465 
The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
THE SECRET 
of Making Money Growing Potatoes 
is in planting a variety that will give you two bushels where one grew before. No extra 
expense for labor, fertilizer or Seed but double your normal crop at harvest time. 
Dibble’s Russet 
Is the variety to plant, the most disease-resistant and productive variety of the 
age, and here is the evidence to prove it. Proof from disinterested commercial 
Growers, Farmers and Experts from many States. 
Part II. 
Tomatoes. —At the North it is very 
desirable, I might say necessary, to start 
the plants in the house or hotbed, and 
transplant at least once before setting out 
in the garden. Seed should be sown from 
middle of March to middle of April, and 
be transplanted when three or four inches 
high, in flats or hotbed, where they should 
stand about four inches apart. For very 
late crop, the seed may be sown, however, 
in bills in the open ground about May 15. 
Make up bills similar to those for melons, 
on which plant half a dozen seeds, where 
you desire the plants to stand, pulling 
out all but the strongest and 'best one, 
when they get a good start. These plants 
will come into bearing about the first 
of September. Ground for tomatoes should 
be well fertilized, but not overdone, as 
excessive use of fertilizer will incline 
the plant to run too much to vine and 
be late and shy in the production of fruit. 
Since the tomato is grown exclusively 
for its fruit, fertilizers that induce a 
large growth of stem and leaves are un¬ 
suited in the production of this crop. 
As soils vary greatly in regard to the 
kind and quality of available plant food 
they contain it is hard to determine just 
what grade and how much fertilizer 
should be used until trials have been 
made. However as a general rule the 
high-grade truck-grower, applied at rate 
of about two pounds to every dozen hills 
will give good results. Fresh horse ma¬ 
nure should never be used for this crop. 
One ounce of seed will produce about 
1.500 good plants. Two ounces of seed 
will give ample plants to plant - an acre or 
more, with plants at a distance of 4x4 feet. 
Cabbage. —Of this vegetable at least 
two distinct crops are raised in every 
kitchen garden, early and late. For early 
or Summer cabbage the seed should be 
sown in the hotbed about the middle of 
February, and the plants 'be set in the 
open ground as early as the soil can be 
worked. For late crop the seed should 
be sown in a bed in the open ground the 
middle of May to June first, and plants 
set in garden in July, in rows 30 to 3G 
inches apart and 20 to 30 inches apart in 
the row. according to the variety, the 
strong growing late sorts requiring the 
larger room. A fertilizer rich in nitrogen 
is best suited to this crop, as it induces 
heavy leaf growth which is desirable in 
the making of this crop. One ounce of 
seed will give 2.000 or more good plants. 
Bush Beans. —For best results the 
soil should be inclined to light loam and 
not too rich in uitrogeuous matter, as 
the plants will make excessive growth 
of stems and foliage at the expense of the 
crop of pods. These should be planted 
in rows 24 to 36 inches apart, according 
to method employed in cultivating, 
whether hand or horse, and dropped in 
hills 10 to 12 inches apart, five or six 
seeds to the hill. The early varieties 
will come into bearing in 65 to 70 days, 
and if successive plantings are made at 
intervals of about four weeks, commenc¬ 
ing about May 10 and ending about nine 
weeks before time for killing frost in 
Autumn, a constant supply can be had 
throughout the season. 
Lima Beans. —Limas, both pole and 
bush, are one of the most desirable prod¬ 
ucts of the garden and no garden, however 
pretentious, is complete without them. 
This crop succeeds best on soil that is 
quite rich. They must not be planted 
until, the soil becomes thoroughly warm, 
or until the thermometer stands at about 
60 degrees at night. The bush sorts 
should be planted in rows 30 to 36 inches 
apart, and 18 to 24 inches apart in the 
row. The pole sorts should be planted 
in rows not less than four feet apart, and 
hills four feet apart in the rows. When 
planting the bush sorts the seeds may be 
dropped in the hill without regard to the 
position in which they lie. but with the 
large flat-seeded pole sorts the seed should 
be gently pushed into the soil iu the hill 
around the pole, edgeways with the eye 
down. Of both kinds, plant six or eight 
seeds to each hill to insure a good stand. 
When the plants have become well es¬ 
tablished thin out to about three of the 
strongest and best to the hill. One quart 
of each kind will be sufficient for 100 ft. 
of row. 
I’eas. —Peas require a rich mellow soil 
with good drainage for best results. The 
first plantings in Spring will not come 
early if planted on cold heavy soil. Sandy 
loam soils will produce earlier crops than 
clay soil. The first plantings should be 
made of such varieties as Gradus, Alaska, 
etc., and for late peas such tall-growing 
sorts as Telephone, Champion of England, 
etc., should be sown. Fertilizers that are 
rich in nitrogen should not be applied to 
the soil immediately before planting, as 
the tendency will be to produce excessive 
growth of vine at the expense of pods. 
When it is intended to have an unin¬ 
terrupted supply during their season, 
plantings should be made every ten days 
or so in the Spring months, the first 
planting being made about the middle 
of April, or earlier or later according to 
locality, and condition of soil and weather 
at that time. Peas should be sown iu 
furrows four to six inches in depth, and 
the seed covered about two inches deep, 
or less if the soil is very heavy. When 
the plants attain a height of six to eight 
inches the soil should be worked in 
around the plants until the furrow is 
filled. They should be planted in rows 
three feet apart for dwarf sorts and four 
feet apart for tall-growing sorts, and at a 
distance of two inches or so apart. One 
to two pints will be required for 100 ft. 
of row. 
Sweet Corn. —This is one of the most 
important crops grown for table use in 
the green state, and where the ground is 
available one should plan to have a con¬ 
tinuous supply from the time the first 
early sorts come in until frost. Of the 
first early sorts, such as Early Cory, can 
be planted as early as the first to third 
week in April, according to locality. Cold 
winds and frosts will probably give it a 
hard tussle, but the corn usually with¬ 
stands the attacks and makes a crop. 
About three weeks later another planting 
of this early corn should be made, and 
at the same time some large-eared variety 
such as Early Metropolitan and a late 
variety such as Stowell’s Evergreen, 
should be made. _ "u'eafter a planting 
should be made at ii.. >rvals of two or 
three weeks until July first to tenth. 
If some fine compost is available, it will 
be a great help to the young plants if 
placed in the hills. The extra early 
dwarf kinds may be planted in rows three 
feet apart, and may be planted iu drills 
at. eight to 10 inches apart in the drill, 
using a liberal quantity of seed to insure 
a good stand. If the plants are too 
thick in the row they can be thinned 
out to the proper distance apart, or it 
may be planted in hills at 30 inches 
apart.. allowing three to four stalks to 
the hill. The late tall-growing sorts 
should be planted in rows four feet apart 
and in hills three feet apart in the row, 
allowing about three stalks to the hill. 
One-half pint will plant 100 ft. of row. 
Celery. —For main crop for Winter 
use the seed should -be sown in a rich, 
well-prepared bed about the first week in 
April, and the plants set out in the gar¬ 
den along about the first of July. In the 
earlier days of gardening it was the 
practice to plant celery in trenches, which 
"'ere considerable expense to open, and 
which were later discovered to be entirely 
unnecessary. Nowadays scarcely anvone 
thinks of planting celery in a trench.' the 
planting being done in smooth, level 
ground. The plants should be set in rows 
not less than six feet apart and the plants 
six to eight inches apart in the row. 
After the plants are set there is nothing 
more to be done for about six weeks, ex¬ 
cept to go between the rows with the 
cultivator or hoe to keep the soil stirred 
and the weeds under control. This will 
bring one to about the middle of August, 
wheu the night temperature will be cooler 
and more favorable to the growth of 
celery. By that time the plants should 
be of considerable size and earthing up 
should begin. The first step in this 
operation i6 known as handling. The 
earth has been drawn up to the plants 
with the hoe; it is further drawn up 
against the plants with the hand and 
made firm enough to hold the leaves in 
an upright position. In the operation of 
earthing up care must -be taken not to 
cover the heart, as this may cause it to 
rot or to grow crooked and twisted. The 
earthing up should be done as often as 
necessary, and will probably be required 
every two or three weeks until the end of 
the growing season. Celery may be kept 
for V inter use by banking with earth 
and covering the tops five or six inches 
deep .with leaves or straw to keep it from 
freezing; or it may be removed to a cellar 
or cold frame, and reset closer together 
with roots covered with soil. Celery in 
storage must be kept cool and the stalks 
dry to prevent rotting. Celery requires 
a deep, rich, moist soil, with' plenty of 
well-rotted manure or good fertilizer and 
good cultivation to get best results. 
Manure or fertilizer high in nitrogenous 
content is well suited for its growth and 
development. 
Cucumbers. —These should be planted 
in the same manner as described for 
cantaloupes, three feet apart in the rows, 
and the rows five feet apart. Twenty to 
40 seeds should be planted in each hill, 
so there will be plenty to supply the 
ravages of the striped beetle and stem- 
borer, and still sufficient plants survive 
to make a crop. Plants should be thinned 
in the same manner as directed for can¬ 
taloupe, and from three to five plants 
allowed to remain in each hill. 
Squashes. —Ilills should be made up 
for these at the same time and in the 
same way as directed for cantaloupes. 
The principal trouble in raising these is 
caused by the striped squash-bug. but 
these can be overcome to a great extent 
by dusting the plants with slug shot iu 
early morning when the dew is on them. 
The hills for squashes should be five to 
six feet apart. Iu planting 10 or a dozen 
hills of squash at least half of them 
should be planted to a Winter variety. 
Plenty of seed should be planted in each 
hill. When any of the young plants show 
signs of wilting it is a pretty sure indica¬ 
tion of the presence of a boi r in the stem, 
and the plant should be immediately 
pulled.out and destroyed. When the plants 
are a foot high thin out to two or three to 
the hill. Those who intend establishing 
a permanent garden should make pro¬ 
vision for planting such permanent crops 
as asparagus, rhubarb, horseradish and 
small fruits, if sufficient ground is avail¬ 
able for the purpose. k. 
MASSACHUSETTS 
State Farm, Mass., Jan. 11, 1919.—The - - 
went all to pieces with the Mosiac Disease, but your 
Russets were in a sixty-acre field alongside of the dis¬ 
eased ones and came through without a scratch and 
returned us a crop of over 300 bushels per acre. If 
we had planted all Russets we would have had a crop 
of over twenty thousand bushels instead of 12.000, 
which was our crop.—Donald MacRae, Farm Director. 
Note.—Mr. MacRae has ordered 600 bushels for this 
spring's planting. 
The Russet Potatoes proved their worth many times 
over. Grown between two other varieties, the vines 
were healthy all summer and grew three weeks later, 
and yielding twice the crop that either of the others 
did.—W. B. Connor, Lenox. Mass., Oct. 26. 
The Russet Potatoes yielded twice as much as any 
other kind; tops stayed green and were free front 
blight.—Homer Keeler, Berkshire Co., Mass. 
Your Russet Potatoes made good again this year, 
producing nearly 100 per cent more potatoes than 
good Green Mountain seed from Maine, and of far 
better quality.—Edmund Mortimer, Grafton, Mass. 
CONNECTICUT 
The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station. 
New Haven, Conn., Jan. 31. 1919. Dear Mr. Dibble: 
Last year the potatoes in Southern Connecticut were 
prematurely killed by a very unusual trouble which 
we called Wilt and Prematuring. In my investiga¬ 
tions over the State. 1 ran across a number of fields 
of Dibble's Russets. In practically every field that 
I saw this variety the vines withstood the trouble. 
I observed particularly one field planted side by side 
the same day with Green Mountains and Dibble’s 
Russets. The Green Mountains died prematurely in 
July, while the Dibble’s Russets lasted into August 
and the yield was twice that of the Green Moun¬ 
tains. I am now advocating that it be grown in this 
State to see if it cannot take the place of Green 
Mountains and Cobblers, which are generally grown. 
Very truly yours, G. P. Clinton, Botanist. 
Last year we purchased your Russet, planting six 
acres, from which we dug 2,500 bushels of potatoes.— 
The Ketchin Tobacco Corporation, TarifTville. Conn. 
The Russets yielded two to one with others planted 
In the same field and withstood blight.—Elmer L. 
Mead, Seymour, Conn., Oct. 23. 
PENNSYLVANIA 
Front the Philadelphia North American, issue of 
Jan. 25th. reporting the annual meeting: Harris- 
burgh. Pa., Jan. 24. 1919.—Pennsylvania State Po¬ 
tato Tests Show Dibble’s Russet Is Winner. Experi¬ 
ments of the Pennsylvania Potato Growers’ Associa¬ 
tion made in six counties. Centre. Cambria, Schuykill. 
Lehigh. Berks and Lackawanna, show that Dibble’s 
Russet is tlie variety producing the largest yield—293 
bushels per acre. 
Think of it! The average yield of all potatoes in 
Peimsylvania last year was less than half the average 
of Dibble’s Russets. 
The Russets yielded double the amount of bushels 
of other varieties, and they were free from blight: 
they yielded two bushels wiiere there was only one of 
Sir Walter Raleigh.—J. E. Krum, Columbia Co., Pa. 
The potatoes I got of you were the finest I had. 
They doubled the crop of my other potatoes and were 
green until the frost came.—O. J. Bredbenner, Tama- 
qua. Pa. 
The Russets grew more luxuriantly: vines free from 
blight, and the yield was above 400 bushels to the 
acre.—John Heller, Conygham, Pa. 
NEW YORK 
The Russet is blight-proof and a good yielder. From 
the six barrels I dug 365 bushels of salable potatoes.— 
Ed. Wills, Central Islip, L. I. 
The Russet yield, according to measure, was 490 
bushels to the acre. Russets cannot be recommended 
too highly.—Francis A. Hunter, Middleport, N. Y., 
Dee. 2, 1918. 
The Russets planted alongside other varieties pro¬ 
duced double the yield. Their cooking quality is sec¬ 
ond to none.—W. R. Tousey, Waterport, N. Y., 
Nov. 12. 1918. 
NEW JERSEY 
The Russets, planted in the same field with different 
varieties, stayed green while the others blighted. My 
neighbors got from 25 to 50 bushels per acre of other 
sorts, and my Russets yielded a little over 200 
bushels per acre. You cannot say too much for 
them.—R. W. Harris. Delaware, N. J., Oct. 27, 19l3. 
The barrel of Dibble’s Russets I planted this spring 
yielded three times as many potatoes as other varieties 
under same conditions.—Geo. B. Neafle. Andover. 
N. J.. Oct. 14, 1918. 
From Dibble’s Russets we had, this '•“ar, a full 
crop, the best crop of potatoes I ever raised. All my 
neighbors roundabout had less than half a crop, in 
some cases only quarter of a crop. I shall certainly 
use your seed again next year.-Lloyd W. Smith, 
Madison, N. J., Nor. 14, 1918. 
The Dibble Russet Potato is the best of all va¬ 
rieties. From one barrel of seed I raised 143 bushels. 
—L. J. Hurd. Cold Spring, N. J., Nov. 4, 1918. 
These are just sample Testimonials, a few out of hundreds, from a score of States, 
we hate on file in our office. 
Dibble’s Russets are the best potatoes ever grown on the Dibble's Seed Farms. We 
offer 10,000 barrels, every bushel of which was saved from blight-free fields, at a 
price so low every reader of The Rural New-Yorker can afford to plant them this 
spring. 
Single bushel, $2.00; 165 pounds in new double-headed barrel at $5.00; standard 
sack, 165 pounds net, $4.75. Special prices on 50-100 sack lots and carloads. 
If you want to double your Potato crop, start right. Send today for Dibble's Farm 
Seed Catalog, giving several pages to Russets, Special Russet Testimonial Sheet and 
‘•money-saving price list” on all kinds of Farm Seeds. 
Address, EDWARD F. DIBBLE SEEDGROWER, Box B, Honeoye Falls, N. Y. 
HEADQUARTERS FOR FARM SEEDS. Wheat. Oats. Barley, Corn. Buckwheat, 
Peas. Soy Beans, Alfalfa. Clover and Grass Seeds, Vetch. Rape. Millet and Seed 
Potatoes. Iu any quantity up to carloads and at prices you can afford to pay. 
Note the luxuriant blight-free foliage 
