RURAL NEW>YORKER 
G77 
RURALISMS 
Growing Norway Maples 
The soil for a crop of Norway maples 
should be very thoroughly prepared the 
season previous. Preferably it should be 
a sandy loam, free from stone and hard- 
pan near the surface. Our own practice | 
on Jjong Island has been to put on at 
least four carloads of New York horse 
manure and plow under for corn. In 
plowing we plow as deep as the horses 
can pull, and sometimes use a subsoil plow 
in the furrow with one heavy horse. 
In September of that year we place on 
order in France for seedling Norway 
maples, trying to get them at least three 
feet in height. They are shipped in Feb¬ 
ruary and arrive in March in time for 
setting in April. Rows are opened much 
the same as for any nursery stock, and 
four and one-half or five feet apart. If 
it is our intention to supply extra sized 
trees we plant three feet apart in the 
row. For a regular trade tree we plant 
41^x1 feet. Wlien the tree has been 
partly planted and the roots are all cov¬ 
ered slightly and firmed, we scatter a 
good vegetable fertilizer with bone base 
analyzing G—6—G at the rate of SCO 
pounds to the acre, and finish filling in. 
This liberal fertilizing may seem unneces¬ 
sary, but the Norway is likely to make a 
crooked trunk unless it is forced to grow 
quickly. In order to get a nice straight 
trunk we have sometimes in the second 
year of growth dug under a liberal coat¬ 
ing of dung in October and early the fol¬ 
lowing March cut the tree off even with 
the ground and taken one shoot for a 
new trunk. We have grown many trees 
from seed taken from mature trees now 
growing near our nurseries. r. 
Advice About Apples 
We often see in The R. N.-Y., “He is 
of age, ask him,” and it seems that W. J. 
Welday (page 381) should be told some¬ 
thing along the same line. When in 
doubt, ask the trees. Circulate about 
among the orchards of your own locality. 
Look especially for the oldest trees. See 
how they were trained. If they have 
failed because of the way they were 
started, try to figure out some way to 
avoid the fault. Take the advice of the 
experiment stations nearest you, but first 
check it up with the results found in 
your neighbors’ orchards. Even here it 
is folly to follow too closely. We can see 
no results on most of our land from the 
use of potash, and very little from the 
use of phosphoric acid, but heavy applica- 
cations of nitrogen give notable results. 
A neighbor less than two miles away finds 
that on his soil phosphates are a benefit. 
Another man a few miles away says that 
phosphoric acid improves the color of his 
peaches, but makes them all ripen at once. 
With us Alfalfa is the only crop that re¬ 
sponds to applications of potash. 
If the apple twigs are injured, how are 
we to know the extent of the injury until 
growth starts (or fails to)? Cut back a 
few trees while frozen and see if any 
harm results. Plant most of your trees 
according to the methods in common use 
at home, but try other ways in a few 
cases and see what happens. When in 
doubt play safe, but always remember to 
ask the trees. They speak in plain lan¬ 
guage, but one must know their speech to 
understand what they have to say. 
Wayne Co., N. Y. Alfred c. weed. 
Grapevines Fail to Bear 
What shall I do to make grapevines 
fruit? I have Niagaras and Wordens, six 
years old, fertilized with ashes and cow 
manure at different times. They have 
grown well, but only two poor bunches of 
fruit. Would severe pruning help, and 
when ? MRS. B. L. B. 
Antrim, N. H. 
Perhaps one reason why these vines fail 
to bear the maximum amount of fruit is 
that they have been too heavily fertilized 
with manure. This is quite frequently 
the case in the home garden, but rarely so 
in commercial vineyards, although the 
writer has record of one such. It would 
be well to withhold the manure for two 
or three seasons and instead apply about 
two pounds of acid phosphate per vine. 
These vines should be longer pruned in¬ 
stead as the questioner suggests more se¬ 
verely cut back. F. E. GLAUWIX. 
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