RURAL NEW-YORKER 
247 
The Home Dressmaker 
White Linen. —The costume shown 
at the left, in the lirst illustration, is a 
w'hite linen dress of the sports type, con¬ 
sisting of blouse and skirt. It is a style 
sure to be very popular, and is developed 
in many sensible models. As shown, the 
plain Avhite linen skirt is cut on narrow 
lines, almost suggesting a hobble. The 
coat blouse is a slip-on style without the 
usual closing. The back is cut so as to 
fit quite closely, all in one piece, the front 
being loose, like a straight Russian 
blouse, but without any closing. The 
neck is cut in a shallow oval, the opening 
ext(‘nding almost to the tips of the shoul- 
*lers. The neck opening has a border of 
yellow linen, embroidered along the edges 
with dull blue wool, and this broad neck 
oi)ening is closed at each side 
by a yellow chenille ball and 
loop. The ball looked like a 
small woolen knob, and was 
tjuaint but pretty. The pock- 
«‘ts of white linen had an 
overlay of the yellow, cut out 
in scrolls, and embroidt'red 
with the blue wool. The 
linen belt did not pass 
ai’ound the back, which was 
sufficiently fitted in without 
it, but started at the under¬ 
arm seams, coming across 
the front. It was finished 
with a soft buckle of yellow 
linen embroidered in blue, 
and a yellow woolen pompon 
like those on the shoulders. 
This dress is very simple, 
and equally suitable for 
town or country; it suggests 
a suitable mo<lel for linen, 
cotton poplin or similar linen 
substitutes. It would be 
very pretty in green linen 
trimmed with white, the 
white embroidered on with 
old rose. 
Si'oTTEU Voile.- Another 
simple dress is shown in the 
same picture, at the right. 
It is white voile having coin 
spots of old blue, trimmed 
with narrow knife pleatings 
of white lawn. The narrow 
skirt has five .sjjaced pleat¬ 
ings half way up, set in a 
little tuck pointing upwards. 
These give a barrel otitline 
to the skirt, as this soft material has a 
tendency to fall in at the hem, and the 
frills make it stand out more above. The 
waist .vas trimmed with two pleatings of 
the white lawn, both pointing upwards; 
they were set in with a band of the ma¬ 
terial. The double round collars of or¬ 
gandie were bound with blue; the 
sleeves were long, flaring a little below 
the elbow, but were then cut in for a 
depth of about five inches at the wrist, 
the broader slashed portion falling loose, 
while the lower part formed a tight cuff, 
Ixdng closely buttoned with white cro¬ 
cheted buttons. This style of sleevi* is 
<iuite often seen, in various forms, long 
sleeves being customary in .street 
dresses and many blouses also. The 
waist was buttoned down the back with 
crocheted buttons, and the blue satin 
girdle tied in a 1)<)W in the back, A touch 
Ilf nov(‘lty was givim the sash by the* use 
(if a blue ring, through which the loops 
of the sash wme diaiwii, giving tin* elTect 
<if a round buckle in the back. The hats 
worn by both figures are the ordinary 
broad-brimmed style that continues to 
hold its popularity, that on the right 
being trimmed with upstanding folds of 
black net. 
('iiiEDKEN’s Styles. —In the group of 
(hildren, the little frock at the left, in 
the original model, was a party <lress of 
white dotted net, Imt ho simple and 
pretty that it would 'be very desirable 
for many .special occasions, as Brussels 
net washes well. The full gathered skirt 
had live half-inch tucks, and the full 
wai.st had three tucks around it; the 
.short sleeve,s were also finished with 
tucks. All these tucks, instead of being 
on the outside, as usual, were run on the 
inside, giving a shadow elTect through 
the net. The round neck was finished 
with a little frill of net footing. The 
crushed girdle of blue satin had a quaint 
ornament in the shape of a very stiff 
little rose, standing up from the girdle at 
one side. This rose, of pink satin, was 
perfectly flat, ai)parcntly made over a 
still' foundation, and it had very formal 
leaves and stems of green satin, all being 
applied very flat. 
ITnic CnAMim.vY. —The little frock in 
the middle is given a touch of novelty by 
the curving collar or fichu. It has a plain 
waist with tlu’ee-quartm- sleeves; cro.ssed 
over it is a curvcnl band passing around 
the neck, and crossed in front, passing 
around the waist, and tied into a flat 
loop with sash end.s at the back. A 
round collar of white linen was attached 
to this fichu, the neck being cut down a 
little in front. The skirt was laid in 
kilt pleats, and on ♦■ach side was a pointed 
pocket flap, stitcdied under a pleat. This 
is a plain little frock, but the flat curved 
ficlm and little pocket flaps give a look 
of novelty. 
(lliECK OiNOHAM. —The little girl at 
the right shows a check gingham of him*, 
red and fawn. The skirt had a front 
panel smocked at the toi> with 
red and blue thread; there was a flat 
lileat on either .side of this panel, and 
the remainder of the skirt was plain. On 
each .side was a scpiare pocket, slightly 
gsjthered at the toj) into a band of white 
jiiiiue. The plain waist had a vest 
fastened down the front, out¬ 
lined by a flat stitched baTid 
of the nijiterial, which 
extended around the Avaist 
line, being cut all in one 
piece, and extended in a 
point at the bottom of the 
pieces down the front. Two 
sti’aps of white jiique con¬ 
nected these bands across the 
front. The round collar of 
pique was embellished with 
simple embroidery at the 
fi-ont corners, blue eyelets 
.‘ilternating with crosses of 
red. 
SlMUNG Fakrics. — ri.iin 
ginghaims, tissue ginghams 
and gingham voiles are seen 
in great variety varying in 
price, fi’om the heavier domes¬ 
tic dress ginghams at IS to 25 
c(mts a yard to the finer ma¬ 
terials costing from 40 to 
00 cents. (lingham voiles 
are new; they are the line 
texture of other voiles, hut 
in gingham pattmms and col¬ 
ors. 'riu'y are (‘xti'emely pret¬ 
ty, and there are delicate 
combinations of black and 
white, violet, .soft greens and 
blues, that will make up very prettily. The 
taste for plaids is seen in the new materials 
for separate skirts; last year it was fig- 
tires, the year b<‘forc stripe.s, and this year 
we see very hiiudsome wool plaids. These 
are not tartans formed of many narrow 
line.s, hut as a rule a dark or white ground 
cro.s.sed by a large plaid in about two 
colors. They are made up in both phiin 
and pletited skirt.s. Wool scrim is a new 
materi''’ for Spring wear; it has not dis- 
jilace the popular treco or serge, but is 
seen in suits and dresses of advjtnced 
models. Taffeta maintains its itopuhirity 
among silks. The colors seen in new fab¬ 
rics are mainly very brilliant, including 
many shtules of red, such as curriint and 
cortii. Wool taffeta is a new finely-woven 
woolen in attractive checks tind stripes, 
(Continued on page 241).) 
• ••• • 
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