IShe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
525 
RURALISMS 
Preparation of Hotbeds 
I have a long square flat pile of horse 
manure for my hotbed which I have been 
collecting from four horses for nearly 
two weeks. It has not started to heat 
yet. 1 have always heard that it ought 
to be hot and forked over before putting 
it in the bed. Can I put thus in fresh 
and let it heat in the bed? This place 
lies on a hill and is cold. I think the 
middle of March ample time to start the 
seeds, as nothing is put in the open until 
after the middle of May. I low long 
.should it take for manure to heat in bwl? 
liover, N. J. K. m. b. 
Manure will not be likely to ferment 
to any extent piled a« it now is. par¬ 
ticularly in cool weather. In fact it is 
more likely to become frozen than it is 
to heat. When it becomes frozen, it is 
then very difficult to get it into comli- 
tion for fermentation, as it must be 
thawed out first, and often te<lious de¬ 
lays occur while this is being accom- 
I)lished. If the manure is free from ice, 
and is dry, wet it down well, then put 
it in a conical heap, same as a haycock, 
and if there is not at least one-half of 
the bulk made up of straw or other 
coar.se litter, add hay or straw, or forest 
leaves which are still better. lu a few 
days fermentation should become pretty 
lively. This will be indicated by the 
steam escaping from the heap. Now turn 
the heap over, shaking it out well and 
forming another heap .same as before, en¬ 
deavoring t() get that portion that was 
on the outside of the first heap welt mixed 
and covered up in the second heap. In 
three or four days a second lively fer¬ 
mentation will be in progress, which will 
again be indicated by the escaping steam. 
It is now ready to be i)laced in the frame. 
When this is done be sure to shake the 
manure out and spread it evenly, patting 
it down with the back of the fork, and 
treading it just moderatidy fii m with the 
feet, being particular to tread along the 
outer edges .so that the heap may be of 
even solidity throught>ut. fi’he manure 
should be about .‘10 inches deep. When 
finished plunge a thermometer into the 
manure, and put the sa.sh on.—In a day 
or two the third and final fermentation 
will become active, and the temperature 
will run up to a hundred degrees or 
thereabouts. This is too hot to admit 
of seed sowing, therefore you must wait 
until the temperature laa-i'des to about 
00 degrees when the soil should be put 
on to a depth of five to six iuclu's. Allow 
it to stand 24 hours, when seed may be 
planted. If the manure is not given this 
preliminary preparation, it will sotm burn 
itself out and become cool much too .soon, 
and the young plants sufler from ])roba- 
ble chilling, which must be avoided if best 
results are to be obtained. K. 
Shade Trees and Evergreens 
My house faces the west and is lo¬ 
cated on the southeast corner of cia)ss- 
roads. Our splendid view is on the west 
hill, so of course we would not like to 
have this entirely cut off, but today I 
am finishing cutting down the last two 
butternut trees on the west; «)nse(iuently 
it leaves the house and grounds looking 
very j)are and forlorn; also there will 
be no sMinshad(! at all, nor any wind¬ 
break. What are the most suitable trees 
to .set in a two-foot black loam with 
hardpau subsoil, that would give protec¬ 
tion from sunshine and wind in Winter, 
and would be rapid growers, also beautify 
the home grounds? What are the best 
evergreen varieties? < 1 . 't* 
Genoa, N. Y. 
Most of the maples would probably 
suc•^^eed in this soil. The silver or white 
maple is the most rapid grower, but is 
not as handsome a tree as the Norway 
or native sugar maple, which are slower 
in growth, but make beautiful shade 
trees for lawn and street idanting. De¬ 
ciduous trees rlo not make the best of 
wind-breaks, therefore where* Summer 
shade and protection from Winter winds 
are of ecpial importance, it is ;i good 
plan to plant evergreens among the 
shade trees; this plan will give the ends 
desired. The Norway spruce is an ex¬ 
cellent tree for the purpo.se. fi’he ever¬ 
greens best suited for generiri planting 
are as follows: Colorado Hlue spruce 
(Koster’s) American arbor vita*, Noi'- 
way spruce, Scotch pine, Hetinispora 
picifera, Retiuispora plumosa, Retinispo ’a 
plumosa aurea, Retiuispora squarrosa 
I'eitchii. 
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