The RURAL NEW.YORKER 
1247 
Models 
Fall Possibilities. —The present 
styles in New York show the narrow 
skirt of moderate length slightly fuller at 
hips than at the ankle, often too narrow 
to walk in, though freedom is given by a 
slash in the center of the back. Put 
French styles are, for once, entirely dif¬ 
ferent from American : in Paris skirts are 
very short and full, quite as short as during 
our extreme period two years ago. and so 
full that some of them give almost a 
crinoline effect. Sleeves are short, and 
necks low, but this is true here as well 
as abroad. One often sees on New York 
streets dresses that would have been con¬ 
sidered quite low enough in the neck for 
evening wear, a few years ago. Every 
indication points, now, to the return of 
the full shorter skirt, to the use o c frills 
and paniers, and to a smaller curved-in 
waist line, instead 
'>i the long 
waist of the 
ent mode. 
White Jersey 
C L o T h . — The 
young gii-l’s dress 
shown at the left 
in the first pic¬ 
ture is a one-piece 
chemise model of 
white jersey cloth. 
It is cut all in 
one. as plainly as 
an old-style gab- 
rielle. It is a 
Slip-on, fastening 
under the arm. 
there being, no 
shoulder -sea m 
opening, as r the 
neck is la'r'jre 
enough to slip the 
head through. The 
sleeves are at¬ 
tached to the lin¬ 
ing. the armholes 
being faced. A 
royv of buttons 
about the size'‘‘of 
a quarter, covered 
with the jersey 
cloth, extended all 
the way down 
each side" seam, 
from the armhole 
to the hem. The dress was trimmed with 
pale blue and white embroidery, narrow 
bands of the embroidery going over the 
shoulders, and coming down below the 
waist line, where a broader baud edged 
the panel effect deeper in front, than in 
back. The embroidery .was quite heavily- 
worked in a bold design. A plain belt of 
the material, rather loose, defined the long 
waist line. Au opening in the center of 
the neck in front, about six inches deep, 
gave more room for slipping on; this 
opening was laced upnvith a blue woolen 
crocheted cord, finished by little tassels. 
Unbleached Crash.- —The young girl’s 
dress shown at the right was unbleached 
linen crash, and was extremely plain, 
buttoning all the way down the back. The 
bottom of the skirt was cut in shallow 
scallops, faced up; the elbow sleeves were 
trimmed with _ a flaring scalloped cuff. 
Around the hip was a band of crash, 
standing up, the top free so that it stood 
out a little, this 
baud being cov¬ 
ered with darn¬ 
ing stitches in 
old blue. There 
was a band of 
darning around 
the round neck, 
and there was a 
narrow girdle, 
looped over with 
falling ends at 
the back. This 
girdle was also 
embroidered i n 
darning stitch. 
Both these/ 
dresses are very* m; 
simple, but excel- V 
lent in style, and 
very becoming to 
a n unformed 
yoim g. figure. 
They would be 
desirable models 
for serge or 
other woolen 
material, trim¬ 
med either with 
wool embroidery 
or with soutache 
braid. The scal¬ 
loped hem of 
the second frock 
is of course a 
matter of per¬ 
sonal taste; it 
was very attrac¬ 
tive in the crash, 
but au ordinary 
Three Blue 
almost a 
gowns in 
shape with mushroom brim edged with a 
fold of old blue maline. This is a very 
simple dress, but a desirable model for a 
young figure. 
Blue Serge. —In the center is a model 
we see in both serge and taffeta; as shown 
it is dark blue serge, trimmed with black 
soutache braid and small steel buttons. 
The narrow skirt has at the hips an up¬ 
standing band of the silk, flaring out to¬ 
ward the top, which is covered with rows 
of the braid. A vest extends down the 
front of the waist to this band, this vest 
being covered with rows of soutache, and 
trimmed down each side with rows of but¬ 
tons. The bell sleeves, three-quarter 
length, had cuffs covered with rows of 
soutache, and there was a girdle of fancy- 
woven black silk braid. The band around 
flic hips shows the popular panier effect. 
Blue Taffeta. 
—The ever-popu- 
lar blue taffeta is 
shown at the right 
with panier 
flounces. This 
gown had a panel 
formed of a shal¬ 
low box pleat 
down both front 
and back, while 
the sides had two 
flounces, giving a 
panier effect. A 
narrow r i b b o n 
girdle passes 
twice around the 
waist. This is a 
good niodeV fm- a 
woman who ; is 
rather long from 
the waist down, 
for while the cen¬ 
tral^ panel length- 
ens'a short-waist- 
ed effect, the 
flounces break the 
extra length be¬ 
low. This dress 
had no other 
trimming, but a 
very smart neck¬ 
lace of red and 
silver was worn 
with it.- 
Overblouses or 
would like to see some nice 
jumpers to be worn over 
blouses, something that 
much and would look nice 
shirtwaist. There are 
oung 
Three Simple Autumn Models 
hem might be nreferred. 
Gowns. —Dark blue is 
uniform now. and the three 
the second picture are all of 
fhis dolor. At the left is a blue and black 
figured voile, very simple but attractive. 
It is buttoned all the way down the back 
from neck to hem with small black satin 
buttons. Around the hips is a bias fold 
stitched along its lower edge, so that it 
stands up; a similar fold goes around the 
waist just under the arms. The fullness 
of the waist is bloused over the belt all 
around; there is a narrow black satin 
girdle, with a flat pump bow at the front. 
The hat is a plain black velvet sailor 
Jumpers.—I 
patterns for 
shirtwaists or 
would not cost 
over -an good old _ 
a great many who need something of the 
sort; they have the waists in their way. 
while if they only knew how thev could 
have many a nice suit at little expense, 
and it would not be hard to make, nor 
take much time. sirs. w. a. f. 
For this use. sports coats or slip-on 
blouses, made without sleeves, are often 
used; they are more trim in outline than 
the jumper of a few years back. What 
are called “chemise dresses” are also used 
in this way. The plain dress is made 
without sleeves, with round, square or 
A* neck, and is put on over a waist. In 
our issue of .Tune 14. page 970. are three 
patterns that may be used in this way. 
They are shown with sleeves in the pic¬ 
tures, but the sleeve are omitted and the 
armholes suffi¬ 
ciently enlarged 
for comfort 
when worn over 
a blouse. 
The patterns 
referred to are 
chemise dress 
9783. slip - on 
blouse 978.8, and 
sports coat 9804. 
Another pattern 
which may be 
used in the 
same way is the 
kimono blouse 
with over-bodice 
9(»<»8, shown in 
issue of Feb. 8. 
page 230. This 
is an attractive 
panel effect. 
Other waists, to 
be shown in the 
future, may be 
used in the same 
way. The slip-on 
blouse 9788 is 
especially suited 
to this use. In 
present models 
the slip-on 
blouse should be 
made with a 
peplum extend¬ 
ing over the 
skirt; the old 
style jumper 
that was tucked 
any other waist is 
with peplum is 
of colored linen 
wash skirt. 
skirt 
The 
like 
slip-on 
and made 
over a white 
inside the 
obsolete, 
very practical, 
is very pretty 
The sleeveless sports coats, made of the 
same material as the skirt, are often worn 
over a thin Georgette waist. This style 
is favored in the more dressy sports suits 
of satin or fancy silk. On, uist be care¬ 
ful not to give a patchy effo, by wearing- 
skirt. waist anil overblouse mat are not 
distantly related. A sleeveless sports coat 
of solid color may be worn over a white 
blouse, with a skirt of harmonizing tone 
in stripes, check or plaid with good effect, 
(Continued on page 1255) 
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