138 
Ibe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
January 2.", 1919 
The Home Dressmaker 
Flying Panel 
is 
ith 
at 
Tiie Loose Panel. —The first illustra¬ 
tion shows a blue serge dress with the 
popular loose panel at the back, a style 
seen in many fabrics and many varia¬ 
tions. As shown, a panel falls over the 
waist in both front and back, extending 
a little below hip length. It was just 
shoulder width at top. and a little wider 
below. These two panels were joined at 
the tips of the shoulders, thus making a 
straight neck line, with a little pointed 
opening at. each side. The panels were 
trimmed with black soutache braid, which 
was not mitered at the corners, but had 
the ends interwoven in basket fashion. 
The long bell sleeves were trimmed with 
the braid, and lined at the lower edge 
with black silk having narrow stripes of 
gold, this striped lining 
showing around the 
lower edge when the 
hands were lifted. The 
front panel was 
caught in at the waist 
by a sash looped over 
it, the sash b“ing fas¬ 
tened under the back 
panel so that, while 
this panel fell free, it 
could not fly out. The 
girdle was a loose j 
basket-weave belting 
of heavy black and 
gold silk. The skirt 
was of the straight 
narrow style now so 
popular, drawing in a 
little at the hem, and 
was trimmed at the 
foot with a number of 
rows of black braid. 
This was a simple 
dress, but smart and 
attractive, and we of¬ 
ten see the same nar¬ 
row skirt and falling 
panel used in messa- 
line or taffeta. Some¬ 
times the panel reaches 
almost to the bottom of the skirt. Fringe 
is often used across the bottom of such 
panels, and also to give a tunic effect to 
skii'ts. The hat worn by this figure 
a high folded toque of black satin. \v 
a curving fancy feather at the back. 
The Natty Box Coat. —The figure 
the right shows a suit with a box coat, 
now one of the most popular models, and 
one adaptable to young or older women. 
It was brown homespun with a vest of 
champagne-colored broadcloth, crossed by 
a belt of the homespun. As will be seen, 
the narrow two-piece skirt was perfectly 
plain, and tht coat had no trimming ex¬ 
cept. some ball buttons of brown celluloid 
on each side of the vest at the bottom, 
and a small military collar of raccoon. 
Such suits are often seen with high mili¬ 
tary collars of the cloth, closing with 
buttons; again, the vest is omitted, and 
the coat buttons straight up like a sol¬ 
dier’s blouse. Many of the box suits are 
trimmed with silk braid, numerous rows 
around the bot¬ 
tom of coat and 
skirt. A very 
attractive suit 
of dark blue 
was trimmed 
with black silk 
braid, and had 
a vest like the 
one pictured of 
'burgundy ve¬ 
lour. We also see 
some of these 
very plain suits 
of mahogany or 
other dark red, 
all reds being 
very popular. It 
will be noticed 
that the narrow 
skirt persists, 
in spite of pre¬ 
dictions t<>. 
contrary, 
hat worn 
this figure 
dark b rown 
satin, the upper 
side of the brim 
of straw with a 
coral and cham¬ 
pagne fane y 
feather in front. 
Check Velveteen. —In the second 
group the figure at the left shows a little 
frock of check velveteen, but the style 
was so pretty and simple that it would 
be suitable for wash materials, as well as 
light-weight woolens. The humble ging¬ 
ham would make up very prettily in this 
style—not that dress gingham is really 
a very humble fabric at the present prices. 
This dress was of gray velveteen checked 
with black. The narrow two-piece skirt 
was gathered at the back, and closed in¬ 
visibly at one side. It was slightly 
drawn in near the hem at each side 
seam, where there were two rows of sil¬ 
ver ball buttons, three in a row, along 
the seam; these buttons were laced to¬ 
gether with black silk cord. Two slant¬ 
ing set-in pockets wore finished with bias 
flaps, and trimmed with four small silver 
ball buttons with black cord loops. The 
plain waist had long tight sleeves fin¬ 
ished with bias cuffs, and trimmed with 
buttons and loops. The round neck had 
a narrow rectangular opening in front, 
filled in with tucked white Georgette; the 
neck and front opening was finished with 
a flat applied trimming of the material, 
cut on the bias, buttons and silk loops 
across opening finishing the front. The 
folded girdle was of bias material. This 
would be a pretty dress in check silk, or 
in shepherd’s check of light-weight 
woolen, as well as cotton. The hat fig¬ 
ured has a straw brim and Georgette 
crown, all of shrimp pink, and a wreath 
of flat pink velvet poppies with black 
centers. 
Skirt and Blouse.— The central fig¬ 
ure shows a separate skirt and blouse. 
The shops are now full of Summer 
clothes, for the women who gd to Florida 
or California right after the holidays, and 
we see many ideas that are helpful in 
getting Summer sewing done early. The 
skirt is white habutai 
silk, and is simply 
gathered at the top, 
with a folded girdle 
of the material. The 
skirt has a broad 
band of tucking—a 
deep tuck at the top 
and bottom and pin 
tucks between. The 
blouse worn with it is 
of white Georgette, 
trimmed with narrow 
black ribbon laid on 
flat, and faggoted down 
with red embroidery 
silk. As will be seen, 
the ribbon is laid on 
in narrow panels, and 
the round neck was 
finished with a band 
of the m a ferial, 
through which a rib¬ 
bon was run. and tied 
at one side. The cuffs 
were also trimmed 
with ribbon, one row 
faggoted on with red, 
and one row run 
through a casing of 
material, and tied in 
was a small toque of 
and Box 
a bow. 
Coat 
The hat 
black satin trimmed with a fancy feather. 
A Slip-on Blouse. —The figure at the 
right wears a dress of white jersey cloth, 
but the same idea is adaptable for other 
materials. The skirt is plain and nar¬ 
row ; the plain long blouse has a deep 
round neck and large armholes, so that 
it is easily slipped on over the head: it 
is then confined by a girdle of the same 
material. The only trimming is a large 
flat pocket on each side, embroidered in 
dull blue wool, with three woolen tassels 
at the bottom of each pocket. This slip- 
on blouse was worn over a waist of white 
Georgette crepe. The flat frill finishing 
the neck is a becoming style, now unite 
popular. The hat worn with it is a 
popular sports type, the crown and brim 
being of white satin tucked in diamonds, 
while the brim is faced underneath with 
black satin. 
1’resent Tendencies. —Tt will he 
noted that all the skirts figured are nar¬ 
row. In spite 
of predictions to 
the contrary.the 
the narrow skirt 
perists, and we 
often see such 
skirts with a 
split six or 
eight inches 
deep in the cen¬ 
ter of the back, 
to give freedom 
in walking. Such 
skirts are longer 
than the fuller 
ones, and with 
them come shoes 
that are not so 
high, and also, 
most inappro¬ 
priate at this 
season, a re¬ 
turning vogue 
of pumps or 
other low shoes 
for street wear. 
Tunics stay in 
with the tight 
skirts. There is 
a decided re¬ 
turn to frills, 
fluffiness and 
gay colors, and 
except for plain tailored suits, military 
mannishness is out of style. 
Spring Materials. —The new cottons 
include many flowered materials, often 
with irregular blossoms scattered over 
stripes and checks. Many of the silk- 
striped tissues are as handsome as silk, 
and voile is offered in bewildering variety. 
Prices are high, but no higher than last 
year. We noticed at one well-known shop 
lovely printed dimities for 3Sc a yard ; 
handkerchief muslins, 40c; dress ging¬ 
hams, 45c to .$1 ; printed voiles, 28c to 
$1.50; satin-striped and solid colored 
voiles, 58c to $1.35; printed silk and 
cotton foulards, 75c to $1.50. and silk 
striped tissue the same; bordered voiles 
of great beauty, 85c to $2.50, and printed 
silk and cotton crepe de chine, $1.25. The 
goods of American make now equal the 
imported ones in most lines, .though 
France and Great Britain are still send¬ 
ing us their old-time specialties in many 
iines. Among the voiles there are many 
variations of horizon blue and shrimp 
pink. We see some attractive sports 
(Continued on page 130) 
Three Useful Suggestions for Spring 
iH 
Carry it to the 
Cold Workshop 
Make the cold shivery workshop 
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if*. 
Mm 
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Rural New-Yorker, 333 W. 30thSt., NewYork 
