1406 
THE Ud IJ K.A. L, NEW-YUKKEK 
November 27, 1915. 
fashionable amusement, and the shops 
are full of garments designed for thus 
sport. In underwear, there are skating 
bloomers to take the place of petticoats, 
and skating corsets with broad inserts of 
elastic in front and over the hips. There 
are high laced skating shoes, fur-trim¬ 
med skating skirts, and skating sweaters 
of brushed wool with contrasted trim¬ 
ming. There are some attractive separate 
skirts for skating of striped velvet, red 
and green flannel, or black and gray 
melton. Among more expensive skating 
costumes are some of leather, skirt and 
coat trimmed with fur. Skating hats 
are close turbans, tarns and scarf shapes. 
This demand for outdoor clothes is re¬ 
sulting in pretty and sensible fashions 
very suitable for country wear. The 
sensible skating skirt may be worn with 
a blouse of woolen or silk; we noted 
recently some plain tailored waists of 
plaid flannel, with silk collar and cuffs, 
which were very smart looking; they 
were especially designed for school and 
college wear, and would be found very 
comfortable in cold weather. 
Pockets Return. —It is quite inter¬ 
esting to notice that pockets are once 
more with us; they have returned with 
side-laced shoes and hats held on with 
elastic under the chin. Most of the 
pockets are ornamental; either patches, 
or flaps, or slashes elaborately edged, or 
finished with fancy stitching. Many 
skirts of thinner materials have the full¬ 
ness made into looped folds at the sides, 
like paniers, and a real pocket may be 
placed in these folds. Women have so 
long cumbered themselves with wristbags 
of all shapes and sizes that a practical 
pocket will come as a surprise. Other 
revivals are the full petticoat, with every 
possibility of starched white ones by 
Spring, and the foreshadowed fringe and 
pompadour in hair dressing. For a time 
the hair has been drawn back tightly 
enough to give a “skinned cat” effect, 
except for the puffing over the ears to 
suggest a “bob,” but the small high- 
crowned hats have called for high hair¬ 
dressing, waved back in a slight pompa¬ 
dour. The fringe on the forehead is not 
seen as a regular “bang,” merely a few 
loose waves, but the “bang” is predicted. 
The hat elastic is seen with some of the 
plain outing hats, which could not be 
pinned to the hair when it was ar¬ 
ranged low and drawn back tightly. 
Some of the trimmed hats have “brides” 
—that is, a chin strap of narrow ribbon, 
fitting close, and fastened with a flat 
bow or loop with a tiny buckle or flower 
to finish it. The “bride” is very beeom- 
ming to a fresh girlish face. 
Variety in Headgear. —The small 
high crowned hats of postillion shape re¬ 
tain the popularity of early Fall, in 
velvet, hatter’s plush and a less expen¬ 
sive zibeline. Many of these hats have 
no other trimming than a narrow gros- 
grain band and flat bow, like a man’s hat; 
others have two or three narrow bands at 
intervals up the crown, each fastened by 
a small buckle at the center of the front; 
still others have a deep folded scarf with 
one large buckle in front, or small 
ostrich tips or fancy feathers near the 
back. Curled ostrich plumes are in high 
favor again. Some of the Amazon shapes, 
which are like a man’s silk hat with a 
crown about six inches high, have 
ostrich plumes curving over the brim, 
like a lady’s riding hat of about 1830. 
The wide velvet hats, which are always 
in favor, follow both sailor and Gains¬ 
borough models; the trimming is very 
simple, but put on at unexpected angles. 
Little toques of velvet alone or combined 
with fur, are often the close military 
shape with the crown higher at one side 
than the other; some are the beret style 
shown in the center figure, upper illus¬ 
tration, and others are softly folded so 
that they look as though merely twisted 
around the wearer’s head. Some of the 
toques are almost as high-crowned as 
tin* postillion hats, with a plume tower¬ 
ing still higher at the back. Brighter 
colors are now appearing in millinery, 
in place of the perpetual black and white 
of a few months ago; among them Gari¬ 
baldi red, poilu, a brilliant blue taking 
the French soldier’s nickname, a vivid 
Italian green, and some bright shades of 
rose, cerise and dahlia. In buying a 
postillion hat or small toque it is very 
necessary to learn just how to put it 
on at the right angle, for its style and 
becomingness depends on how it is worn. 
The Home Dressmaker 
Skirts and Blouses. —There is an 
increasing use of separate skirts, which, 
with different blouses, permit much 
greater variation in dress than the one- 
piece gown. It is always an economical 
fashion, because one good skirt can be 
worn with a variety of waists. The 
skirt should be selected with reference 
to any separate coat likely to be worn 
with it. Black leads, especially with the 
more dressy skirts, but we see a variety 
of blues, browns and greens, as well as 
plaids, checks and stripes. There is 
great variety in semi-made skirts, which 
are ready to wear when seams and hems 
are stitched, and which are easily fitted 
to a person who is not “stock size.” Cor¬ 
duroy skirts are very attractive in shades 
of brown, taupe and gray, but are not 
regarded as dressy, as they are usually 
made in the short sports styles, as are 
the check and plaid woolens. The girl 
with a separate coat of brown tweed or 
homespun would find a brown corduroy 
skirt very useful, or one of brown check 
or plaid. The figures in the first il¬ 
lustration show some popular models in 
these styles. 
For Winter Wear.— In the upper il¬ 
lustration, the figure at the left shows 
one of the plain skirts in sports style 
that are so easily made, or purchased 
semi-made, ready for stitching seams and 
hem. It is dark striped woolen, flannel 
or melton, buttoned down the front with 
large horn buttons. Applied strap pockets 
are attached to the plain stitched belt. 
The waist worn with it is a new revival 
of an old fashion, for it buttons down 
the back, a fashion sure to return with 
the high choker collars. The model seen 
was of fine lingerie batiste, trimmed with 
inch-and-a-half baby Irish insertion, 
which is gradually coming back into 
favor. Many women enjoy making this 
lace, and it is also a regular industry 
among Armenian and Italian women in 
this country, who have felt the pinch of 
hard times with the lessening demand 
for their work. Fine tucks give fullness 
to this waist; the sleeves are bishop 
style, and the high choker collar of in¬ 
sertion is headed by a flaring fold of the 
batiste, so arranged that it stands out all 
around with a slight upward curve. It 
may be wired or starched to hold shape. 
The center figure shows a skirt of 
similar shape with a narrow band of fur 
at top of the hem and oddly shaped ap¬ 
plied pockets, the material being plain 
broadcloth. The waist is a combination 
of plain and plaid taffeta, the model seen 
being of Russian green with green, black 
and red plaid. The plaid taffeta is often 
combined in this way with plain chiffon 
or Georgette crepe, which makes a dressy- 
looking blouse. As shown there is a 
tucked vest and plain collar of white 
organdie, which is removable. The sleeve's 
are quite full, but instead of the full¬ 
ness going right up to the arm seams, 
it is gathered under the epaulette strap, 
which comes down over the arm. 
At the right is a plain circular skirt 
of serge with flat bag pockets, and a 
plain waist of soiree silk, which is given 
a novel touch by the closing. A deep 
Vandyke at the top closes from right to 
left, and another below from left to 
right, each point being fastened by one 
large cut pearl button. Collar and bind¬ 
ing are of striped silk. The model shown 
was a soft fawn color, with fawn and 
white striped binding, which combined at¬ 
tractively with a skirt of African brown. 
Dresses for Girls. —The second illus¬ 
tration shows two attractive models for 
girls from eight to 14 years. The dress 
at the left is striped flannel, quite a 
popular material now, dark green with 
a narrow stripe of red. The dress is 
very simple, but is given a touch of 
novelty by its trimming, which is but¬ 
tonhole stitch in red worsted. There is 
a plain skirt, either circular or gored, 
with a deep yoke, a row of buttonholing 
outlining the edge of the yoke. The lit¬ 
tle bodice, slightly bloused at the waist 
line, has a square neck opening, and is 
fastened invisibly at the back; there are 
plain short sleeves. The edges of sleeves, 
neck opening and edge where fastened 
are all buttonholed with the worsted. 
These edges should all be neatly faced 
and pressed before the worsted stitching 
is put on. A crush girdle of black satin 
is shown in the picture, but a belt of the 
material edged with the buttonholing, is 
very pretty, especially if fastened at the 
left side of the front, with the ends form¬ 
ing plain stole sash ends. The guimpe 
worn with this frock is fine nainsook, 
with rather full sleeves, buttoned in 
front, the Eton collar edged with a nar¬ 
row frill. Dark brown flannel with a 
thread of orange in the stripe would be 
attractive with buttonholing of orange 
worsted. This sort of trimming is seen 
on children’s clothes sold at high-class 
specialty shops. 
The dress at the right is of dark blue 
woolen trimmed with black silk braid. 
The skirt is plain and full, but instead 
of being gathered the fullness is laid in 
side pleats, the center of the front being 
left plain to form a panel; the pleats fall 
free from the top. There are two rows 
of half-inch braid heading the hem. Skirt 
and waist are fastened at the back ; the 
fullness of the waist is laid in a broad 
pleat from the shoulder, but is not 
stitched down. Two rows of quarter-inch 
braid trim the waist under the arms, 
disappearing under the pleated fullness; 
the suspender straps buttoned to the belt 
are made separate. The full sleeves have 
a deep, plain cuff; it will be noticed that 
the braid trimming is not on the cuff, 
but on the fullness of the sleeve, thus 
displaying an old-time fashion that is 
now a new one. The neck is cut in a 
V, filled to the proper depth for the 
collar with plain black satin. The col¬ 
lar worn is of organdie or fine linen, and 
is put on separately under the dress. 
This simple dress is suitable for any soft 
woolen, challis, etc., and is very pretty 
and girlish. 
Skating Clothes. —This Winter skat¬ 
ing is to take the place of dancing as a 
Three Separate Skirts and Blouses. 
Two Pretty Models for Young Girls. 
