1396 ‘Vte RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
Poultry and Livestock 
Making Sure of Young Turkeys 
►Some time ago I had a clipping sent me 
from The R. N.-Y. The clipping stated 
that an inquiry had been made regarding 
young turkeys suffering from leg weakness 
two weeks old. Now I have never known 
of young turkeys having leg weakness at 
that age. If the coop that those little tur¬ 
keys were housed in had a board bottom, 
the bottom of that coop must have been 
flat on the ground. A coop flat on the 
ground is nothing but a death trap for 
young turkeys. Raise up the coop and 
you will find that the bottom is all wet, 
and the ground is cold and moist. The 
dampness'comes right up through the floor 
and affects the little birds. It is the 
worst thing in the world to confine a tur¬ 
key hen in the coop and let the little tur¬ 
keys run out. In the first place, there is 
always considerable dampness where a 
turkey has been in the coop all day. Her 
droppings are tramped into the floor and 
the little birds have to be mothered on 
that floor at night. When the little birds 
run out alone they never go far from the 
coops. They go right around that coop, 
where they ought to have new ground 
every day. 
When your little turkeys are hatched 
out. place the mother in a good clean coop, 
with plenty of dry bedding. The first feed 
that you give them is hard-boiled egg. a 
shake of ginger, cut up sting nettle very 
fine, and if you have no sting nettle, cut 
up dandelion or lettuce. You can give 
them a little rolled oats. I strongly ap¬ 
prove of sour milk, but the little poults 
thrive better for the first three or four 
days on sweet milk. A good start is 
everything. Re sure to disinfect them for 
vermin. m 
I have runs 5 ft. each way and 28 in. 
high, with an opening the size of a door 
in the coop. I let the mother out after 
the little birds are four or five days old. 
Drive her gently into the run with the 
little poults. Put shade over one-half of 
the run and close up the entrance to the 
run well. I do that, every morning on fine 
days. I move the run every day on clean 
ground. After a few days the mother lieu 
knows what is required of her and she 
will go back and forth to the house with¬ 
out any trouble. If the house is raised, 
say 5 in. from the ground, you can put 
something under it near the door, so that 
the little birds will not run under the 
house when you go to drive them in at 
night. 
When the little poults are about four 
weeks old they are good and strong. I 
let them run with the mother, bringing 
them home every night and housing them 
before the dew is on. In this way you 
will raise good strong stock. 
Do not feed any cracked corn. Ground 
oats is very good for turkeys, with plenty 
of sour milk. You can give them a good 
mash in the morning after they are five 
weeks old. To 12 turkeys take one pint 
of cornmeal, one quart of mixed feed, 
about a tablespoonful of beef scraps, scald 
it well. You can cut up lettuce or any 
kind of good green food, mix in it, and on 
cold and wet mornings you can put a lit¬ 
tle ginger in it. Feed them this in the 
morning. If you cannot get turkey feed, 
give them ground oats, as stated before. 
A little baking soda in the drinking water 
occasionally is very good to help the di¬ 
gestion. Turkeys that are cared for in 
this way will have very little trouble of 
any kind. margabet maiiaxy. 
Massachusetts. 
Cross-bred Chicks; Red Mites 
1. Is there a name for the chickens 
that are crossed between a White Rock 
cockerel and White Leghorn hens? 2. 
What is the matter with my young 
chicks? They all run around one minute 
and the next minute they are droopy, and 
all of a sudden they die. I have lost 13 
out of 25 in the last two weeks. They 
are over a month old. 3. Is there a cure 
for red mites that are in a 180-chick 
hover? E. C. R. 
New York. 
1. There is no recognized or official 
name for the progeny of this particular 
cross, as they do not constitute a breed. 
A new breed known as Oregons, has been 
produced at the Agricultural Experiment 
Station in that State, the foundation of 
this being a cross between the Barred 
Plymouth Rock and the White Leghorn. 
It may be this breed that you have in 
mind. 
2. I cannot tell from your description 
what ails these young chicks; there are 
many causes of such deaths. 
3. Red mites are easily disposed of by 
an application of kerosene or any other 
oil or grease to the places where they 
congregate during the day. It is essential 
only that all their hiding places be 
reached. To prepare an old brooder for 
the reception of a new hatch of chicks 
recently, I first scrubbed it out thoroughly 
with the soapy water left after the Mon¬ 
day morning wash. It was then clean, 
but might still have harbored lice and 
mites in its cracks. After it had dried in 
the sun, I painted the entire interior with 
a mixture of engine oil and kerosene 
drained from the motor of my car when 
cleaning that. I could then guarantee 
that that flock of chicks, taken from a 
clean incubator, would have an opportu¬ 
nity to grow up free from vermin. These 
mites of which you speak, by the way, 
may be the cause of the deaths in your 
flock of young chicks. M. B. D. 
Liver Disease 
I usually keep about 100 liens, but 
some of them seem to get sleepy-looking; 
they stay on the roost for two or three 
days, aud then die. Upon examination 
I found in some the liver nearly black. 
What do you think is the cause of it? 
They have free range, get all the exer¬ 
cise they want. They are fed corn and 
wheat mixed, about half of each. How 
can this be overcome? What is the best 
disinfectant? I have built a new hen¬ 
house ; would you advise it to be disin¬ 
fected V J. R. 
Maryland. 
I know of no treatment for these fowls 
that die with greatly enlarged and soft¬ 
ened livers, since they exhibit no symp¬ 
toms until after the damage to their di¬ 
gestive organs is done, and it is then tool 
late to overcome it. Heavy feeding and 
confinement undoubtedly contribute to 
these disorders, and they are common in 
well-kept flocks. A new henhouse should 
not need disinfection, but a yearly appli¬ 
cation of a coat of whitewash to the in¬ 
terior is an excellent thing, and this 
should be supplemented by sufficiently 
frequent applications of kerosene or other 
mite-killing substances to the perches to 
keep these parasites in check. If not 
looked for and combated red mites will 
soon infest a new henhouse and be of 
serious injury to its occupants. M. B.n. 
Purebred, Thoroughbred and Scrub 
We have had some little argument about 
the use of the word “purebred.” Many 
people still say “thoroughbred” in refer¬ 
ring to well-bred cattle or poultry. The 
Department of Agriculture has now adopt¬ 
ed the following definitions: 
Purebred.—A purebred animal is one 
of pure breeding representing a definite, 
recognized breed and both of whose pa¬ 
rents were purebred animals of the same 
breed. To be considered purebred, live 
stock must be either registered, eligible to 
registration, or (in the absence of public 
registry for that class) have such lineage 
that its pure breeding can be definitely 
proved. To bo of good type and quality, 
the animal must be healthy, vigorous and 
a creditable specimen of its breed. 
September 20, 1910 
Thoroughbred.—The term “thorough¬ 
bred” applies accurately only to the breed 
of running horses eligible to registration 
in the General Stud Book of England, the 
American Stud Book, or affiliated stud 
books for thoroughbred horses in other 
countries. 
Standardbred.—Applied to horses, this 
term refers to a distinct breed of Ameri¬ 
can light horses, which includes both trot¬ 
ters and pacers-which are eligible to reg¬ 
istration in the American Trotting Regis¬ 
ter. Applied to poultry, the term in¬ 
cludes all birds bred to conform to the 
standards of form, color, markings, weight, 
etc., for the various breeds under the 
standard of perfection of tin* American 
Poultry Association. 
Scrub.—A scrub is an animal of mixed 
or unknown breeding without definite type 
or markings. Such terms as native, mon¬ 
grel. razorback, dunghill, piney woods, 
cayuse, broncho and mustang are some¬ 
what synonymous with “scrub,” although 
many of the animals described by these 
terms have a certain fixity of type even 
though they present no evidence of sys¬ 
tematic improved breeding. 
Crossbred.—This term applies to the 
progeny of purebred parents of different 
breeds, but of the same species. 
Grade.—A grade is the offspring result¬ 
ing from mating a purebred with a scrub, 
or from mating animals not purebred, but 
•having close purebred ancestors. The off¬ 
spring of a purebred and a grade is also a 
grade, but through progressive improve¬ 
ment becomes a high grade. 
l 
•"•552 
Get Rid of Worms 
Always keep one compartment of your self-feeder supplied with Dr. Hess Stock Tonia, 
Make it half Tonic, half salt. Animal instinct will do the rest Mr. Hog will not only' 
help himself to this great worm destroyer, but— 
He’ll get a Tonic that will keep his appetite on edge and his digestion good. 
He’ll get a Laxative that will keep his bowels moving regularly. 
He’ll get a Diuretic that will help his kidneys throw off the poisonous waste material, 
'Remember that worms are not a hog’s only trouble—making a six-monthg market 
hog calls for a stuffing and cramming process v/ith corn, or its equivalent. You are 
laying on fat faster than nature ever intended. Let your hog’s system clog and your 
hog is in trouble; if there is any disease in the neighborhood, your hog gets it. 
Dr.Hessi 
F*ut It In the Self-Feeder 
Acre’s the remedy — Always keep Dr. Hess Stock Tonic before your hogs in the 
self-feeder; or add it to the swill, or the drinking water—any way, just so they get it. 
Here are yonr resells —You have a herd with good appetite—you have a herd 
free from worms—you have a healthy herd. Their systems are. free from 
poison, free from fever, because the bowels and kidneys are active. They 
throw off and carry off the poisonous waste material. 
Dr. Hess Stock Tonic is good alike for cattle, horses, 
hogs and sheep. It makes the ailing animals healthy, 
the whole herdthrifty. It expels worms. Now, listen, 
lo this: You buy Dr. Hess Stock Tonic according to the 
size of your herd—2 pounds for each average nog to 
start with. Add it to your self-feeder, or the swill, or 
the drinking water. You’ll see the good results, or the 
dealer will refund your money. Always guaranteed. 
Why Pay the Peddler Twice My Price? 
25-lb. Pall, $2.25 ; 100-lb. Dram, $7.50 
Except in the far West, South and Canada. 
Smaller packages in proportion. 
DR. HESS & CLARK, Ashland, Ohio 
