112 
March 
THE CULTIVATOR. 
occasional heavy rain, which always hurts new set plants, 
and also guard them from the dew on cold nights which 
is also very harmful. These hoards and covers are not 
indispensible, hut they will, in a course of years, much 
more than cover their expense. I have often removed 
tomato plants with fruit as large as half dollars in entire 
safety. But you can not thus remove melons and cu¬ 
cumbers. 
V. Period of Maturity .—If the foregoing operations 
have been conducted with tolerable care and success, 
you will be able to cut cucumbers in eight or nine weeks 
from the seed, melons, of all sorts, in from sixteen to 
eighteen, and tomatoes in fifteen or sixteen weeks. 
Cautions.~Do not ordinarily plant any thing between 
your hills, as lettuce, radish and cabbages. They will be 
sure to make your bed too thick and close before they are 
large enough to draw. They may sometimes be safely 
sown on the front side of the bed. A large bed of plants 
sown on the foregoing plan seems to exhibit, for the first 
week or two, a great waste of ground, but long and 
varied experience has convinced me that they should, 
from the beginning, have all the ground. It may be 
well however to plant a few seeds, of the sort that con¬ 
stitutes your bed, between, to serve as a dependance to 
supply such hills as are destroyed by corn worms, &c. 
during the first two weeks. 
Profitableness of this plan. —A market gardener may 
usually make vegetables, cultivated on the foregoing plan, 
fairly profitable, even here (at Utica;) although the 
increasing facility with which all these productions are 
brought from New Jersey and Long Island, where they 
are cultivated by much cheaper modes, will in an indif¬ 
ferent or bad season, render them otherwise. 
Gardeners in the vicinity of cities, farther removed 
from the great thoroughfares would find it more profit¬ 
able. No man however should enter upon this plan on 
a large scale the first year, since there are too many 
delicate operations, a failure in any one of which would 
ruin his whole prospect. 
This plan on a small scale should be prosecuted in every 
considerable private garden. Thus cucumbers may al¬ 
ways be cut quite cheaply by the 25th of June, tomatoes 
by the 20th of July, and melons in variety by the 1st 
of August. C. E. G. Utica, Jan. 22, 1851. 
Good and Bad Transplanting. 
Linus Cone gives the following statement in the Michi¬ 
gan Farmer, for the purpose of showing the difference 
between abusing a young tree and treating it as its value 
and nature requires: 
“ Some twenty years since, I purchased and set out 
about fifty apple trees. They were large thrifty trees, 
of five or six years’ growth, taken up with great care 
and set out in the ordinary way—that is, by digging a 
small hole, and if the roots were too long, by twisting 
them round or cutting them off with a shovel, throwing 
the earth back and treading it down. About one-quarter 
of the trees died ; the balance gave me about a bushel 
of fruit the fifth year after setting. 
Again, two years ago, I set about the same number, 
of three years’ growth; none died, some bore last year, 
and this year nearly all; after thinning out to prevent 
the trees breaking, and what was blown off by the winds, 
I gathered about two bushels of fine apples. Here, 
then was the difference in setting—one bushel from fifty 
trees of eleven years’ growth, and two bushels from fifty 
trees of five years’ growth.” 
Great as were these advantages of careful transplant¬ 
ing, still greater would be found the difference, by simi¬ 
larly contrasted experiments, between careful, clean and 
mellow cultivation, and neglect, weeds and grass, for the 
first five years after transplanting. 
-- 
The two kinds of Landscape Gardening. 
We have never seen comprised within the space of a 
dozen full pages, a better contrast of the natural and 
artificial styles, than in these few words of Tuckerman: 
“ At Rome, the dipt, dense evergreens, weather-stained 
marbles, and humid alleys of the Villa Borghese, do not 
win the imagination like the vast, uncultivated campagna. 
A fine English park, with smooth roads intersecting 
natural forests, is more truly beautiful than a parterre 
surrounded by fantastic patterns of box, or studded with 
bowers and temples, like the back scene of a play.” 
Borrowing and Credit. —A large portion of the ar¬ 
ticles which appear in the Horticultural department ol 
the Cultivator, are extensively copied, often without any 
credit being given, and not unfrequently the credit is 
accorded to other papers; and some have even gone so 
far as very coolly to appropriate certain portions under 
their editorial heads, fully leaded, as original. This, 
however, is of little consequence to us ; but we must be 
allowed to object to receiving credit, as is sometimes the 
case, which we do not deserve. For example, a late 
number of Moore’s Rural New Yorker contains a 
copied article, ascribed to the Cultivator, giving as new 
and valuable, the old, twenty-times-exploded humbug, 
of raising fruit trees of different sorts from cuttings, by 
dipping the lower end in wax or tallow ! 
■-- 
The Spanish Chestnut—error corrected. —In the 
Jan. number of this paper, “ botanists” are represented 
by a mistake of the printer, as being “ surprised and 
amused at the result” of impregnating a sterile tree from 
a foreign source. Now as botanists are the last class of 
men to feel any surprise of the kind, the reader will un¬ 
derstand that the important word u not ” was omitted 
before the word 11 surprised.” 
-- 
Best Sorts or the Pea. —R. G. Pardee, of Palmyra, 
N. Y., an enterprising and skilful amateur cultivator, 
gives the following as the best out of ten selected kinds 
of the pea, obtained from Thorburn of New-York. The 
Early Emperor he regards as the best very early pea, 
and Hair’s New Mammoth Dwarf Marrow, as the 
largest, most productive, and richest pea of all. 
Protecting Half-hardy Shrubs. —The following 
method is recommended by the Horticulturist-Raise 
a small hillock of tan or charcoal or sand, round the 
trunk of the shrub, and turn a barrel over it. In order 
to admit a little light and air, raise the north side of the 
barrel a couple of inches, and put a stone under it. It is 
not the cold, but the sunshine after the cold, which de- 
stroys half-hardy plants. 
