■Uhe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
515 
Orchard Notes 
Root Gall on Raspberries 
I would like to get information regard¬ 
ing treatment of root gall on red rasp¬ 
berries. It has destroyed the last two 
planting.s that I made. Is there any va¬ 
riety that is not subject to it that is a 
40 od raspberry? What varieties would 
you recommend for Central Ohio? A. s. 
Gambler, O. 
Root-gall is frequently very destructive 
upon raspberries and blackberries. When 
the field is once attacked there is no sat¬ 
isfactory remedy for its control. If one 
knows of a practical grower who has a 
field of the desired variety that is pro¬ 
ducing well, and is free from root-gall, 
it would- be most desirable to secure 
plants from him. If one has a block of 
raspberries on his own place that is free 
from root-gall, it is well to secure plants 
from that planting, and not run the dan¬ 
ger of securing plants affected with gall 
from outside. Root-gall which attacks 
a large number of plants may remain in 
the soil for a long time, even though 
trees and bushes are not grown upon it. 
Several years ago a field was selected for 
a small nursery which had previously 
been used for the growing of general farm 
crops, snch ns corn, hay and Alfalfa, for 
a period of more than 20 years. Some 
peach trees were propagated upon this 
area by the planting of pits, and they de¬ 
veloped a very large amount of root-gall 
the first season. The disease must have 
been present in the soil at the time these 
pits were planted. It is known that root- 
gall will develop upon such plants as 
Alfalfa. This will illustrate how the dis¬ 
ease may develop on a crop planted upon 
.soil which has not had any fruit trees or 
plants introduced for a long period of 
years. Nevertheless, one should avoid 
I)lanting raspberry or blackberry plants 
which are affected with root-gall, and I 
believe the growers of bush fruits would 
do well to give a little attention to find¬ 
ing out who among their neighbors have 
fields that are vigorous, healthy and pro¬ 
ductive and secure plants from these 
fields for new plantings. 
The fhithbert is still one of the best 
varieties of red raspberries. However, it 
is possible that some other variety would 
succeed better in Central Ohio, and I 
would suggest that you make inquiry of 
some of your most successful raspberry 
growers and at your home State Experi¬ 
ment Station at Wooster. M. A. BLAKE. 
The Use of Large Trees for Planting 
I have planted large, heavy ntirsery 
trees of the apple with very satisfactory 
results so far as growth is concerned. 
However, my experience in this line more 
largely has been confined to planting with 
the purpo.se in view of top-working such 
trees to other varieties the s<‘ason follow¬ 
ing. The objection concerning the dif¬ 
ficulty of controlling the form of the heads 
of the older trees, of course, would not 
apply where the heads are to be cut off for 
grafting, at a height of about two feet 
from the ground. We have 11 acres of 
young orchard just coming into bearing, 
planted with large, heavy three-year-old 
trees. The branches were heavily cut 
back at time of planting, simply to bal¬ 
ance the unavoidable loss of roots in dig¬ 
ging and transportation, and the trees al¬ 
lowed to become established the first sea¬ 
son. The following Spring the entire 
heads of these trees were sawed off at a 
sharp angle, two feet from their bases, a 
single, long scion of the desired variety 
grafted into each stump, and the new 
heads formed from the shoots from such 
scions. I have been very much pleased 
with this use of large trees, and should 
not hesitate to plant them with confidence 
that, by fearlessly cutting back the heads 
to the point at which the branches are 
desired to start, very good results will be 
secured. 
While on the subject of age and size 
of apple trees for planting, 1' am led 
briefly to consider the claims so often 
made that one-year-old “whips” of the ap¬ 
ple are preferable to all larger sizes, in that 
the stem may be cut back at the height 
desired for the branches, and the head 
formed from a selection of branches from 
the generous^ number of buds with v/hich 
the stem is studded. This is really a fine 
theory for the classroom and horticultural 
writer; but, as everyone well knows who 
has had practical field experience under 
various conditions, it does not invariably 
or even generally work out the way it is 
supposed to do. All the buds of the 
upper half of the yearling stem may push 
out; and in this case the plan of selec¬ 
tion of shoots from these buds can be 
carried out according to schedule. But 
many times it is found that but one, two 
or three of the bud.s will start, the others 
remaining stubbornly dormant, and a very 
unsightly, ill-formed tree results from the 
first season’s growth. 
On the other hand, from a two, three, 
or even four-year-old apple tree that has 
been headed at the proper height in the 
nursery row and has a fairly well distri¬ 
buted “whorl” of branches at planting 
time, almost invariably may be obtained 
a well-balanced, symmetrical head the 
fir.st season after planting. 
Yearling trees are excellent for plant¬ 
ing, to be sure; but their greater excel¬ 
lence is more apparent in the well-cared- 
for garden, test plot or small home 
orchard, than in regular orchard plant¬ 
ing, where it is not always pos.sible to 
give them the extra care that a small 1 
number of trees may enjoy. In ourj 
various, newly-planted apple orchards at 
the county experiment farms scattered 
over our State, it has been very notice¬ 
able to anyone who would view the mat¬ 
ter fairly, that two-year-old trees have 
started off much more uniformly so farl 
as well-balanced heads are concerned, 
than have the many yearlings that also 
have been used. 
With fruit trees other than the peach, 
if the stock be clean and vigorous and 
carefully dug and packed, outside of the 
inconvenience and higher cost of the 
greater bulk and weight to be transported 
and handled, I believe that a reasonable 
degree of satisfaction and ultimate good 
and fruitful re.sults may be obtained. 
Carelessness, however, in any part of 
their treatment, may easily discount their 
value. F. n. ballou. 
Ohio Exp. Station. 
Sunflower Stalks Tree Protectors 
I hiive seen several accounts of injury 
done bj’ rabbits to young fruit tree.s the 
past unusually severe and snowy Winter 
and several ways of i)reveution by pro- 
tecfoi's have been recommended. Prob¬ 
ably the best of which is two feet wide, 
one-quarter inch mesh woven galvanized 
wire, cut in suitable widths, rolled up 
and tied on the trees. Rut I have found 
an excellent substitute in the dead stalks 
of the sunflower, which answer the pur¬ 
pose nicely, are easily put on, and will 
last two or three years, according to care 
given. With a fine-toothed saw cut the 
stalks in about two-foot lengths and split 
in halves with a butcher knife; they 
always sj)lit straight. Then place the 
pieces (halves), around the little tree and 
tie securely at top and bottom with binder 
twine. Push the stalks into the ground 
two or three inches to keep field mice 
away from the trees. If a tree is too 
large to be covered by two pieces, three or 
more can be used. For rabbits, especi.al- 
ly, this makes a .safe, neat job. The 
.stalks should be removed in the Spring, to 
prevent injurious insects from harboring 
under them, and to give air and light to 
the tree bfxlies, but may l>e saved^ind used 
again the next Winter. Persons desiring 
a cheap tree pi'otector should procure sun¬ 
flower seeds, grow them this Summer and 
save the stalks to use next Winter. They 
are worth growing for the see<ls, as they 
make fine poultry and bird food, and a 
valuable oil is now extracted from them. 
The Mammoth Russian, single-stemmed, 
one-headed variety, is the best for se<‘ds 
or stalks. Tiio.s. t. newby. 
Raising Cauliflower Seed 
Would you tell me how to raise cauli¬ 
flower seed? j. R. R. 
Bangor, I'a. 
Practically all the cauliflower seed 
used in this country is imported from 
Europe, as the American growers have 
not yet been successful in raising it here 
so as to give satisfactory results. Our 
climate seems to be unsuited for the pro¬ 
duction of the seed. It would therefore 
be only a waste of time for you to try 
to grow seed of this plant. k. 
Stewart Lens 
per pair 
$2.00 
!kl/ 
Stewart V-Ray 
Searchlight ^O.UU 
Special 
Ford 
Model 
Stewart V-Ray A A 
Sparkplug 
Stewart Warning 
H^^lloperated $3.50 
(Motor-driven type $6) 
Stewart Speedometer and 
Instrument Board for Ford 
Sedan andCoupelet models 
Price, complete^ ^ 5 QQ 
Western Price $15.50 
Accessories 
For Ford Cars 
When you buy accessories for your Ford 
car, get the best. Insist on having Stewart 
Automobile Accessories. 
Costs you no more to get the best, in the 
first place. And, in the long run, it is cheapest. 
Stewart Accessories for Ford cars are the 
best that your money can buy. There are 
none better sold at any price. 
When the best costs you no more, why take 
chances with unknown, untried, inferior ac¬ 
cessories that may give you endless trouble. 
Back of Stewart Acces.'sories stands the 
world’s greatest accessory manufacturers— 
an organization writh unlimited resources and 
manufacturing facilities. This fact alone in¬ 
sures the continued superiority of Stewart 
Accessories. 
You need Stewart Accessories on your Ford 
car. They enaole you to get more pleasure, 
better service, and greater satisfaction out of 
your motoring. 
The Stewart line for Ford cars is complete. 
Note how varied it is. Examine the illus¬ 
trations on this page. Each shows an acces¬ 
sory you need — an accessory that will make 
your Ford a better car. 
Take the Stewart Speedometer and Instru¬ 
ment Board for example. This Stewart Prod¬ 
uct is an absolute necessity on any car. 
You are depriving yourself of half the 
pleasure of motoring if you have no Stewart 
Speedometer. You need it to tell you how 
•far and how fast you drive; to avoid arrest for 
speeding; to check your gasoline and oil con¬ 
sumption and your tire mileage. You need it 
for following road guides. You need it wher¬ 
ever and whenever you drive. 
The Stewart Instrument Board will 
“dress up” your car — adds to its appear¬ 
ance. Fills up that unsightly gap below 
the windshield. Brings the speedometer 
up into position where it can be easily seen 
Rests tight against the steering column 
Eliminates vibration from the steering wheel 
Easily installed in a few minutes. No 
bolts, screws or brackets to fuss with_ 
Clock, headlight switch, starter control 
and other accessories can be easily added. 
Made of wood with black satin egg-shell 
finish. Speedometer is mounted flush. Adds a 
finishing touch of elegance to the Ford car. 
Then there are the other Stewart Ac¬ 
cessories for your Ford. The Stewart 
Autoguard for the front and rear are needed 
for your car’s protection. The Stewart 
V-Ray Searchlight is indispensable. Stewart 
L,ens makes every road bright and clear as day* 
The Stewart Warning Signal warns and clears the 
way for you in any traffic. Stewart V-Ray Spark 
Plugs put an end to your spark plug troubles. 
Each of these Stewart Accessories is a motoring 
necessity. Don’t be without them another day. 
Stewart Accessories are sold by leading jobbers^ 
accessory dealers and garages everywhere. 
Stewart-Warner Speedometer Cor’n 
CHICAGO, U. S. A. 
Stewart Autoguard fb*? CA 
for Ford cars ^ 
(Western Price $8.25) 
With Nickel Rail, $8.50 
(Western Price $9.25) 
Stewart Autoguard 
Tire-carrier <611 CA 
for Ford Cars «P * 1. .OVi 
(Western Price $12.50) 
With Nickel Rail, $12.50 
(Western Price $13.50) 
