14 
CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED. 
pistols are snugly pocketed inside our vest; our rifles are liber¬ 
ally charged; and with a cane in hand, (which of course con¬ 
tains a dirk), and a slung shot in our pockets, we step off and 
look around for the enemy. 
We crossed the river to Chagres, which consists of about 
thirty huts constructed of reeds, and thatched with palm-leaves, 
the inhabitants, the most squalid set of beings imaginable. 
They are all good Catholics, but do not go to the Bible for the 
fashions. There are fig-leaves in abundance, yet they are con¬ 
sidered by the inhabitants quite superfluous, they preferring the 
garments that nature gave them, sometimes, however, adding a 
Panama hat. 
We visited the fortifications, which were in a dilapidated state, 
the walls fast falling to decay. The only sentinels at the time 
of our visit, were three goats and two children. (See Plate.) 
It has a commanding position, and has been a work of much 
strength, but the guns are now dismounted, and the inhabitants 
ignorant of their use. In returning from the fort, we crossed a 
stream where a party of ladies were undressing for a bath, i. e., 
they were taking off their hats. We passed on, and after view¬ 
ing the “lions,” returned to our vessel, not very favorably im¬ 
pressed with the manners or customs of the town. 
We had contracted with the Alcalde for canoes to carry us up 
the river. The steamboat Orus, then plying on the river, hav¬ 
ing contracted to take up the Falcon’s passengers, had offered 
an advanced price, and secured all the canoes, including ours. 
Our Alcalde had been struck down to the highest bidder, and 
I will here say that, although many charges have been 
brought against the New Grenadians, they have never been 
accused of fulfilling a contract, especially if they could make 
a “real” by breaking it. We did not relish the idea of remain¬ 
ing until the canoes returned, as Chagres had the name, (and it 
undoubtedly deserved it,) of being the most unhealthy place in 
Christendom. Many of our passengers had their lives insured 
before starting, and there was a clause in each policy, that re¬ 
maining at Chagres over night.would be a forfeiture. 
The trunks of the steamers’ passengers, particularly those of 
the Crescent City, were landed on the bank of the river, while 
their owners were endeavoring to secure passage up. The 
