Xahe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
711 
The Home Dressmaker 
Standabdizixo Clothes. —Rome earn¬ 
est souls are suggesting that these anx¬ 
ious times, all women should wear the 
same style of garments, adopting some¬ 
thing of uniform type, that might be 
manufactured by wholesale. The fact is 
that readymade garments are already 
standardized, and as one walks about the 
city, women of all ages, sizes and con¬ 
ditions of life dress in clothes of simi¬ 
lar .style, only varying as to the expense 
involved. With the advance of democ- 
rac.v, sumptuary laws, such as prevailed 
in the middle ages, have become an ab¬ 
surdity, but many sensible people feel 
pie. of hat.s, boots, stockings, gloves, and 
veils should be avoided. 
“It is essential not only that money 
should be saved, but that labor employed 
in the clothing trades should be set free.” 
Cate Coats. —Capes of all sorts are 
very much in style this Spring. There 
are sports capes of velours de laine, ro.se, 
jade, taupe and gold, black serge capes 
lined with white, which are handsome 
and effective, and others of blue lined 
with polka-dot foulards. The newest de¬ 
velopment is the cape with coat or waist¬ 
coat front, such as is figured at the left 
in the second illustration. This is rather 
Three Pretty Models for the Younger Generation 
the need of limiting extravagance, both 
in time and expenditure, and for this 
purpose various societies have been 
formed to encourage a more rational 
view of personal adornment. At the pres¬ 
ent time no sensible woman need wear 
foolish clothes on the plea of style, for 
there are plenty of comfortable and ser¬ 
viceable garments that are pretty and 
styli-sh too, and a visit to any great 
New York shop will assure one of this 
fact. The tailored suit with separate 
blouse is as serviceable as a man’s 
clothes, and the one-piece dress means no 
constriction of waist or chest, and all 
weight hanging from the shoulders. 
However, the following little sermon, 
which appeared on one of the British 
like a variation of the Inverness cape 
long popular for men’s wear in Great 
Britain. As shown, the cape may be 
thrown back to give freedom of move¬ 
ment, or closed for greater warmth. This 
model was blue serge, lined with white 
foulard having,large blue coin spots. The 
straight under-jacket had a narrow sash 
belt of the material, and there was a 
high Puritan collar of white pique. This 
was a very practical wrap, especially 
for country wear and driving, and is 
now an extremely popular style that will 
retain its usefulness. While such a gar¬ 
ment is expensive to buy, it is not be¬ 
yond the skill of a home dressmaker, es¬ 
pecially if it is properly pressed by a 
tailor, whose heavy irons give results 
Two Practical Styles; A Cape Coat and a Coat Dress 
War posters recently exhibited in New 
York, might be remembered by us all in 
our nation’s time of stress. It w'as 
headed “Bad Form in Dress,” and read 
as follows: 
“The National Organizing Committee 
for War Savings appeals against extrav¬ 
agance in women’s dress. 
‘Many women have already recognized 
that elaboration and variety in dress are 
bad form in the present crisis, but there 
IS still a large section of the communi¬ 
ty, both among the rich and among the 
less well-to-do, who appear to make little 
^^^^t^ence in their habits. 
New clothes should only be bought 
absolutely necessary, and these 
should be durable and suitable for all 
occasions. Luxurious forms, for exam- 
beyond the power of a domestic flatiron ; 
however, it is figured more as a sugges¬ 
tion of what is now seen among popular 
garments. The little military toque worn 
by this figure is black lacquered chip, 
with a little plume of burnt feathers; the 
skirt is a plain model in black and white 
check. 
A One-piece Dress. —The figure at 
the right shows a plain dress of the coat 
style, buttoned all the way down the 
front. The original model was of sand- 
colored pongee, but it would be suitable 
for linen, cotton or light-weight woolens. 
The plain waist had a group of tucks at 
the shoulder, which were let in, the waist 
being plain below. At the bottom of the 
tucks on each side was a little panel 
simulating a patch jjocket of old blue 
silk, with a little pattern embroidered on 
it in black. The collar turned back in 
revers of the same material as the dress, 
while the deep square portion at the 
back was of the blue silk. The plain 
skirt had a panel of pleats let in at each 
side, with a rectangular trimming of the 
blue silk at the top, to match the simu¬ 
lated pockets on the waist. The buttons, 
going the full length from neck to hem, 
were covered with the sand-colored pon¬ 
gee, while the buttonholes were bound 
silk. The plain sleeves 
close at the wrist with 
buttons and blue silk 
was of black patent 
worn by this figure is 
with the blue 
were buttoned 
pongee-covered 
loops. The . belt 
leather. The hat 
one of the popular sailors with rolling 
brim, of lacquered chip, trimmed with 
black and blue corded ribbon. 
Fob The Growing Girl. —In the 
group of children, the girl at the left 
shows how effectively tucking m.ay be 
used as trimming. The dress itself is 
a pattern very often seen; merely a 
plain little waist, and straight skirt laid 
in pleats at back and front, and gathered' 
at the sides. It is made something dif- 
fm-ent, however, by thC trimming, which 
is tucked bands of the same material. 
The dress seen was of taffeta ; the waist, 
cut square at the neck, had a deep yoke, 
while the lower portion was formed of 
the tucking, joined with a cording. The 
sleeves, and the bottom of the skirt, were 
also trimmed with bands of tucking, hav¬ 
ing cord covered with the silk at top 
and bottom. There was a narrow girdle 
of the silk, brought around in a hanging 
knotted sash at the front. The neck 
had a little square tucker of white oi’- 
gandie, with a hemstitched edge, which 
made a very pretty finish. This tucking 
of .silk suggests an excellent trimming 
when making over worn materials, for a 
piece of taffeta that has started to cut 
may be tucked so as to disguise the worn 
places, and combined with challie or 
other soft materiiil. such as voile of solid 
color. Indeed, we have known the taffeta 
of a worn silk petticoat to make a sur¬ 
prising good appearance, after pressing 
and tucking, where the color was just 
right for combination with other mate¬ 
rial. 
A Dainty Little Frock. —The small 
girl in the center of the group shows a 
simple little frock th.at could be copied 
very prettily in sheer material, such as 
organdie or batiste. The original was 
Georgette ci’ape in pale flesh pink. The 
sleeve.s and yoke were cut all in one, 
kimono style, the straight little .skirt be¬ 
ing joined directly to the yoke. The 
skirt had a panel of side pleats in front 
and back, with a box pleat about an inch 
and a half wide at each side of the panel. 
.V sash of iiicot-edged ribbon, an inch 
and a half wide, was pas.sed through a 
slot under each of these box pleats, 
slightly confining the panel of side pleats, 
but without otherwise drawing in the 
(li’ess at the waist, the ribbon being 
loosely tied at the back. The original 
Georgette crape di-ess was very attract¬ 
ively trimmed with .satin roses and beads 
but of course this would not be practical 
for a wash dress. There were little pink 
s.atin I'oses with green leaves at the 
fi’ont of the round neck, on the edges of 
the sleeves, and across the panel of 
pleats at the bottom, the remainder of 
neck, sleeve and skirt edges being fin¬ 
ished with !i row of small pink beads. A 
little frock of wash material could be 
trimmed, if desired, with pink roses em¬ 
broidered in pompadour stitch, Avhich is 
very quickly done; a sort of chain stitch 
done in a close spiral round and round, 
so as to make the round flower, leaves 
being added, if desired, in lazy-daisy 
.stitch. The little hat worn by this figure 
is a small shape covered with pink-flow¬ 
ered silk, faced under the bidm with old 
blue, and with a trimming of picot- 
edged blue ribbon tied in front. There 
is a piping of blue where the silk is 
joined around the crown. This is a very 
pretty hat, and one that may be made 
(juite inexpensively. 
Rimpijcity in GiNGH.\jr. —The child 
at the right .shows a plain little frock of 
gingham that is both pretty and prac¬ 
tical. It was blue and gray gingham, 
with a double box pleat in both front 
and back, and was buttoned all the way 
(Continued on page 71.5) 
CoaNTy.N.j. 
'A FARMER'S LAND OFHIDDEN TREASURE. 
A GOOD FARM, A GOOD MARKET, EASY 
TRANSPORTATION, AND-PROSPERITY 
IS BEFORE YOU! 
A GOOD FARM:— 
Cape May County is famous as a good 
farming country. Rich soil, capable of 
raising fine crops of sweet potatoes corn, 
tomatoes, asparagus and almost any variety 
of garden vegetable. Peaches and other 
fruits, strawberries, etc. 
A GOOD MARKET 
A score of popular seashore resorts form 
a ready market for every description of 
produce. 
EASY TRANSPORTATION 
These resorts are all within easy access 
from your farm, while good transportation 
is provided to Ph ladelphia and other large 
cities. A number of choice locations will 
shortly be offered for sale. 
For full information write to 
F. W. FOWKES 
Clerk to the County Beard of Freeholders 
SEA ISLE CITY, N. J. 
[? 
Your chance is in Caiiiida. Rich lands ami 
bnsine.ss opportunities offer you independence. 
Earin lands $11 to $30 acre; irrigated lands, .$3.T 
to $50. Twenty years to pay; $2,000 loan i.i Ini- 
provements, or ready made funns. Loan of live¬ 
stock. Taxes average under twenty cents an 
acre; no taxes on luiprovenients, personal i)rop- 
erty or livestock. Good markets, churches, 
schools, roads, telei)hones. Excellent climate— 
crops and livestock prove it. Special home- 
seekers’ fare certltieates. Write for free book¬ 
lets. ALLAN CAMERON, General Superinten¬ 
dent Land Branch, Canadian Pacific Railway, 303 
Ninth Ave., Calgary, Alberta. 
ProfitMakingFarm Locations 
IN THE SOUTH 
with lands at low cost, giving best opportunities 
for live stock, dairying, general or special farm¬ 
ing. Healthful and most prodmuive climate: 
scliool facilities. Facts prove Southern lands 
are most profitable in country. Printoii jnutter 
on request. M. V. RICHARDS, Commissioner, 
Room 87. Southern Railway System, Washington, U. C. 
NEW YORK STATE FARMS "o'fpoRTuWs 
Tell us what kitid of farm you want and 
how much ciish you can pay down, and wo 
will prepare purposely for you a list of just 
such places in many parts of the State. 
THE FARM BROKERS' ASSOCIATION. Inc., ONEIDA. NEW YORK 
Other offices throuKhout the State. 
Hydraulic Cider 
Press Profits 
Thirty years’ experi- 
ence enables us fo. 
f rive you all the' 
n' 
Write for 
rj. FR£E 
^LS^klet 
n formation y uu 
need for cider making. 
E.B. VAN ATTA & CO.. 103 Penn Ave.. Olean. N.V. 
Also 
^-u Boilers, 
Engines, Sawmills. 
_ y Painter Says ~ 
Bmcms GLOS^AINT 
COVERS DOUBLE THE SURFACE OF CHEAP PAINTS 
^ Of»o/nAf>f 
I 
IF you want books on farming 
any kind write us and we 
will quote you prices 
of 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 West Thirtieth Street, New York 
CONTOUR^' 
2 for 30c 
Arrow FORM-FIT 
T A ID C CURVE CUT 
W JuJLfuTAXA. >3 ASSURES EASY FIT 
AND FAULTLESS SIT 
_ CLUETT, PEABODY & CO., INC.y TROr, M T. _ 
