C • 0 
U'H£C RUKA.L N EW-YOHKER 
1349 
The Home Acre 
Notes from a Maryland Garden. 
Chrysanthemums From Seed.—I 
have always had a fancy for growing 
seedling plants of the perennial sorts, 
and all the Dahlias and Chrysanthemums 
I have, have been grown from seed and 
selections made from year to year till I 
have a very fair collection of both, and 
especially of the hardy pompon varieties 
of Chrysanthemums. I am not at all 
partial to the great mop-headed flowers 
produced by the florists. I am satisfied 
with an abundance of flowers of medium 
size. This year I have grown a lot of 
plants from Japanese seed that were 
claimed to be especially early bloomers. 
These seem to be a mixture of the pom¬ 
pons and the large-flowered sorts. I 
have some regular golden buttons and 
others with large incurved flowers that 
would make immense ones if they had 
been closely disbudded. Rut the wide 
spreading semi-double ones are rather the 
most attractive for cutting. One, the 
natural flowers of which are about four 
inches in diameter, with four rows of 
bronze petals striped with crimson and a 
big yellow disk, makes to my mind a far 
prettier cut flower for a vase than the 
ones grown as large as a cabbage heal. 
The big flowers are fine specimens of 
fiorieultural skill, but a vase of the 
smaller flowers and foliage is far more 
beautiful in my opinion. Some of the 
best of the seedlings will be taken ins.ide 
for propagation, and the remainder will 
remain outside to test their hardiness. 
The Value of Shelter.— My place is 
out only a single block from the city 
limits, where the houses stand wide apart 
and the wind has a scope. Our first kill¬ 
ing frost came on the morning of the 
25th, and my Dahlias, Cannas, Salvias 
and in fact all tender plants, were cut 
down and blackened. Rut only two or 
three blocks away the Dahlias and 
Cannas are still blooming. The houses 
stand closer together and the street trees 
are older and larger, and the plants evi¬ 
dently did not suffer the same temper¬ 
ature that mine did. This frost came 
about three days earlier than the average 
date here, which is October 28th. 
Lettuce and Radishes. —The garden 
interest is now mainly in the frames and 
greenhouse. I shall use some nitrate of 
soda now between the lettuce plants in 
order to push them on rapidly for Christ¬ 
mas. I am just setting another frame in 
which the white-tipped turnip radishes 
will be sown in six-inch rows. I expect 
to get these out by January, and use the 
frame for growing onion plants for 
Spring setting. 
Onions. —As I have before said, I 
grow sets of the Prize-taker, Commercial 
and other of the large Spanish and 
Italian types of onions. These I am 
keeping for Spring planting, in order to 
compare them with the plants grown 
under glass. If the sets do as well they 
can be produced more cheaply than the 
plants grown in Winter under glass. The 
Norfolk Queen onions and the Yellow Po¬ 
tato onions are now up with tops 10 
inches high. With the little garden hand 
plow I will shortly throw a furrow to the 
tows on each side as a Winter protection 
to be pulled away in Spring. 
Spinach. —The favorable weather has 
brought on the late-sown spinach amaz¬ 
ingly, and it promises not only to be 
strong enough to winter over but may 
be ready for cutting by Christmas. The 
early-sown Fall crop has been cut, and 
for a time we are dependent on kale and 
turnip tops for greens, and while the Fall 
growth of turnip leaves from seed are not 
as good for greens as the young leaves 
that start from the root in Spring, they 
are not to be despised, and to cur taste 
are better than kale. 
Weeds. —With the departure of the 
Summer weeds the Winter ones are ap¬ 
pearing, such as the dead nettle, Lamium 
amplexicaule, and chickweed. Why such 
a lively plant as the Lamium should get 
the name of dead nettle is rather mys¬ 
terious, for it likes the cold, and grows 
no matter how cold it gets and with the 
chickweed is in bloom before Winter is 
over. I have had several letters asking 
how to get rid of the chickweed in a gar¬ 
den. I do not mind it much, for it makes 
a good Winter mulch for some things, 
and it gives no trouble in hot weather. 
Rut people fail to get rid of it because 
they fail to understand how early it 
seeds. The way to get rid of it is to 
keep it hoed off all Winter and leave 
none to bloom and seed. The Lamium is 
a far worse weed. Nitrate of soda, 
sprinkled on the chickweed in the morn¬ 
ing when the leaves are wet, will settle 
it very suddenly. 
Fall Rulbs. —The Fall bulbs are 
planted with the exception of the Roman 
hyacinths and the Paper White Narcis¬ 
sus, which we plant after the soil gets 
cold, so as to keep them dormant for 
Spring blooming. Flats and pots of bulbs 
for the greenhouse are covered up out¬ 
doors to get well rooted before bringing 
them in. When brought in the flats 
planted with early tulips will go under 
the bench and near the hot-water pipes. 
There, having only a partial light, they 
will get drawn up and give us better 
stems for cutting. w. F. massey. 
Dwarf Fruit Trees. 
I would like to plant a few dwarf fruit 
trees in my garden, different kinds of 
fruit in one row. Should I run the row 
north and south? IIow far apart in the 
row, and would six feet from a wire 
fence be about right for the first one? 
Could I plant raspberries between fence 
and trees? Would my Orpington chick¬ 
ens do any harm after second year if trees 
were grown in bush form? My garden is 
small and I have to plant as close as 
possible. c. G. 
North Arlington, N. Y. 
There is no objection whatever to the 
row of fruit trees running north and 
south. In strong soil, dwarfs should stand 
about 10 feet apart in the row, but in 
soil that is only moderately rich they 
may stand as close as eight feet apart. 
A distance of five or six feet aw r ay from 
the wire fence will give ample room. It 
would not be advisable to plant rasp¬ 
berries so close to dwarf trees; to do so 
would require much care to keep the 
berry plants from encroaching upon the 
fruit trees, to their detriment and per¬ 
haps permanent injury. The space be¬ 
tween the fence and trees may be profit¬ 
ably utilized for currants and gooseber¬ 
ries without danger of Injury to the fruit 
trees. 
liens, if not kept supplied with good 
food of a more palatable nature, will feed 
on the foliage of the fruit trees to con¬ 
siderable extent, and thus do more or less 
harm to the young trees. In my chicken 
yard I have a few Chinese chestnuts 
planted, and trained on the wire fence 
enclosing the yard are several climbing 
roses- The hens have kept the chestnuts 
and roses denuded of foliage as high as 
they could reach by jumping, nearly all 
season, and at one time the young chest¬ 
nut trees were completely stripped of 
foliage. These young trees barely pulled 
through the Summer alive, and if they 
are to be saved they must be removed out 
of reach of the hens before another grow¬ 
ing season arrives. Small or dwarf trees 
stand a poor show in an enclosure with 
hens, unless the hens are kept well sup¬ 
plied with green food that is more pala¬ 
table than the foliage of the trees. K. 
Culture of Garlic. 
I would like information on the grow¬ 
ing of garlic for the Italian trade. Where 
are seeds obtained? c. H. I. 
Lockport, N. Y. 
Garlic is of the easiest culture, and 
will succeed on any soil that is suitable 
for onions. It is grown or propagated by 
dividing the bulbs, which are listed by 
the seedsmen as cloves or sets, and can 
be procured from any of the large seed 
houses. They are planted as early in 
Spring as the ground is in condition for 
working, in rows 12 to 15 inches apart, 
and from five to six inches apart in the 
row. They should be given frequent cul¬ 
tivation and be kept free from weeds. 
The crop matures in August, and is har¬ 
vested and cured same as the onion, ex¬ 
cept the topping, which is omitted, as 
they are sold by the string in nearly all 
the markets that cater to the alien trade, 
the tops being plaited to form the 
strings, and are usually made about three 
feet long. k. 
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