1168 
THE R UKA I> NEW-YORKER 
The New Fall Dress 
Conservative Comfort. —The Autumn 
fashions shown so far have a look of com¬ 
fort and good taste; rich or sober colors, 
reasonably full skirts of convenient length 
and some of the sleeves with more than a 
hint of fullness at the shoulder. The very 
short skirts that made a mature woman 
look as though trying to wear some little 
girl’s dress have given way to a discreet 
ankle length. The figure has changed; 
the slouchy, eaved-in look has disappear¬ 
ed. for the new corsets have a real waist 
line and hips. It is unfortunate that dur¬ 
ing the corsetless period (for the little 
girdles and low bust effect really gave 
no constraint) instead of acquiring an 
erect carriage and grace of figure so 
many women and girls permitted them¬ 
selves to look slouchy and awkward. The 
new models will compel the wearer to 
show a curving waist-line and to hold her¬ 
self erect, with shoulders back, but this 
does not mean tight lacing. The new 
princesse dresses call for trimmer outline, 
and the girdle dresses do not have the 
bloused negligence of last season. So, 
to show off a new Autumn gown one must 
be brisk, erect and trim in figure, and 
without the “debutante slouch” of last 
collar and a border of fur at the edge 
of the coat. As shown, the suit is dark 
Russian green gabardine or serge; the 
fur is otter. Otter, beaver and gray krim- 
mer are used for trimming suits, and it 
is quite easy to rejuvenate a suit not of 
the latest mode by applying fur trim¬ 
ming; a large neck-piece may be used 
in this way. A very “fussy” jacket suit, 
however, can rarely be remodeled, and 
A Serviceable Style. —The central 
figure shows a useful but attractive dress 
of a style that is sometimes made in oue 
piece, sometimes with skirt and blouse 
separate. We prefer it made in two pieces 
as that gives a separate skirt to wear 
with wash waists, and a jacket blouse 
♦ hat may go with other skirts. The blouse 
is a plain yoke model of dark green serge, 
with double-breasted effect; there are two 
buttons at top and bottom, the blouse 
being fastened between these by snap- 
fasteners The plaid girdle and collar arc 
removable, as well as the white pique 
A Jacket-Dress and Winter Suit. 
any economical purchaser should always 
aim to buy a suit that is well tailored 
and cut on good lines, without an ec¬ 
centricity of color or trimming, even if 
momentary fashion demands it. The hat 
shown is one of the plain wide-trimmed 
models of black velvet, with crown of 
moderate height, now so popular; the 
trimming is merely a white gros-grain 
band and rosette of black ribbon with 
center of white feathers. The angle at 
which the hat is worn determines its 
style. 
A Group of Girls. —The little dress 
at the left, in the second picture, will 
collar which must, of course, be removed 
for laundering, but by removing these 
plaid accessories and substituting a black 
satin collar and black patent leather belt, 
the blouse may be worn with a serge 
skirt of the same color, and look like a 
different dress. The plaid skirt is one 
of the dark tartans in which green pre¬ 
dominates. Such a dress will be very 
useful for the high-school or college girl, 
or the school teacher, being suit¬ 
able for wear without a coat in early 
Fall, or with the loose separate 
coat in Winter. The hat shown is of 
velvet, with a quartered crown, the trim¬ 
year. 
Modes and Trimmings. —The first 
styles show a great deal of dark blue. We 
are told that this color may be scarcer 
later on, owing to difficulties in securing 
dyes. Dark blue serge or gabardine, chif¬ 
fon cloth, taffeta, satin and the heavy silk 
called gros de J.ondres are favorite ma¬ 
terials. Combinations of silk and woolen 
materials are attractive, or sleeveless bo¬ 
lero or over-blouse of cloth or silk over 
chiffon—a very convenient style for turn¬ 
ing a plain gown into a dressy one. Braid 
of all sorts is freely used in trimming, 
some fine silk braids one-half inch to 
three inches in width being used as band¬ 
ing on skirts. There is a great variety in 
the redingote dresses, a style that will be 
found becoming by women of all ages. 
Some of the popular princesse models 
are modified redingote style. Stout wom¬ 
en must be warned against the princesse, 
as the close fit increases, rather than 
diminishes, the effect of bulk. Velvet 
promises to be much used for trimming, 
as well as for dresses and suits. Even in 
early September velvet dresses were seen, 
trimmed with fur. 
Two Dresses in One. —In the first 
picture there is a suggestion for making 
one dress do duty as two. The loose jack¬ 
et and skirt full enough to fall in graceful 
folds makes it a desirable model for a 
plump woman who does not wish to show 
a defined waist-line. The effect of a yoke 
on the skirt is given by applied silk braid 
and black silk crocheted buttons, the lit¬ 
tle sleeveless jacket being bound with 
silk braid and fastened with two large 
crocheted buttons, the cross-over tabs be¬ 
ing very becoming. As shown it is of 
dark blue gabardine, with an underblouse 
of black chiffon over white and white 
organdie collar; the braid and buttons 
are black. This makes a smart-looking 
afternoon dress, but it could be made 
quite dressy by having a sleeveless jacket 
of black chiffon velvet or satin, with 
handsome jet or cut steel buttons, the 
chiffon blouse being lined with lace or 
some nice all-over net. If the skirt be¬ 
longs to a jacket suit a plain blouse 
Would be worn under the coat, while 
the sleeveless jacket would make a sepa¬ 
rate gown in the house. If, in addition 
to this, the wearer had a separate black 
skirt she could wear the sleeveless jacket 
and blouse with this also, making an¬ 
other change. For a gray-haired woman 
a handsome gown of this style would be 
plum-colored gabardine or broadcloth with 
the over-jacket of chiffon velvet of the 
same color, the under-blouse plum-colored 
chiffon over figured net with a silver 
thread in the pattern. Silver lace is 
among favored trimmings, especially under 
chiffon. 
Fur Trimming. — Fur is seen on all 
sorts of fabrics, even edging filmy trans¬ 
parent materials. It is a conspicuous 
feature of the new suits. The jacket 
suit at the right gives a good idea of 
the prevailing silhouette. The suit is 
absolutely plain, but curves in at the 
waist; there is the high close “muff” 
Three Useful Fall Models 
be especially becoming to the tall slight 
girl who is rather inclined to angles and 
lankiness. As shown, the skirt is of dark 
blue serge trimmed with three bands of 
black silk braid of graduated width. The 
little sleeveless jacket is of black satin, 
the under-blouse of black chiffon lined 
with white net, the cuffs of satin. The 
little jacket may be worn over a fine lin¬ 
gerie blouse—if desired. The same model 
makes up very prettily in silk poplin or 
taffeta, with velvet bands on the skirt 
and a velvet jacket; a brown-eyed girl 
would find it becoming in golden brown 
with an under-blouse of ecru or of fawn 
with an apricot tinge. 
ming being stiff wings put on at the 
back. 
A Jumper Dress. —The figure at the 
right shows a plain little dress that 
makes use of smocking. The skirt is 
made by a plain pattern allowing for gath¬ 
ering, which is arranged in groups of 
smocking. The waist has fullness at the 
shoulder, which is smocked. This would 
be attractive in challis, or in silk poplin 
or other soft material. The neck is cut 
in a V, with a curved collar of white 
silk, but the collar should be removable, 
and pique may be used if desired. If 
chiffon sleeves are used they may be at¬ 
tached to the armhole, but it is eonven- 
Septembcr 25, 191L 
ient to wear with a sleeved guimpe of 
some lingerie material. This model is 
a useful one for making over an old dress, 
as it enables one to discard sleeves, ! f 
they are shabby or difficult to make over. 
If the skirt has to be joined to lengthen 
it the join may be concealed by using 
bands of trimming, as in the dress at 
the left. A guimpe made by attaching 
sleeves of chiffon or crepe de chine to 
a lawn underwaist is a convenience that 
may be worn with any of these sleeveless 
waists. 
Fall Hats. —Black velvet hats are 
always the early Fall favorites, and there 
are plenty of them, but stiff high-crowned 
shapes in hatter’s plush are newer. Some 
of these are stiff little “top hats” of 
postilion shape, which can only be worn 
by one to whom severe styles are becom- 
ing. They have very little trimming, 
sometimes only a gros-grain band; some¬ 
times just an ornament of steel or beads, 
or a stiff little feather cockade or woolen 
flower. There is a strong tendency to 
higher crowns, some very square, some 
sloping towards the top like the postilion 
hat of the First Empire period, with a 
narrow brim that may be curved or 
straight. There are many little toques 
and tricornes, and there are also shir¬ 
red velvet hats with soft floppy brims, 
so aynone may select the hat best suited 
to her. A hat that is loaded with •rim¬ 
ming is absolutely out of date; there is 
only one thing that is more obsolete, and 
(hat is a willow plume. In buying a 
new hat the wearer must always study 
just how it is to be worn; no matter 
how attractive the hat is it loses style 
if not worn just right, and at the proper 
angle. The great vogue of cock’s feathers 
should be viewed with interest by the 
poultry industry; they are used to make 
entire toques or their brims, to edge 
felt and velvet hats, and for all sorts 
of plumes and fancy feathers. Small 
toques of white hackle feathers are seen. 
The flowing plumes modeled after those 
worn by Italian soldiers are almost too 
popular already on hats of velvet or 
plush. 
Dressmaking Aids. —In making a one- 
piece dress (that is, any dress having 
waist and skirt joined together) there 
should always be an inside belt of web¬ 
bing. fastened snugly with hooks. Many 
people omit this, thinking the inside belt 
is only needed on a separate skirt, with 
the result that the skirt sags down, and 
the waist is pulled out of place; the waist 
line, too, will stretch. It is an economy 
to buy this belting by the piece, both 
black and white. Snap-fasteners may be 
purchased sewn on tape, like hooks and 
(‘.yes. costing from 15 to 20 cents a yard ; 
they save time on linings and plackets, 
though they must not be used where the 
tape would show. An ample supply of 
seam bindings will be very helpful in the 
sewing room. The white lawn bias bind¬ 
ing tape is not only satisfactory in finish¬ 
ing wash dresses along the seams, but 
also has many uses in making underwear. 
A cloth coat without lining or semi- 
lined calls for taffeta binding to finish 
seams. A lined coat should have a half 
dress-shield, neatly covered on the outer 
side with the same material as the coat 
lining, set in with its upper curved edge 
sewn in with the sleeve lining; this pro¬ 
tects the lining from possible soiling when 
a thin waist is worn. It should never 
be omitted in the case of a wearer who 
perspires freely. Very handsome coat 
linings are noted in the Fall suits, espe¬ 
cially American Beauty color with a dark 
blue suit. 
Sunbonnet for Sweepers, 
The following is taken from an English 
farm paper. Do some of the women who 
tie towels around their heads ever oo'i 
into the glass? 
Many ladies tie a towel arouud .heir 
heads when engaged in sweeping or other 
dusty work. This, however, takes some 
time to fix into position, and cannot be 
removed in a moment should an unex¬ 
pected caller arrive. The wiser plan is 
to make oneself a sunbonnet, or a cir¬ 
cular cap, either of which can be slipped 
on or off in a moment, and can also :>e 
trimmed to look pretty when being worn. 
I do not believe in anyone looking “any¬ 
how” when about her household duties 
—it’s just as easy to dress suitably, and 
more interest is felt in one’s work >f 
there is a feeling of self-respect in one’s 
appearance. 
