1344 
The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
September 13, 1910 
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IJticautSca! A IsoManuf acturer* 
uticautica of Superior 
trnr AHTirA. Warm A ir Furn- 
UTICAUTICA* aces and' ' Imperial" 
imrAirrirA- Steam and Hot 
uticautica Water Boilers. 
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With 
Moist 
W arm 
Air 
There's health and happiness in homes where every room 
is,fiooded with warm, moist, fresh air. It is the ideal heat¬ 
ing physicians recommend — the kind being put in better 
class houses. 
NEW-IDEA 
Pipeless Furnace 
“The One You've Heard So Much About'* 
You can install a New Idea in a day, for you make no 
alterations in your house, put up no network of pipes. 
Costs Very Little 
A New Idea costs little more than a good stove, but does 
the work of several, burning hard or soft coal, wood or gas, 
and less than you’ve burned before. 
Every New-Idea Pipeless Furnace is sold under a positive 
and absolutely binding written guarantee. 
You should install a New Idea before cold weather catches 
you. At least send at once for all the facts about this 
ideal heating. Don't confuse the New Idea with other 
pipeless furnaces. The frameless feed door construction 
alone puts the New Idea in a class by itself—no dust 
•—no gas—no ashes! There are New Idea dealers in all 
sections—one in your neighborhood. Write us and we’ll 
send you his name. You can get your New Idea promptly. 
UTICA HEATER COMPANY Box SO, Utica, N. Y. 
Excellent proposi¬ 
tion for the right 
kind of agents. 
These features 
make New 
Idea Heating 
ideal: 
Frameless feed door 
Smoke curtain 
Non-clxnker grate 
Hot blast feed door 
Gas and dust-tight. 
radiator 
Two-piece fire pot 
Large water pan 
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SAVE HALF Your 
Paint Bills 
BY USING Ingersoll Paint. 
PROVED BEST by 77 years’ use. It 
will please you. The ONLY PAINT en¬ 
dorsed by the “GRANGE” for 45 years. 
Made in all colors—for all purposes. 
Get my FREE DELIVERY offer. 
Prom Factory Direct to You at Wholesale Price*. 
INGERSOLL PAINT BOOK—FREE 
Tells oil about Paint and Painting *or Durability. Valu¬ 
able information FREE TO YOU with Sample Cards. 
Write me. DO IT NOW. 1 WILL SAVE YOU MONEY. 
Oldest Ready Mixed Faint House in America—Estab. 1842. 
Q. W. Ingersoll, 246 Plymouth St., Brooklyn, N .Y. 
Only $4.39 
ON ARRIVAL 
POSTAGE FREE 
Black Dress Shoe 
Save profits. Buy Direct 
from Factory Headquarters. 
• ■ --- n| 
Boston Mail Order House, Dept. T434, Boston. Mass. 
Bend shoes ou approval. My money back If I want it. I risk nothing 
Name .Size. 
Address. 
Special sale of 
Remnants 
The quality of these remnants is same as 
first grade roofing and contains same amount 
of roofing. 1(JS sq. ft. with all fixtures. 
Our supply of remnants never equals de¬ 
mand, so place your order now. We guarantee 
satisfaction or return your money. 
1- ply Remnants 89c per roll (Just liko 
SI.50 regular grade) 
2- ply Remnants $1.05 per roll (Just like 
&3.00 regular grade) 
Also extra special bargain in Rea and Green 
slate surfaced remnants at S1.75. This just 
like first grade which sells for $3.00 per square 
except that slate eurfaoo is not put on as 
smoothly. 
Also our first grade roofings at 20% less. 
Send for price list and samples today. 
Manufacturers Outlet Dept. 
BUFFALO HOUSEWRECKING & SALVAGE CO. 
614 Walden Avenue, Buffalo, N. Y. 
Transplanting Evergreens 
Last Spring there was a question in re¬ 
gard to transplanting evergreen trees, but 
referring especially to the cedars. If the 
trees are growing in a rich, moist loca¬ 
tion, the root system will usually bo 
small and compact, and there will seldom 
he any difficulty in successfully trans¬ 
planting trees of moderate size. The main 
points to be observed are to take up as 
much of the root system as possible and 
to so do the work that neither the sun 
nor the wind shall touch the naked roots, 
lake other trees, the evergreens absorb 
their food through root-hairs, which are lo¬ 
cated near the ends of the feeding roots. In 
transplanting a tree many of these feeding 
roots are necessarily broken, thus remov¬ 
ing the organs through which the tree 
takes its food. Most of the deciduous 
trees readily develop new feeders from the 
sap stored in the tree, hut the evergreens 
are slow to do so. More than this, the 
sap, which, in deciduous trees, is a liquid 
as thin as water, is of a pitchy nature in 
the evergreens, and hardens to a thick 
gum when the roots are exposed to any 
drying influence. Hence the need of care 
in both of these particulars becomes ap¬ 
parent. Contrary to the opinion usually 
expressed, I have found that the best time 
to transplant evergreens is at the earliest 
possible date in the Spring. The ground 
is then in the most favorable condition 
to receive them, and, if other conditions 
are favorable, and the trees not too large, 
they can he depended upon to live and 
grow. Evergreen trees make the most 
of their terminal growth during June and 
July, and, during this period, it is not a 
favorable time to attempt anything in the 
line of transplanting. Also, they should 
have fully three weeks after transplanting 
in which to become established before the 
terminal growth begins. If Fall trans¬ 
planting is practised, the trees should be 
moved immediately after the terminal 
growth has ceased. This is usually by 
the middle of August. 
It is seldom possible to transplant an 
evergreen successfully from a dry and 
sterile pasture, where the finest speci¬ 
mens are found, without previous prepa¬ 
ration. This is because the roots travel 
so far in search of water and nourish¬ 
ment that it is impossible to take up any 
considerable number of the feeders. I 
have often traced the roots of evergreens 
in such locations six feet in height, for 
a distance of 20 feet before reaching any 
considerable number of the feeding roots 
and, without these, a successful trans¬ 
planting is out of the question. When 
it is thought worth while to move a tree 
of considerable size, and so located, a 
ditch two feet wide and of similar depth, 
if possible, on account of the ledge below, 
should he dug around the tree as early in 
the Spring as possible. The ditch should 
be immediately filled with a rich loam, 
well tramped down. Then the tree should 
be allowed to stand for two seasons. Dur¬ 
ing this time, unless its vitality has been 
so lowered by the operation that it will 
never be of value as an ornamental, it 
will not only recover, but it will develop 
new feeders in-the loam of the ditch, and 
which will ‘be in a compact mass close to 
the tree. Then, some time during the 
Fall, dig around the tree and just out¬ 
side the ditch. Allow the ground to 
freeze solidly to the bottom of the ditch, 
and then with a long lever pry the tree 
loose with the ball of frozen earth at¬ 
tached, load it upon a sled or stoneboat, 
draw it to the desired location, and plant 
it in a hole previously prepared. It thus 
becomes largely a question of power and 
engineering. c. o. oumsbee. 
0 
When you write advertisers mention The R. N.-Y. and you'll get a 
quick reply and a “square deal." See guarantee editorial page. 
Hastening Ripening of Grapes 
My grapevines are loaded with grapes, 
hut there is such a rank growth of leaves 
and new vines that T am wondering if 
clipping leaves and ends of vines will help 
fruit to ripen. Can you tell me? 
Ouaquaga, N. Y. w. F. L. 
As the leaf of the vine is vitally con¬ 
cerned with the ripening of the fruit it is 
impractical, except. inMic event of greatly 
excessive foliage, to remove the leaves for 
the purpose of favoring ripening. The 
vineyardist considers himself fortunate if 
he have a large leal area, especially so 
when a heavy crop is borne. Usually a 
light growth is correl; ted with a heavy 
crop, and vice versa, much foliage with a. 
small crop. The writer lias seen many 
failures of certain varieties to color nor¬ 
mally because some or a large part of the 
foliage dropped prematurely. In this 
instance I should strongly advise against 
the removal of leaves. The ripening may 
be retarded somewhat through the dense 
shading, yet in the end it will come. On 
the other hand, the vines may be so over¬ 
loaded with fruit that the root is incapa¬ 
ble of sustaining the strain, so that ma¬ 
turity is impossible under any conditions. 
In this event the removal oi: the foliage 
would prove more disastrous than ever. 
F. E. GLADWIN. 
Horseradish Culture 
Will you give cultural methods for 
horseradish, best variety, time and man¬ 
ner of planting, fertilizing and storing? 
Martinsville, N. J. c. E. n. 
This crop is grown from sets made from 
roots too small for market. They are 
usually made in lengths of four to six 
inches from roots one-fourth to one-half 
inch in diameter, the top end being cut 
square or straight across, and the bottom 
end slanting, so that when planting it is 
easy to see at a glance or to tell by the 
touch which is the top or bottom end and 
avoid putting them in the ground top end 
down. The sets are usually tied in bun¬ 
dles of 50 or so, and stored away in boxes 
of damp sand in a cool cellar, care being 
taken to put enough sand between the 
bundles and each layer of bundles to pre¬ 
vent heating. 
Large market gardeners cultivate horse¬ 
radish as a second crop, being usually 
planted with early beets or cabbage. The 
ground thus planted is usually lined out 
in rows 12 to 15 in. apart. Every other 
row is planted to cabbage or sown to early 
beets. After this operation is completed 
the horseradish is planted between the 
rows of cabbage, etc., at about 16 in. apart 
in the row. The planting of the roots is 
usually, done about the first of May. An 
acre will hold 10.000 to 12.000 'plants. 
r i lie planting is done by making a hole 
S to 10 in. deep with a light iron bar or 
long sharp planting stick, into which this 
set is dropped, top end up, the top being 
about three inches under ground, pressing 
the earth down around the set with the 
feet. The principal reason for planting 
the set so far under the surface of the 
ground is to delay its coming up until the 
other crop has been cleared off and mar¬ 
keted. The horseradish makes its great¬ 
est growth in the Fall, so it will he no in 
jury to it to prevent it from making top 
until July. This crop requires very little 
cultivation. After the eabbage or other 
crop has been gathered, the horseradish is 
allowed to grow at will, and about all the 
cultivation it requires is one good deen 
stirring of the soil between the rows with 
the horse cultivator. This will kill out 
the weeds present at that time, and the 
tops of the horseradish will usually cover 
the ground pretty well before the’ others 
can get much start, and smother them out 
As the plant is very hardy it is allowed 
to remain in the ground ns late as pos¬ 
sible in the Fall, and is usually not dug 
until the approach of freezing weather, or 
along about December. 
When the plants are dug it is best to 
break the small roots off before storing the 
major roots for the Winter. These small 
roots, from which sets are to he made, are 
usually stowed away in boxes, and are 
trimmed to proper length at leisure, the 
large roots are put away in pits, to pre¬ 
serve them until wanted for market, and 
are best stored in the following manner: 
The ground should be naturally well 
drained, so that no water will lie around 
the roots, or if not naturally so, then pro¬ 
vision must bo made for drainage by use 
of tile below the bottom of the pit. The 
pit should be dug out about three feet 
deep, and five to six feet wide, and as 
long as may be required. The roots are 
then put in, in sections 20 to 20 inches 
wide across the pit, and up to the height 
of the ground level. Retween the sections 
a space of six to eight inches should he 
left, which is filled with soil up to the top, 
and so on until the entire pit is filled ; by 
this plan one or more sections can be 
taken out at a time without in the least 
disturbing the others. If weather should 
he mild at time of storing the roots should 
he covered with soil only lightly at first, 
adding more soil as weather grows cooler, 
and when finished there should be 18 to 20 
inches of soil covering the roots, and 
rounded on top so as to shed the water 
from Winter rains and melting snows. If 
a goodly covering of leaves or straw is 
put over the top of the pit the roots will 
be easy of access at any time of Winter. 
The best variety is Maliner Krcn or 
Bohemia. Some nurserymen claim there 
is comparatively no difference between the 
Bohemia and the common variety, but 
there is no doubt about the superiority of 
Bohemia; it makes a larger and heavier 
root, and therefore the yield per acre is 
much greater than the common sort. 
Deep rich soil is absolutely essential to 
the successful growing of horseradish, as 
large, marketable roots cannot be pro¬ 
duced in any other kind of soil. In tin* 
large market gardens that have been 
brought up to the highest state of fertility 
by annual applications of 40 to 50 tons 
of stable manure per acre, this crop has 
been made to pay a handsome profit. k. 
