THE RURA I> NEW-YORKER 
749 
Methods of Grafting. 
Forty years ago I used to help my 
father top-work apple trees. He out the 
limbs slanting and used one scion on the 
high side, as shown in cut. He claimed 
the sun and rain did not affect the cut 
surface so much, and it would heal over 
better and stronger. It was very seldom 
one failed to.grow, and he got better tops 
than anyone else there. a. g. k. 
Winter Haven. Fla. 
This is a new idea to me, and I am 
therefore not prepared to say positively 
if the cutting of the stub at an angle is 
of any advantage over cutting it square 
off or not, but it will readily be seen and 
understood, that one 
graft in a branch 
would be very likely 
to make a more rap¬ 
id and stronger 
growth than if this 
branch had two to 
support, and I think 
this would be true, 
no matter w hat 
shape the end of the 
stub was cut. The 
general practice is to cut the limb 
straight through, and has evidently been 
so from the beginning, as I have never 
seen in print nor in practice any other 
method advocated or use'd. If the cut¬ 
ting of the stub to a bevel angle was of 
any distinct advantage it certainly 
would have been discovered long ago by 
professional tree men. and its advantages 
been described in at least some one of 
the many articles that have been written 
on the subject of grafting. In almost 
every locality will be found men who 
have certain well-defined theories about 
how some one or more things should bo 
done, following out these theories in 
every job of the kind they are called upon 
to perform, using persuasive arguments 
to their neighbors and friends to con¬ 
vince them that their theories and prac¬ 
tices are the only proper and correct 
way to perform the work. In most cases 
these men are perfectly sincere and hon¬ 
est in their beliefs, hut in many cases 
entirely wrong, and do not know it. as 
they have never made a comparative test 
along with the old established methods. 
I remember well, the orders we used to 
receive from some of our customers for 
fruit trees, giving positive instructions 
to clip a little of the outer bark off the 
bodies of the trees on the north side, as 
they wished to have them stand in the 
orchard exactly as they stood in the 
nursery. These men had a theory that 
if the trees were turned around so that 
the side that faced the north in the nurs¬ 
ery should face any other direction in 
the orchard, they would fail to give as 
good results. These men were honest in 
their beliefs, but mistaken, and were not 
aware of it, as they had never experi¬ 
mented with trees planted any other way 
as far as they knew. We wax the end 
of the stub, and the cleft to keep out 
air and water, and if this wax is proper¬ 
ly made and properly applied, these two 
elements will be excluded long enough 
to permit the scion to form a permanent 
union with the stub, and the closing of 
the cleft by new growth. But if the wax 
and waxing are at fault, the results will 
be the same with the beveled cut stub as 
with the square cut, and I am of the 
opinion the results will be equally suc¬ 
cessful, if the wax and waxing is good. 
However the idea seems to merit some 
consideration, and if any others of the 
I*ural readers have experimented along 
the lines described in the above letter, 
the results would no doubt be interesting 
to many others. K. 
Budding Peach Trees. 
I have a 500-tree peach orchard of very 
' igorous growth, four years old. I found 
last year on fruiting quite a number 
were misfits. Will you inform me if it 
is feasible to re-bud these trees on the 
branches from desired varieties? How 
much wood to remove, and where, in 
brief, the whole procedure. s. P. F. 
Vineland, N. J. 
Four-year-old peach trees that are un¬ 
true to name can easily be budded over 
to desirable sorts. The trees should be 
cut back severely at this time, leaving 
only the stubs of the main branches 
about two to three feet in length. These 
will send out strong, new growths, and 
one or two of these to each stub should 
be allowed to grow and all others rubbed 
off soon after they start. The new shoots 
will be ready for budding the latter part 
of August. The desired variety may then 
be placed upon each tree by the common 
method of shield budding. The follow¬ 
ing Spring the budded shoots should be 
cut back to a point just above the in¬ 
serted bud, and only shoots from such in¬ 
serted buds should be allowed to grow. 
All of those which develop naturally 
from the stock itself should be rubbed 
off as they develop. The top-working of 
young peach trees that are untrue to 
name has been practiced extensively in 
some cases. Two seasons will be lost in 
cutting back the trees and securing a 
new top, yet this is a saving of time and 
expense compared to the complete re¬ 
moval of the undesirable trees and the 
replanting of others. An observation of 
the top-worked peach trees in the State 
experiment orchard at Vineland might 
make the matter even more clear. Other 
trees in the same orchard are to be bud¬ 
ded over to different varieties the pres¬ 
ent Summer. m. a. blake. 
Cultivation of Vegetables. 
1. When should we work close to vege¬ 
tables and when should we not work close 
to them ? 2. When should we work deep 
around them and when should we not 
work deep? s. a. 
Ada, O. 
A good general rule to follow in the 
cultivation of vegetables is to cultivate 
relatively deep and close while plants are 
small. As plants grow the cultivator 
should not go quite so close, and the teeth 
should be set more shallow. The deep 
cultivation at the start encourages the 
plant to root deeply. It also stirs the 
soil and through the letting in of air, it 
warms it. As plants get larger they re¬ 
quire a larger feeding surface for their 
roots, therefore the cultivator should be 
kept away from the plant and it should be 
set to run shallow. The last cultivations 
are valuable chiefly because they help to 
hold the moisture. Shallow cultivation 
will do this as well as or better than deep 
cultivation. The above refers chiefly to 
plants. Where tiny seeds have been sown 
the first cultivation should be shallow, 
and not very close until the plants are up 
and well established, after which we 
would cultivate just as for plants that 
have been transplanted from cold frames. 
TKUCKER, JR. 
Destroying Purslane. 
Can you tell me how to get rid of pars¬ 
ley in garden? I have pulled up by root, 
plowed and every other way I can think 
of and it is still there. I have been 15 
years trying to get rid of it, and there is 
as much now as when I began. j. e. 
Melrose, Mass. 
The author of the above question sure¬ 
ly cannot mean parsley, as it is a hardy 
biennial, grown in every garden, and is 
much prized for garnishing and seasoning. 
It seems to seed the second year and dies 
soon after maturing the crop. Purslane 
is a hardy annual and is a member of the 
Portulaca family. Owing to its fleshy 
and watery top growth it will live for 
days exposed to the sun and heat of Sum¬ 
mer, and if it has the smallest amount of 
encouraging moisture it will re-establish 
itself and soon be as thrifty as before 
being dug up. I know of no weed that is 
more difficult to kill out, and the only pos¬ 
sible way it can be accomplished is never 
to allow a single plant to go to seed. The 
seeds are very small and are borne in cap¬ 
sules at the terminal of the main and lat¬ 
eral branches; each capsule contains 50 
to a hundred or more tiny seeds, which 
are perfectly hardy and will germinate 
after several years, so that to eradicate 
it will require several years’ time, even if 
no more are allowed to ripen and spread 
a new supply of seed. k. 
Apples for Northern New York. 
I would add to the article by Chas. S. 
Phelps, page 554, a recommendation for 
Rhode Island Greening. We consider it 
the best green apple that grows and it 
should be hardy almost anywhere in this 
State. With us it requires some thin¬ 
ning, but will give a moderate crop near¬ 
ly every year. H I were planning to 
plant an orchard in Northern New York 
or anywhere else I should go to some 
cider mill for seeds, grow my own seed¬ 
lings and then bud or graft them to the 
varieties desired. Budding is a very sim¬ 
ple operation, and one can then get trees 
of the desired variety (if the scions are 
taken from bearing trees of known value) 
and usually free from root gall (if the 
land is not infected.) ’ a. c. w. 
On page 554 E. E. Iv. asks what ap¬ 
ples to plant, Winter fruit only, and Mr. 
Phelps goes on to advise Summer and Fall 
varieties. Transparent is a great and 
early bearer, but will not stand shipment, 
and one or two trees will supply quite a 
lot of nearby customers, but they must be 
picked at just the right time and deliv¬ 
ered at once or they are a dead loss un¬ 
less they can be made into apple sauce 
and sold in that form. St. Lawrence is 
a good Fall apple. Duchess and Wealthy 
are of no account. Of the Winter va¬ 
rieties he advises, I hardly think Fameuse 
and McIntosh would fully meet that term, 
being strictly late Fall and early Winter 
sorts, good and of high quality, but soft 
shippers. Why not mention R. I. Green¬ 
ing and Baldwin, two of the best Win¬ 
ter sellers as well as heavy croppers, and 
both the best of shippers? 
Mr. Keenan’s experience with pears 
corresponds with my own. 
Vermont. c. a. chapman. 
Lime-sulphur and Cedar Rust. 
Noticing the discussion in regard to 
cedar rust I wish to state that we have a 
row of cedars planted 10 years ago, and I 
had often observed partly dead twigs 
which gave the trees a brownish cast. I 
have also seen elsewhere the cedar “ap¬ 
ples” that C. V. G. writes of, both in the 
“apple” and jelly-like forms. Our trees 
made a rapid growth and though quite 
small when transplanted are now from 
10 to 12 feet high. A few years ago we 
began spraying them with lime-sulphur 
solution same as applied to peach trees, 
since which time the trees have taken on 
a livelier green and are handsomer in 
form, the difference being quite noticeable 
to those who are given to noticing any¬ 
thing at all. While not disagreeing with 
H., Maryland, as to this course of treat¬ 
ment entirely eradicating cedar rust, I 
would hesitate to cut down the trees 
without giving them another chance by 
this method of spraying. We spray them 
at the same season as the peach trees, 
and it makes but little extra trouble. In 
fact, all the shrubbery in the yard is 
benefited by a dose of lime-sulphur, at 
least once a year, when dormant. 
Ohio. MRS. C. L. VOLLMER. 
Lime-sulphur for Tent Caterpillars. 
Referring to your note on page 679 
about lime-sulphur and tent caterpillars, 
my experience for the last three years has 
been that whenever trees were sprayed 
with this material. Winter strength, be¬ 
fore the eggs hatch and the leaves open, 
all eggs were destroyed. I have sprayed 
a great number of trees for different per¬ 
sons, and in every case the results have 
been entirely satisfactory in this respect. 
Old Chatham, N. Y. d. e. s. 
Shade Trees; Keeping Apples. 
Reading the article by A. C. W. on 
page 683 I am moved to inquire what he 
considers a short-lived tree. There are, 
I think, miles of maple-shaded streets in 
this town. Those who planted them long 
ago ceased from their labors, but their 
work remains. I have little doubt that 
many of these trees are a hundred years 
old, some perhaps not more than 75, prob¬ 
ably more of that generation less than 50 
years of age. Does he expect a tree to 
live to the age of Methuselah? 
And again about keeping apples. We 
put them in the cellar in bins and open 
barrels and I have just been putting up 
apples, most of them apparently as fresh 
and plump as when put in with very little 
decay. The cellar is cool and rather 
damp and has been opened as little as 
possible, and the apples were sprayed 
and carefully picked. n. e. r. 
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