23»e RURAL NEW-YORKER 
93 
The Home Dressmaker 
(C'omimu'd from page S9.) 
tion. aiul t'lJl skirts laid in a box ploat 
in tin* niiflill'' "f iln- t)ii<-lv and front, tin; 
Tf-nnind.'r of tli(‘ skirt being gatlit'r<><|, 
Jikc a fliild’s coat. Around flic waist 
!«cani are two cords, covered witli tlie 
cloth, a knot Iteing tied in tin' cords for 
onianiont at e.acli side of tlie jdeated 
l»anel. The rather loose sleeves have a 
deep gauntlet cnIT. and tliere is a deep 
loosely fitting cape that comes down al- 
jaost to flu* waist line. 'I'lie model seen 
\\as mustard cedored velours with a caja* 
of miis(|nash fnr. Imt capt* c(dlars of the 
same material as tlu* coat are <d‘t<‘n seen, 
sometimes with a hand of plush or fnr 
arotiml the edge. Sometimes double 
cajies of graduated size ar(' seen on sm h 
coats. Such a <-o!it. covering the drc'-s 
entirely, is a useful style, ami is not 
outgrown in one s(':ison. Whil<( (‘spec'al- 
ly attractive in vehnirs, broadcloth or 
any dress woolen may lx* used, the 
light*'!' wi*ights hi'ing desii'ahle foi- 
Siti'ing. A young girl’s coiit of v<'loni's 
is often nuide of r.'ithei' hi'ight him*, 
green, miistai'd. Am<‘i'i<'an liejinty oi' hni'- 
gundy. one atti'active coat of this type 
being Americfin Iteiiiity vi'loni's. lined 
with flowered silk to niiitch. A r!ithi*r 
thin, snmll wom:in looks well in a <*oat 
with gatherefl skii't. The Init woi'ii with 
this coat is ii snmll shiijte covered with 
gjithered silk to match the coat. 
(!ii!1/s Dhkss ok Ciiallik. The little 
dress worn by the child in the centei' is 
a suitable style f(tr it gii'l of six to 12 
yejirs. It hits ii kilt-ph'iited skirt and 
ideated wiiist. with I'Oiind neck and at¬ 
tached hi'It; bishop sleeves g!ither<'d into 
a narrow <*nfr. 'riu* model se<*n was of 
French gray clmllie. The belt, the hand 
ai'ontrd the neck, and the culTs, wei'e em¬ 
broidered with red cherrie.s, done in 
heavy silk. 'J'his was the only trimming, 
hot it was vei'.v i)retty mid elTective. 
'I'he waist Wiis fastened invisibly, hut 
liiid a row of fbit crocheted silk buttons 
of the same color. 'I’he little hat is 
flexible gray straw with band and 
strings of nai'i'ow bbick velvet, there b<*- 
ing a little bunch of chei'ries In fi'ont. 
W'liiTR Flax.nkl.—'I’ lic girl at the 
right in this group wears a frock of 
white .shrunk flannel, trimmed with ma¬ 
chine stitching. 'Phis stitcl ing has b<*<*n 
revived as a trimming, jind we see end¬ 
less I'ows of it on sonu* of the new im¬ 
ported di’esses. 'I’he skii't of this dress 
is made with <i yoke at back and siiles, 
and a panel front. 'I’he skirt is gatheri*d 
<111 to the yoke, with a heading .standing 
lip like a frill about an iiu-h and a half 
deeji. tin* frill being caught down at 
fhrec-lnch intervals, so as to give a scal- 
lopi'd api)<*aranc<*. (In each side is a 
gatlu*r<*d pocket, put on lev<*l with the 
yoki*. 'J’he plain waist has sleeves gath- 
I'l'ed into a de<*p pointed cull', tin* <‘ul'f 
being cov<*red with rows of maebini* 
stitching about half an inch ajiart. ami 
trimmed with a row of jiearl buttons, 
put on diagonally. 'I'lu* iu‘<'k is cut 
oval, and has a littb* collar standing 
up like a f<*nce. one of the fashions often 
seen this season, the collar opening Ix*- 
ing finished with rows of stitching. A 
semi-cir<'iilar shield of the material, cov¬ 
ered with iiuu'hine stit<'hing, stands up 
abovi* tin* belt in front, the tx*lt being 
stitched also. Closing is down the front, 
without visible fastening. 'The hat is a 
plain wide shaiie of American Heaiity 
straw, with a trimming of black velvet 
laid in cross straps. 
Skwixc l{oo.\r SrccK.STiox.s.—Some 
of our friends always stitch around the 
tops of their new stockings on the .sew¬ 
ing machine, just at the edge of the hem 
or double top. 'I’lmy say this prevents 
“ladder.s” from running down the stock¬ 
ing if a thread is br(d<en by the siiyi- 
porters. 
When making a house dre.ss to be worn 
at regular work a woman who wears her 
dresses badiy under the arms will do 
well to re-enforce that part of the waist. 
A si'nii-circular piece like a dress shield, 
but considerably larger, .should be stitch¬ 
ed in place, the right side toward the 
out.sl(le of the waist, so that if it wears 
through the under portion shows the 
light side of the goods. 'A .similar re- 
<'nf<irccnieut at the under side of the 
sleeve at the toji. will al.so save patching 
lafrr. If corset covi*i's are worn, a sim¬ 
ilar shield of the riiat<rial stitched be¬ 
low th; arni-hole will lx* a gi'< at .saving 
to the gaTim nt; the ready-made niu.slin 
brassiere.s are ri*enf(U'ci <1 in this way. 
'I’he.se ready-made garments do not have 
the raw edge of the shield turned under; 
it is fas(<*m*d down with machine her- 
ringboning ov<*i' the raw edge. Thi.s 
iu'ev<*nfs a ridge from showing through 
thin mat<*i'ial. a sugg<>.stion worth bear¬ 
ing in mind in home sewing. 
After culting a number of garments 
from a piece of long-cloth or nains(»ok, 
one somefiim's has r<*maining a piece that 
is just foo short f<ir a nightgown or 
chemise. 'Phis cun be us('d economically 
by culting tin* garim-nt with an empire 
top. 'Pile lop is joined to tin* lxxl\ of 
the garment with bemling- or insertion, 
the lower part beuig slightly gullu*red. 
An emiiire top with V necl*,giv<'s an op¬ 
portunity to use the long triangular 
ires that an* left after sloping out the 
sidc.s <if the garments when cutting. Four 
triangles, cut the right siz<*, form the 
emiiire top. the garment b<‘ing sleevcb-ss. 
An attractive garmi*nt may Ix* made by 
using allothi*r material, siu'h as a fine 
cros.s-bai' muslin, foi' the lop, jiml this 
gives an opjiortiinity to ii.s** small ]ii<'ces 
h*ft ov<'r from making a whit** dr<*.ss or 
waist. AVlu'i'*' a fine soft mati'i'ial is 
thus us('d. the lu'ck and sleeve edgi's may 
be roIle<l, ami a picot edge crochet***! di¬ 
rectly on tin* mat**rial. 'Phe little “mile- 
a-miniit*'” edgings are d**sii'able for this, 
and such small pi**<-es of mat*’ri!il are 
convenient “pi*k-up” work. 
Si’Uixci M A ri':niAi,.s.—'Pin* imw dress 
cottons ai»p**ar while ev*'ryone is wear¬ 
ing their lie.-ivy Winter garm**nls. for 
tlu'y art! displiiyed as soon as ('hristmas 
gootls art! removed, !in*l ajipear sid*! by 
sidti with llow<*ry straw hats ami gay 
liai'asols intemled f«u' Southern w«*ar. 
'Plm voile.s are pnit.lier than ever; flow¬ 
ered designs, Spanish dice checks, bal¬ 
loon S))ot.s, military stripe.s, window- 
jtane checks, ami (’hinese tlesigns*. 'Phere 
ai't* solid-colored voiles, too, that make 
up admirably, and there is great variety 
of color from 2;") cents a yard up. I.in- 
ens are not chenp, either for dress or 
household use, Imt we recently saw a 
sale of extra heavy granite weave Ib'l- 
gian linen for o.S cents a yard, -IS inches 
witle. 'Phe colors inclmled helititrope, 
violet, white, gray, tan, brown, leather 
and rose pink. It is a very practical 
idan to make :i little girl's cojit *if such 
linen, in any Ix'coniing color, for wear 
*iv**r thin whit** *lri'sse.s wh**n driving in 
Summer, as it look.s iirelty, and protect.s 
th** little dri'ss wlmn *1 living. 'Ph**re are 
some attractiv<* “sports silks” that are 
not really the pro*luct of the silk-worrn, 
but are “fibre silk,’’ ami while tiu'si! were 
made primarily for sjiorts costumes for 
South**!'!! and Sunum*r wear, th**y will 
un*loubt*‘*lly lx* popular for other styles 
of costume. I’rinled shantung in bright i 
colors on a neutral gr<mn*l, ami all sorts; 
of bright sha*l**s ar<* shown, and a gixxl 
many warm shmh's of yellow, whi*’b re¬ 
mains v*'ry iiopular. .7i*i'sey <'lolh is 
again ixipiilar, soim? n**w wejiv*‘S b**ing 
lu'onounced less slri'ti-hy than the first 
slyle.s. One skirt ami coat bloiis** of 
bright blue j**rs**y cloth seen in a Fifth 
.\v*'nu*! sho|> was trinum*d with eni- 
lu'oidi'ry of the same color b*)i'<I**red by 
narrow bamls of bluish white silk iilush; 
it was just like th** rath**r easily rough- 
ene*l soft plii.sh li.sed, 25 years ago. to 
trim ('hrislmas car*l.s. Shrunk flaiim*! in 
white ami bright colors is ofl'*!r**d for 
separate .skirts and coats. 
Proportion of Dressed Meat 
AVe have had *|uite a littb* correspon¬ 
dence lately from people who want to 
know the proiiortion of salable meat 
which is left aft*ir animals are slaught- 
(*r«*d and dressed. A numix*r of adv**rtis(*- 
nients have appeared lately from tlie 
large jiackers, which nnd**rtak** to tell on 
what a close margin they work, ami what 
a small proportion of b**ef ami jiork th<*y 
really obtain from the live animals. 'Phe 
lat**st figures on this matter which have 
come to us are from the North Dakota 
Fxperiment Station. I’rof. AV. II. I’elers 
makes the _ following statement with re¬ 
gard to this matt**!'. 'Pher** is e\ i*l**ntly 
considerable variation in *liff(*r**nt ani- 
niahs, but probably this stat**nient is not 
far from the av**rag**. 
“In the case of tin* hog the hi*le is left 
on and also tin* lieml, while with sheep 
and cattle tin* hid** am! hea*l and f«*et are 
r**moved. 'i’h**y also have proportionally 
more intestines than the hog, ami large 
paunches, and an* not us thick fleshed. 
'Phe dre.ssing percentage of hogs varies 
from ()5 to So per cent., with an averag** 
of 75 per cent, (’attle vary from -IS per 
cent, to 70 jier cent., with an averag** of 
55 per cent. She<*p dress out -I I iicr cent, 
(o 10 p*r cent., with an avu'iage of -l.S p(*r 
cent. 
I 
Buy from one source—have all your material arrive at ono 
time— Hvobl fre<iu**nt, Imtliersome trljis to town! Deal di¬ 
rect wltli tin* produc*'!'. <let aroumi the lilgli cost of 
bulldiiin’. I lodge tin* e\orldtaut prices—compounded pro- 
lit.s—extra Inlior- c\l ra v:i;;a ul waste—ami teilions tielays 
of tin* ol*l I'jisliioned m**tlnxl. 1 iivestigat.'i this newer, blit¬ 
ter, *]uickei' syst(*m. 
LEAA/IS-BUILT HOMES 
Mnchinc-Cut-to-Fit 
are the result of mod(*ru **irniein'y metluxls. Write for 
catalog of loo hous(*s, <iittages, liuiigalows; make your s**- 
Icctioii— lln*n w** ship complel** house direct to .vou', rea'ly- 
ciit, with all mal**i'ials compicic, at factory price. 
Modern Method of Home Building 
Afachine ciil ting *sav**s -tO',; cari)f*nt**r labor. Xo waste. 
Xo il<*lays. t:v<'rytbing furnlsb(*d for compl(*te house - 
lii'st-grad<* uuit<'rials througluuit. Free jilaiis ami iiisi ruc¬ 
tions. S<*mi postage for <*atalog of lioor jilans, pictures 
au*l prices, (.tlso Homo Fnrnisliiiigs Catalog on repuest.) 
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