"iShti RURAL NEW-YORKER 
427 
The Coming of Spring. —With the 
shops full of voiles and other cottons 
that are within reach of a modest purse, 
it is well to study some of the attractive 
models in more expensive materials that 
are displayed at this season. In the first 
illustration the charming little gown 
shown at the left was of French gray 
crepe de chine, trimmed with black satin 
with rose-colored lining, but it is just the 
thing to make up cotton voile of solid 
color, gray or taupe, and it would be very 
desirable for a slim girl or small woman. 
sash ends to show the rose-colored lining. 
At each side of the skirt was an applied 
trimming like a simulated pocket, which 
carries out the new skirt outline, flat in 
back and front, and fuller over the hips. 
This trimming was simply a piece of 
black satin, wider at the center than the 
ends, lined with rose-colored satin, and 
then folded into a boxed corner at the 
center, so that the line up the middle, 
where it was attached to the skirt, looked 
like an inverted pleat. The outer edges 
were not stitched down, so that the rose- 
Spring Models in Crepe de Chine and Voile 
Another color combination that would be 
attractive is sand or mode, trimmed with 
African bx’own satin, lined with citron, 
.Shadow Lawn green, or vivid blue. The 
plain gathered skirt is very straight in 
outline, with a two-inch tuck around the 
hips which gives the appearance of a 
tunic. The plain waist opens over a vest, 
and this opening is continued in a nar¬ 
row oval below the girdle, which shows 
the white Georgette crepe that formed 
the vest and collar. The waist was quite 
plain, edged along the vest, and also the 
opening in the tunic, with simple em¬ 
broidery in black. The sleeves were 
plain, but were given a bell .shape by hav- 
colored lining showed; there were eight 
small rcse-colored buttons put in two 
rows at the bottom. The hat was a wide 
shape of smooth rose-colored straw 
trimmed with black velvet and satin 
flowers. 
A Combination op Voile. —The dress 
shown at the right in this picture was 
white voile trimmed with figured voile, 
Copenhagen blue with a design of black 
and rose blocks. Any solid color could be 
used with a figured material that har¬ 
monized. The same idea might also be 
used in making over an old dress of white 
linen, combining it with French percale 
or other good figured wash goods, for a 
A Slip-on Dress, and Two Juvenile Models 
iug narrow, sloping gores of black satin 
extending from wrist to elbow. These 
gores were lined with rose-colored silk, 
and the rose-colored lining was continued 
around the edge of the sleeve as a facing 
about one inch broad, which showed 
through the gray material. There was 
also a row of black embroidery around 
the edge of the sleeve and four small 
rose-colored buttons on the e<lge of the 
black satin gore. A girdle of black satin 
lined with rose color crossed the vest in 
front, being sloped up to look like a 
waistcoat; it had four rose-colored but¬ 
tons across the waist line in front, and 
the ends, which were narrower, were tied 
in a knot at the back, leaving the loose 
nice white linen wears so well that it is 
worth making over when it looks old- 
fashioned. The plain gathered skirt had 
two deep bands of the figured voile. The 
plain waist had a plastron in back and 
front of the figured goods; it was fast¬ 
ened on the left shoulder and down the 
left side of the plastron, the white collar 
being of the circular shape that stands 
up all around. The white sleeves had 
flare cuffs of the figured material, and 
the only other trimming was a flap like a 
cavalier pocket coming down from the 
waist line on each side, over the hips. 
There were pearl buttons on cuffs and 
pocket flaps. 
A Slip-on Dress. —The dress at left. 
in the second illustration, has one pecu¬ 
liarity ; there is, apparently, no way for 
the wearer to get into it, for it has_ no 
closing or fastening of any kind. It is a 
.slip-on dress, all in one piece, put on over 
the head, but the open collar gives room 
enough to get into it, and it is loose and 
flaring, like a coat, being held in place 
by the broad separate belt. This dress, 
seen in a high-class New York shop, was 
made of taupe jersey cloth. It was 
trimmed on collar and cuffs, belt and 
skirt, with rows of black machine stitch¬ 
ing, close together. The broad band of 
stitching on the skirt, also collar and 
cuffs, are edged with black picot braid. 
The belt had a long rectangular buckle 
of gun metal. This is a vei*y smart 
gown of the newest mode, but extremely 
simple and practical. The idea could be 
used for any soft lightweight woolen, 
such as challie or wool taffeta, but is not 
advised for linen or any fabric that will 
wrinkle, as it is sure* to show creases 
after slipping on. The slip-on idea is 
very fashionable both for dresses and 
blouses. The small hat is of citron cater¬ 
pillar straw, with a facing of citron silk 
and ribbon band of the same color; in 
the front is a fancy bead ornament in 
shades of blue and green. 
For the Littlest Girl. —The little 
girl in the center is wearing a frock of 
fine blue linen with sash, collar and cuffs 
of white dotted swiss, the dotted Swiss 
sa.sh being a decidedly novel idea. The 
skirt is gathered on to a yoke coming 
down to form a tab in front; the sash is 
fastened under this tab, and looped lower 
at the back. A short placket in the front 
of the yoke, extending part way down, is 
the only closing, this being a slip-on style 
also. The round turn-down collar and 
turn-back cuffs are of the swiss. 
White Voile. —The girl’s dress at the 
right was made of fine white voile, the 
short-waisted little bodice, rather like a 
deep yoke, being tucked. The closing ex¬ 
tended the depth of this short waist, but 
had no placket below, as the high belt 
was large enough for the dress to be 
slipped over the head without trouble. 
The trimming on collar, cuffs, belt and 
skirt was Irish crochet insertion, edged 
on each side with a narrow frill of the 
voile. This makes an extremely pretty 
trimming, but we hesitate to recommend 
it for a washing dress, because that nar¬ 
row frill must be done up with a crirhp- 
ing iron, and it takes entirely too much 
time. The idea, however, is a good one 
for a girl’s challie dress of solid color. 
It could be made just like the dress fig¬ 
ured, with bands of braid, gimp or fig¬ 
ured material, edged on each side with a 
narrow black silk pleating. Such pleat- 
ings come readymade, and there are 
stores in most towns, where the work is 
done to order; in New York one may 
have narrow knife pleating done beauti¬ 
fully for two cents a yard of the plain 
material, hemmed by the customer. 
Dress Accessories. —All sorts of 
Chinese and Hawaiian jewelr, trimmings 
and dress ornaments are in fashion, and 
one sees wonderful designs and colors 
among them. There are patent leather 
belts decorated with Chinese beads; metal 
girdles, gilt or silver with antique finish, 
decorated with flat, richly colored Chinese 
ornaments; patent leather belts trimmed 
with crochet work and embroidered rings, 
and beaded girdles made abroad. Deads 
are used to an extravagant degree, a 
great many beaded ornaments being used 
in hat trimming. In neckwear, we see 
many trimmings of the new “Shadow 
Lawn” green, chiffon being the usual ma¬ 
terial. Sailor collars of white washing 
satin or chiffon are seen edged with an 
inch hem, hemstitched on, of green chif¬ 
fon, or a collar of the green chiffon is 
edged with white, sometimes Venise or 
filet lace, sometimes a hemstitched hem. 
In buying the less expensive neckwear, 
however, it is always wise to avoid lace, 
because any machine-made imitation lace 
at once betrays its cheapness, whereas 
plain hemstitching does not. A pretty 
vestee seen was of white wash satin with 
plain sailor collar of the satin, ovei'laid 
with another collar of green chiffon. The 
vestee was fastened with flat buttons, 
about the size of a quarter, of white satin 
covered with green chiffon. The chiffon 
collars are seen in a variety of colors, as 
well as green, and a last year’s dress of 
plain dark silk might be rejuvenated by. 
using a white satin collar overlaid w’th a 
collar of colored chiffon, and then alter¬ 
ing the girdle so as to include some bead 
ornament that would repeat the color of 
the chiffon. 
Young Girls’ Blouses. —Girls’blouses 
are made in sizes 32 to 36, and a small 
slim w'oman often finds herself better 
fitted with these than, with regular 
women’s models. In suits and coats, 
too, a small woman can often find herself 
fitted without alterations in the misses’ 
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Baby Bumps Doll 
The doll with the grown¬ 
up grin. Has Unbreakable 
Head and Hands, Jointed 
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Cork. Dressed in Rompers, 
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