‘The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
53 
Coat I)its* mill .Juvenile Wash Frock 
A Coat Dress. —The dress shown at 
the left, in the first picture, looks like a 
jacket suit with a box coat, but it is a 
street dress made in coat style. The 
material of the model seen was mahogany 
red serge, with undersleeves and vestee 
of sand-colored Georgette crepe. The nar¬ 
row two-piece skirt has a deep hem turned 
up on the outside, and apparently but¬ 
toned in place with large Hat buttons of 
red enamel with a line of black around 
the edge. The skirt was attached to a 
lining to which the jacket was attached 
at the shoulders, falling loose elsewhere. 
The waist of the dress was merely a box 
coat, loose and plain in the back, and 
opening in the front to show a vestee, 
which fell a little be¬ 
low it. The vest of 
sand-colored Georgette, 
and the undersleeves 
to match, were accor¬ 
dion - pleated. T h e 
three-quarter sleeves 
of the coat had turn¬ 
back cutTs. and there 
was a band cuff of the 
red serge finishing the 
Georgette undersleeve. 
A narrow stitched belt 
of the serge held t.h<* 
vestee in place at the 
waist, line. The coatee 
fastened invisibly at 
one side, but there 
were buttons down 
each side of red 
enamel, similar to 
those at the hem. but. 
smaller. A round col¬ 
lar of the Georgette, 
edged with a pleating, 
finished the neck. There 
are many Spring 
jacket suits just the 
style of this dress, but 
of course they have 
long sleeves without 
undersleeves, and the 
vestee does not usually 
fall below the coat. 
The hat worn has a 
brocade crown edged 
with lisere, the trimming being a wreath 
of many-colored fruit, close up to the 
crown. This is a very popular style 
suitable to all ages. When desirous of 
some special combination of coloring one 
may often buy fruit and flowers in sepa¬ 
rate bunches, and then make them up in 
such a wreath. One very pretty wreath 
noted on a toque worn by an elderly 
woman consisted of white and purple 
violets made up with purple and green 
grapes and gooseberries. 
A Little Girl’s Frock. —The little 
girl's frock shown is so plain that one 
can hardly say there is anything new in 
it, but the trimmings are this year’s 
style, and give a pretty effect. The 
material was 
blue linen, and 
the dress was 
a plain kimo¬ 
no slip, sleeves 
and all in one. 
buttoned invis¬ 
ibly down the 
back. The 
front was cut 
out deeply, to 
show a vest 
like a man's 
shirt front of 
tucked white 
organdie with 
small buttons 
down the cen¬ 
ter. This open¬ 
ing and the 
r o u n d neck 
had a narrow 
binding of the 
material. A 
little sash was 
looped at one 
side at the 
bottom of the 
vest, on the 
turn-back 
cuffs, and on 
the ends of 
the sash were 
little clusters 
of fruit and 
leaves embroi¬ 
dered in yel¬ 
low and dull 
green, and the 
sash ends were 
finished with 
three little drop balls crocheted in yellow. 
The top of the hem had a row of coarse 
chainstitch in white. This chainstitch is 
used this Spring as a finish on many 
wash dresses, both for children and adults, 
on hems, cuffs, collars, etc.; it is pretty 
and quickly done. This dress could be 
made quite practically of rather dark 
linen, Japanese crepe or heavy cotton 
with a vestee held in place by snap fas¬ 
teners. Dark blue with rose embroidery, 
or the fashionable Victory red embroi¬ 
dered in black, pale yellow and green 
would be handsome. This is coarse em¬ 
broidery of the “peasant” type, but cross- 
stitch is also very effective. 
Three Hobrle Skirts. —The three 
dresses shown in the second picture are 
not nearly so narrow at the foot as they 
appear; the "hobble” effffeet is increased 
by the style of making. All three are 
plainly made, and show prevailing ten¬ 
dencies N in trimming. At the left is a 
very simple gown of Belgian blue taffeta. 
The skirt is narrow at the foot, and 
draped at the top so as to make panier 
pockets. Around the pockets, and at the 
bottom r<! . the skirt, is a trimming of-the 
material folded into little points. It is 
a trimming old-fashioned women used to 
make to put around aprons and on the 
edges of pillow slips, and gave a very 
pretty effect in the silk. The round 
collar and turn-back cuffs were trimmed 
in the same way. The waist was but¬ 
toned down the back, the skirt fastening 
invisibly at the side under one of the 
pockets. Waists now fasten in all sorts 
of mysterious and inconvenient ways, but 
of course no one would 
think of showing a 
• . skirt placket. The 
folded girdle fastened 
invisibly also. 
Frills and Pan- 
iers.- —The center fig¬ 
ure shows the use of 
frills of a very old- 
fashioned type; they 
are gathered on cords 
and have a raw edge. 
The gathered skirt has 
the same panier pock¬ 
ets as the first dress, 
but these pockets were 
bordered with two 
frills. The lower part 
of the skirt was slight¬ 
ly gathered in ; the 
corded frills being 
placed over this made 
it look as though the 
skirt was gathered on 
the cords. The waist 
was a plain surplice 
model, the ends of the 
cross-over being tied 
in the back in a bow 
that pointed straight 
up and down, instead 
of across. The mate¬ 
rial of this dress was 
midnight blue taffeta ; 
the hat a tall toque of 
black satin with a 
square lisere crown. The sleeves had 
little frills that made the lower part, also 
finished with a frill, look like under- 
sleeves. 
Blue axd Cerise. —At the right is an¬ 
other costume of midnight blue taffeta, 
but brightened by little touches of cerise. 
The straight skirt, gathered at the waist, 
h^d six cords, slightly drawing it in to 
make it narrower at the bottom. The 
plain waist, cut square at the neck, has 
a box pleat at the back, slightly wider at 
the bottom than the top. A little fold 
of cerise extends down each side of this 
pleat, which is also trimmed with groups 
of dark blue buttons. An inverted box 
pleat down the front has the cerise fold 
and buttons 
also. The sash, 
tied in a large 
bow in the 
b a e k. was 
lined with 
cerise, which 
showed in the 
bow and ends, 
and also gave 
a touch at one 
side where the 
girdle was 
f o 1 d e d. The 
sleeves were 
gathered in 
with two cords 
to form a cuff, 
the frill at the 
wrist being 
lined with 
cerise. The hat 
is a toque of 
fine straw, 
having a fold¬ 
ed tarn effect, 
with a little 
sickle - shaped 
fancy feather 
near the front 
at the lower 
side. 
Spring 
Fabric s.— 
They all seem 
very expensive 
to the woman 
o f moderate 
means, espe- 
c i a 11y the 
woolens. Beau¬ 
tiful f otch tweqds were noted at $4 to 
$0 a yard, but they “wear forever,” one 
may almost say. Jersey cloth at $5.50 a 
yard is another favorite material for 
suits. There are many of the knitted 
fabrics under a variety of names, used 
for coats, skirts, suits and gowns, both 
silk and wool. These knitted dress goods 
are a result of war conditions. The 
great cloth-weaving centers of France are 
in the devastated areas, where the enemy 
has looted and destroyed the factories. 
In other sections there are great knitting 
mills, and the French, with their usual 
ingenuity, began to knit dress goods in¬ 
stead of weaving them. These fabrics 
have a beauty of color and richness of 
texture that has quickly made them ex¬ 
tremely popular and fashionable. It is 
interesting to study these beautiful 
French fabrics in the window of a Fifth 
Avenue shop, and then in another win¬ 
Tlivce Examples of the Present Skirt 
dow, look at an exhibit of German substi- 
tutes made of paper. Shades of blue and 
brown ' n ad among our new materials, the 
brown mnging from havana to a silvery 
sand color, and the blue including soft 
poilu and cadet shades, as well an the 
darker tones. There are several shades 
of brilliant red, terra cotta and garnet, 
and all reds are very popular. In cottons 
English prints are to be very fashionable. 
They are as fine and smooth as taffeta, 
and show quaint, old-fashioned designs; 
the price, however, is not as modest as 
the fabric, being around a dollar a yard 
and over. They are usually printed with 
quaint little bunches of flowers on a con¬ 
trasting ground. Bordered voile and or¬ 
gandie is $1.49 a yard; the organdy is 
woven with cotton embroidery, the voile 
with artificial silk. Some very fine 
printed voiles at $1.25 a yard look like 
chiffon. 
Dress Accessories. —Many one-piece 
dresses have a Grecian cord girdle, some¬ 
times a heavy rope of silk, sometimes 
twisted or plaited material. Many girdles 
are mere shoestrings as to width. 
A separate slip-on vestee makes a plain 
gown quite dressy. Such vestees are 
made long enough to come .down to a tab [ 
below the waist, and are all in one with 
the collar; they are slipped on over the 
dress, and held in place by the belt 
Brocaded silks are much used for these 
vestees. 
Pleatings or-. Pierrette frills in color 
are a favorite collar on round-necked 
dresses. Many of the Spring blouses 
show a frill at the neck also. Pleatings 
of vivid Victory red have been especially 
popular, also various shades of yellow. 
Among the new hats are some with 
extremely shallow crowns, not over three 
inches high, melon-shaped, the straight 
narrow brim having a large pompon or 
plume laid on it at the back. They look 
rather absurd, like many new modes. 
hoNOR'Bilt 
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Self-Oiling Power Pumps. Working 
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Hydro-Pneumatic Pumps and Self-^ 
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3^0 Fourth St. Ashland, Ohio 
FOR EVERY PURPOSE 
Let’erRain 
TOWESs 
Molasses Cake.—One-half cup shorten¬ 
ing, one cup molasses, one-fourth cup 
sugar, one cup water or coffee, one-half 
teaspoon salt, one teaspoon each of gin¬ 
ger, cinnamon and saleratus, 2% cups; 
flour. Bake in a sheet or dripping pan. [ 
Eggless Loaf Cake.—One cup sugar, 
one-half cup butter, one teaspoon cinna¬ 
mon, one-half teaspoon cloves, one tea¬ 
spoon saleratus, one cup sour or butter¬ 
milk, one cup raisins, two cups flour. 
Bake about an hour in moderate oven. 
Eggless Loaf or Layer Cake.—One cup 
sugar, three tablespoons butter, one cup 
milk, a pinch of salt, two heaping tea¬ 
spoons baking powder, two cups flour. 
Flavoring to taste. This cake may be baked 
in an angel cake tin or it makes a two- 
layer cake. By varying flavorings and 
fillings this recipe is a foundation for 
mauy kinds of cake. My husband says 
if cake as good as this can be made 
without eggs, why ever use any eggs for 
cake? A. W. C. 
FISH BRAND 
SLICKERS 
will keep 
you dry as 
nothing 
else will 
POMMELS 
REFLEX SLICKERS 
MEDIUM COATS 
FROCKS 
SUITS 
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A. J. TOWER CO. — — BOSTON. 219 
Trap Nest 
Records 
TX/E have had printed 
on cardboard 1134x7 
neat and complete trap- 
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both sides—25 each side. 
Will send 12 for 10c. 
W. F.W., care Rnral New-Yorker 
333 West 30th Street. New York 
A 
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J fakers of the . Address 
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