890 
May 24, 1019 
The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
The Home Dressmaker 
Ruffles in Moire. —The figure shown 
at the left in the first picture wears a 
gown of brown moire, oddly trimmed 
with corded ruffles. There is the usual 
narrow skirt, trimmed with three narrow 
ruffles, the first forming a semi-circle 
directly in front, the second above it 
curving down to the sides, while the one 
at the top goes all around the skirt, 
curving nearer the hem at the back. A 
rounded tunic is edged all around with 
two ruffles, which are continued up on 
the waist, where the two. ruffles are curved 
ke those at the bottom of the skirt. 
The waist fastens invisibly down the 
shoulder and under the 'arm, and has 
long, close sleeves. The only other trim¬ 
ming is the deep round collar and turn- 
■ck cuffs of heavy cream-colored lace. 
There was a plain narrow girdle of the 
material. This is 
a very simple 
dress, but an ex¬ 
ceedingly effective 
model. The nar¬ 
row ruffles, gath¬ 
ered on a cord, 
are very popular 
this season. 
A Straight- 
line Model.— 
The dress at the 
right in this illus¬ 
tration shows a 
becoming style for 
a plump figure, 
the effect being 
that of a redin- 
gote, although the 
waist and skirt 
are made sepa¬ 
rately. The close, 
plain two-piece 
skirt has a loose 
panel at each 
side, falling al¬ 
most to the bot¬ 
tom of the skirt. 
The panel gives 
the effect of be¬ 
ing full skirt 
length, though it 
must be a little 
shorter, or it is 
likely to be in¬ 
convenient. These 
panels had three 
narrow tucks all down the edge, the skirt 
being the same in the back as the front, 
except for the vestee. The waist was open 
in an inverted V. widest at the waist, 
and coming together at the top. The 
waist had the same sort of V in the back, 
but was all of the dross material, a soft 
brown wool taffeta, while the vestee was 
a darker shade of jersey cloth. The 
waist bloused over the “shoestring” belt, 
the fullness falling loosely without stick¬ 
ing out. A great many waists blouse in 
this way; many jacket suits, also, show 
the Russian blouse effect. The long close 
sleeves were finished |g’ith tucks at the 
wrists, and there was._a little old-fash¬ 
ioned round collar of white organdie. 
This dress would be smart and dignified 
for an elderly woman, or for any stout 
figure. Instead of tucks, braid might be 
used down sides 
of waist and 
panels. It would 
be an acceptable 
model for linen or 
heavy wash goods. 
The hat worn 
with it is one of 
the boat - shaped 
turbans, higher at 
the back, now 
popular. The dot¬ 
ted veil has now 
returned to favor; 
chenille dots of 
the old style are 
much in vogue. 
Some of the new¬ 
est veils are mid¬ 
night blue in¬ 
stead of black. 
Striped Linen. 
—In the second 
picture, the figure 
at the left shows 
a very pretty 
dress of striped 
linen. and the 
same model would 
be desirable in 
tissue or voile, or 
any striped cot¬ 
ton material. The 
plain two - piece 
skirt was given a 
panel effect in the 
front by two ap¬ 
plied box pleats cut with the stripes run¬ 
ning across. A similar box pleat applied 
on the waist went down each side of the 
vestee and formed the collar. The sleeves 
were long and flowing, a style very much 
in vogue this season. The lower part of 
the sleeve was formed by a deep cuff of 
white organdie, joined to form a continu¬ 
ation of the sleeve. This had a baud of 
Irish crochet insertion let in. the lower 
edge of the cuff being turned back. There' 
was no trimming on the edge. The 
vestee was of white organdie, with an in¬ 
sertion of Irish crochet at both top and 
bottom. This style of vestee. falling like 
an apron below the belt, is extremely 
popular, and is seen in all sorts of mate¬ 
rials. Often there is a collar attached, 
and the vestee is worn with separate 
dresses, or with a jacket, suit. Handsome 
brocades, silk, jersey cloth, linen and or¬ 
gandie are used for these vestees. those 
of organdie often being elaborately tucked 
and frilled. The dress figured has a 
folded girdle of white organdie, tied in 
the back. 
Striped Taffeta. —The little dress in 
the center is a striped taffeta in two 
shades of blue, the whole effect being dark. 
It was very plain, and had a rather demure 
old-fashioned look. The two-piece skirt 
was caught in a little at the bottom of the 
side seams by five ball buttons, thus giving 
the narrow outline at the hem. Around 
the hips was a broad band of the material, 
flaring slightly, so that it gave a tunic 
effect. The plain waist had rather loose 
sleeves, the only trimming being a round 
fichu and turn-back cuffs of white or¬ 
gandie. Cuffs and 
fichu were edged 
w ith folded points 
of the organdie, 
just like the trim¬ 
ming many women 
use on white 
aprons. Over the 
folded girdle of 
silk was a tie of 
narrow double- 
faced ribbon,dark 
blue on one side 
and Victory red 
on the reverse; 
this was passed 
twice around the 
waist and then 
tied in front, with 
long loops and 
ends. The loops 
were brought up 
to the point of 
the fichu. This 
is a modest little 
dress, suitable for 
any age, and 
would be attrac¬ 
tive and inexpen¬ 
sive in voile, 
either solid color 
or figured. Any 
plain skirt and 
waist pattern 
could be used for 
it. The hat worn 
with it is smooth 
black straw faced with pale blue Geor¬ 
gette; the trimming is a mixed wreath 
of fruit and flowers, with a fold of blue 
maline around the top. 
Juvenile Dotted Swiss. —The little 
girl at the right wears a little frock of 
white dotted swiss; there is nothing 
novel in the pattern, but the style of 
making is very attractive. The white 
Swiss is combined with pink organdie, 
two bands of the organdie being set in 
the skirt. Sash, cuffs and banding around 
the square neck are also of the organdie. 
At the left, the skirt has. between the 
two bands of pink, a little cluster of 
fruit and foliage, embroidered on the 
swiss, a similar cluster being embroidered 
on the front of the waist, at the right 
s de. This dress was worn over a pink 
slip, a fashion that has now returned to 
us. Many white 
frocks for big and 
little girls, of or¬ 
gandie, swiss 
chiffon or Geor¬ 
gette. are worn 
over a colored 
slip, pink, nile 
green and orchid 
being favorite 
colors. 
Spring 
Blouses. — Many 
new waists have 
a round chemise 
neck, or are made 
in peasant style. 
T h e collar less 
round neck is fav¬ 
ored both iu thin 
wash goods and 
in Georgette or 
chiffon. Peasant 
blouses in hand¬ 
kerchief linen, 
both white and 
pastel colors, are 
often trimmed 
with colored 
peasant e m- 
broidery. Loose 
open sleeves, 
wrist-length, are 
often seen, but 
there are many 
three-quarter, el¬ 
bow and even 
shorter sleeves. A plain little chemise 
blouse of pale blue dotted swiss, gathered 
in back and front, was very , simple with 
its plain roll collar; it cost $15. White 
crepe embroidered in blue and rose was 
$30. Of course there are plenty of mod¬ 
erate-priced wash waists, though the 
standard waist at $1 that careful pur¬ 
chasers used to buy no longer exists. 
Plain tailored waists of madras are $2 
to $5 ; voile and organdie about the same. 
Smocks are still in favor for sport and 
country wear, and are especially desir¬ 
able for young girls at the angular coltish 
stage of growth. The materials used are 
Japanese crepe, madras, poplin, linen and 
sheer voile. Hand embroidery iu peasant 
style is often employed as trimming, also 
smocking iu colors. 
Dress Accessories. —Irish crochet is 
“in"’ again, and is used quite freely on 
both dresses and blouses. A simple 
chemise blouse of voile or organdie may 
be attractively trimmed with Irish crochet 
by the home dressmaker at moderate cost, 
while such a blouse would be decidedly 
expensive ready made. 
Ostrich feathers are very much used ; 
not only in millinery, but as dress trim¬ 
mings. Fringes of ostrich feathers are 
used to edge flounces, and to trim waists. 
Blue serge capes are as prevalent as 
Service uniforms, and are worn by all 
ages. Some of the newer ones are pic¬ 
turesque cloaks gathered on a shallow 
yoke, with collars that stand high at the 
back. 
A pretty style for young girls is a box- 
pleated skirt of English print with a 
plain little shirtwaist of white batiste, 
the waist trimmed with pleatings stitched 
in color to match the skirt, finished with 
a patent leather belt. Such a dress was 
offered at a good shop for $16.50, and 
offers a useful suggestion for the home 
dressmaker. 
Spring Fabrics. —Ginghams in checks, 
stripes and plaids are 35c to $1.50 a 
yard. Tissues in sheer effects with 
heavier stripes are 60c to $1.75; they 
come in lovely combinations, dotted, 
cross-barred, and with satin stripes. 
Voiles vary from 25c to $1.50 a yard; 
some charming checks and foulard de- 
signs_are 50c to $1. Handkerchief linens 
at 85c to $2. and organdies at 05c to 
$1.25. come in white and pastel shades, 
and are very desirable for blouses or 
dresses. Navy blue organdie makes very 
attractive dresses. 
Growing Sage for Market 
Is there any market for ordinary gar¬ 
den sage? How should it be prepared for 
market? We have a long growing season 
in this section and sage grows vigorously. 
It would appear that if a sufficient de¬ 
mand exists to justify, it could be suc¬ 
cessfully grown iu large quantities. 
Dallas, Tex. p. b. b. 
There is a regular market for sage, 
which is usually grown by truckers as a 
second crop. The young plants are raised 
in nursery beds, and transplanted in late 
May or early June, when the first sow¬ 
ings of Summer vegetables are taken off. 
The sage seedlings are set six or eight 
inches apart, and given clean cultivation 
until the sage grows too much for this 
to continue. About late August alter¬ 
nate plants are cut. bunched and sold, the 
alternating plants being cut about a 
month later. Cutting, in the North, may 
continue into November. If the plants 
are not thinned, the lower leaves turn 
yellow and drop off. entailing loss as a 
result of crowding. For drying the leaves 
are cut before flowers open, and carefully 
dried in the shade. For commercial use, 
or, indeed, in the home garden, an im¬ 
proved sage should be planted. Holt’s 
Mammoth being a standard sort; the 
leaves are so much larger than the orig¬ 
inal type that it is far more profitable. 
Sage does not bring high prices, its profit 
coming from an intensive system of grow¬ 
ing which makes it fit in with other crops. 
As it is quite as useful dry as in the 
fresh state, the Northern season is pro¬ 
longed in this way, and many house¬ 
keepers prefer it dry. as being convenient. 
It would be wise, therefore, to try it in a 
small way first, not as a main crop, but 
following some of the early truck crops 
that are now being extensively grown in 
Texas. It is quite possible that section 
will offer possibilities for a large variety 
of culinary and medicinal herbs. Fresh 
sage is tied iu bunches for market, the 
dried leaves being pressed into small 
packets by dealers in botanic drugs, who 
purchase the dried herb by the pound 
from the growers. 
“Monet is circulating very fast.” re¬ 
marked the economist. “Yes.’’ replied the 
ordinary person ; “by the time a dollar 
bill gets around to me it is so tired it 
can’t do anything like the work it used 
to."—Washington Star. 
FUPGITUPE POLISH 
A varnish food, made by varnish mak¬ 
ers, for keeping varnished surfaces per¬ 
manently bright. Removes white spots, 
blue bloom and surface scratches. Contains no 
grease, acids or grit. Will not collect dust nor 
soil clothing. 
VISIT YOUR NEAREST 
CHI-NAMEL STORE 
where you will find Chi-Namcl quality-finishes 
for everything in the home—for new or old, hard 
or soft woodwork, floors, doors, furniture, radia¬ 
tors, picture frames, bric-a-brac, etc. 
THE OHIO VARNISH CO., CLEVELAND, O. 
Make Money-Live Better 
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m „ because it operates by steam under 
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A National Aluminum Cook¬ 
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rooster tender as the most ex¬ 
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cannlr Booklet "A” gives full partic¬ 
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815 Spring St., Eau Claire, Wis. 
ALUMINUM 
COOKER 
FAMOUS HOTEL BLEND 
DIFFERENT FROM ORDINARY COFFEES 
c. 
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lb. 
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Established 79 Years 
THIS IS REAL CHARITY 
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OUT BUREAU 
NEW YORK 
PLACING 
417 Broome Street 
Standard Fruit Books 
American Fruit Culturist. Thomas.... 2.60 
Citrus Fruits. Hume. 2.60 
California Fruits. Wickson. 3.00 
Plums and Plum Culture. Waugh. 1.60 
Fruit Ranching in British Columbia. 
Bealby . 1.60 
Farm and Garden Rule Book . 2.00 
Live Stock —- Poultry 
Types and Breeds of Farm Animals. 
Plumb .$2.00 
Poultry Feeding and Management. 
Dryden .A. 1.60 
Swine in America. Coburn. 2.60 
Diseases of Animals. Mayo. 1.76 
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of 98^ctual 
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