The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
693 
A Vermont Farm Orchard 
I have been very much interested in 
your scheme for home orchards, but believe 
that 100 is too many; 50 tree's of all 
kinds, apples, pear, plum and cherries, 
would be ample for any farm* not growing 
a commercial orchard. Our experience 
has been along this line. Our old orchard 
was too large. We were continually neg¬ 
lecting our Fall work on farm* to attend 
to fruit for market. At that time of year- 
labor was hard to get, and consequently 
something had to be neglected, and while 
we always took Care of the fruit, which 
was money right in hand, I came to feel 
that in the end it was a losing game. 
Now the old orchard is about, gone, hn'd 
we have* set a young one, as ‘follows: 
Apples—Two Greenings, two Spy, two 
Baldwin, two Green’s Baldwin, two Mc¬ 
Intosh, one each Wagener, Fameuse, Fall 
Pippin, Yellow Transparent, Shiawassee 
Beauty, Wealthy, Duchess of Oldenburg, 
Pear—Two Bartlett, one each Sheldon, 
Worden Seckel, Clapp, Duchess. Crab 
apple—One each Transcendant, Hyslop, 
All standard trees. Between tnese the 
following: Plums—Two each Lombard, 
Peine Claude: one each Niagara, Brad¬ 
shaw, Grand Duke, York State Prune, Oc¬ 
tober Purple, Blue Damson, Shropshire 
Damson. Cherries—Two each Early Rich¬ 
mond, English Morello, Montmorency, 
Black Tartarian. 
There are many choice varieties of 
cherries and plums that are not hardy 
here, and also many apples and pears that 
are much to be desired, but not suitable 
to this climate and soil. All of these va¬ 
rieties are proven in this section and will 
give variety and quantity for any family, 
and enough to spare for our city friend's, 
and such an orchard is not large enough 
to hinder the regular farm work. I note 
that the correspondent from Maine wants 
to know about setting trees on ledge. Such 
conditions in this section have been just 
about ideal. Trees have flourished and 
done remarkably well. Our ledges are 
limestone, and all trees seem to flourish 
on them. The soil is a clay loam. 
Addison Co., Yt. c. A. chapman. 
Suggestions for Handling the Peach 
Orchard 
Pruning. —Owing to the stress of work 
the peach orchard, on many farms, has 
been neglected for the past one or two 
seasons. There were no prospects for a 
crop a year ago, the buds having been 
killed, and the owner “let the orchard go” 
so as to devote his time to raising food 
cropfcF^Now the question is, how shall 
the orchard be handled this season? Is 
it worth “bothering with?” Many young 
orchards have not produced a crop; such 
orchards should, if they made any growth 
at all last season, be cared for this sea¬ 
son. If there are not live fruit buds the 
trees may be cut back rather severely 
to induce healthy new wood for next 
year’s crop. Otherwise give them a mod¬ 
erate pruning, opening up the center and 
heading back the upper limbs. Give them 
a dormant spray if the buds are not too 
far advanced. Plow the orchard and bar*- 
row during the Summer; probably it will 
be necessary to grub the grass and weeds 
away from the base of the trees. 
Fertilizer. —These peach trees must 
be started into vigorous growth. Nitrate 
of soda, applied at the rate of 150 pounds 
per acre, or at least a pound for each 
mature tree, should be used when growth 
starts. Experiments have shown that 
in most peach orchards nitrogen is the 
most important element needed. Then a 
second application should be made early 
in the Summer, about the time the “June 
drop” occurs, or just before that time. 
It is better to make two applications of 
nitrate of soda than to apply it all at one 
time. Even if there is not a prospect for 
a crop this season the orchard should be 
cultivated and fertilized. Many trees, 
which otherwise would die, can be saved 
for a few seasons by one or two applica¬ 
tions of nitrate of soda. Younger peach 
trees should have smaller amounts of 
nitrate, one-year-old trees about a quai-ter 
of a pound, increasing this amount for 
older trees. A high-grade commercial fer¬ 
tilizer may be used, but it is expensive. 
Stable manure may be used, but this will 
not altogether take the place of the nitrate 
to start the trees early in the season. 
Cover Crops. —If the season is nor¬ 
mal cultivation can stop early in August 
and a cover crop be sown, but if it is dry 
and the orchard is carrying a good crop, it 
would, in many cases, pay to continue the 
cultivation until .the latter part of the 
month. Crimson or Alsike clover, rye, or 
rye and vetch may be used for the cover 
crop. Orchards which were cut back se¬ 
verely last Spring, and made a good 
growth of new wood, should be pruned, 
care being taken to thin out the new 
growth and develon a spreading tree. 
The Old Orchard.—A n old orchard 
which was not pruned last season, and 
which shows considerable dead wood, with 
few or no fruit buds, may be pulled out. 
clearing the land for some other crop: or 
it may be wise to give a heavy cutting 
back, cultivate and fertilize it with the 
idea that it will produce one or more good 
crops of fruit. An old peac-h orchard 
must be taken care of or else it should be 
pulled out at once. At least one Summer 
spraying should be given, applying self- 
boiled lime and sulphur with arsenate 
added, just as the “shucks” have fallen. 
A second spraying when the fruit is half 
grown is advised. Dusting is quicker, 
but we don’t all have dusters. 
S. P. HOLLISTER. 
Connecticut Agricultural College. 
t%'l Cl 
Bpl 
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The Rural New-Yorker 
333 W. 30th St.. New York 
