Zr>ic RURAL NEW-YORKER 
593 
A Summer Gown. —In the fir.st illus¬ 
tration the dress at the left will be 
found an adaptable model for a variety 
of materials, and very simple in the mak¬ 
ing. The original model wa.s white 
Georgette crepe, with collar and cuffs of 
white embroidered chiffon, but it would 
be very desii-able in voile or thin silk. 
It is a good model for the young girl’s 
white voile dress. The plain gathered 
skirt has four two-inch tucks, at inter¬ 
vals above the hem; the top tuck ceased 
at a panel in front, formed by an 8-inch 
box pleat, the remainder of the skirt be¬ 
ing gathered at the wmist. The panel 
is formed by a narrow separate breadth, 
the join being hidden under the pleat; 
this allows the omission of the one tuck, 
the others running acro.ss the panel. Any 
tucked skirt pattern could be used for 
this dres.s. The waist is perfectly plain, 
fastening acro.ss at one .side as though 
double-breasted. Across the front are 
four groups of tiny pin tucks, three in 
a group; on each side of the group of 
tucks was a ball, about the size of a 
marble, of pearl beads, hanging on a 
little bead chain about an inch long. 
This is a pretty idea in trimming, much 
newer than button.s, and can be adapt¬ 
ed to other materials. There was no 
other trimming except the deep collar 
and cuffs and a .sash of picot-edged rib¬ 
bon tied with double loops in h'ont, the 
ribbon being about an inch and a half 
wide. The hat shown is a wide shape of 
shiny black straw, having a fold of 
green chiffon around the edge of the 
brim, and a band of green picot-edged 
rbibon, with a bunch of fruit in front. 
For The Gike. —In the same 
picture, the little girl’s dress is white 
iiiomie weave linen, trimmed witli blue. 
The style is merely the usual plain wai.st 
with a pleated skirt, but the trimming 
made it "something different.” The lit¬ 
tle waist wa.s closed straight down the 
front, having two rows of buttons fas¬ 
tened by loops of white cord. There was 
no skirt-placket. The trimming consist¬ 
ed of four rectangular flaps of the mate¬ 
rial, two in the back and two in the 
front. The.se were embroidered with a 
design in blue, and bordered with blue 
blanket stitch. Each flap was finished 
with two little blue tassels at the lower 
corners. The flap.s in front were pock¬ 
ets, sure to give pleasure to the small 
wearer; those iit the back were merely 
ornament. The scpiare collar, ourved 
out in front, «ind the bands on the 
sleeves were embroid(*red in blue, like 
the other trimming, 'riiere was no belt, 
but a piping of blue at the seam joining 
skirt and waist. This was a very pretty 
dress, and the same idea may be adopted 
more formal gown by wearing the waist 
to_ match. 'The waist, as seen in the 
original model, had the ujFper part of 
(le.sh-colored net, merely a plain blouse 
with tucks over the shoulders; it was a 
slip-on opening with a shdrt flat placket 
in front, just enough to give room to 
slip over the head. The round neck had 
a flat box pleating of the net, headed 
with a baud of blue silk embroidered in 
flesh color, the little placket being fin¬ 
ished in the same way. The lower por- 
Summer Frocks for the Big and Little Girl 
tion of waist and sleeves was brought up 
over the net in a series of small battle¬ 
ments, with a small crocheted button of 
flesh-colored silk, .and a few embroidery 
stitches in each battlement. It was 
really a simple waist made striking by 
the way it was put together. The hat 
was a. wide shape of dark blue Chine.se 
straw, having twisted around it .spirally 
a long iride.scent quill. 
SIMPUICIIY IN I’ONGKE.—The Central 
figure shows a simple pongee dress fas¬ 
tening in the back. The skirt is very 
I»lain, but has a novel style of pocket. 
A Barrel Skirt, a Suggestion in Pongee, and a New Smock 
in other materials besides linen. A fig- 
lired iiiaterial might be used in place of 
the embroidery with g<jod effect. 
A IUrkkl Skirt.— In the s('cond il¬ 
lustration, the figure at the left shows 
the fashionable barrel skirt, now .seen in 
tailored suits, .separate skirts and c<).s- 
tunies. _ As shown, it is a three-piece 
skirt, joined horizontiilly at the center, 
the lower part narrowing slightly to give 
the barrel effect. ’J'he horizontal j(nn is 
"hooped” with a band of the goods cov¬ 
ered with rows of machine stitching. 
The belt is akso covered with machine 
.stitc-hing, and there is no other trim¬ 
ming. The wai.st shown with it is sep¬ 
arate. The original model was a com¬ 
bination of flesh-colored net with blue 
Georgette crepe, but by using, for the 
lower part of yoke and sleeves the same 
inateri.'il as the skirt, one could combine 
this with any Summer-weight material, 
and make it look like a one-piece dress. 
As separate skirts of taffeta are in vogue, 
one could wear thin lingerie waists with 
a taffeta skirt, and then make it into a 
The pockets on each side are cut in one 
with the frout gore, sloped so that they 
are smooth at the bottom but full 
enough to ripple slightly at the top, the 
fullness being held in by a button and 
buttonhole in the center, at the top. The 
waist, which is joined to the skirt, is a 
plain blouse with droiijM'd shoulder, the 
sleeve gatlu'red into tin* long shoulder. 
.\n embroidori'd band is brought around 
the armhole, so that it gives the effect 
of, a pinafore blouse over a guiinpe. The 
blouse had fine tucks run across the top 
like a yoke, and was finished at the neck 
with a round band of dull blue, braided 
in black and twine-color»“d soutache. 
The bands around the armholt*.s, cuffs 
and belt, are of the blue silk with the 
soutache braiding. This dress would be 
attractive in linen or heavy cotton, as 
well as pongee. 
The TJ.sefui. Smock.— This season the 
useful smock is still wtih us. not only in 
linen, Japanese crape, etc., but also in .silk. 
The model shown at the right was white 
pongee. Its most novel feature is the 
square panel of pleats, which form a 
plastron in front, and also at the back. 
This wa.? bordertvl with a band of the 
material, the smock being fastened un¬ 
der this banding, at the left .side. The 
model seen had a line of embroidery 
around the edge of the bauds, with flor¬ 
ets in lazy dai.sy stitch at the corners, 
and around the neck. The cuffs, cut 
with a deep battlement at the back, have 
a_ little embroidery along the edges. The 
girdle, in the original model, was a flat 
ribbon of small beads, woven like those 
bead chains and fobs often made on a 
small loom, and finished with tassels. 
Beads are so much in vogue now that 
they can be used in all sorts of ways, 
and one may often utilize some piece of 
beadwork long laid a.side. The skirt worn 
with this smock is made of figured 
sports suiting, and the wide shade hat 
is covered with the same material. This 
year many informal sports dresses are* 
made of silks and other thin materials, 
which .seems rather absurd when they 
become ornate and perishable, but sports 
.styles are_ u.sually becoming, and being 
originally intended for country w’ear, the 
farm girl can plan some dresses of this 
style, and feed that .sensible country 
clothes may be fashionable too. She 
should have wash skirts, both white and 
figured, smock.s, blouses and a pretty 
sw’eater, all selected with an idea of "go¬ 
ing together,” and her shade hat should 
match the rest of her sports clothes. 
This does not suggest an extravagant 
wardrobe, but _ one selected with ideas 
of taste and fitness. And there is no* 
reason why a country girl should not 
wear a "sports dres.s” when going to the 
express office with a case of eggs, in the 
farm "motor-of-all-work,” just as well as 
the idle city boarder. She will wear her 
clothes a great deal more happily when 
she feels that they are becoming and up- 
to-date, though inexpensively made by 
her own indu.strious hand.s. 
Note.s on Materials. —Linen in the 
coarse Gossack weaves is admirable for 
suit.s, and is seen in many colors at 59 
cents a yaj'd, Gotton poplin in sports 
stripes is_ t.)9 cent.s^ a yard; it comes in 
broad stripes of vivid coloring, such as 
green and bhu-k, orange and black, blue 
and black, etc. These materials are 
made into pleated skirts, black being on 
the upper side of the pleat, so that the 
.skirt looks black with a gleam of color in 
the fold. There are also colored plaids 
in the.se poplins and gabardines at 09 
(•cuts a yard, that look like woolen 
fabrics. |Silk and cotton poplins, at 
•lil.JT a yard, are printed in sports pat¬ 
terns, while there are attractive self¬ 
colors at JH cents. Voiles run from 19 
to (9 cents a yard, the newest among 
the more expensive oik's .showing "con¬ 
fetti” colorings; that is, they are printed 
or embossed in small disks of brilliant 
coloring, like jiaper “confetti.” The.se 
confetti patterns often consist of two 
disks close together, of different colors. 
Shattered at intervaks, as geranium and 
soft blue on a white ground. An attrac¬ 
tive bordered material is white cotton 
etamine with a wide border of colored 
checks, raised like Turkish toweling; 
this costs 49 cents a yard. Silk and cot¬ 
ton crepe de chine at 45 cents is very 
attractive in many color.s, including black 
and smoke gray. _ The printed voiles in¬ 
clude clo.se challie patterns; there are 
pretty and serviceable styles patterned in 
gray 'and navy blue. The newest ma- 
teriiils are the “rookie” fabrics in various 
shaij^'s of tan and khaki, including storm 
serge, surah serge, French twill serge, 
imperial serge, Poiret twill and trico¬ 
tine. The.se fabrics are 42 to .54 inches 
wide, and cost from .$1.10 to .$.‘1 a yard. 
The Season’s Millinery. —"Burnt” 
feathers are a fashionable new trim¬ 
ming, often used to bonier a hat, 
form a wreath around the brim, 
trimming is said to be composed of goose 
feathers, burnt in some way so as to re¬ 
move all the fluff', leaving curving 
threads almost like spun glas.s. Some¬ 
times a mass of these burnt feathers 
covers the crown, looking, to the casual 
observer, rather like the headgear of 
Kipling’s “Fuzzy-wuzzy.” Among girlish 
styles there are small cloche shapes, hav¬ 
ing the crown of li.sere and the brim 
covered with close ruffles of narrow rib¬ 
bon, the only trimming being a band of 
gros-grain ribbon, with a small bow and 
(Continued on page 595) 
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