B36« RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1451 
A P.ROAncLOTii Sot. —The suit shown 
■at the left in the first picture gives the 
prevailing slim outline; all the new skirts 
are conserving cloth, for they are much 
narrower than heretofore. The suit shown 
is very plain, merely a straight scant skirt 
and a coat of he Russian blouse style, 
fastened invisibly down the front. The ma¬ 
terial was broadcloth of battleship gray. 
The skirt of the blouse had a hem eight 
inches deep turned up around the front and 
sides but not around the back; this was 
left open at the top for a part of the 
space, so that it formed pockets. Both 
this hem and the broad flat belt were 
decorated with peasant embroidery, in 
heavy silk of dull green and pink, the 
pattern being 
stiff convention¬ 
al flowers a n d 
foliage. The belt 
was fastened 
with ball but¬ 
tons at each 
side. The close 
high collar was 
of black fill'. 
This would be a 
pretty model for 
a young girl’s 
suit, or for a 
street dress, 
with a blouse 
instead of an in¬ 
terlined coat. 
The emibroidery 
would be attrac¬ 
tive and stylish 
in wool instead 
of silk. The 
simple gray 
satin h a t worn 
with it is trim¬ 
med w i t h a 
band of Mack 
burnt feathers. 
A Modei. in 
C uKcK Vei.ours 
—The figure at 
the right shows 
a dress of gray 
and black check 
velours. The 
waist was perfectly plain, but had four 
quarter-inch horizontal tucks just above 
the waist, which, in the thick material, 
gave the effect of cording. The five 
buttons, extending from the upper tuck 
to the waist line, were dark gray, ball 
shaped. The wai.st seam had a cording 
of red silk. The skirt was perfectly 
plain; closing up the front, with five ball 
buttons near the hem. It was trimmed 
with slipper-shaped pockets, corded all 
around with the red silk; these pockets 
were made separate, not stitched flat on 
the skirt, but hung from the waist seam. 
The collar, one of the popular shapes, is 
of white washing satin ; the muff and 
large scarf are of seal-dyed musquash. 
The hat is a tailored model of folded 
broadcloth. 
l’.\xNK Vel¬ 
vet. — T h e 
dress at the 
left, in the 
second picture, 
was of panne 
velvet, t h e 
waist robin's 
egg blue, the 
skirt black. 
This w a s a 
very dignified 
dre.ss, and this 
style would be 
becoming to a 
rather large, 
over - grown 
young girl, as 
1hec(»ntrasting 
color of waist 
and ^ k i r t 
would lessen 
her Iheight. 
The waist was 
absol u t e 1 y 
jilain, b u t 
draped a little 
at the waist 
line. a n d 
hooked invisi¬ 
bly down the 
back ; the neck 
cut into a V in 
front, b u t 
without a n y 
collar except a 
little band of 
fur across the 
back. T h e 
long tight sleeves were trimmed with 
three bands of black velvet. The sti-aight 
scant skirt of black velvet had a small 
l)anel of the blue let in over the hips, 
this being trimmed with bands of the 
black velvet. These panier panels could 
Broadcloth Suit and Velours Gown 
matter of making over. For instance, a 
worn taffeta or foulard dress might supply 
material for the flounced skirt, with a 
jumper of woolen material, either plain 
or figured, and if desired a white guimpe 
could be worn with it. Often an old silk 
dre.ss that would not stand much wear if 
made up in other ways can be used for 
flounce.s, or as binding on ruffles of other 
material. A skirt of dark blue ruffles, 
having a little jumper waist of flowered 
challie, lighter flowers on a dark blue 
ground, would be very pretty. 
Ax Attractive Bix^use.— The figure 
at the right shows a separate blouse of 
taupe crepe Georgette, which was quite 
novel in design. It was slightly gathered 
at the shoulder 
seam in front, 
and had a four- 
inch band of 
fine horizontal 
tucks below .the 
arms. It was a 
slip-on shape, 
but had a short 
opening in front, 
fastened with 
small buttons 
which extended 
up the front of 
the high neck¬ 
band. A round 
E t o n collar, 
much deeper in 
the back than 
the front, flares 
out from the top 
of the high col¬ 
lar band; this 
had several 
rows of narrow 
tucks also. The 
blouse had a 
plain pepluin 
and belt trim¬ 
med with but¬ 
tons on each 
side of the front. 
The high stock 
with a flaring 
Eton collar at 
the top is a 
favor; we see some 
be made separate, like a peplum, but in 
the original they were let in. This would 
be an attractive model for broadcloth or 
velours, as well as velvet or velveteen. 
The hat worn with it is one of the toque.s, 
■now very popular, modeled in shape after 
the Rus.siau bride’s head-dres.s. It is 
made of black and golu b'^ocade, with a 
mu.squash brim, and a roll of fur above. 
A Little Girl in ITounces. —The 
original of the girl’s dress shown was a 
party frock of white Brussels net with 
1 pink satin jumper, but the style is so 
pretty that it suggests itself for .-t variety 
of materials, especially where it is k 
stylo now much in . , ...._..... 
very i)retty white voile blouses having a 
high Eton collar of striped voile, and 
turn-back cuffs to match. Such blouses 
are of»the tailored style, with long sleeves. 
The hat shown is a little tricorne of 
black hatter's i)lu_sh, with a twisted sil¬ 
ver ribbon, tied in a rosette, near the 
lowed edge of the brim. 
Sewing Room Hints. —Comfortable 
and well-set sleeves are often a difficulty 
for tjie home dressmaker. In dresses of 
the jumper type one gets good results 
from setting the sleeve in the lining, and 
allowing the outer material to drop over 
it. The sleeve runs well over the toj) of 
the arm and up-on the lining, so that the 
•inside material does not show when the 
arm moves. 
This giv('s i>ei-- 
fect freedom to 
the arm, and 
a well-fitting 
outline to the 
visible arm- 
h o 1 e. Some¬ 
times there is 
a band' of em- 
b r o i d ery or 
other t r i m - 
ming laid on 
the lining, .so 
that it shows 
when the outer 
m a t e r i a 1 
m o v e s aside 
with the 
sh'cve. 
-V girl’s 
frock of bot¬ 
tle green jer¬ 
sey clotlh was 
a t t r actively 
trimmed with 
collar and 
cuffs of cham- 
o i s - colored 
broadcloth. 
A popular 
style of collar 
made of wash¬ 
ing satin is a 
narrow shawl 
shape with 
ends that tie 
into a flat 
not. This 
style of tie col¬ 
lar is used to finish blouses and dresses. 
;Many collarless dresses. inst(‘ad of be¬ 
ing cut down in a V. have a shallow 
decolletage cut about three inches below 
the bend of the neck, and running out to- 
wards_ the point of the shoulder. This 
style is seen in jumpers, in afternoon 
dresses, and in informal evening <lr(‘sse.s 
Dress Accessories. —All sorts of beau¬ 
tiful scai'fs are in favor, woi'ii ovi'r the 
shoulders with evening or recejition 
dresses. Some of black or white tulle 
with flat silk fringe are quaint and old- 
fashioned looking, the white with black 
fringe, and the black with white. There 
are beautiful jetted .scarfs, and others 
decorated with soutache braiding. Bugle 
beads are also used as trimming, (uie 
white .scarf was trimmed with black and , 
silver bugles, another black scarf was 
trimmed with jet bugles. i 
Panne Velvet Costume, a New Blouse, and a Little Girl’s Frills 1 
traordinary degree, not only in trim¬ 
mings, but also in ornaments. There is 
great variety in jet necklaces, some with 
carved balls for pendants, some with flat 
plaques or lockets, and even carved cross¬ 
es, like^ the ornaments of 50 years ago. 
Real AVliitby jet ornaments are not cheap, 
but there are many imitations. 
Peautiful filet lace is now made in 
China. This lace remains extremely pop¬ 
ular, both the real and the imitation; 
many of the blouses, both cotton voile 
and silk, are trimmed with it, and it is 
freely used on underwear. 
hite pique collars are popular on 
young girl’s dresses of serge or other wool¬ 
en materials. Many gowns for older 
women have collars of colored Georgette 
crepe rather than white. 
Leather belts are used on tailormade 
suits and gowns. Young girls’ tailored 
cut on military lines, are finished 
With a “Sam Browne’’ belt of the type 
worn by British army officers. This belt 
strap going diagonally a'cross the 
shoulder, as well as the belt around the 
Waist, and is very jaunty in- effect. 
Iland-knit collars and cuffs of shaggy 
wool are offered for use with jackets, 
gowns and s'weaters, ‘being made in a va- 
I'lety of fashionable shades. 
Umbrellas of colored silk seem more 
popular than in former seasons—blue, 
green, red or purple, the straight sticks 
mounted to match, and finished with strap 
or silk loop. 
Millinery. —There are many close lit¬ 
tle hats of silk and metal brocade, with 
fur trimming. One striking little toque 
was of bnck-red brocade with a few 
threads of gold, with a brim of nutria fur; 
another was of gold brocade bordered with 
beaver. Borne rather barbarous looking 
hats, though all black, are trimmed with 
monkey fur. A very striking large hat of 
black satin had a rolled brim edged with 
a fold of tulle; the only trimming was a 
bird of Paradise appliqued in silver. Vel¬ 
vet tarn o’ shanter shapes are often seen 
with a visor brim, broader at the front; 
^is visor appears on many small hats. 
The use of a ball or button as a finish 
for the top of a round crown is a prevail¬ 
ing mode; sometimes the ball is of fur, 
soinetimes the same material as the hat. 
It is a Chinese style, and when used on a 
small round" hat with a brim turned up 
all around it is very suggestive of the his¬ 
toric Grand I’anjandrum with the button 
on top. 
Tiie Blir-on Frock. —The French 
fashion designi'rs are milking great use of 
slip-on Costumes, and these often consist 
of a fonndation slip of one color or mate¬ 
rial, ^yith a tunic or blouse of contrasting 
material that slips on over the head. Bome- 
times three materials are used in such a 
dress. the slip being of cloth, the sleeves 
of satin, and the tunic of Georgette crepe, 
chiffon or .some other thin niiiterial. Borne- 
times slip and tunic are of the same color, 
sometimes contrasting. The foundation 
slip is a combined .skirt and waist 
with attached sleeves, and finished neck 
line. Trimming is used on exposed sur- 
iaces as desired. The tunic or blouse is 
iContinued on page 1454) 
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