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246 
S IX A. M. for the big 
man of business — 
who knows the 
luxury of ample time — 
who’s up before duty 
insists. Try Big Be^n in 
the business of living. 
Set him a little ahead. 
There’s success in his 
wake. With mind alert 
you’re on good terms 
with a new day. 
You’ll like Big Ben 
face to face. He’s seven 
inches tall, spunky, 
neighborly—downright 
good. 
At your jeweler’s, $2.50 iii 
the United States, $3.50 in 
Canada. Sent prepaid on re¬ 
ceipt of price if your jeweler 
doesn’t stock him. 
Western Clock Co. 
La Salle, Ill., U. S. A. Makers of Westclox 
Other Westclox: Baby Ben, Pocket Ben, Bingo, 
America, Sleep-Meter, Lookout and Ironclad 
Buy Direct from the Importer 
Sectional DoubleWall $ 
BUNGALOW 
W RITE FOR illustrated Catalog of Camps, 
Tenant Houses, Garages and Contractors 
Ilouses. Above price is for 10x12 house, without 
porch. Built in units, on the sectional book^case 
idea. Expands with your needs. Can be quickly 
erected by two unskilled men. Readily taken 
down, moved and set up any number of times 
I without injury. Double walls w’ith air space be¬ 
tween insure protection .from heat and cold. 
Inside and outside walls emoothly ceiled 
with matched lumber. Attractive, 
comfortable, eomvlete. Portable, 
but looks permanent. 
SCOTT LUMBER CO. 
Box 35 Norwich, N.Y. 
Estab. 1853 
■mill. 
lE have books on 
all subjects of 
farming by rec¬ 
ognized authorities. 
Write us and we will 
quote you prices 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 West 30th Street, New York 
TShe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
The Home Dressmaker 
Ax Attractive Voile. —In the first il¬ 
lustration, the figure at the left shows a 
rose-colored cotton voile, very simply 
made, yet stylish and becoming. The 
model had a straight gathered skirt with 
a deep hem and three four-inch tucks, two 
being together about 10 inches from the 
hem, and the remaining one about 10 
inches higher*. The waist is pei*fectly 
plain, and could be cut from any plain 
waist or blouse fastening down the front; 
it is attached to the skirt, which has an 
invisible placket opening at one side. 
The only trimming is a Marie Antoinette 
fichu of fine white voile, edged witli a 
one-inch knife pleating of the colored 
voile. This fichu is cros.sed in front, and 
is knotted at the back, where it falls in 
long sash ends. These ends are rounded, 
and are edged all around with the pleat¬ 
ing. The plain sleeve has a loose cuff of 
Avhite voile edged wiith the colored knife 
pleating. A band of black velvet one 
inch wide runs tlirongh large buttonholes 
in the center of the cuff, tlie ends of the 
velvet hanging loose. Another dress made 
in the same style was voile with narrow 
stripes of red and white close together. 
This model is very easy to make, and 
would be pretty and becoming, not only 
in wash goods, but in silk or thin woolen, 
with a fichu of (Georgette crepe. 
A Skirt axd Blouse.—T he figure at 
is new and pretty. This blouse, made of 
fine white voile, has a group of fine tucks 
down each side, and also lengthwise of 
the sleeves, which are finished with a 
deep cuff turning back at the edge. The 
front has inserted a little square chemi¬ 
sette with three buttons and buttonholes, 
so that it can be opened for convenience 
in slipping on ; there are also three but¬ 
tons on the edge of the collar at each side. 
This is a pretty blouse for any thin mate¬ 
rial ; sometimes the little chemisette, 
Avhich may be rounded or square, is pin- 
tucked or muslu’oom-pleated. or embroid¬ 
ered. The little hat shown has a crown 
of stitched velvet and a straw brim, the 
only trimming being a little wired bow of 
velvet. 
IlAlXBOW Stripe-S. —There are nmny 
bordered materials among the Spring 
goods, and the figure at the left, in the 
group of three, shows how such material 
may be made up. In this case the full 
width of the goods is used for the gath¬ 
ered skirt, and a separate piece is then 
attached as a tunic: leaving a space in 
front like a panel. The tunic has one or 
two stripes of the border turned up in the 
hem, so as to narrow the border a little. 
The plain waist has a vest of cross¬ 
stripes, running down into the girdle, and 
a collar of stripes also; the vest is fast¬ 
ened with ball buttons. The sleeves, 
• February 17, 1917. 
shoulder to the hem at both sides, in back 
and front: they were stitched flat to yoke 
depth. The front was cut up in a square. 
Three ball buttons were fastened with 
loops at the top, the remainder of the 
fastening being invisible. Deep gauntlet 
cuffs and a rolling collar of the striped 
border finished the coat. This same 
model suggests an idea for modernizing a 
taffeta suit, by using striped silk in place 
of a border, and it would also be attrac¬ 
tive for linen or cotton gabardine. An 
odd style of trimming seen on some suits 
is quilting in old-fa^iioned designs, and 
we sometimes see a suit of the style illus¬ 
trated with .skirt and coat trimmed in this 
way, a band of quilting around the bot¬ 
tom of the skirt, and collar and cuffs of 
the coat to match. The hat worn is one 
of the ne^y Chinese straws, very light in 
weight, trimmed with picot-edged ribbon. 
^ For The Growing Girl.-— At the right, 
in this group, the little girl shows an at¬ 
tractive model suitable for a variety of 
materials. As seen, it was of dull blue 
taffeta with a sash of gold-colored satin. 
The full skirt had a panel of kilt pleats 
in front. The little jacket blouse came 
down in pointed tabs at each side, being 
cut np_ in both back and front so as to 
show the sash, which pas.sed around the 
waist, and was then knotted in a baya¬ 
dere .sash at one side of the panel. The 
front of the waist came over in a rever, 
fastened with three silk-covered buttons 
at the top, and invisible fasteners below. 
The sleeve was a loose bell shape with a 
band cuff which left the fullness to fall 
open at the side. The round collar was 
of Irish crochet, this attractive and dur¬ 
able lace being in favor again. The hat, 
of gold-colored straw, had a blue facing, 
and was trimmed with a blue velvet cord 
and a bunch of field flowers. This little 
dre.ss might be made up very prettily in 
two materials of the s<ame color, such as a 
woolen skirt and silk waist, and it would 
also be very attractive in linen. 
Sprixc, Materials. —Very gorgeous are 
many of the new goods shown eaily to at¬ 
tract Southern tourists. Especially no¬ 
ticeable are silks and cotton goods printed 
in showy designs in contrasting colors. 
Some of these are like Chinese and .Tap- 
ane.se emblems; some imitate Balkan and 
Russian embi-oideries, while the newest 
and most original cop.v the primitiye 
Maya designs of South and Central 
America. These designs are seen in the 
heavy cottons made for sports skirts, as 
well as in a variety of silks. There are 
also plaids and block checks, a sort of two- 
toned block check being seen in these 
goods, and also in voiles. Two-tomnl 
green block checks on a white ground are 
especially pretty. White tussah silk 
combined with printed or embroidered 
Maya designs in several colors is shown 
in dre.sses and blouses, and Maya scarfs 
are used to trim sjiorts hats. The dress 
cottons are strikingly attractive, especially 
the voiles, of which we see some e.vtra 
fine weaves. Periwinkle blue and canary 
are favorite colors; others are Aztec tur- 
qnoi.se, Mexican gold, {^outh Sea Is!";:d 
green and tangerine. Striped materials 
for sports .skirts are usually a combination 
of gorgeous colors without white, instead 
of the bright stripes on a white ground 
that were favored last year. One skirt 
noted was inch stripes of navy blue, dark 
mustard and old rose made into a plain 
paneled skirt with deep kangaroo pockets. 
There are vei*y attractive new ginghams, 
in large and small checks, tartans, stripes 
and plain colors, the fine dress ginghams 
running from 18 to 60 cents a yard. For 
children’s suits and rompers kindergarten 
cloth is advised; this is a member of the 
gingham family, but much firmer and 
stronger; it ranges from about 19 to il8 
cents a yard. Ginghamette, which come.s 
in plain colors only at 25 cents a yard, is 
a soft fine lightweight weave. jNIadras, 
at .80’ to 60 cents a yai*d, includes plain 
colors, white and many delicate stripes 
and figures, “Sports silks’’ are usuall.v 
fibre instead of real silk, and some of 
them are mixtures of wool or cotton witli 
silk, but they are charming in color and 
design. Paisley designs are seen in all 
sorts of materials, but many of the gar¬ 
ments made from them are not reall.v 
stylish in appearance, and we hardly rec¬ 
ommend these fabrics to those who must 
consider economy in dress. Jersey cloth 
is shown in all colors, both plain and 
figured, and is very fashionable; chamoi- 
sotte, with a soft, A-elvety finish, is an¬ 
other material much in faA'or, and there 
are soft lightweight woolens of a coarse 
hop-sacking weave that make up very at- 
tractivel.v. ('ottou velours comes in all 
colors for separate skirts and suits. 
Spring IMillinery.—W hile straw hats 
were seen on the New York streets early 
in .ianuary, most of the new hats worn 
were of the between-seasons typo, silk or 
satin, often with straw brims or facing. 
'There were many small toques, with a 
high, flat crown, often with a high feather 
straight in front. Sport hats, intended 
for Southern wear, are often of miisli- 
room shape, but Avith .square-topped 
croAvn, and there are many just about the 
shape of a small boy’s hat, Avith straight 
drooping brim and square crown, the only 
trimming a band of gros-graiii ribbon. 
YelloAV really seems the most popular of 
all millinery colors; it is seen in citron, 
canary, gold and mustard. The small 
street hats that repeat the Winter styles 
appear largely in black, dark broAVU and 
deep blue (not navy), but there are many 
in shades of purple and gray. The sport 
hats of silk, cloth and straw are still 
trimmed Avith coarse embroidery in aa'ooI, 
Two Suggestions for Bordered Material, and a Pretty Juvenile Model 
the right in this illnstratiou shoAvs a sep¬ 
arate skirt and slip-on blouse. The skirt 
was of cotton sports suiting or gabardine, 
Avhite Avith a pattern of large rose-colored 
.spots having two smaller spots, in tAVO 
shades of blue, b.y each large one. It Avas 
a plain gored skirt Avith a panel front, 
and two graduated straps or pocket-flaps, 
so cut as to shoAV the Avhite portion of the 
goods only. The shorter strap is orna¬ 
mented Avith three pearl buttons. The 
plain Avide belt, stitched on each side, has 
in the center a uarroAV strap of the mate¬ 
rial, .so cut that only the rose-colored spot 
shoAvs like a narroAV stripe at intervals. 
The blouse figured is a “slip-on’’; that is, 
there is no opening doAvn the full length 
of either back or front. This slip-on 
shape is seen in many ucaa* models, and 
gatliered into a deep cuff' Avith hall but¬ 
tons, haA*e a turn-back cuff of the striped 
border. The original model Avas gold- 
colored pongee Avith a boi*der of broAvu, 
green and purple, but there is much va- 
riet.v in these bordered goods, and the 
borders are not all striped; there are 
mau.v printed patterns like all-over em¬ 
broidery, and some Avoven like brocade. 
A goo(l many bordered voiles ere seen, 
and these Avill make up very prettily. 
A Lightaveigiit Jacket Suit.—T he 
suit AA'orn by the central figure Avas of 
mode-colored jersey cloth Avith a border 
of green and yelloAV stripes. The iilaiu 
skirt had a panel front Avith a group of 
kilt pleats at each side, and also at the 
back. The straight semi-fitting coat had 
groups of flat pleats extending from the. 
