1302 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
The Home Dressmaker 
Dresses For Girls. —The first illus¬ 
trations on this page show three pretty 
styles for girls of various ages. At the 
left is a Russian dress that can be modi¬ 
fied for girls from six to 14 years old. 
With older girls the sash may be worn 
at the natural waist line, instead of 
long-waisted, as shown. The dress con¬ 
sists of a plain kilted skirt, which is 
either joined to an underwaist, or pro¬ 
vided with buttonholes in the waistband, 
to attach it to the same waist as the 
petticoat. Over this is a plain loose 
Russian blouse, fastening at the left side 
like a double-breasted garment, only the 
Russian blouse never has two rows of 
buttons. The sash is loosely knotted at 
the same side as the fastening. The 
blouse is edged with narrow fur, and 
there are two large round fur buttons, 
the blouse being finished with a round 
collar and turnback cuffs of heavy white 
linen. The original model seen was of 
midnight blue silk trimmed with otter, 
the collar and cuffs having a little dark 
blue embroidery, but it is a very desir¬ 
able model for fine serge, or any soft- 
finished woolen material, the sash being 
of the same material, or of silk. The 
blouse may be made of plain serge, and 
the skirt of harmonizing plaid, with very 
good effect. 
The central figure is a pretty style for 
a girl of five to 10 years. The original 
model seen was a party dress of pink 
taffeta with a fine nainsook guimpe, but 
it is very desirable for challis or other 
soft woolen material. The little peas¬ 
ant waist is perfectly plain, the neck 
and armholes being piped with the same 
material. The plain gathered skirt is 
trimmed with five three-inch bias ruffles, 
gathered on a cord to make a piping at 
the top; the ruffles overlap just enough 
to come over this cord, .so it only shows 
on the top one. Instead of a belt or 
girdle, the waist line is finished with a 
band shirred at. each side with a double 
line of gathers, put on flat. The dress 
fastens invisibly in the back. Nainsook 
is always the preferred material for little 
girls’ guimpes. 
The third dress is a plain little smock 
for a small child up to the age of five 
or six ; the model seen was a very stylish 
one, while plain enough for the most 
sensible mother. It was made of fine 
dark blue serge, with long sleeves and 
high neck, gathered a little at the neck 
in bishop style. What made it so at¬ 
tractive was the use of bright-colored 
cross-stitch embroidery in heavy mer¬ 
cerized cotton. The colors used were 
rose, old blue, olive green and black. 
There was a long medallion of cross- 
stitch on each sleeve; not at the cuff, but 
starting at the elbow and running half 
way down to the cuff. There was a de¬ 
sign starting just below the collar across 
the smock in front, and two small tri¬ 
angle-shaped medallions at the back. 
The neck and wrists were finished with 
black satin piping and rows of cross- 
stitch, but we think a little collar cf 
white pique an attractive addition. This 
quaint? little frock is so sensible that it 
should prove a popular Winter model. 
Two Street Dresses. —In the sec¬ 
ond cut, the figure at the left shows 
a pretty modification of the pleated 
dress in redingote style. The model seen 
was of dark blue serge, pleated down the 
center of back and front, the waist with 
a yoke that fastens invisibly in the 
center, so that the pleating does not go 
right up to the collar. The sleeves are 
long and tight-fitting.' with a flaring cuff 
faced with black satin, and trimmed on 
the outer seam with five black ball but¬ 
tons. On each side of the waist and at 
the bottom of the skirt on each side of 
the pleats, are four ball buttons with 
simulated buttonholes made of cord 
covered with black satin. Instead of an 
ordinary belt, the waist line is defined 
by two half-inch bands of black satin, 
fastened by two little steel buckles. 
There is a turn-down collar of white 
organdie, with a black satin tie in front. 
This dress fastens down the front with 
invisible snap-fasteners. 
The dress in the center shows the Rus¬ 
sian blouse effect, and may be made 
either with a separate blouse, or a three- 
tier skirt with attached waist. The model 
shown is of African brown gabardine, 
trimmed with velvet of the same color. 
In making with a three-tier skirt pat¬ 
tern, the upper tier is opened at the side 
front, and sloped up enough to give the 
irregular edge, the velvet band coming 
down the side of the opening, following 
the side closing of the waist. The latter 
is made with a very smart curved yoke 
and full sleeves set in large arm-holes; 
there is a high choker collar of the vel¬ 
vet. The fullness of the sleeves is gather¬ 
ed into flare cuffs, trimmed with narrow 
velvet. The picturesque hat shown is 
dark brown velvet, trimmed with a small 
burnt orange pompon. Either of these 
dresses is suitable for Fall wear without 
a wrap, or for use under a separate coat 
during Winter. 
Ax Evening Dress. —The little even¬ 
ing dress shown at the right is dainty 
and girlish, yet simple enough for any 
home dressmaker. It is a plain gathered 
skirt, trimmed with five 3%-inch ruf¬ 
fles at intervals. The waist is perfectly 
plain, being practically covered by the 
bertha and girdle. The deep round 
bertha of lace is headed by a frill of the 
dress material, and the neck is then 
filled in with a round gathered tucker 
of white net. Lace frills form the sleeves. 
The deep girdle has ends with upstanding 
bows in the middle of the front, a few 
little sprays of artificial flowers being 
tucked into the bow. China silk, crepe 
de chine, or some of the fine silk and 
cotton materials will make up prettily 
in this model, with shadow lace for the 
frills, or embroidered chiffon or net, if 
expense is not a consideration. A wreath 
of ribbon flowers could be used in place 
of the little frill heading the bertha. A 
dress of pale pink with a willow-green 
sash would be very pretty, or pale blue 
with an old rose sash, while white could 
be varied by using different colors. In 
selecting any of the lavender shades be 
sure that they are attractive by artificial 
light, for some look gray, and others al¬ 
most brown. The delicate orchid shades 
that have a pinkish tinge are usually 
very pretty in the evening. 
Trimmings And Accessories. —Some 
girls’ dresses from exclusive shops have 
been trimmed along the edges of waist, 
sleeve and round neck with button¬ 
hole stitching of worsted, the threads 
coming about one-half inch deep and 
one-fourth inch apart. It was quite 
quaint and pretty, and very easily done. 
The same trimming was pretty edging 
a wide belt and its flowing ends. Peas¬ 
ant embroidery in worsted is quite often 
used. A dark blue serge dress had a 
medallion of this crewel embroidery on 
cuffs and sash ends, in deep rose, black 
and fawn, which made an attractive 
finish. A simple trimming that is often 
used very effectively is inch-wide pleat- 
ings of grosgrain ribbon, and this is 
often seen edging collars, or slashed 
pockets, or down the front of blouses. It 
is very desirable for trimming a young 
girl’s clothes. For silk and thin materials 
spangles and beads are again in favor; 
spangled draperies, tunics and vests, and 
applique trimmings of beads. Velvet 
bandings are used very attractively; this 
is a velvet season, and it is used in 
every possible way; some light-weight 
velveteens, in fashionable dark colors, 
recently noted, were $1.25 a yard for 
19-inch width. Fur is used as a trim¬ 
October 30, 1915. 
ming on all sorts of material, cloth, vel¬ 
vet. silk, chiffon and lace. A fur border 
of one-inch width is seen on many 
dresses, edging tunics or blouses, cuffs 
and collars. This is always of the short 
fur, otter, beaver, krimmer, fitch, sable, 
ermine, etc. We still see the foot of the 
skirt trimmed with such furs as fox, 
skunk or raccoon, but this is not as new 
as the use of fur edging on coat or 
blouse. Large fur buttons are very often 
used to trim coats or Russian blouses. 
The girl who has a little set of gray 
krimmer stored away from her childish 
days may utilize it now very satisfac¬ 
torily, for a child’s neck-piece would 
make a close muff collar, and a new 
large muff could be made, combining the 
fur with velvet of the same color as the 
suit. Perhaps there would be enough to 
edge the cuffs too. Krimmer is especially 
pretty with a dark green or blue suit; 
otter or beaver with brown. With a 
separate coat of rough cloth, such as 
tweed or heavy mixed homespun, instead 
of a fur collar the smartly dressed girl 
wears a muffler of angora wool in some 
bright becoming color, one end thrown 
back across the shoulders. The heavy 
coat does not need a separate fur collar 
for warmth, nor does such a fur piece 
fit properly over the mannish cut. The 
muffler, in gold color, rose, tan, peacock 
or old blue, golden brown, and shaded 
stripes, is a pretty and comfortable 
adaptation from motor wear; such muf¬ 
flers may be bought for $1.50, or made 
by home knitters. 
Details of Making. —A silk dress 
should have a waist lining of stout 
net, very carefully fitted, seams French- 
felled and neck and armholes finished 
with narrow lace. It should close with 
small snap fasteners. Such a lining gives 
a neat professional touch and takes away 
any suggestion of the homemade. A 
stout woman may have the seams care¬ 
fully boned and, if preferred, a crossbar 
batiste may be used instead of the net, 
although there are firm nets that will 
hold shape. A girl’s party dress may 
have this lining made of the broad 
shadow lace used to line chiffon blouses, 
having broad eyelets at the top for run¬ 
ning in ribbon, which is drawn around 
under the arms, and tied in front. A 
woman who perspires very freely should 
wear, under a silk or other thin dress, 
those special shields that are attached 
to a sort of net brassiere, large enough 
to reach well beyond the arm both in 
back and front. These shields are put on 
separately, not attached to the dress. 
They are a real economy,, for a nice 
gown may be ruined by carelessness in 
this particular. If a dress is only worn 
at long intervals, it is wise to use only 
shields guaranteed odorless, for the “rub¬ 
bery” smell of ordinary shields often 
clings unpleasantly to the gown when kept 
in a closet. Of course the shields should 
be thoroughly dried and aired before the 
dress is put away. If the sleeves are 
transparent, flesh-colored shields should 
be used. It will be noticed that many 
ready-made dresses have raw edges of 
waist seams finished with buttonhole 
stitch in heavy thread. This is done by 
machine, but coarse buttonhole stitch can 
be done by hand very rapidly, and looks 
better than overcasting, and this method 
will be found convenient where one does 
not wish to bind the seams. A braid at 
the bottom of the skirt is put on very 
firmly by machine before the hem is 
stitched up. Baste the hem to the right 
width and press; then take out basting 
and lay the braid flat on the goods just 
as it would be put on the turned-up hem. 
Baste in place and stitch by machine 
on the flat material, then turn up hem, 
baste, and stitch in place. However, un¬ 
less machine stitching forms part of the 
trimming a skirt hem should be very 
neatly sewn by hand, for the machine 
stitching draws more or less with wear, 
while the hand sewing is almost invisi¬ 
ble. As most skirts clear the ground well, 
many women never use braid on the bot¬ 
tom, but it is certainly a great protec¬ 
tion where the skirt gets hard wear. 
The absence of lining and canvas facing 
prevents a skirt from cutting at the 
edge as readily as formerly, as well as 
relieving the wearer of much unneces¬ 
sary weight. 
Tommy —“I want another box of those 
rulls like I got for mother yesterday.” 
Druggist—“Did your mother say they 
were good?” Tommy—“No, but they fit 
my air gun.”—Credit Lost. 
Three Models for the Younger Girls. 
Two Street Dresses and an Evening brock. 
