enough to reach across the bed and 
should be about three inches in thickness. 
Make up a shallow hotbed of about one 
foot of manure, and cover with two inches 
of soil; plunge a thermometer into the 
manure and put the sash on. In a cou¬ 
ple of days considerable heat will he 
generated, probably going up to a hun¬ 
dred degrees, but the temperature will 
soon begin to subside and when it has 
fallen to 90 deg. lay the strips of sod on 
the bed, fitting them closely together. 
After all have been placed in position, 
with spade cut the strips into squares, 
and around the center of each square of 
sod place three or four seeds, and over 
the entire bed sift a half inch or so of 
good loam. Sprinkle thoroughly with a 
fine rose watering pot, and place on the 
sash, allowing them to remain tightly 
closed until the seed begins to cojne up, 
which will be in from three to five days. 
Air must now be given, as the rays of 
the sun, acting on the glass, will soon 
raise the temperature too high, and de¬ 
stroy the young plants. The temperature 
in the frame should not be allowed to 
go much above SO deg. before air is ad¬ 
mitted. On bright days, particularly if 
the weather is mild, the sash will have to 
be raised early, probably by eight o’clock. 
If watering is necessary, it may be done 
at this time, but on cool days watering 
should be deferred until ten o’clock or 
thereabouts. In about three weeks the 
plants will have made two or three rough 
or true leaves, when they may be planted 
in the open ground (this is for the lati¬ 
tude of New l T ork; farther north the 
work may have to be done a few days 
later). If a cloudy day can be secured 
in which to do the planting out, it will 
be a great advantage as the plants will 
then show but little effect of transplant¬ 
ing. If a cloudy day cannot be had, the 
plants should be set only in the evening, 
as the heat from the sun will cause them 
to wilt considerably if set early in the 
day, but when set in the evening the cool 
of the night will allow the plants to re¬ 
cuperate. When lifting the plants for 
removal to the field, the sods should be 
taken up as carefully as possible, so as 
not to disturb the roots any more than 
can be helped. If the soil is very dry, 
the plants should be thoroughly watered 
when set out. 
I have started plants in this manner 
in competition with those started in pots, 
berry boxes, etc., with the advantage 
greatly in favor of those started in sod. 
There is something in the physical make¬ 
up of the sods that the young plants 
seem to prefer, and thrive in better than 
any composted soil I have ever tried in 
connection with the pot method, and be¬ 
sides the drainage is always perfect; 
there is never any danger of over water¬ 
ing or the soil becoming sodden and sour, 
as is sometimes the case with the use of 
pots, etc. K. 
Forcing Asparagus. 
I would like your advice in the forcing 
of asparagus. Would a rose house tem¬ 
perature or carnation house suit and if 
so which of the two would do? In cov¬ 
ering would leaf mold or moss be the 
best? T. ii. M. 
Glen Cove, N. T. 
Either the rose or carnation house may 
be used for Winter forcing of this vege- 
May 22, 19X5. 
table with good results. I rather prefer 
the house with the lower temperature, as 
the shoots as a rule are of a much better 
grade than those forced in a consider¬ 
ably higher temperature such as is neces¬ 
sary for the forcing of roses. When Win¬ 
ter forcing of asparagus is contemplated 
as a permanent feature, plants should be 
grown especially for the purpose, as roots 
of the highest vitality only should be used 
for forcing and it is seldom a grower 
wishes to sacrifice such roots from his 
outdoor beds. The roots should be four 
or five years old from the planting of the 
bed. They should be dug as late in the 
Fall as possible, care being taken at the 
time of digging not to break the crown 
apart, and to lift them with as much soil 
adhering as possible. Store the clumps in 
any cool place until wanted for use. 
When placing the clumps in cold stor¬ 
age they may be formed in a pile of any 
desired size and covered with any kind of 
short litter or soil to prevent them from 
drying out too much. Freezing some¬ 
what will do them no injury. 
The roots may be forced in the bunch 
or under it as seems most convenient, pre¬ 
ferably under the bench when the heating 
pipes are not too near the ground. The 
manner of bedding the roots depends upon 
what kind of “grass” one wishes to grow, 
whether blanched or green shoots. If 
blanched, and they are to be grown under 
the bench a sort of pit should be made 
about a foot in depth. This may be ac¬ 
complished by removing the soil to that 
depth or the excavation may be six 
inches deep and six-inch boards set up 
around the pit, or the bed may be made 
on the surface by forming an enclosure 
with boards 12 inches wide. In the bot¬ 
tom place two or three Inches of good soil, 
set in the clumps close together and fill 
in with fine soil to a depth of seven 
inches over the crowns. When possible a 
temperature of about 45 degrees should be 
kept for four or five days, when it may be 
raised to normal. This low temperature 
in the beginning is not absolutely neces¬ 
sary, but is considered of advantage by 
the best authorities. The roots should 
have an abundance of water at all stages 
of the forcing period. 
If green “grass” is to be grown the 
forcing bed need not be over six or eight 
inches deep. The preparation for and the 
placing of the clumps is in all respects 
the same as for the blanched shoots, but 
only about two inches of soil should he 
placed over the crowns. Cutting may 
usually commence in 15 to 20 days after 
bedding the clumps and continue from six 
to eight weeks or longer. When the roots 
are exhausted they are consigned to the 
rubbish pile. A fresh supply of roots is 
brought in every 30 days or so to keep up 
a succession and continuous supply. K. 
Spraying Experience. 
The State experiment stations give 
much of value, but their results must be 
checked up with the results of the farm¬ 
ers’ own experiment stations before they 
can have any enduring value. We find 
that a spraying operation which gives 
satisfactory results on small trees at 
Ithaca or Geneva may be of little use on 
very large trees here. We find here that 
we get the best results when we spray 
with a strong wind. When the wind is 
weak we spray small trees or let the 
machines stand, but we try to make the 
rigs work every minute when there is a 
strong, steady wind from any direction, 
but preferably from north or south. 
With such a wind we can hit the tops of 
the trees 10 feet or more above the tops 
of the spray rods, and can hit one side of 
every limb on the tree. With a good 
wind the general rule is to spray until 
every branch in sight begins to drip. 
With a good wind there is little need of 
getting the spray mixture on men or 
teams. We have tried spraying the pear 
psylla from two sides at once, but cannot 
toll yet what the result will be. It looks 
as though we must control the psylla if 
we are to continue to grow pears. 
North Rose, N. Y. A. c. w. 
WiiEN you write advertisers mention The 
R. N.-Y. and you’ll get a quick reply and a 
“square deal.” See guarantee editorial page. 
S ubscribers may write to h. k. Muiford 
Co., Philadelphia, Pa., mentioning this 
paper, and receive, without cost, a copy of 
“The Evidence” 
which contains conclusive photographic and writ¬ 
ten proof of the value of the MULFORD CULTURES 
for Alfalfa, Clovers, Cowpeas, Soy Beans, Peanuts, 
Vetches and otherlegume crops. Write today. 
Our Improved 1913 
ACRE-AN-HOUR SIFTER 
beats every hand implement for killing Potato 
Bugs, Cabbage Worms, etc. Applies Plaster, 
Lime, etc., mixed with Paris Green or Arsenate 
of Lead. Regulates to cover big or little 
plants, also to apply any quantity of any 
kind of manufactured dry insecticides. Will 
operate as fast as desired Better, easier 
and faster than any $5, $10 or $15 spray 
pump. Insist on >our dealer showing you 
this wonderful little implement. Prepaid, 
7 He, Circulars. 
ACRE-AN-HOUR SIFTER CO., Dcpt.H, Poughkeepsie, N.Y. 
FRUIT PACKAGES 
Peach, Truck and Berry Baskets, Berry 
Crates, Apple Boxes, Ladders, etc. 
Write for Catalog 
C. N. ROBINSON & BRO. 
Dept. A Baltimore, Md, 
SEASONABLE 
FARM SEEDS 
COW PEAS SOY BEANS 
The best varieties for hay and silage. 
Millets, Buckwheat, Dwarf Essex 
Rape, etc.—all the best varieties. 
Mangel Wurzels and Sugar Beets for stock 
feeding. 
Write for prices on any Farm Seeds desired, 
also ask for free Alfalfa Leaflet. 
HENRY A. DREER 
714-716 Chestnut Street, Phila., Pa. 
COW PEAS at WHOLESALE 
MILLET 8 CLOVER S:£££LKK 
r V * 7 Dpt.152.Baltiinore.Md. 
Seed Growers and Importers. Established 1870. 
FOR SALE 
Cow Peas, $2.50 bnshel; Soy Beans, $2.50 bushel: 
Crimson Clover Seed, $6 bushel; Red Clover Seed, 
$9.50 bushel; Bean Screenings, *40 ton: Oat Flakes. 
$50 ton. JosepliE. Holland, Milford, Delaware 
O ft V B CllIC Variety Jet. Ripens in Ohio. 
O U I D EM II O Fine variety for hay. $2.25 per 
bushel. Sample on request. W. B. FULTON, Sidney, Ohio 
TOMATO 
cnNo 
1—PEPPER—EGG—SWEET POTATO and CELERY 
PLANTS. Price List on application. 
CUNO BECKER, : VIN’ELANI), N. J. 
CAD CA| ST— Sweet Potato Plants, 100 
r\/r* 50c. 300. $1.00. Postpaid. 
$2.00 per 1,000. Tomato, $1.00 per 1,000. Catalogue 
Free. W. S. FORD & SON, HARTLY, DEL. 
Cabbage, Celery, Kohl Rabi, Beets, if.™ 1 ™’ 
l.OOO, $K.SO per 10,000: TOMATO, SHEET POTATO, $1.50 
per l.OOO: CAULIFLOWER, PEPPERS, EOO PLANTS, $2.50 
per 1.000. Scud for list. 1 . C. SCHMIDT, Bristol, l'a. 
VEGETABLE PLANTS 
CABBAGE. SWEET POTATO, TOMATO, PEPPER. 
CAULIFLOWER, CELERY. EGG PLANTS 
Leading, varieties. Lai-ge or small lots, by express or 
mail. Catalogue free. 
HARRY L. SQUIRES Iteinseuburg, N. Y. 
SWF FT SEKD. White and large biennial 
* yellow. Prices and circular on 
p y /~\\ r XT' r> request. E. BARTON, Box 
L/LeVJVILlS. 29 , - Falmoutli, Kentucky 
Vpffptohlp Plank - Tomato< Pepper, Celery. Cauli- 
icgoldUlc r I all IS flower. Cabbage and sweet pota¬ 
to plants. Catalog free. Michael N. Borgo, Vineland, N J. 
ForSale: 500,000 TOMATO PLANTS 
Cabbage, Pepper, Sweet Potato and Celery Plants. Send 
for price list. Special prices on large lots. ROMANCE 
SEED AND PLANT FARM, Caleb Bore* A Son, Cbesnold, Del. 
Winter Vetch for Sale 
home-grown winter vetch for sale at $7.50 per bushel. 
Sample sent if requested. T. II. KING, Trumaniburg', N. V. 
STRAWBERRY PLANTS 
Earlieat, Latest, Largest, Most Productive 
Varieties 
It ASP HER It V, RL.YCKBERRY, GOOSEBERRY, 
CURRANT. GRAPE. ASPARAGUS, HORSE- 
RADISH PLANTS, FRUIT TREES 
Catalogue free 
HARRY L. SQUIRES ltemsenbiirg, N. Y. 
BOOKS WORTH READING 
Landscape Gardening. Parsons.2.00 
Lawn Making, Barron. 1.10 
Agriculture and Chemistry. Storer. 5.00 
Fertilizers and Crops. Van Slyke.... 2.50 
Weeds of Farm and Garden. Parnmel 1.50 
Book of Wheat. Dondlinger. 2.00 
Successful Fruit Culture. Maynard.. 1.00 
Irrigation and Drainage, King.... 1.50 
Study of Corn, ShoesmitU.50 
The Soil, King. 1.50 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 W, 30th St„ New York City 
SLUG-SHOT 
USED FROM OCEAN TO OCEAN FOR 34 YEARS 
Sold by Seed Dealers of America 
Saves Currants, Potatoes, Cabbage, Melons, Flowers, Trees and 
Shrubs from Insects. Put up in popular packages at popular 
prices. Write for free pamphlet on Bugs and Blights, etc., to 
B. HAMMOND, Beacon, (Fishkill-on-Hudson) New York 
