The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
- .... i 
593 
The Home Garden 
Border of Shrubs and Herbaceous Plants 
As an amateur I come to you for ad¬ 
vice regarding shrubbery and flowers 
which I wish to plant in order to beautify 
the grounds surrounding my home. I en¬ 
close a sketch, giving an idea as to the 
general layout. In Plot A (a and b) I 
wish to plant flowering shrubs, so ar¬ 
ranged and chosen that they will be pleas¬ 
ing to the eye and have as long a succes¬ 
sion of bloom as possible. Plot A has 
sunlight only in the afternoon, “a” sec¬ 
tion having the most, while “b” section is 
always quite shady. I was thinking of 
evergreen shrubs, such as laurel and Rho- 
dodrendron, and deciduous shrubs such as 
Hydrangea. Deutzia, dogwood. Viburnum, 
honeysuckle and Rugosa roses. I do not 
care for such as barberry. Frankly, I 
know nothing about these shrubs, their 
spacing, how to arrange, which are high 
or low growing, and which can stand the 
most shade so far as section “b” is con¬ 
cerned. In Plot B on the other side of the 
6-ft. lattice fence I wish to plant hardy 
perennials, but am doubtful about their 
thriving, due to the little sunlight they 
will get on the shady side of the fence. 
What say you? In the flower boxes sur¬ 
mounting the lattice fence I intend to 
have Petunias, snapdragons and sweet 
peas. Have you any suggestions? I in¬ 
tend to plant some kind of rose to grow 
over lattice arch. What variety would 
you suggest? In plot C I am thinking of 
planting a number of evergreen bitter¬ 
sweet to grow against the house, which 
is of brick and stucco. Does this vine 
cling like ivy. or must it have supports? 
Syracuse, N. Y. n. c. H. m. 
The plan submitted herewith is not as 
accurate in measurements and detail as I 
wish, but when measurements are not fully 
given or a sketch drav. _ to scale accom¬ 
panies the inquiry it is quite impossible to 
make a plan accurately to scale. However, 
the scale given is near enough to enable N. 
C. H. M. to lay out these borders and to 
plant them properly. The various shrubs 
and plants mentioned in the planting lists 
are intended more as a suggestion as to 
how the various items can be arranged 
than a fixed and unalterable guide as to 
what must be planted. There.'ore, if auy 
of the varieties suggested do not meet 
with your entire approval, others can be 
selected to take their place, which can be 
easily done by consulting nurserv or 
plantmen’s catalogues. I do not think 
you will find it practical to handle flower 
boxes on top of the lattice fence. In the 
hot. dry part of Summer these boxes will 
require watering every day or nearly every 
day, and to do this you will have to walk 
across and through the flower or shrub 
border. The ground among the plants 
would become very hard and more damage 
done to the plants in the borders than any 
pleasure you can get out of the flower 
boxes could possibly compensate you for. 
However, if you do have them. I would 
•suggest you use the dwarf small flowered 
Petunias. Sweet peas would not suc¬ 
ceed at all in such boxes, and snapdrag¬ 
ons only partially. 
You cannot use the true bittersweet to 
grow against the house unless some kind 
of support is given it, as it is a twining 
plant and will not cling to a perpendicular 
wall. Euonymus radicans vegetus is a 
self-supporting plant, and will cling to 
any rough surface without support. This 
is a beautiful evergreen and perfectly 
hardy plant 
The climbing roses mentioned are the 
best of this class, perfectly hardy and 
long lived. They will give entire* satis¬ 
faction. The shrubs select 7 for planting 
near the poplar trees all succeed well in 
shady situations. However, Kalmias and 
Rhododrendrons may be substituted if 
you prefer them. Plant native sorts, as 
they are more hardy. 
Two or three nice evergreens planted on 
the lawn in from of the shrub border will 
no doubt be helpful in further beautifying 
the grounds. I have designated places for 
them, and if the lawn will not be too 
much Crowded would suggest they be 
planted of the following varieties: A, 
Colorado blue spruce; B, Retinispora 
plumoss aurea. golden arborvitae. 
HERBACEOUS BORDER 
Planting No. 
1 
Alyssum saxatile compactum 
2 
Baptism australis 
o 
o 
Boltonia latisquama nana 
4 
Coreopsis lanceolata grand- 
iflora 
5 
Mentensia Virgiuica 
6 
Delphinium Belladonna 
7 
Lychnis Chalcedoniea or red 
Phlox 
8 
Dielytra spectabilis 
0 
Helenium Riverton Gem 
10 
Hemerocallis flava 
11 
Iris Germanica 
12 
Lobelia cardinalis or tall 
pink Phlox 
13 
Statice latifolia 
14 
Sweet William 
15 
Hibiscus, new Giant-flower¬ 
ing 
16 
Aster Novse Anglise rosea 
17 
Hardy Chrysanthemums 
IS 
Iris. Japan 
19 
Oriental poppy 
20 
Plat.veodon, or tall white 
Phlox 
21 
Shasta daisy. Alaska 
oo 
Trollius eaueasicus, “Orange 
Globe” 
23 
Pmonies 
24 
Aconituin Fiseherii 
25 
Planting No. 
Aquilegia, long-stemmed hy¬ 
brids 
SHRUB BORDER 
1 
Lilac, vulgaris purpurea 
‘) 
Deutzia Pride of Rochester 
O 
O 
Viburnum opulis sterilis 
4 
Althaea double pink 
5 
1 ’hiladelplius grandiflorus 
6 
Lilac, vulgaris purpurea 
7 
Althaea double white 
S. 8. S 
Corn us florid a 
9 
Cornus. red flowering 
10. 10. 10 
Spiraea Anthony Waterer 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
11 
12. 12 
Deutzia gracilis 
13. 13 
Spiraea callosa alba 
14. 14 
Spiraea. Van Ilouttei 
15.15 
Lilac. Persian pink 
16.16 
Weigela nana variegata 
17 
Weigela rosea 
18 
Forsythia Fortunei 
19 
Rosa rugosa rubra 
20 
Forsythia intermedia 
2L 21. 21. 21 
Ceanothus Americanus 
oo oo oo oo 
Hydrangea arboreseeus ster- 
23. 23 
ms 
Symphoricarpus raeemosa 
24, 24, 24, 24 
Hydrangea paniculata gran- 
diflora 
Vines 
Planting No, 
25 6 Euonymus radicans vege¬ 
tus 
CLIMBING ROSES 
Planting No. 
26 Dr. Van Fleet, Dorothy 
Perkins and Excelsa. 
planted about five feet 
apart. k. 
Eradicating Moneywort from Lawns 
On page 422 Mrs. S. H. C. complains 
that her lawn is badly infested with 
moneywort, otherwise known as yellow 
myrtle, and asks for a practical method 
of eradication without plowing and mak¬ 
ing over the lawn. The best method is to 
spray the weed with a solution of sulphate 
of iron, commonly known as copperas. 
About two pounds should be dissolved in 
a gallon of water, and, while a spray 
pump throwing a mist spray under con¬ 
siderable pressure is the more economical 
implement to use, equally good results 
will follow if the mixture is sprinkled 
on with an ordinary watering pot. In a 
few hours the leaves will turn brown, be¬ 
come dry, and, apparently, the plants will 
be dead. The ground should then be well 
raked with a steel-toothed rake and lawn 
grass sown and well raked in. Quite 
likely the myrtle will soon start again 
from the roots; but, if so, repeat the op¬ 
eration, and ' continue to repeat it until 
the weed is completely killed. I have 
never had occasion to repeat it more 
than four times. It will be noticed that 
the leaves of the myrtle ,.re broad, slightly 
hairy, and that the ribs run transversely. 
Hence the spray is retained upon the 
leaves until it has had time to kill them. 
On the contrary, the leaves of the grasses 
are narrow and upright, and with longi¬ 
tudinal ribs, so that the spray will fall 
to the ground without doing auy damage. 
The cost of the sulphate of iron, if bought 
at a drug store, will probably be 10 cents 
or more a pound. If bought at wholesale 
the normal price is around $1 per 100-lb. 
sack. Blue vitriol used in the same man¬ 
ner will do the work just as well, but is 
a trifle more expensive. Any of the com¬ 
mercial weed-killers will destroy the plant 
just as well, but no better, and they are 
a good deal more expensive. Besides, 
their basis is arsenate of soda, which is a 
deadly poison, and not always desirable 
to use on a lawn. Salt, either dry or in 
solution, will kill it. But salt' works 
upon the rootlets and enough must be ap¬ 
plied to saturate the ground, and it will 
kill all other lawn vegetation also, until 
the rains have washed it from the soil. 
The same is true of kerosene. 
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t 
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