■Uhe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1007 
will 1)0 
or 11 u- 
Wau Ecoxojiies. —Economy in di-oss 
(loos not moan wearing ugly or unbecom¬ 
ing clothes; it moans making the host of 
what we have and buying with thought 
and discrimination. Most of our women, 
both young and old, have much reason 
for anxiety now, but long faces and un¬ 
becoming clothe.s will not help the sons 
and brothers in olive drab; and it seems 
a part of our duty to look as well and 
cheerful as possibh*. In buying new ma¬ 
terials one should stick to stiindard col¬ 
ors; dy(‘s arc' uncertain, and most dealers 
decline to guarantee them, and it 
almost imjxissible to nmtch odd 
usual shades. Standaial colors 
lessen manufacturing expenses 
and release labor for other lines. 
During this >Summer diirk blue 
and black have been so much 
worn in New York that they 
have seenu'd lik(' a universal 
uniform; they are becoming to 
most womc'D, and can be varied 
to an unending degree by col¬ 
ored trimming. Shades of 
brown, ranging from bronx.e to 
taup('. are next in favor, and 
an' likoly to be ('spc'cially po))- 
ular next Winter. All the new 
di'essc's show longer skirts, most 
of them ankh' h'ligth. or Just 
above the ankle, and are much 
narrower, so that the pn'vailing 
outline is straight ami slim. 
Black Sati.x. —In the first 
illustration, the dn'ss iit the 
left is black satin, combined 
with (ic'orgette crepe. The 
straight, narrow satin .skirt has 
a gatlu'red tunic oi)en in tlu' 
front; the upja'r part of this is 
made of the creja'. the deep hem 
l)('low the tidmming b('ing of 
satin. The band of trimming 
is dull tc'rrii-cottii r('d wool ('in- 
broidery in a simple block de¬ 
sign ; this band would jilso be 
attractive' djirnc'd in two colors. 
The slec'Vf'h'ss waist with large 
arinholes is of satin, cut S(piare 
(piite low in front, with a 
white organdie tucker closing it 
to a V shajee; the collar, foldc'cl 
down .'it ('ach side to the girdle, 
is of crepe with a fold of satin, 
and forms ii d('('p .sailor collar 
at the back. The (b'orgette 
sl('('ves are a shjipe, now very popular, 
that \ye have illustrated Ix'fore, and liave 
a satin cuff and a border of wool em¬ 
broidery. The satin girdle is a novel 
one, being folded around the waist, then 
bi'ought low around one side, where it is 
knotted to form sa.s-h ends. The sash is 
finislu'd with black silk fringe, which 
hangs below the edge of the skirt. This 
looks accidentiil, but is a an idea fre- 
•luently .seen now, the edge of a i)anel 
or sash extending below the hem. This 
is an attractive Fall dress, to be worn 
later with !i fur .scarf, while it could be 
worn under a separate coat all Winter, 
and although simple, (he elTect is (piite 
dressy. 'I'he hat is a broad shape covc'red 
with black (Ji'orgette and trimmed witli 
burnt featlu'r.s. 
Bi.rio .lEusKY Cloth. —Another stand¬ 
tended in tlie skirt, giving the effect of 
a continuous trimming. There is a plain 
collar of the Jersa'y cloth ; the long, tight 
sl('('ves are finislu'd at the wrist with a 
fold of rose-color('(l cloth and a row of 
buttons. Old rose is a favorite color to 
combine with a dark blue, and the elVect 
given here is ('specially good. The girdle 
is of dark blue gi'osgrain ribbon, tied 
in a flat bow in tlu' back'. Thi.s dress, 
like the black satin, is a style that will 
b(' useful for I'all wear, and also for 
Winter. The hat is a rose-colored sport 
shape, cmbroidi'red in dark Iiliu'. worn 
with a dark blue veil. Draped veils are 
Blouse and and Tico Juvenile Modes 
ard model is shown in tlu' figure at the 
right. This is dark blue silk jersey cloth; 
the skirt and waist are joiiu'd at the 
girdle, but give the elTect of a one-pi(*ce 
dress. The two-piece skirt is (piite plain, 
but the back breadth is gathered into 
the seam for a short space at the bottom, 
giving a little fullm'ss. the skirt being 
narrow and nearly ankle length. There 
are 15 small dark blue buttons on ('ach 
side seam at the bottom. The wai.st is 
perfectly plain, but has a v('st('e and two 
panels let in of old ro.s(' silk embroidered 
in blue. The vestee and panels are ex¬ 
Useful Fall and Winier Gowns 
much in vogue this Sumnu'r. dark blue 
being a specially popular coloi'. A fa¬ 
vorite style is a plain or fancy lu't having 
a deep border of chifVon (iiat givi's a 
Imrem ('llVct by obscuring the lower jiart 
of the fac('. Such v('ils an' much worn 
with small to(iues, and also with the [lop- 
ular saihjr hats. V('ils of this tyjie in 
shade.s of brown and green are shown 
among Fall styles. 
Sei'AUATK W.m.sts. —In the second jiic- 
ture the figure at the left shows an at¬ 
tractive tailored blouse, very desirable for 
high school, college or busim'ss, as w('ll 
as general wear. It is nmde as plainly 
as a man’.s shirt, having in front three 
(hit i)leats on either side of the cl(;)sing, 
being fasteiu'd with plain pearl buttons, 
riu' smart feature of this blouse is the 
high black .satin stock with a narrow 
white roll collar at the top. 
This stock is cut in two sec¬ 
tions, the tab being cut in one 
with the collar .section. It is 
fastened invisibly in fi'ont, the 
clo.'^ing bi'ing finished with three 
white pearl buttons. The tabs 
of the stock are finished at the 
end with three black silk balls 
hanging from cords. The long 
sle('V('s have a black satin cuff 
buttoning tightly and finished 
with a white turn-over at the 
wrist, 'riu' stock and cufTs are 
I'cmovable for laund('ring. The 
original model was of white 
wash silk, but it is suitable for 
liiK'ii, voile, or any other waist 
inateri.'il. The skirt worn with 
it is of white wash silk with a 
border of black rings, a plain 
gathered skirt of narrow width 
with a folded ‘girdle of the 
ringo'd border. The hat is a 
plain black sailor, with a folded 
band of white silk and drape(l 
v('il. The plain gathered sep¬ 
arate skirt of this tyjie is very 
jiopular in thin materials, sucii 
as organdie, cros.s-bar dimity 
and voile, and the model shown 
would b(' very attractive in 
border('(l voile. The skirts of 
white cro.ss-bar are very jiretty, 
and are among this season’s 
iH'wer styles. 
A JtTVEXiLE Tahakd. — The 
child in the cent('r is wearing a 
(piaint little frock of orange and 
white check dimity, the color 
the soft yellow of orange flesh. 
Front and back are the same, a striiight 
tabard of the clu'ck material, bound all 
around with a one-inch band of white mate¬ 
rial. The under-arin s('cti()n is of white 
dimity laid in pleats and burden'd with 
the check; the white sleev('s have a turn¬ 
back cuff of the check. The round neck 
was bound with white. 'Plus dress, which 
was very (piaint and pretty, fa.stened in¬ 
visibly down the .shoulders, so that it 
could be ojiened to slip on. 
SifoCK AXi) Bloomeks. —'Pile little girl 
at the right shows a play dress that sug¬ 
gests a picture from Mother Goose. It 
consists of a pale blue percale smock and 
bloomers of old rose flowered cretonne, 
with sunbonnet to match. 'Phe smock 
had collar, cuffs and pocket flaps of the 
cretonne, and was ratlicr short, so as to 
show the blooiiK'rs. 'Phis (piaint little 
costume was comfortable. pictur('s(pie and 
economical, and the piece bag in many a 
household would yield nuiti'rial for mak¬ 
ing it. An outgrown dress might give 
material for the smock. 
Btjyixg AXI) Makixo Over. —Any usa¬ 
ble remnants of cotton goods that may 
be purchased at a r('a.S()nai)le price should 
be bought now ; there is no likelihood of 
a reduction in price next yi'ar, but rather 
of a greater scarcity. Odd lengths that 
may be us('d for cbildren’s clothes are 
what business men term a. “good buy.” 
It is also a good time to dye soiled and 
shabby materials that may save fresh 
purchas('s. It is .a good plan, when the 
dye-])()t is going, to colh'ct odd pieces of 
dill'eri'iit goods, and dye them at the sanu' 
time, if the dye bath is sullicient. Sonu'- 
times they do not all dye evenly, but it 
often haiipens that the color is (piite uni¬ 
form. and it may be that one of these 
odd pieces is Just the thing lu'i'di'd in an 
('luergency for trimming or finishing a 
ganiK'nt. With the darker colors it is- 
usually well to freshen the .shabby ma¬ 
terial by following the original color (un- 
l('ss it is to be (lyed black) rather than 
trying to changi' to another color. In 
washing soiled woolen materials we used 
to pin our faith to soap barlv, but now 
tlu're are ci'rtain spi'cially i)r('i)ared 
powdered soiips that give excellent re- 
sult.s, with very little trouble. 
Standaiuu/.ei) Dress. —Clothing manu¬ 
facturers ar(' now stand.ardi/.ing tlu'ir 
styles to eliminate waste, confining them¬ 
selves to a smaller list, of models and 
colors. 'Phe family dressmaker can fol¬ 
low out this idea to advantage. Among 
children’s ready-made wash dress(»s we 
usually find colored ginghams, chambrays. 
et('.. made wifh bloomers to match. 'Phis 
eliminates petticoats, thus saving launder¬ 
ing, and has the further advantage of 
being both comfortable and modest. We 
should make (he little girl’s Winter, as 
well as Summer dresses, with bloomers, 
and old woolen materials, washed or dyed, 
can be utilizi'd for this purpose. If the 
house or the school is jioorly heated, these 
bloomers can be buttoned to a woolen 
underwaist. Among women’s under¬ 
garments, there are some combinations 
now cut on the straight lines of men’s 
athletic underwear, aiul these would seem 
desirable, in flannel or flannel sub.stitutes, 
where more warmth is reipiired. If the 
('oming Winter gives us the same fiu'l 
and weather comlitions as the last, many 
women will have to give up thin blouses 
and gauzy umh'rwear. and dress with a 
sensible regard for the Winter .sea.son. 
Making Cottage Cheese 
Having a considerable (piantity of skim- 
milk, I have found a fair demand for 
cottage cheese, but have not as yet felt 
jx'rsonally .satisfied that it is as good as 
can be madis even though T have follow’cd 
all the sugg('.stlons that I have been able 
to find through your issues for a numhi'r 
of years. My produce lacks the creamy 
consistency that the cheese has, which is 
sold as Philadeljihia cream cheese, etc., 
even after I incorporate fresh or sour 
cream with mine. Can you tell nie what 
is used in the commercial product to ob¬ 
tain the results, also how the pimento 
chee.se is made, snappy cheese, etc.? A 
superior product of cottage clu'ese with a 
change in its flavor for variety, I am 
sure, would be a profitable side line to 
farming, but the ordinary cheese as sold 
locally is usually complained about as 
being either “dry” or “crumbly,” yet all 
directions state to drain thoroughly. 
MRS. II. n. 
You are quite right that much of the 
cottage cheese put ou the market is 
crumbly and dry. 'Phis condition is due 
to heating the curd in the whey, where 
the heating iiroci'.ss is us('d. or to the u.se 
of too much rennet where the rennet 
process is used. Soim'times the milk is 
allowed to set at too high a temperature 
when rennet is u.sed, and this also causes 
a tough curd. 'Phe following is a rule 
for making cottage chei'se that will be 
pliable and creamy ; 
G()(k 1 flavored skim-milk is the first re¬ 
quirement. Pasteurize this milk by heat¬ 
ing it in a vessel of water, doubb'-boiler 
fashion to 1(>5 degrees for 15 minutes. 
Cool milk to 70 to 75 (h'grees and add 
two teasp(X)n.s of sour skim-milk starter 
to each gallon of milk. If you ('an get 
reniK't extract, use two drops to each 
gallon of milk. If you cannot get the 
('xtract, get some Junket tablets. Try 
half a tablet to each gallon of milk. 
Either the extract or the tablet must be 
addl'd to half a cup of cold water before 
stirring it into the milk. Now let the 
milk set for IS to 24 hours at a tempera¬ 
ture not to exi'eed 75 degrees. If a 
smooth curd that breaks clean of the 
forefinger does not form in this time use 
a little more rennet next time. 'Phe next 
step -is to dump the curd into a cheese- 
('loth bag to drain. 'Pake a box and 
knock the bottom out of it and nail on 
some slats. Put the bag of curd in the 
box, place a board over the toj) and put 
on a weight to make jiressuri'. The po.si- 
tion of the bag of curd should Ix' changed 
oci'asionally whih' draining. When the 
curd has lost wlu'y enough so it handles 
nicely salt at the rate of an ounce of 
salt to four pounds of cheese. 'Phe cheese 
is then ready to pack. 
(Continued ou page 1012) 
Canning and Preserving 
Edition “K” (1918) of the Ball 
Blue Book of Canning and Preserv¬ 
ing will help you solve the food 
problem. Its 82 pages contain the 
best, tested and chosen recipes for 
every fruit and vegetable. It de¬ 
scribes the cold pack and all other 
canning methods—plainly and simply. 
Tells how to can fruit without sugar. 
It is the acknowledged authority—• 
places the experience of the most' 
successful housewives at your service. 
The Ball Blue Book has never 
been advertised before—this will be 
the only announcement in this publi¬ 
cation this season because the supply 
is limited. If you want your copy, 
better write a note or fill in the coupon 
below with your name and address— 
NOW! 
Ball Bros. Glass Mf g. Co. 
Dept. “E” Muncie, Indiana 
Enclosed find 5c in stamps for postage and 
mailing. Please send the Ball Blue Book on 
Canning and Pre.scrving, to 
Name. 
Address. 
Why not know 
it now ? 
Why wait till “eating time” 
to lind out how your pre¬ 
serves are keeping? It will 
be too late tlien to do any- 
thing. You can Just as well 
know now —when you are 
jmtting them up —that eacli 
and every jar will stay per¬ 
fect. Yotiare sure of it wlien 
you use 
LLCO 
|nn.Tali|l|. 
J (EL-KO) m 
Jumbo KinftS 
{indorsed bn Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Wide, tliick, tougli rings of extra lieavy 
(piality red rubber. It is impossible for 
an LLCO Jumbo to weaken or to let air 
through. Just as good and effective after 
Steaming iu the 
COT.I) PACK Metliod. 
If your dealer can’t supply. 
Send 60c (in stamps) for 4 dozen 
Or SI.50 for 13 dozen. Fit all standard 
Jars. A dozen gummed labels for mark¬ 
ing your jar.s, enclosed free with each 
dozen of the rings. 
Loring Lane Company 
39 Harrison Street New York City 
•••■■■■■■•■■■■■■•■■■■■la,,,,,,,,,,,,.,,,,,,,,,,,. 
Books Worth Reading 
Animal Breeding, Sliaw. l..’50 
Breeding Farm Animals, Marshall.. 1..^0 
Principles of Breeding, Davenport.. 2..W 
Cheese Making, Van Slyke. 1.75 
Business of Dairying, Lane. t.25 
Clean Milk, Winslow. 3.25 
Dairy Chemistry, Snyder. 1.00 
Dairy Farming, Michels. 1.00 
Handbook for Dairymen. Well.1 50 
Milk and Its Products, Wing.1.50 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
333 WEST 30th ST., NEW YORK. 
