608 
Toe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
April 5, 1019 
SPRAYERS and GARDEN TOOLS 
ACCURATE SEEDING, thorough cultivation and efficient 
spraying will make your garden yield better returns and 
larger profits. The SUREST WAY to CASH IN on your 
garden or orchard is to use Hudson Sprayers and Garden Tools. 
Hudson Sprayers 
Whether your requirements are large or small, 
there is a Hudson Sprayer to meet your needs. 
No. 202—Pint size . 
No. 4512—Quart size 
The most complete line of Sprayers manu¬ 
factured. Write for Hudson Catalog No. 14H 
and our booklet— 
“When, What and How to Spray” 
They are both free and will help you make money. 
No. 110G—Galvan¬ 
ized Tank . . $7.50 
No. 110B—B r a s s 
Tank 
. . 10.50 
Hudson Garden Tools 
Hudson Garden Tools are furnished in any 
combination desired, either as Single-Wheel 
Seeders and Drills, 
or Double - Wheel 
Hoes, Plows or Culti¬ 
vators. All attach¬ 
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changeable and 
may be attached or 
detached as your 
needs require. For 
accuracy, simplicity, 
easy operation, long 
service and profit¬ 
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Hudson Garden 
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No. 201—Complete as shown.$18.00 ?l°g No. 14£ show- 
No. 205—Same as above, less Cultivator Attachments, 1400 * n S complete line 
If your dealer does not carry Hudson Sprayers and Garden Tools, order direct from 
HUDSON MFG. CO., 330 Third Avenue, Minneapolis, Minn., U. S. A. 
The "OSPRAYMO” 
Line means High Pres¬ 
sure and High Pressure spells Crop 
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Automatic Agitation and Suction 
Strainer Cleaners prevent clogged 
nozzles. 
By spraying you bring the foliage 
to full maturity and Double the Yield. 
Write for FREE catalog. 
Field Force Pomp Co.. Dept. 2 , Elmira, N.T. 
—Protects From 
Bugs, Blight and Rot 
“They Didn't 
Rot This Year” 
‘Heretofore my tomatoes all rotted. 
This year they did not for I used Pyrox. 
Heretofore bugs destroyed the vines but this year they did 
not after I used Pyrox.’ J. S. Arthur, Beckwith, W.Va. 
“The Spray 
that Adds to 
Your Profits’' 
Pyrox kills bugs and worms, prevents rots 
and blights, invigorates the plants, increases 
the yield, and improves the quality. 
At the Virginia Experiment Station, toma¬ 
toes sprayed with Pyrox produced 291 bushels 
per acre. The unsprayed field yielded only 94 
bushels per acre. 
Get this Pyrox Crop Book. It tells how to P ro * 
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for a copy today. A postal card will bring it. 
Insecticide Company 
Chatham St.. Boston 1002 Fidelity Bl dg., Ba ltimore 
Orchard and Small Fruits 
Pennsylvania Fruit Notes 
The Farm Orchard. —The 100-tree 
farm orchard scheme is. a good one for 
Pennsylvania farmers in general. Many 
farmers, it is true, have more than this 
number of fruit trees, but as a rule the 
family fruit supply of the average Penn¬ 
sylvania farm is deficient, either in quan¬ 
tity or quality. I have always been an 
enthusiastic advocate of the farm orchard, 
though at present interested iu the suc¬ 
cess of a commercial orchard. If there 
is anyone that deserves a plentiful supply 
of good fruit, surely it is the farmer and 
his family, and there is no surer way to 
have it than to produce it yourself. If 
there is any surplus it can almost always 
be sold in the local market and the total 
expense of the orchard can often be met 
in this way. The following list of varie¬ 
ties is suggested as suited to the latitude 
of Central Pennsylvania. The list covers 
a wide range as to season of ripening, 
color and taste of fruit: 
Apple. —Early Harvest, 2; Summer 
Rambo, 2; Smokehouse, 2; Wealthy, 2; 
Grimes Gokleu, 2; Delicious, 2; Golden 
Pippin, 2; Fallawater (Pound), 2; Bald¬ 
win, 8; Staymore Winesap, 8; Winter 
Sweet Paradise, 2; R. I. Greening, 2; 
Mammoth Black Twig, 2; York Imperial, 
2; total, 40. 
Peach. —Alexander, 2 ; Carman, 4 ; 
Georgia Belle, 8; Elberta, 8; Capt. Ede, 
4; Late Crawford, 4; Fox Seedling. 4; 
Beers Smock, 8; total. 42. 
Pear. —Le Conte. 1; Bartlett, 1; 
Idaho, 1; Flemish Beauty, 1; Worden 
Seekel, 1; Kieffer, 1 ; total, 6. 
Cherry. —Early Richmond, 1; Mont¬ 
morency, 1; Black Tartarian, 1; Gov. 
Wood, 1; Yellow Spanish, 1; Windsor, 
1; total, 6. 
Plum. —Abundance, 1; Green Gage 
(Reine Claude), 1; Lombard, 1; Italian 
Prune, 1; Yellow Egg, 1; Damson, 1: 
total, 6. Grand total, 100 trees, which, 
if in a thrifty condition, would be a credit 
to any farm. 
Quinces. —I have not included quinces 
in the above list. They are a flue fruit 
when you have them, but like hens' teeth, 
are rather scarce in this section. Time 
was when about every farmhouse yard 
had several quince trees, which bore fruit 
iu abundance. But the last five or 10 
years has seen these tret's diseappear one 
by one, many of which had been standing 
for a generation or two. Quince orchards 
set with nursery trees in the meantime 
have gone the same road. Fire blight is 
the trouble, though the borer is also very 
destructive at times. Armed with a 
pocket knife, the latter can be made to 
throw up his hands, but the blight is 
differout. Cutting it. out has some effect 
on blighted apple trees, but not so with 
quinces. Now let some good man rise up 
and tell us how to grow quinces and we 
will hail him as a public benefactor. 
Apricots. —This is another delicious 
fruit which it is difficult to grow. The 
trees are rather delicate and newly set 
trees need careful handling to keep them 
alive. I have not had much success with 
them so far. Still, I occasionally see 
large, thrifty apricot trees standing about 
farm buildings, generally on the shady 
side. Iu fact, I believe an apricot tree 
should have some protection, both from 
the West winds and from the direct rays 
of the sun. The fruit buds are very 
liable to winter-kill or succumb to Spring 
frosts just at blooming time. They are 
more tender than peaches and, besides, 
bloom earlier. Iu order to retard the 
blooming period some people advocate 
placing boards on snow or frozen ground 
in early Spring "to keep the frost in.” 
This will do little or no good if the sun’s 
rays strike the fruit buds, hence the sug¬ 
gestion to plant the tree iu a shady 
place. 
The Mild Winter. —Just what effect 
the mildest Winter iu years will have on 
the fruit crop this season remains to be 
seen. Certainly it has had its advan¬ 
tages. More work has been done in the 
orchard and on the farm than is usually 
accomplished during the Winter season. 
Some farmers bear the distinction of hav¬ 
ing plowed every mouth during the Win¬ 
ter, though much of the time the ground 
was either frozen or too wet. Mice and 
rabbits did little damage as compared to 
last Winter, when they played havoc in 
some orchards. The mild weather has 
kept tender fruit buds iu a more or less 
"swollen” condition. One severe night 
in January badly damaged the peach buds 
in some exposed places. Whether insects 
will be more destructive this season is a 
matter to be decided later. Oue would 
think they were bad enough last season 
after an unusually cold Winter. Apple 
trees show a splendid setting of fruit 
spurs after the light crop of last season. 
Pennsylvania. david plank. 
Peach Trees and Cold Weather 
Which is the more susceptible to cold, 
peach trees that are thrifty, having made 
a big growth the previous season, or those 
which are somewhat stunted because of 
lack of nutrition and which have made 
but little growth? My observation is 
that the vigorous tree (or its fruit buds) 
is more easily frozen, but some well- 
informed men say otherwise. 
Pen nsy 1 vania. david plan k. 
We put this up for a discussion, and 
we expect, to have many and varied 
opinions. In our own experience the 
tree making only a moderate growth, but 
ripening its wood early, has proved most 
resistant to freezing. When our trees 
have been cultivated too late in the sea¬ 
son and fertilized heavily, they make a 
late growth which does not ripen well 
and is often badly injured. We have 
seen trees growing in a field where early 
potatoes followed by cabbage were planted 
—both crops being highly cultivated and 
fertilized. Such trees made a wonderful 
growth, but were ofteu frozen. On the 
other hand, a neglected tree in sod or 
poorly cultivated or fertilized will make 
but little growth and will prove too 
feeble to resist severe cold. The most 
resistant tree we have found is one mod¬ 
erately fertilized and cultivated up to 
about July, and then left with a cover 
crop. There will be a short growth of 
sound wood which will ripen fully. 
Raising Seedling Strawberries 
Will Prof. Massey give me detailed in¬ 
structions ou how to grow seedling straw¬ 
berries, including the saving of the seed? 
I have been trying to grow some for two 
or three years, and have not been able 
to get a plant. In this valley, as you 
may be aware, we grow only one variety, 
Clark’s Seedling, which originated near 
Portland 30 or more years ago. It is a 
very fine berry as grown in this valley, 
and ships to St. Paul, Chicago, Salt 
Lake, etc., but of recent years it seems 
to me that the yield is falling off. As 
no other variety is acceptable to our 
shipping association I have been trying, 
as stated above, to raise some seedlings 
of it, thinking that the productiveness 
might be increased. My method has been 
to press ripe berries in blotting paper 
and dry the pulp behind the kitchen 
range, where the heat is not excessive; 
then when dry rub out the seed and sow 
them in flats in the cold frame, but no 
results. I mention Prof. Massey because 
I have a great deal of confidence in his 
judgment on such matters. f. f. 
1 Ilood River, Ore. 
I have grown a great many seedling 
strawberries when engaged in experiment 
station work. I have had no difficulty 
in the growing, but the majority of my 
seedlings, while good, showed no superior¬ 
ity over varieties we already had, and 
hence were never named. My practice is 
to let the berries get very ripe on the 
plants, preferring to get seed from pis¬ 
tillate varieties that were fertilized by 
the best perfect-flowered varieties. These 
ripe berries were thoroughly rubbed to a 
pulp and spread to dry on paper. When 
well dried the pulp with the minute seed 
was rubbed up fine and all sown at once 
in flats of mellow soil in a shaded green¬ 
house, the seed being pressed into the 
soil and a little very fine sandy soil sifted 
over, but hardly covering the seed. Then 
the seed flats were eovejped with panes of 
glass to prevent drying out. I should 
have said that I wet the soil before sow¬ 
ing. The seedlings are watched closely 
as they germinate, air is given and the 
glass on the boxes removed. As soon as 
large enough they were potted in 2%- 
inch pots, and these pots usually were 
filled with roots by middle of September. 
The plants were then set in the open 
ground in hills three feet each way, and 
made very strong plants, which fruited 
iu profusion in the Spring. If you have 
no greenhouse you should he able to start 
the seed in a frame with glass white¬ 
washed and the seed in flats as iu the 
greenhouse. They have a better chance 
in the greenhouse. w. F. massey. 
* 
