1470 
The RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
October 4, 1919 
The Cow and Her Care 
Poor Texture of Butter 
I have just recently moved to the coun¬ 
try, consequently am inexperienced, and 
would like to be informed as to the proper 
way of making butter. I do not think 
I have been handling it properly after it 
leaves the churn, as it does not seem the 
proper texture nor color. Will you give 
me full directions, or tell me where I may 
obtain them? MRS. c. s. 
Connecticut. 
Write to the Storrs Experiment Sta¬ 
tion, Storrs, Connecticut, and ask. for 
Bulletin 65, on “Farm Butter-making.” 
I could not tell from your letter just 
where your trouble is, but should judge 
from the fact that you state your butter 
does not seem to be of the proper texture 
or color that you might be churning at 
a little too high a temperature, thereby 
getting your butter to come quickly and 
in a soft condition, probably churned up 
butter, and in large lumps, so that it 
would be quite impossible to wash the 
buttermilk out. 
Cream to churn should be at a tem¬ 
perature of about 50 to CO degrees, so 
that the butter will be quite firm when it 
comes, and stop churning when it is in a 
granular form. Then wash in water that 
is the same teinperatu re as was the cream 
at time of churning, and wash the butter 
twice, giving the churn two or three revo¬ 
lutions in each wash water. The butter 
should then be in condition to. salt and 
work, anl if the salt is evenly distributed 
the color of the butter should be even. 
H. F. J. 
Butter Making Troubles 
I am a beginner on a farm, and I am 
unable to make good butter. We have 
only one cow, consequently not much 
cream. How long ought I to save 
the cream before churning? At the 
present time I churn about every four 
days. Is that often enough? We have 
no ice, and the cream sours very quickly ; 
when I wait to churn until I have enough 
cream to bother with, it seems too sour 
to use. I have read about the cream 
being left to ripen. What is this ripen¬ 
ing process? I don’t understand. When 
I churn the butter always comes in a 
heavy, sticky mass, too mussy to be 
worked into good butter. Is sweet cream 
better for good butter, or ought it to be 
sour, and if sour how can I know when 
it is just right? We have a very small 
can separator and thought perhaps the 
trouble was in the separator, so I am 
buying a new separator, the kind that 
separates the cream and milk immediate¬ 
ly. What is your opinion of this? We 
also use a dash churn. Do you advise 
this kind, or is there another kind you 
think better? . C. G. 
New York. 
Cream should ordinarily be churned 
at least twice a week in Summer and 
once a week in Winter. Every four days 
should do all right in your case where you 
have such a small amount of cream. 
When cream is ready for churning it 
should have just a mild sour taste. The 
best way to develop this flavor is to cool 
each batch of cream separately before 
mixing them together, and keep cream 
cold until the night before churning. The 
cream is then warmed to room tem¬ 
perature and held at that temperature 
until the sour taste develops. It is then 
cooled and held cold until churned. The 
above is known as the ripening process. 
When you get your separator, cool each 
batch of cream in water and keep in water 
until churning time. Until the weather 
gets cooler your cream will doubtless be 
ripe enough after four days in the water 
without warming it to riper With ice, 
of course it is easy to keep it absolutely 
sweet. Sweet cream churns w :h diffi¬ 
culty and considerable fat in. the cream 
is lost in the buttermilk. It is therefore 
unwise to churn raw .sweet cream. 
I note your butter is soft when it 
comes. This would indicate that you 
have your churning temperature too high, 
or that you are not cooling the cream 
thoroughly to the churning temperature. 
You should churn at least as low as 56 
degrees at this time of year, and it should 
take 20 to 40 minutes to churn, possibly 
a little quicker than this with a dasher 
chum. A small barrel churn is more de¬ 
sirable to use than the dasher churn, as 
the butter comes in a granular form, and 
can be more thoroughly washed than in 
the case of the dasher churn, where the 
butter comes in large lumps. Take care 
to have the wash water at about the same 
temperature as that used for churning. 
H. L. j. 
Seeding Grass; Hay and Grain Rations 
1. I have a piece of land run out, which 
I wish to seed for hay. What mixture 
would be best to use and how would you 
go about it? 2. How long do you think 
a cow giving 12 qts. should keep in milk? 
She was fresh in June. I am feeding a 
mixture of cottonseed meal, bran, gluten, 
oilmeal, 6 lbs. per day., and all the hay 
she will eat three times a day. 3. How 
much hay shall I need for a light horse 
and two cows? I have no pasture. 
New Hampshire. F. d. 
1. There are a number of possibilities 
in getting land into grass. Probably 
three of the best ones are: First, you 
could plant the land and seed it down 
immediately, using a mixture of about 
4*4 lbs. of Timothy, 5 lbs. of Red-top and 
about 5 lbs. of Red clover per acre. It is 
really a little late for this work, but could 
be done if done immediately. Secondly, 
you could plow the land and sow it most 
any time with 1% bu. of Winter rye per 
acre plus grass mixture above. The rye 
would be harvested in June next year 
and if the season was wet you would get 
a good second group of clover, and left 
standing, the following year a mixture of 
Timothy and Red-top. Thirdly, you could 
plow your land preferably this Fall or 
early Spring. Sow the land with about 
2 bu. of oats to the acre with the grass 
mixture mentioned above. The oats 
should be harvested the last of July or 
the first of August, and a good second 
crop would come on if the season was 
reasonably wet. 
2. I should say that your cow is doing 
quite well for a family cow if she is 
giving 12 qts., having freshened the last 
of June. The grain mixture which you 
are feeding is very satisfactory indeed. 
3. Figuring IS lbs. of hay per cow per 
day throughout the year you would need 
about 16% tons of hay for your two cows, 
and figuring 15 lbs. per day for your horse 
you would need about 2% tons for the 
horse. H. F. J. 
Bloody Milk 
I have a cow that sometimes gives blood 
at the end of milking from one teat. Could 
you give me light as to what might be 
the fault? E. S. 
New York. 
Growths in the teat probably bleed at 
milking time; but blood in such cases 
may also be due to chronic garget (mam- 
mitis) of the affected quarter. If growths 
are present and cannot be removed by 
operation we should advise you to dry 
off the secretion of mil' in that quarter. 
Medicinal treatment rarely does any good 
when growths cause the bleeding or when 
it proceeds from a chronic disease of the 
quarter, but it helps when bleeding is due 
to simple congestion and rupture of tiny 
blood vessels in the udder. That con¬ 
dition is commonly seen just after calv¬ 
ing, especially in heifers with their first 
calf. It consists in bathing with cold 
water and vinegar and giving sulphate of 
iron in feed or sulphate acid in the drink¬ 
ing water. A. S. A. 
Cowpox 
I have a cow which has pimples on all 
of her teats; another cow which is start¬ 
ing to get them. I put on a little lard, 
or sometimes vaseline, but it seems to me 
it does not help any. s. S. 
New Jersey. 
We suspect that the cow has been at¬ 
tacked with cowpox which has to run its 
course. A cow so affected should be iso¬ 
lated and milked last, or by one who does 
not attend to the other cattle. Twice 
daily immerse the teats for two or three 
minutes in hot water containing all the 
boric acid it will dissolve; then wipe dry 
and apply a three per cent solution of 
carbolic acid and glycerine, or of balsam 
of Peru and alcohol. If any sore is ob¬ 
stinate in healing apply strong iodine oint¬ 
ment twice daily. The disease is con¬ 
tagious and may be spread from cow to 
cow by the milker’s hands. A. s. a. 
Milk Fever 
1. Is it true that a fresh cow should 
never be milked dry? I have lately been 
told that the only reason my cows did 
not die of milk fever, when I milked them 
out so carefully from the very beginning, 
was that the cows were no good. “No 
(rood cow could stand such treatment.” 
I even milked a heifer three times before 
she freshened, because she was so ter¬ 
ribly uncomfortable. It seemed as though 
the udder would burst, it was so full. 
2. Is it safe and advisable to feed fallen 
apples to cows, when pasture is dry and 
other succulent food scarce? 3. Is apple 
pomace from a cider press good for cows? 
Apples, I am told, will dry cows up, or 
cause garget. 4. Is it true that the Hol¬ 
stein and Jersey breeds should never be 
crossed; that such a cross will never 
make good milch cows? I have a calf 
from a purebred Jersey cow and Holstein 
bull. The “one who knows” (or thinks 
he does) says it will not pay to raise it. 
What is your opinion? A. B. 
Illinois. 
1. Heavy milking cows are susceptible 
to milk fever after having had one or 
two calves. To prevent an attack the 
cow should not be milked out clean for 
several days after calving. It is best 
to let the calf suck for a few days and 
then milk by hand. The calf only takes 
a little milk now and then, and never 
takes all of the milk suddenly and at one 
time as is done when the cow is milked 
dry by hand. Poor milking cows rarely 
have milk fever. Milking a heifer or cow 
before calving does not tend to induce 
milk fever and is necessary when great 
congestion is present. It only is neces¬ 
sary, however, to remove a little of the 
milk, or serum, to relieve congestion. 
2. Apples often are fed, as a small part 
of the ration with other feed, and are 
useful in relaxing the bowels; but they 
should not suddenly be fed in large quan¬ 
tities, nor is it best to let a cow eat all 
she cares to take. 3. No. 4. A cross¬ 
bred cow often proves to be a good 
milker, but it is not well to make such 
crosses. A grade cow should be bred each 
time to a purebred bull of the breed of 
which she is a grade, if her heifer calves 
are to be raised. All bull calves should 
be “vealed.” If the heifer in question 
was from a good milking cow raise it by 
all means. A. S. A. 
Employer: “For this job you’ve got 
to know French and Spanish, and the 
pay is $18 a week.” “Lord, mister! I 
ain’t got no eddication ; I’m after a job 
in the yards.” “See the yard boss. We’ll 
start you in at forty.”—Life. 
The History of Unicorn 
E LEVEN years ago I became convinced there was an 
urgent need for a high grade dairy ration, made out 
of the purest materials, combined according to the practi¬ 
cal common-sense methods of successful breeders. 
This was the origin of Unicorn Dairy Ration. 
It was a success from the start. 
With no special effort, the owner of Lunde Korndyke (a 
New York cow), in 1910, made over 26,000 lbs. in one 
year—126 lbs. in one day. 
Since that time, Unicorn has fed over seven “lOOO-lb.-fat” 
official test cows, and hundreds of high test cows of ail 
breeds. 
Why is it the best breeders feed Unicorn, and why has it 
always made good? Simply because it is made to fit the 
cow and to produce results. 
Our knowledge is the result of thirty years of practical 
handling of feeds, and careful observation of feeding. 
We use the best materials that are made — no inferior 
substitutes—and above all,“try it on cows” before we sell 
it. This is how we keep on making it better. 
“Unicorn” cows make the biggest yields and the biggest 
profits. They keep well and in fine condition. 
You should learn all about Unicorn. Why not write us 
for information and books — free? 
yP LO • ^ 
Chapin & Co., Dept. R Chicago, Ill. 
