"Chts RURAL NEW-YORKER 
819 
The Home Dressmaker 
'J'liE Pori'LAR Organ niE.—All of the 
familiar cotton fabrics hold an important 
l)lace in this Summer’s styles, and or¬ 
gandie is in high favor for dresses, blouses 
and separate skirts In the first illustra¬ 
tion, the figure on the left shows a simple 
organdie gown in pastel blue. The plain 
gathered skirt has a very deep hem. com¬ 
ing almost to the top. The sheer material 
makes this desirable, and we see these 
deep hems used in place of other trim¬ 
ming, both in one-piece dresses and sepa¬ 
rate skirts. Any pattern calling for a 
plain gathered skirt and plain waist may 
be us('d for this dress. The waist has 
elbow sleeves, and is fastened invisibly 
down the front, the only trimming being 
the crossed fichu. This fichu, which is 
folded over double, is of white 
organdie bound with blue, and 
is crossed at the waist-line over 
the girdle. It is held in place 
at each end by a flat rosette of 
white knife pleating. These flat 
rosettes of organdie pleating are 
much used in trimming new 
Summer dresses. The elbow 
sleeves have turn-back white 
cuffs bound with blue. The 
girdle of blue silk is knotted at 
one side, and falls in sash ends. 
The same style could be used in 
chiffon voile, which, in a solid 
color, would make a smart and 
serviceable dress at small ex- 
jiense. These simple organdie 
dresses, when readymade, are 
often quite expensive at fash¬ 
ionable shops, from about .$1S 
up; the organdie costs from 50 
cents a yard up, either white or 
colored, according to width and 
quality. 
The Poptilar Gingham.— 
'riie figure at the right in the 
same picture, is another very 
simple model, though the orig¬ 
inal was an expensive gown in a 
fashionable shop. The material 
was fine Scotch gingham, a com¬ 
bination of blue, buff and white. 
'Phe perfectly plain narrow skirt 
had an apron tunic in both 
front and back; merely two 
straight pieces, gathered at top, 
and meeting at the sides, but 
hanging sei)arate. The front 
section of the tunic had a row 
of white crocheted buttons 
down each side. The waist is 
ix-rfectly plain, buttoned down 
the front with crocheted but¬ 
tons : a plain broafl girdle of the ma¬ 
terial is buttoned at each side. Collar 
and cuffs of white linen are cut into 
points at the edge, and finished with 
a tiny picot edging. This dress was 
joined at the waist, the placket being in 
front, hidden by the tablier tunic, which 
hooked over at one side. It is simple to 
make, and easy to launder. 
Ged-Fashioned Calico. — Real old- 
fashioned calico has returned to favor, 
and the children in the second picture 
show how this material is used. At the 
left is a child’s frock of just such calico 
as one sees in old-fashioned patchwork, 
an orange ground with a bright blue 
sprig. It had a perfectly plain gathered 
skirt and plain waist buttoned down the 
back. At the waist line was a piping of 
s<jlid blue cambric, and there Avere three 
die. The dress, Avhich fastens down the 
back, consists of the upjier or waist sec¬ 
tion, to Avhich are attached the two 
flounces forming the skirt. The loose 
blouse is gathered in by a belt in two 
sections, one at each side, drawn to¬ 
gether and tied with blue picot-edged 
ribbon, which is run through a button¬ 
hole. The belt, flounces and edge of blouse 
are bound with blue; the shaped collar, 
deeper in front than back, is also bound, 
and has the ribbon run through it. and 
tied in frcut. The bell sleeves are cut in 
at the wrist like a battlement, making 
the cuff narrower; this is all bound and 
tied together with blue ribbon. 
Separate SiaRTS.—This season sepa¬ 
rate skirts are getting far from their 
tSiimnier ^Jodeh in Organdie and (Jinghnni 
Neiv Fu.'thioiis 
flat little blue bows down the front, one 
fastening the collar and two below. Col¬ 
lar and cuffs were heavy Avhite linen. 
The little girl in the center wears just 
such a dark blue calico as thousands of 
little country girls have Avorn—the sort 
of material thrifty Avomen selected be¬ 
cause it Avashed Avell and did not show' 
dirt—'but this little frock held a place of 
honor *in a Fifth Avenue shop. The 
plain skirt had two little ruffles at the 
bottom, and was gathered into a plain 
Avaist; the elboAv sleeves Avere also fin¬ 
ished Avith two little ruffles, fl'here Avas 
a round linen collar, attached to the dress, 
which buttoned down the back with small 
blue buttons. 
White Organdie.—T he little girl at 
the right Avears Avhite organdie ; quite a 
contrast to the elaborate lingerie dresses 
we so often see, for there is no lace or 
embroidery, only bindings of blue organ- 
original tailored character, for we see 
them in n A’jiriety of thin materials, as 
well as silks and satins. One A''ery dainty 
separate skirt was of AV'hite organdie, hav¬ 
ing a hem about 24 inches deej); above 
this Avas a grouj) of nine little tucks about 
one-eighth inch deep. The skirt Avas gath¬ 
ered, and there Avas a plain straight gir¬ 
dle six or seven inches Avide, having a 
group of six of the little tucks around it. 
The girdle Avas buttoned in front Avith 
three large pearl buttons. Similar skirts 
are made of cros.s-bar muslin or white 
cheek voile. When the ci oss-bar or check 
material is used, the skirt is generally 
made Avithout tucks, merely a six-inch 
hem. Such skirts are gathered and rarely 
buttoned down the front, this style being 
reserved for heavier materials. The sepa¬ 
rate skirt of thin material is easily laun¬ 
dered, and looks pretty Avith a 
variety of Avaists. There are 
also skirts of organdie in deli¬ 
cate pastel colors, some with 
wide horizontal tucks and some 
Avith butterfly sashes. For laun¬ 
dering the.se delicate fabrics one 
may buy a special soap that 
Avashes and also dyes the fab¬ 
ric. so as to preserve the orig¬ 
inal color. White crepe de chine 
and a variety of silks and satins 
are also used. The favorite 
AAoiists for Avear Avith these thin 
skirts are slip-on styles in sheer 
material. There are some slip- 
on blouses having a tie-around 
girdle, Avhich gives the effect of 
a one-piece dress. 
A LTKRiNG 1 ‘atterns.—W hen 
buying commercial patterns, it 
must be remembered that they 
:ire all modeled for a standard 
o average figure, and many of us 
have indmdual peculiarities 
that call for alteration. When 
preparing to cut expensive ma¬ 
terial from a neAV and untried 
l)attern. it Avill often pay to cut it first in 
some old cotton goods, baste up and fit, 
.so that the general style may be studied ; 
this Avill often result in a decided sav¬ 
ing Avheu cutting the expensive goods. 
When a pattern must be altered, the 
measurements of the figure should be 
taken according to the diagram given in 
most pattern books.- Then divide each sec¬ 
tion of the pattern vertically doAvn the 
center, and horizontally across the cen¬ 
ter ; if it is to be made smaller, lay a 
fold of the needed size at these lines; if 
larger, it must be cut and ‘extended. To 
alter a pattern by merely .dding on or 
taking off Avithout referen. t.. the orig¬ 
inal lines cannot give a s^Lisfactory re¬ 
sult. In the case of a Avoman who is 
rather stout for her height it is often 
necessary to take a Avaist pattern up at 
the Avaist line, Avhile Avidening it under 
(Continued on page S24) 
For best results use SO-CO-NY Kerosene 
« ^PERFECTION 
PTd.CtlC2L]. OIL cooii,STOVES 
The New Perfection Oil Cook Stove 
makes patriotism practical—it more 
than repays you in service for the coal 
you give to America’s needs. 
Use the New Perfection, for its long 
blue chimney gives you full, clean, 
smokeless cooking heat,—without a 
cent’s worth of fuel wasted. 
In 3,000,000 homes the New Perfection 
is making housework easier, showing 
the way to cool clean kitchens and 
freedom from ash pan, coal hod drudg¬ 
ery—and saving money. 
Made in I, 2, 3, 4-burner sizes with 
or without cabinet top. 
STANDARD OIL CO. OF NEW YORK 
Principal Offices 
New York Albiny 
Buffalo Boston 
Ask your dealer 
about the New 
Perfection Kero¬ 
sene Water Heater 
and New Perfec¬ 
tion Ovens. 
Use SO-CO-NY 
Kerosene — Every 
Drop Clean Heat 
SAVE HALF Your 
Paint Bills 
BY USING Ingersoll Paint 
PROVED BEST by 75 years’ use. It will 
please you. The ONLY PAINT endorsed 
by th- “GRANGE” for 43 years. 
Made in all colors—for all purposes. 
Get my FREE DELIVERY offer. 
From Factory Direct to You at Wholesale Prices. 
INGERSOLL PAINT BOOK—FREE 
Telia nil about Paint and Paintinir for Durability. Valu¬ 
able information FREE TO YOU with Sample Carda. 
Write me. DO IT NOW. I WILL SAVE YOU MONEY. 
Oldest Beady Mixed Paint Honse in America—Estab. 1842. 
0. W. Ingersoll, 246 Plymouth St., Brooklyn, N.Y. 
Don’t Send a Penny 
^ These Len-Mort work and outdoor shoes are such wonderful value V 
that we gladly send them, no money down. You will find them so well- 
made and so stylish and such a big money saving 
barjtain that you will surely keep them. So don’t bepjtate. 
Just fill out and mail.the coupon. We will eend a pair of 
your size. No need for you to pay bieher prices when 
you can buy direct from us—and know what you are 
tinj? before you pay even a penny. Why pay 
and $6.00 for shoes not near so good? Act now. 
the coupon today while this special offer holds good. 
Great Shoe Offer 
Send 
We can’t tell you enough about these shoes 
here. This shoe is built to meet the demand of 
an outdoor city workers’ shoe as well as for 
the modern farmer. Send and see for 
yourself what they are. Built on stylish 
lace Blucher last. The special tanning 
process makes the leather proof against the 
•acid in milk, manure, soil, gasoline, etc. They 
outwear 3 ordinary pairs of shoes. Your choice of 
wide, medium or narrow. Very flexible, soft and 
easy on the feet. Made by a special process 
which leaves all the “life" in the leather and 
E ives it wonderful wear-resistini 
'ouble leather soles and heels, 
and waterproof tongue. Heavy 
chrome leather tops. Just 
slip them on and see if they 
are not the most comfort¬ 
able, easiest, most wond¬ 
erful shoes you ever wore 
Payonly $3.65 on arrival 
If after careful examina¬ 
tion you don’t find them 
all you expect,sendthem 
back and we will return 
your money. No obli¬ 
gation on you at all. 
This is at our risk, not 
yours. 
Leonard- 
Morton & Co. 
Dept. 140, Chicago 
Send the Len-Mort Shoes 
prepaid. I will pay $3.66 on ar¬ 
rival, and examine them carefully. 
If I am nut satistied, will send them back 
and you will refund my money. 
Sise.Width. 
Only the coupon—nomoney. That brings 
these splendid shoes prepaid. You are to 
be the judge of quality, style and value. 
Keep them only if satisfactory in every 
way. Be sure to give size and width. Mail 
the coupon now. 
Leonard-Morton & Co. 
Dept. 140 Chicago 
Name. 
Age.Married or single. 
f Address. 
)eeeeo«« 
