The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1435 
The Home Dressmaker 
JuvEMi.E Styles. —The girls' frocks 
given in the first illustration do not show 
any remarkable change, but both suggest 
“something ditferent" in the use of fa¬ 
miliar materials. At the left is a frock 
of blue serge for a girl of eight to 12 
years. It is a straight, plain, one-piece 
dres.s, laid in two box pleats in front and 
back, as plain as a Gabrielle wrapper, 
lilue serge is a standard material this 
season, both for young and old, and this 
may be called a standardized frock. Itut it 
was given a new note by trimmings of cit¬ 
ron yellow Georgette crepe—rather r,i odd 
combination with serge. There was a 
broad folded girdle of the crepe, put on 
quite flat, and at the left of the front was 
a bunch of silk and wool flowers, partly 
crocheted and partly embroidered flat. 
Juvenile Models 
Serge 
Plaid 
she 
with 
the.se 
These flowers were in vivid coral with a 
touch of green. A circular cowl collar of 
the citron crepe had a little bunch of the 
colored flowers at one side, and both the 
collar and turn-back cuffs of the citron 
crepe were edged with silk picot of the 
same color. There was nothing in this 
dress beyond the skill of the home dre.sfi- 
luaker, yet the arrangement of the trim¬ 
ming gave it a look of style. The picot 
edge on collar and cuffs was, of course, 
done bv machine, but such a finish is 
quickly' added by a woman handy with 
the crochet hook. It is just these little 
touches that finish a dress well, and the 
home dressmaker is always wise if 
selects a simple pattern, made up 
accuracy, and then uses her skill in 
fianl touches which mark the more ex¬ 
pensive readymade garments. 
A blue serge dress of this 
style would be attractive 
with trimmings of old rose, 
the floral trimming being in 
shades of old blue, olive 
green and lemon. 
The Popular Plaid. — 
Plaids are always popular 
for children’s clothes, and 
the youngster at the right of 
the first picture shows an at¬ 
tractive use of a dark blue, 
green and red plaid. The 
skirt is kilt-pleated, the ma¬ 
terial being straight way of 
the goods. The waist had a 
tunic in tabard style in both 
front and back; this fell 
straight and square from the 
shoulders, but was cut on the 
bias. This was edged all 
around with a straight band 
of black silk, having inside 
an inch-wide pleating, also of 
black silk, turning inward. 
This panel extended alike in 
back and front, being laid 
over a lining faced with the 
idaid under the arms. The 
material used in sleeves and 
under-arm portions was not 
on the bias. The full bishop 
sleeves had turn-back silk 
cuffs edged with the pleating, 
and there was a round cowl 
collar of white Georgette, 
'rhis was a very pretty little 
frock, and it .suggests an excellent model 
for making over Uvo materials, as the tab¬ 
ard or panel tunic could be of different 
goods from the skirt and sleeves. IMain 
material could be combined with plaid or 
figured goods. 
Accordion Pleating. —There is a de¬ 
cided revival of accordion pleating, and 
it appears in many new skirts, both with 
and without an upper tunic. In the .sec¬ 
ond illustration, the figure at the left 
wears a gown of putty-colored crepe de 
chine. The skirt was accordion i)leated. 
The idain waist looks like an Eton jacket 
but this appearance was given by two 
rows of two-inch silk braid, the same 
color as the material, put on jacket fash¬ 
ion ; the bell sleeves were also trimmed 
with silk braid. Vestee and tight under- 
sleeves were of Chinese blue .silk embroid¬ 
ered in black and gold. A standing rolled 
collar of the material had a .small rolled 
scarf of blue silk around the front. The 
folded girdle of the same material as the 
dress, had a sash falling at one .side of 
the fi’ont, the ends of the sash being 
pleated into stiffened spade-shaped tips of 
the embroidered silk. This was a verj’ 
smart dress, the deep vivid blue of the 
trimming contrasting very effectively with 
the putty-colored crepe de chine. A dress 
following this model, in black crepe de 
chine, would be very desirable for an 
elderl.v oi midc.le-aged woman of quiet 
taste, using either jetted material or col¬ 
ored brocade for the trimming. The ac¬ 
cordion pleated .skirt Avould not go out of 
style readily, and if desired the round 
neck could be finished with a net tucker, 
or chemisette with high stock. 
A Tu.nic Blouse. —The central figure 
in this picture shows a tunic blouse, a 
garment that takes many different forms. 
Sometimes it is belted, sometimes straight 
as the tabard worn b.v a medieval herald ; 
it may be the color of the skirt worn with 
it. or'it may be a strong contrast. The 
blouse figured was of purple Georgette 
heavily embroidered in jet. the panels at 
front and back being edged with jet 
fringe. The long bell sleeves had scat¬ 
tered small beads at wide intervals, and 
were edged with jet fringe. This was 
worn with a black satin skirt, narrow at 
the foot, with panier draping at hips. 
Sometimes these blouses have a short pep- 
lum or an apron drapery about 10 inches 
in length; sometimes the panel is knee 
length. Satin, brocade, crepe de chine, 
crepe Georgette and other materials are 
used. Such a blouse turns a separate 
skirt into a costume, and it enables one to 
change a single dress into several, for the 
same skirt may be worn with an ordinary 
blouse, or with the tunic. 
The T’xiversal Blue Serge. —Blue 
serge has been woman’s uniform for some 
time past; everywhere one goes in New 
York, blue .serge women and olive drab 
men predominate. The figure at the right, 
however, shows a little difference with the 
accordion pleated skirt having a tunic 
shorter at the sides, and extending deeper 
in spade shape at back and front. The 
plain waist has a .stitched pleat extending 
down each side, and is fastened invisibly 
under the pleat at the left side. The 
plain stitched belt of the material has 
sash ends at the left side. Around tlu^ 
neck and cuffs of the tight sleeves was a 
band of embroidery in bright terra cotta 
crewels. There was no other trimming 
except a rolled collar at the back of white 
Georgette. 
Mii.linerv Notes. —The three figures 
in the second picture show three different 
tendencies in Winter millinery. At the 
left is a small military high toque of blue 
satin, trimmed with wide-spreading gulls' 
wings in front. In the center is a wide 
hat of black satin, with a band of burnt 
ostrich around the edge of the brim. At 
the right is a tailored turban of folded 
silk, with no trimming except a metal 
cabochon. Feather hats .seem to hold 
Improved Methods 
Demand Improved Time 
The old well has been yoked to the 
kitchen pump. Or else you have a 
towering water-tank, a reservoir all 
your own. 
Picturesque as was the old well- 
sweep, you wouldn’t think of going 
back to it. You’re gradually adding 
every mechanical aid to farm-effi¬ 
ciency. But have you a Hamilton 
Watch The jolts and jars of farm 
work do not disturb or impair its 
steady, reliable service. It’s the 
most accurate, attractive, depend¬ 
able watch our watch experts know 
how to make. Efficiency —" that’s 
its claim to your attention. 
** The Watch of Railroad Accuracy ’* 
It is painstakingly constructed to do 
just one thing efficiently. It tells 
time — true time. 
Write today for ** The Timekeeper ” 
Hamilton prices: complete cased 
watches at $30 to$155. Hamilton 
movementstofityourpresent watch 
case, $16 ($18 in Canada) and up. 
HAMILTON WATCH COMPANY 
Dept. 69, Lancaster, Pennsylvania 
Closet 
The or!gIn&l 
chemical closet. More 
comfortable, healthful, conveni¬ 
ent. Takestheplacoof all outdoor 
toilets, where germ* breed. Be 
ready for the long, cold winter. 
Have a warm, sanitary, comfort¬ 
able, oUorlesB toilet right in the 
house anywhere you want it. Don’t 
go out in the cold. A boon to 
invalids. 
GUARANTEED ODORLESS 
The germs are killed by a 
chemical in water in the 
container. Empty once a 
month as easy as ashes. 
Closet guaranteed. Thirty 
days* trial. Ask lor catalog 
and price. 
BOWE SANITARY MFQ. CO. 
Mnia 6th St., Detroit, Mich, 
Ask about Ro • San Wmehetand— 
Hot and Cold Runninic Water 
Without Plumbinir, 
Accordion Pleated Skirts and Tunic Blouse. 
their popularity : in addition to the little 
skull turbans tliere are many small hats 
with brims all made of smooth feathers. 
Flat plaques or cabochous are quite freely 
used among trimmings. It will be noted 
that the more stylish hats are never over¬ 
loaded with trimming, and nothing is 
more nnstyli.sh than a enmberous mass of 
f(‘athers or other ornaments, destroying 
the outline of the hat. 
Trimmings and Accessories. —“Vic¬ 
tory lockets.” which suddenly appeared 
in the stores, are a return to the old- 
hisliioned shell lockets that were worn 
about the time of the Civil War. They 
are flat oval lockets of real or imitation 
tortoiseshell, some plain, some decorated 
with gilt, and are attached to a shell 
chain of large open links; the locket 
opens and contains a little mirror on one 
side and a place for a picture on the 
other. They cost from .$2 up. Beads of 
ComfortMoor Closet 
Odorless—Sanitary—Germ-Proof 
Every homo without sewerage 
needs one. No plumbing or run¬ 
ning water needed. Anyone can 
install. A boon to sick people. 
Flaccd in any room in house, in 
1 town or country. 10,000 now in use. 
iU.S.Heaith Bureau Approves 
{ Says:- '^Chemical Closet compiles satis* 
I foctorily with roauiromenta of sanitary 
K stero.** AboHsn cold outdoor closet, 
itawarm ComfortToilet in your home, 
1 a guarantee of healthy, sanitary condi- 
Itlons. Has oh the latest improvements. Germ*Ufs killed Dp 
I chemicals. Emptied once a month. Needs no other atten* 
I tioD. StateBoarEiBOf Health eodorseit. Third successful year. 
Representatives Wanted Needed.' 
I Ueo DO 97 making $60 to $75 weekly. Exclusive Territory, 
FREEl HANDSOMHE CATALOGUE 
I Comfort Chemical Clotel Co.. 4322 Factories Bldg.Toledo.O. 
(Continued on page 1430) 
Farmers, Attention 
Ist—Are you using Grange Exchange Feeds 
and Grains? 
2nd Do you know that we are offering mixed 
feeds that contain no by-products ? 
3rd—The Exchange State Brands of fertilizers 
are registered and with the guaranteed 
analysis we can assure you High Quality 
and Lowest possible price. 
4 th—We have closed contracts with reliable 
firms to supply you with High Quality 
Farm and Garden Seeds, Spraying Mate¬ 
rials, Silos, Sowing Machines and we can 
supply you with anything else you want. 
Write for information. 
New York Grange Exchange, Inc. 
308 South Salfna Street SYRACUSE. N. Y. 
Valuable 
Information 
You will find valuable information 
in the following booklets—they 
are ha.sed on the latest and best 
medical knowledge. 
Nujol Laboratories 
STANDARD OIL CO. (NEW JERSEY) 
50 Broadway, New Y ork 
Send me without charge the booklet checked 
□ "THIRTY FEET OF DANGER” 
CouBtipation-auto-intoxication in adults 
□ "AS THE TWIG IS BENT” 
CoiiBtipatiou iu infancy and childhood 
□ "THE DAYS THAT GO BEFORE” 
ConHtipalion iu pregnancy and nursing 
□ "WAGES OF NEGLECT” 
Constipation as a cause of piles 
□ "AS THE SHADOWS LENGTHEN” 
Constipation in old age 
GRIMM’S Maple Syrup Evaporators 
What the GUIMM EVAPORATOR haa done for others— 
itwill do for yon—fast and shallow boiling and the siphon, 
which clariiles the liquid, produces QUALITY. We will 
Btart you on the roa<l to blsaer profit by ardnir you the benefit of 
our t'XpcrIence anti particular* about the BLST APPARATUS made. 
Prices for PURE MAPLE PRODUCTS are higher. The supply is ex- 
i—tne d€ ■ 
hauated— 
lemand 
G, H. GRIMM ESTATE 
is Increaslnfc rapidly. 
Our COMI^ETELY 
EQUIPPED evap¬ 
orator will pro¬ 
duce the best quality 
of MAPLE SYRUP. 
ORDER NOW. 
Ask for catalog 
"H" and state 
ntsmber of trees 
you tap. 
Rutland, Vt. 
Rely On Cuticiira 
For Skin Troubles 
All druggists; Soap25. Ointment 25*50, Talcnm 25. 
Sample each free oC "Cntlcnra, Dept. F, Boston." 
JUDGING FARM ANIMALS, by C. S. 
Plumb; $2.25. A Practical Manual on this 
subject. For tale by Rural New-Yorker 
