1064 
THE HURAt NEW-YORKER 
Preparations for Autumn Clothes 
A Plain SMOCK. —The little boy shown 
at the left is wearing the plain smock, as 
simple as an overall apron, that is now 
popular for both boys and girls. As 
shown it is of colored cretonne, with 
white pique collar; these cretonne gar¬ 
ments have been extremely popular all 
Summer, and are very quaint and pretty. 
Such a smock is often made of solid-col¬ 
ored chambray with the white pique col¬ 
lar, and w T hite piping at the cuff. Some¬ 
times there is a slanting set-in pocket, 
piped with white, but patch pockets are 
not used on these smocks, being too much 
like an apron. With this practical little 
garment the child merely wears bloomers 
or knickers attached to the under¬ 
wear, and one does away with the tire¬ 
some buttonholes that must be worked on 
the waistband of a little blouse. The 
smock has a short opening at the neck in 
front, fastened by a lacing, by buttons 
and loops, or by two pearl buttons at¬ 
tached to a tape like a sleeve-link, with a 
buttonhole at each side. These link but¬ 
tons look pretty, and being removed when 
the garment is washed there is nothing 
to be cracked or squeezed off by the 
wringer. 
Boys’ Clothes. —The two other boys’ 
figures show slight variations that have 
style, while remaining plain and practi¬ 
cal. In the central figure the plain little 
roundabout jacket is cut to be open in 
front, showing a vest. This may be 
merely the blouse with attached collar, or 
a waistcoat of pique with attached collar 
of the same. We have seen some dressy 
suits for small boys made after this model 
in black velveteen, with white pique vest 
and collar. It is also suitable for drill, 
galatea, linen and other wash materials. 
The small boy at the right shows the com¬ 
fortable, wide, rather short trousers in 
vogue, worn with a plain blouse that has 
a short closing like a middy, instead of 
buttoning down the front. It has collar, 
cuffs and band on set-in pocket of con¬ 
trasting color, fastenings being pearl but¬ 
tons on tape links. The trimming on the 
blouse should match the trousers. Brown 
is attractive with russet sandals. Chil¬ 
dren’s fashions are now so simple and 
sensible that there is no excuse for put¬ 
ting ugly garments on the little folks. 
Suggestions for Girls. —The two 
models shown for girls from six to 12 
will be excellent for school wear, thougn 
they may be made quite pretty enough 
for Sunday best. The frock at the left is 
merely a plain one-piece dress with long 
sleeves, with a sleeveless jacket worn over 
it. The underdress may be either a plain 
gored slip, or a little waist with the skirt 
attached, and is thus very practical for 
making over an outgrown dress. The 
little over-blouse is cut down square in 
the neck in front, the lower edge cut up 
in a battlement at front and back, show¬ 
ing a sash without ends. The large arm¬ 
holes and the edges are finished with ma¬ 
chine stitching; closing is effected with 
invisible snap-fasteners. The collar is of 
white pique. As figured this dress was 
made of pink and white striped tissue 
with pink chambray over-blouse and black 
satin sash. It would be very pretty for 
Winter wear in shepherds’ check woolen, 
or black and white block check, dress and 
over-blouse of the same, with a cherry 
colored sash, and the over-blouse piped 
with cherry color along all its edges. 
Black and white checks are prominent in 
children’s Fall clothes. 
A Kilt and Jacket. —The figure at 
the right is another practical model. ^ The 
kilted skirt of plaid is attached to an un- 
derwaist, and over it is worn a short Eton 
jacket with long sleeves. The little coatee 
is fastened by one fancy button, the but¬ 
tonhole overlapping in a rounded tab; the 
sleeves are finished with cuffs buttoning 
in a rounded tab. and a white pique Eton 
collar finishes the neck. For Summer 
wear such a dress may have a plaid ging¬ 
ham skirt and a chambray or linen 
coatee; for cold weather woolen plaid 
and plain serge are suitable, and make a 
sensible school dress. It would be very 
pretty, and quite dressy, with a kilted 
skirt of handsome plaid and a little 
coatee of black velvet bound with black 
silk braid. It will be noticed that thf 
skirts are quite short; many of the long- 
legged little girls one sees in the city are 
somewhat suggestive of old-fashioned 
Fuchsia flowers in the shortness of their 
skirts. 
The Plumi* Woman’s Clothes.— 
There is one attractive shop just off Fifth 
Avenue where special attention is given co 
clothes for stout women; one can buy 
ready-made garments up to 5G bust, 
planned wuth a view to the becoming. But 
the stout woman must remember that her 
outer garments will not look right unless 
the proper line is given by what is w r orn 
underneath. The greatest possible mis¬ 
take is to wear a very high snug-fitting 
corset, that gives a pouter-pigeon out¬ 
line. The corset should be large enough, 
carefully laced to proper position, not too 
high, and the bust comfortably supported 
by a brassiere, instead of a loose corset- 
cover. As the ready-made brassieres are 
of firm material, re-enforced under the 
arm, they do not rub out like the thin 
camisole. With this firm smooth outline 
underneath, the plump woman can wear 
a dress that is rather loosely draped, and 
this is more becoming than a clear-cut out¬ 
line. She should not wear a girdle that 
cuts her length in two; it is much better 
if the girdle is used, to separate it in 
front by the width of a vest. In the back 
the girdle is likely to be an advantage be¬ 
cause plump women are often a little hol¬ 
low just below the waist line at the back, 
and a crush girdle takes off this effect a 
little. Some dressmakers use a tiny 
crescent-shaped pad just below the belt 
at the back to overcome this hollow spot, 
which has a tendency to make the skirt 
draw towards the front. Some of the 
lace blouses worn this Summer which had 
the loose cape effect in the back, were be¬ 
coming to plump women, as they gave an 
indefinite outline without the cut-off effect 
at the waist. Fabrics with a dull finish 
that absorbs the light will be found more 
becoming than shiny materials. Separate 
waists of contrasting color increase the 
apparent size, though the convenient thin 
white waist may be worn under a jacket. 
Generally speaking, however, waists 
matching the jacket suit are advisable. 
Some handsome waists offered for Fall 
wear are satin-striped chiffon, self-colored 
inch stripes, and these would be very be¬ 
coming to a plump wbman. Flounces, or 
skirt trimmings that break the length, 
are not for the plump woman. In Fall 
dresses we see many variations of the 
redingote model, and these offer becom¬ 
ing styles for the plump, including some 
sleeveless models to wear over guimpes. 
Conservative Styles. —So far, the 
new Autumn fashions shown are very 
conservative, without the exaggeration of 
two years ago. Skirts are a comfortable 
length ; not so short as in the Spring, but 
a modest ankle length. The figure is to 
be natural, with a real waist line, and 
the skirts are to be wide, but no longer 
stand out to excess. Dark and sober 
colors are the vogue. A rich bronzy shade 
called African brown is shown in silks 
and jacket suits, and there are many fa¬ 
vored shades of blue, gray and taupe. 
The blues include midnight, navy, French 
and Belgian. Some of the shops are dis¬ 
playing many purple shades, which are 
favored by one of the great French dress¬ 
makers, and especially featuring purple 
petticoats, to be worn with the sober- 
August 28, lOlfi 
hued gowns. Prune, plum, Russian myrtle 
and bottle green are also among leading 
colors. 
The jackets are plain and straight ir 
cut with set-in sleeves, though we still 
see some with flaring or pleated skirts, 
Tailored skirts are 2 y 2 to 3% yards 
around, some circular, some with slot 
seams, and some pleated. We are also 
promised the return of gored skirts with 
an inverted pleat at the back. Among 
silk waists, we have seen pretty new 
models in rose, pale pink and blue, which 
are intended for wear with dark jacket 
suits, though the contrasting colored silk 
waist, except in flesh color, has not held 
popularity of late years with American 
women. Awning striped waists, however, 
in voile and silk, have been popular all 
Summer with white wash skirts. 
Among Fall woolen fabrics are whip¬ 
cords with a soft lustrous finish. Gabar¬ 
dine and poplin hold their popularity. 
Among the silks, taffeta and faille still 
bold favor, also a variety of satins. There 
are many handsome plaids, some of the 
redingote dresses being made of plaid in 
combination with plain material. 
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Simple Models for Small Boys. 
