THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1435 
The Home Acre 
Liming a Lawn. 
Will you tell me what to do with a 
grass plot in the back yard of a city 
dwelling to feed same? I have some 
slaked lime. Can I mix this with water 
and sprinkle over plot? Will lime water 
do harm to the grass and hardy plants? 
New York. f. t. s. 
Lime in reasonable quantity is not 
harmful to any kind of vegetation, that 
requires a sweet soil, and is always of 
more or less benefit. You may with per¬ 
fect safety apply air-slaked lime to your 
grass plot and hardy plants, at the rate 
of a half ton to the acre, sown broad¬ 
cast. Do it this Fall: then in the Spring 
as soon as the frost is out of the ground, 
apply pure raw bone meal, sown broad¬ 
cast at the rate of 500 pounds per acre, 
and about midsummer, apply an equal 
quantity. The following Spring and 
Summer, apply pulverized sheep manure, 
in the same quantities and at same times 
as directed for the applications of bone 
meal. K. 
Feeding a Swarm of Bees. 
During the third week of October while 
walking through the woods, I discovered 
a fine swarm of bees with comb built on 
hazel bushes. I took a hive, and putting 
it under comb cut away the branches all 
but one, then pushed comb, bees and all 
down in hive, cut the last branch leaving 
them in hive. I discovered the bees had 
no honey, so I purchased about 10 pounds 
of box honey «.nd 10 pounds of the crush¬ 
ed honey, the latter I spread on plates, 
which they take up very rapidly. Will 
the bees fill the comb with the honey? 
Will the 20 pounds of honey, box and 
crush'd, be enough to winter them? Do 
you think they will send out a new swarm 
next Spring? Could I nack the 10 pounds 
of boxed honey so they will eat it during 
Winter? The bottom has all the frames 
taken out, as I knew they would not fill 
them this Fall. The comb is a large one 
and is built in sections. This they have 
fastened to the hive. I know how to 
pack hive for Winter, but I am worried 
shout them starving. I intend to transfer 
them to a fully equipped hive next 
Spring. R . z . H , 
Ohio. 
5 our method of hiving the swarm was 
correct, except that it would have been 
far better if you had had regular combs 
on which to put the bees. You speak of 
the hive, and mention the frames, but in 
the absence of any statement to the con¬ 
trary it is assumed that the frames were 
empty. That being the case your pro¬ 
cedure was correct. Usually it is inad¬ 
visable to buy ordinary honey on the 
market, and give it to a colony of bees 
that has no bee disease. Perhaps one- 
third of all the honey for sale contains 
the germs of bee disease, and while these 
germs are perfectly harmless to human 
beings the giving of such honey to bees 
would bring on bee disease—foul brood, 
either American or European, next 
Spring or Summer. The chances are, 
however, two to three, that the bees in 
question will not get any disease. 
Had you had a set of combs on which 
to put the bees the proper thing would 
have been to cause the bees to run down 
on the combs, take away the comb which 
they had built in the bushes, and then 
feed them sugar syrup made of two parts 
sugar to one of hot water, stirring thor¬ 
oughly until the sugar is all dissolved. 
It would require about 20 pounds of 
either honey or sugar syrup to carry the 
bees through the Winter and give them 
enough to last until the coming Summer, 
so that the amount of box honey and 
crushed honey you have given the bees 
will be about right. 
Will they take these stores? Yes. they 
will utilize them, but the hive should be 
packed very warmly and no extra space 
should be left. That is to say, all vacant 
space in the hive that the bees do not 
occupy should be filled with 'eaves or 
straw. The bees will cluster upon the 
honey, and probably do very well upon 
it until Spring; but you should transfer 
them as soon as warm weather comes on 
into the movable frames that you have. 
Such a colony, if it is a good one, ought 
to cast a swarm by next Summer. A 
good deal, of course, will depend on how 
they Winter. If you have a dark cellar 
that never freezes it. perhaps would be ad¬ 
visable for you to put the colony in the 
cellar, but it should be kept very dark, 
and the temperature should never go be¬ 
low 40 degrees F. If you have no such 
place winter outdoors, but pack straw or 
leaves all around the outside of the Live, 
then cover with boards so as to keep the 
packing material dry. Some use a cheap 
grade of roofing paper which they put 
over the packing case to shut out snow 
and rain. e. is. root. 
Ohio. 
Transplanting Wild Cedars and Roses. 
What would be the best time to set 
out cedar trees from the woods and fields, 
Fall or Spring? Also wild rose bushes. 
Babylon, N. Y. j. T. 
Spring planting of wild evergreens, is 
almost invariably more successful than 
Fall planting. The trees found in the 
woods and fields seldom make many 
fibrous roots, therefore the soil will not 
adhere to the roots as it will to nursery- 
grown stock that has been transplanted 
one or more times, hence it is seldom the 
wild or forest trees can be removed with 
a ball of earth. To enable evergreens to 
retain their foliage during the Winter, 
they must be supplied with plenty of 
moisture at all times, and any condi¬ 
tion they are subjected to that will cut 
off the moisture supply, such as going 
into the Winter following a very dry 
Fall season, and continuing dry through¬ 
out the greater portion of the Winter, 
with high winds, will frequently kill even 
large trees that have been long estab¬ 
lished. The writer has seen hundreds of 
large evergreens die in the nursery row 
from Winter drought. Therefore it is al¬ 
ways safer to plant any kind of evergreen 
in the Spring. Wild roses may be plant¬ 
ed either in the Fall or Spring with 
equal success. In my experience I have 
found it quite hard to make them live, 
no matter when or how they were plant¬ 
ed. I consider it a better plan to grow 
them from seed; in this way there is 
never any trouble or but little loss when 
transplanting them to permanent quar¬ 
ters. In these days of so many beauti¬ 
ful cultivated roses, and the low price 
at which they can be purchased, no one 
should think of planting wild roses, un¬ 
less for some very special reason or pur¬ 
pose. K. 
Killing Quack Grass. 
I have seen from time to time several 
inquiries relative to killing quack grass. 
The following is sure on my sandy land. 
Plow shallow (four or five inches) as 
late as possible in the Fall, and plow 
deep crossways the following Spring in 
latter part of May; plant to some inter¬ 
tilled crop and keep the cultivator going 
as soon as planted. B. s. 
Liverpool, N. Y. 
Size of Tennis Court. 
On page 12N0 you have directions for 
making a tennis court and give two feet 
as the proper margin. This is far too 
small a margin even for amateurs. There 
should be a runout on each end of not 
less than 10 or 12 feet, and on the sides 
of not less than five feet. The rules call 
for the net posts to stand three feet out¬ 
side the court. Any ball falling inside 
the court is safe and to return one falling 
on, or just inside the line, especially if 
it is a fast one, one must have five or 
six feet of space to allow the ball to 
rise some, and some space to swing the 
racket, and I think that on tournament 
courts the runout on the ends is 20 feet 
or more. A. ii. D. 
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