RURAL NEW-YORKER 
991 
The Home Dressmaker 
Cartridge Pleats. —The figure on thfe 
left, in the first illustration, shows the 
use of cartridge pleats, which have been 
among the newer features in both dressces 
and separate skirts. It is simply a plain 
straight skirt, finished at the top with a 
heavy cording. In both front and back a 
section is left plain to give a panel effect, 
the remainder of the skirt being joined to 
the waist in a series of close flutings 
that give the effect of a soldier’s cart¬ 
ridge belt. In the back the plain panel 
is about four inches wide, and has six 
small^ silk-covered buttons across the 
top; in the front there are two deep pock¬ 
ets, outlined with'silver lace. The model 
figured is of dark blue taffeta, and the 
silver lace is held in place by outline em¬ 
broidery in dull green and rose silk. The 
pocket at the left is not really a pocket, 
however, but the placket, being underlala 
with a deep fold of the material which 
opens out enough to give room for put¬ 
ting on the dress. Plackets are disguised 
in all sorts of ways these days, and 
where it is merely a flat opening without 
any overlap a sort of accordion fold un¬ 
derneath is necessary to prevent gaping. 
The waist of this dress is perfectly plain, 
with long coat sleeves; the little trian¬ 
gular vest is corded, not with separate 
cords laid on, but run through the mate¬ 
rial, and is bordered with the silver lace, 
the waist fastening along the left side ot 
the vest. The collar and cuffs are hem¬ 
stitched handkerchief linen. While this 
dress was a woman’s model, the same 
style could be used very becomingly for a 
half-grown girl, and the cartridge pleats 
are very pretty for children’s dresses and 
short-waisted coats. The hat is a wide- 
brimmed model of black satin, the brim 
edged with Georgette crepe, and a flaring 
band of the crepe wired to stand out 
around the crown. In separate skirts, we 
sometimes see the cartridge pleats brought 
up to form a high girdle, about three 
inches deep, finished at the bottom with 
a cord, so that the skirt is shirred below 
the pleats. 
8and-colored Voile. —The figure at 
the right in the same picture shows a 
model that would be very becoming to a 
plump, matronly wearer, for the long 
straight fichu gives slender lines to the 
figure. This dress, of sand-colored cotton 
voile, had a gathered skirt, with four 
tucks, three-inch tucks at top and bot¬ 
tom, and two 1%-inch tucks between. 
The waist was plain, having one-inch 
frills down each side of the front closing. 
The long pointed fichu, brought under the 
girdle, was edged all around with a frill 
of the same material, the plain bishop 
sleeve being gathered into a cuff, bor¬ 
dered with frills at top and bottom. The 
same model would be very desirable for 
a plain taffeta dress, the fichu, and, if de¬ 
sired, the sleeves, being made of Geor¬ 
gette or crepe de chine of the same color. 
There are no dresses for elderly women 
these days, for all ages wear the same 
styles, but this model is both dignified 
and becoming, and if the Collarless effect 
is not desired a net tucker or high guimpe 
could be added. 
Make-overs. —All three dresses for 
the younger generation, shown in the sec¬ 
ond illustration, are make-overa At the 
left is a brown taffeta which, before it de¬ 
scended to the twelve-year-old girl, be¬ 
longed to an elder relative. The straight 
skirt, laid in side pleats, except at the 
front, where it "was left plain to form a 
panel, was made from the original skirt. 
The plain waist closed in front, the 
placket being at the side of the panel in 
skirt. Cros.sed panels of the silk, edged 
all around with a heavy cording, started 
at the waist line in the back, and extend¬ 
ed lower in front, the upper tab being 
fastened over the placket with a snap fas¬ 
tener. There was a cording at the waist 
and the cuffs were edged with a cord, 
being finished, like the tabs, with silk- 
covered buttons. A white organdie 
guimpe,_ with wide collar, and folds of or¬ 
gandie in the sleeves, finished the dress. 
While the real reason for the long tabs 
extending over the skirt was the worn 
condition of parts of the material, the ef¬ 
fect was good, and followed an expensive 
model. 
All-over Embroidery.—A child’s dress 
of handsome all-over embroidery, which 
the little wearer had long outgrown, was 
combined with pink organdie to make the 
little dress shown in the center. The 
embroidery was cut to form a loose jack¬ 
et, extending in square tabs at the sides. 
The gathered skirt was attached under¬ 
neath this jacket, the round neck and 
elbow sleeves being finished with frills 
of the pink material. Three large pink 
buttons were put near the edge of the 
jacket in front, and four at the back, 
where it was closed invisibly. This same 
idea could be used very acceptably with 
plain and figured woolen or silk, the 
combination of two materials, neither of 
them new, often giving really handsome 
results. 
A Sleeveless Jacket. — Sleeveless 
coats and sweaters are now very stylish, 
and the same idea may be used in com¬ 
bining two materials. The figure at the 
right wears “an old white linen dress,” 
but, unlike the heroine whose story is 
told on another^ page, the wearer has 
made it over with a sleeveless coat of 
green ratine with yery stylish results. 
Two yards of ratine will make the coat, 
which is of the plain sweater syle. The 
skirt is left separate, the old - waist 
supplying sleeves, collar and a tucked 
vest. The coat is plain in the back, the 
front left open, being filled with a tucked 
vest of the linen, the collar being loose 
and rolling, while the turn-back cuffs are 
of the green ratine. The coat has flat 
pockets joined into a seam, and a broad 
flat girdle fastened by three buttons with 
bound buttonholes. Heavy linen, gabar¬ 
dine, or any heavy cotton material may 
be used to make such a coat in com¬ 
bination with white linen. The knitted 
sleeveless jackets are now very popular, 
taking the place of the ordinary sweater, 
most of them being of the slip-on style. 
Economy in Home Sewing 
I have been much interested this even¬ 
ing in reading an article on “Making Gar¬ 
ments at Home,” page 653, and am glad 
to add to the writer’s testimony on the 
saving made in this way, the saving of 
everything but time. If one but has the 
time—“aye, there’s the rub.” I do not 
think it pays if the time must be taken 
from one’s needed hours of sleep. 
I am working now on dresses for my 
two children, three and five years old. 
The following is the cost of material: 
10 yards of pink chambray, 10c per 
yard . 
% yard of lawn 
yard . 
for collars at 25c per 
Buttons . 
Thread .. 
Patterns. 
Total.$ 1.75 
This material made three dresses and 
two pairs of bloomers for my five-year-old 
girl. The bloomers readymade are worth 
40c apiece and the dresses at least $1; I 
have paid more. Total .$3.80 or a saving 
of $2.05. 
10 yards of cadet blue chambray at 
16e per yai’d .$1.60 
1^4 yard of Indian Head for trim¬ 
ming at 16e per yard.24 
Thread and braid.12 
ly^ dozen buttons at 5e per dozen.. .08 
Patterns ..30 
Smocking pattern.10 
Thread for smocking. .03 
Elastic ribbon.09 
Total.$2.56 
This material made one dress with 
bloomers, five-year size, value $2, and 
three boy’s suits, three-year size, value 
$1.50, a total of $6.50, thereby saving 
$3.94. 
3 yards of checked gingham at 60c 
per yard.$1.50 
% yard of lawn at 25c per yard.12 
114 dozen buttons at lOc per dozen. .15 
Thread .05 
Elastic ribbon.02 
Thread for smocking.03 
Total ..$1.87 
This made one dress with bloomers, 
five-year size, value .$4, a saving of $2.13. 
All of this material is guaranteed not 
to fade. It is decidedly impractical to 
buy any other kind. By making these 
garments for my children I saved in all 
$8.12, which seemed to me well worth 
while, since children’s clothes are expen¬ 
sive to buy, and homemade ones last at 
least twice as long. Florence Cornwall. 
A Cartridge-pleated Skirt and a Matronly Voile 
The COLT Carbide 
Lighting and Cooking Plant 
Has won the endorsement of 
25,000 users 
From these users we have received 
thousands of letters testifying that the 
“Colt” furnishes brilliant light for house 
and barns and fuel for the kitchen range 
at a LOWER COST than other light 
plants furnish light alone. 
These letters one and all tell of the 
economy and satisfaction of this double 
service, and of the permanency and 
reliability of the plant. 
Read for yourself this typical quota¬ 
tion from letter 279. 
Durham, N. C„ 
•.IT .r. Y , . . August 14, 191.5. 
Your Colt Lighting Plant is simply fine. I 
just would not be without it for any price if I could 
not get another. Our greatest enjoyment in the 
light 13 that it gives such a white light. Our eyes 
do not become strained by reading and we can read 
in any part of the room. 
“We have a hot plate and the cook (Mrs. Suitt) 
says it is one of the most convenient things she has 
ever seen. 
“We are well pleased with the J. B. Colt lighting 
system, and would feel ruined almost, if we had to 
get shut of it.:; s. m. SMITH. 
Don’t choose a Lighting Plant until 
you have investigated the Colt two-in-one 
service. Write for complete information. 
J. B. COLT CO., 42nd St Bldg., New York City 
7 
Dry Your Fruits and Vegetables 
on the time^tried economical 
“Granger” Evaporator ^ 
Do “your bit” for Uncle Sam 
and practice economy. 
^ What you don’t eat now, ■ _ 
save for winter meals. The “Granger” does it— 
easy to run, child can do it. Takes 
No Sugar. No Cans. No Jars 
Grangor Evaporated vegetables are 
wholesome and delicious. Evaporated 
fruits make wonderful doanerta, cakea 
and plea. The Granger la the simplest 
and moat economical household drier. 
Tested and approved bv U. S. Govern¬ 
ment and State Agriculture Depta. 
Thousands In use. 2 aizea, $6 Oeed 
on any stove. Write for FkEE booklet 
E—all about evapor¬ 
ating and the easy 
RETAILER S’ S Sc QUALITY 
COFFEE 
From Wholesaler Direct, fresh off the Roaster 
S POUNDS FOR 051 O C; 
Bean or Ground A. sSM 
delivered free within soo miles 
10 lbs. DELIVERED FREE 1000 MILES 
Satia/action Guaranteed or Money Refunded 
GILLIES COFFEE CO., 233-239 Washingtoo St, New York 
ESTABLISHED 77 YEARS 
% CORN 
' '■ 't v - a*- ^ b'V,t 
Kills Rats and Mice Harmless to Humans 
No Odor, . SEED, hardware. DRUG, general STORES 
The Werld and the United States At A Glance 
A Great Education 
At Your Fingers’ Tips 
This beautiful Wall Map, size 25x39 Inches. 
On one side we have a complete, up-to-the-mlu- 
ute map of the United States In bright colors, 
the Qapitols, Railroads, Rivers, large 
cities, etc. It also shows portraits of our 27 
Presidents, and gives their biographies. 
On the reverse side we have a map of the 
world, printed in a deep, ebony black. White 
and colored lines differentiate countries, rivers, 
lakes, cities and mountains. You never saw a 
map as black, as beautiful, as wonderfully en¬ 
lightening as this map of the world. From this 
you may in a single day learn more than you 
could In a year’s study of books. 
Contrasting with the ebony black of the map 
are the flags and the coat-of-arms of all nations, 
in their flashy, exquisite colors. Our own seven- 
teen flags are here in beautiful, bright colors— 
did you know that the United States had seven¬ 
teen different flags? 
And then, there’s that wonderful Bible Inform¬ 
ation. How many books, chapters, verses, words, 
letters does the Bible contain? How many books 
are classlfi^ as History, Poetry, Law, Prophecy, 
Epistles? Which books are exactly alike? How 
^**^^J**3®® name of our Saviour men- 
tloned? In how many languages Is our Bible 
published? 
Wouldn’t you want to know these things? 
A.nd wouldn’t you want to know the many, many 
other things this marvelous Map of Knowledee 
possesses? “ 
The Map will be sent, postpaid, for One Now 
Yearly Subscription, or Twenty 10-Week Trial 
Subscriptions, or Two Yearly Renewal Subscrip, 
tions. 
This book will not be given with subscrip- 
tions—-they are sent as rewards only (in place 
ot cash) to our subscribers and friends who, act¬ 
ing as agents, send us subscriptions as indi¬ 
cated. 
The Rural New Yorker, 333 West 30th St., N. Y, 
