■Ghe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
119 
RURALISMS 
Walnut Scions 
Will you tell me when to cut scions 
and buds for English walnuts. E. J. 
Hornerstown, N. J. 
Scions of all kinds of nut trees 
should be taken while dormant. The 
best time for this is probably just be¬ 
fore the buds begin to swell. The scions 
should bo kept as nearly dormant as pos¬ 
sible until wanted for use. As soon as 
cut they should be put in damp moss, 
sawdust or soil, and placed in the ice¬ 
house or refrigerator until the stocks 
have made leaves about one-fourth their 
full size, when the grafting should be 
done. The sap is then flowing freely, 
which makes the chances of success 
much more certain than if done when 
the stocks are dormant, or just as the 
sap commences to flow. The writer has 
found it advantageous to paint the 
scions with liquid grafting wax after 
they are set. This prevents evaporation 
of moisture from the scion, and no doubt 
saves many that w'ould otherwise die if 
this were not done. 
Buds should be cut at budding time, 
which may be any time from .July to 
September. August is probably the best 
time for budding nut trees. K. 
Nut and Fruit Varieties 
(live me two names of good pecans, two 
of chestnuts, two good varieties of grapes 
(one each of black and clear), two good 
early and two good late varieties of 
apples .cherries, peaches, and one apricot. 
I am thinking of grafting my own fruit. 
Where can 1 get my seedlings? Can I get 
seed and plant them to grow my seed¬ 
lings? How can I save apple and pear 
seed ? w. V. 
Tennessee. 
The following nuts and fruits are spe¬ 
cially recommended for the South, and 
will no doubt succeed in Tennessee: 
Pecans, Indiana. Niblack; chestnuts, 
T’aragon, Numbo ; grapes, (’oncord. Green 
Mountain (white), I.utie (red), native 
Southern grape; apples, early. Yellow 
Transparent, Duchess; late, I’aragon, 
Stark’s Delicious; cherries, Black Tar¬ 
tarian, Royal Duke, Montmorency, .sweet, 
Montmorency, sour; peaches, early. Belle 
of Georgia, Greensboro; mid-season, El- 
berta ; late, Salway ; apricot. Superb. 
Seedlings of all kinds of fruit and 
hardy nut trees can usually he purchased 
of any large nursery firm making a spe¬ 
cialty of fruit trees. Send for a copy of 
The National Nurseryman. i)ublished at 
Rochester, New York, which carries the 
advertisements of a number of firms deal¬ 
ing in fruit tree seeds, stocks, etc. 
There is no difficulty about saving pear 
and apple seeds if you can get them. The 
writer’s father was a nurseryman, and 
used to go to the cider mill for his apple 
seeds, the pomace was ])laced in tubs of 
water and ftfirrrd until the seed wa.shed 
out and dropped to the bottom. The pomace 
was then skimmed off, and the remainder 
of the contents of the tub was then poured 
through a riddle with meshc's tine enough 
to catch the seeds. They were then thor¬ 
oughly dried, and placed in perfectly dry 
suul until late Fall, when they were 
sown in beds, in rows about a foot apart, 
and mulched with line manure. If there 
is a cider mill handy you can procure 
your apple seed in like manner, but if not 
it will be almost a necessity to purchase 
them, except when only a small quantity 
is desired, they may be taken from the 
fruit by hand and saved in the manner as 
given above, K. 
Propagating the Fig 
Will you give the full method of pro¬ 
pagating fig trees? We have a tree 
which bears very large figs and wish to 
increase the stock. How can I cut them 
to best advantage, and what size should 
cuttings be? When should they be 
planted ? A. B. 
Crisfield, Md. 
The fig roots very readily from hard¬ 
wood cuttings, and by layering. In the 
regions where figs are successfully grown, 
the usual method of propagation consists 
of cutting a branch when in proper con¬ 
dition and plunging it in the ground to 
a depth of six or eight inches where the 
tree is to stand. It will soon strike root, 
and grow as thiuftily as if it had al¬ 
ways had roots. The cuttings should in 
most cases be taken in Autumn from ma¬ 
ture wood, and in the northerly sections 
they should be handled in the same man- [ 
ner as grape cuttings. The cutting 
should be cut just below a bud, and may 
be made five to six or more inches long. 
They may be placed in the soil in a 
cold frame or other place where they 
can be protected (when necessary) from 
frost, leaving only the top bud exposed 
above the ground. Or the cuttings may 
be tied in bundles of 25 or so, and bur¬ 
ied in a warm well-drained spot of 
ground, with bottom end up, covering 
them just deep enough to be safe from 
frost, where they remain until the fol¬ 
lowing Spring, and are then to be plant¬ 
ed in the open ground as soon as the 
weather becomes settled and warm. 
When only a few young plants are to 
be propagated, layering is in most cases 
the best means of securing them. This 
is done when the plant is in active 
growth, and only branches that can be 
readily bent to the ground can be used. 
This method of propagation consists of 
cutting half way through the branch 
from the underside at the point where it 
comes in contact with the ground when 
bent down, making a tongue-like cut and 
slanting toward the top of the branch. 
Open a little trench three inches or so 
deep, lay the branch in, peg it down with 
a peg sufficiently strong to hold it down; 
and of material that will last several 
weeks under ground, placing the peg 
back of the cut. Now bend the top up¬ 
ward until it is nearly perpendicular. 
This will spread the cut apart and at 
the same time leave sufiicient connection 
with branch to sustain the layer until it 
sti’ikes root. The layers can be severed 
from the tree the following Autumn, and 
removed to permanent quarters. K. 
Sowing White Clover in Orchard 
I 
I have a young orchard two years old. ' 
which I wish to seed to White clover. ' 
AVhen is the best time to sow? Do you 
advise a nurse crop? I get goo<l .stands of 
Alfalfa with canning factoi’y peas as a 
nurse crop. Would you recommend such 
a nurse crop for White clover? c. ir. s. 
Chillicothe, O. 
White clover may be sown quite suc¬ 
cessfully any time from Spring up to 
midsummer or later, but early Spring, as 
soon as the ground is in good tillable con¬ 
dition is, all things considered, the best 
time for sowing, as the weather is then 
cooler, and the young plants have the 
advantage of the early Summer rains. 
Usually this plant does not require a 
nurse crop, as the seed, if fresh, grows 
very readily and the plant is very persi.s- 
tent when once it gets a good start. If 
the sowing should have to be made after 
Summer weather has fairly set in, it 
might be w'ell to sow some such nurse 
crop as peas; they will do no harm, and 
may be very beneficial, particularly if 
the weather should be hot and dry while 
the clover is at the infant stage of growth. 
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