«26 
RURAL NEW-YORKER 
March 3, 1917 
This proves, more powerful than words, the great 
pulling power of the Chalmers. A short time ago a 
big steam hammer arrived at the Chalmers works. 
It weighed in excess of 30,000 pounds. After it was 
unloaded from a freight car it had to be moved to a 
building a quarter of a mile away. A Chalmers 
chassis, just finished, was taken from the factory and 
a towing rope attached. Several times the rope 
broke and the steel rollers placed under the hammer 
were crushed like eggshells. The Chalmers, however, 
hauled the load with ease, and the hammer was in 
place in an hour. 
Specifications 
Engine—6 cylinders, bore 3/4 stroke 4)4 ins., piston displacement 224 cu. ins* 
Power—45 h.p. (on the brake test.) Starter—Westinghouse 2 unit. Carburetor— 
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Stewart-Warner vacuum system. Ignition—Remy distributor, Willard 80 ampere hour 
battery. Tires—32 x 4, chain tread on rear. 
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Per Rod Ut 
Carnation Growing 
(Continued from page 312) 
Beacon is probably the most extensively 
grown. Several new scarlets of last sea¬ 
son’s introduction look promising, Avia¬ 
tor, a brilliant shade, free bloomer, has 
a rather weak stem, while Belle Wash¬ 
burn has an excellent stem bright color 
and large flower, but will not bloom as 
freely. 
Propagation. — Carnation cutting 
should bo propagated from January 1 till 
March 1. Use clean, sharp sand. We 
change sand for each batch of cuttings 
inserted. We find best results where the 
bottom of bench has ample drainage, the 
boards being spaced %-in. apart. About 
two inches of cinders are placed upon the 
bottom and three inches of sand on the 
top. After cuttings are inserted they 
should be watered daily for first week, 
and second week every tw’O or three days, 
after which time they require very little 
water or none at all. The sand should be 
quite dry when cirttings are removed. 
Shade them from the sun in some manner 
the first two weeks, then allow the sun 
gradually to shine on them until the roots 
show 14-iuoh of growth, when they should 
have full sunlight. Remove from sand 
when roots are about %-incb long, as they 
become weakened if allowed to remain in 
the sand after fairly well rooted. 
Potting and Setting Out. —We use 
sterilized soil without manure to which 
one-fifth sand is added for potting. We . 
use 2-ineh or 2i/4-inch pots or 1%-inch 
square dirt bands, as described in The R. 
N.-Y., page 07. Plants are hardened the 
same as described in the article on asters 
here referred to. They are planted in the 
field April 15 to May 10, according to the 
season, and will not be Injured by a light 
freeze if properly hardened. We plant 
12x12 inches, others plant eight inches in 
rows with the rows 15 or 10 inches apart. 
Wie endeavor to cultivate after each rain, 
and once a week during very dry weather. 
Plants must be topped as soon as any 
shoots grow out to five or six joints. We 
usually aim to top in such mai-iier that 
four good breaks will develop on each 
shoot after being topped. 
Planting Under Glass. —Successful 
growers usually plant on benches in the 
house though a number plant direct into 
the solid beds. The solid bed is cheapest 
to maintain, but is not so ea'-y to work, 
nor will it allow as free growth during 
midwinter. Later in the season, though, 
it is easier to keep plants in good growing 
condition upon solid beds than on a 
bench. Soil is usually prepared a season 
in advance, either by piling up and com¬ 
posting sod and manure in layers, or 
plowing dov;n a heavy coat of manure. 
The proportion usually is one part ma¬ 
nure to about four parts sod or. soil. This 
soil is used on benches or in the solid beds' 
to a depth of four or five inches. The 
bench bottom boards should be placed %- 
inch apart and straw or strawy manure 
placed on bottom to retain soil. The 
plants are brought inside from August 1 
to September 15, August 15 to September 
1 being the popular period. The glass 
should be shaded before plants are brought 
inside, which shading should not be al¬ 
lowed to remain on the glass after the 
plants are established, which is usually 
two weeks later. We used whiting, ap¬ 
plying it to the inside of the glass. 
Care Under Glass. —Each time a car¬ 
nation plant is transplanted, great care 
should he taken that it is not placed 
deeper in the soil than where it had been 
growing. Planting a little deeper each 
time often induces stem rot. After plant¬ 
ing we water the bench or bed thoroughly, 
after which no water is used until the 
soil shows signs of becoming slightly dry. 
Soon as plants become established water 
whenever the soil shows a little on the 
dry side. The carnation does not require 
as much water as some other plants. We 
try to get the supports in place soon as 
possible after planting. We stretch wire 
lengthwise of bed between each two rows, 
and run either a piece of twine or raffia 
crosswise between each row of plants. 
The wires should have a support each 1(» 
or 20 feet. We use four tiers of wire and 
string each about six inches apart. 
Insect Enemies. —Do not wait until 
you see red spider or greenfly on the 
plants. They are sure to put in an un¬ 
welcome appearance in a short time after 
the plants are in the house. If the plants 
are kept in a healthy, vigorous condition 
and do not suffer any cheek from trans¬ 
planting. very little trouble will be ex¬ 
perienced with red spider. thorougli 
spraying with water under a strong pres¬ 
sure should clean up plants that are not 
badly infested, though we do uot spray in 
Winter unless absolutely uecessary. The 
foliage of the carnation should be^ kept as 
dry as po.ssible at all times. We ajiply 
water to the soil underneath the plants, 
and have no sjiider in our regular carna¬ 
tion houses wlau'c the plants have not 
been sprayed this season. For greiui fly 
we use comiiiereial fumigators, about two 
to three times as strong as recommended. 
Spraying with nicotine solutions, using. 
1 % ounce to three gallons of Avater is a 
cheaper, though equally efiicaeious rem¬ 
edy. We use tobacco smoke before plants 
are iu bloom. 
Further Treatment. —Remove all 
side buds when large enough. Wlnui cut¬ 
ting flowers it does not pay to try to get 
an extra long stem by cutting too near 
